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Recently Richard Mille introduced to the world the RM UP-01, the world's thinnest mechanical watch at 1.75mm thick. This beat out the previous record holder, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, which came in at 1.8mm, and the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which came in at a comparatively bloated 2mm. These watches are impressive feats of engineering that are both rare and delicate. Making watches thinner is its own complicated pursuit. Every week we bring you a selection of our favorite watches from the HODINKEE Pre-Owned Collection, and here are a few that are not quite as svelte, but impressive in their own right.
Piaget Altiplano GOA39105
Piaget has been in the business of making thin wristwatches that push the boundaries of what is possible longer than anyone. The Altiplano concepts have held the crown for world's thinnest wristwatch for most of the past decade. The GOA39105 is a classic dress watch at 34mm wide and 6.3mm thick. The slim case has a small crown, simple straight lugs, and straightforward markers, all demonstrating that sometimes less is more. An off-center sunken sub-second dial helps to give the dial the perfect amount of visual interest.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 102912
The other heavyweight in the battle for the thinnest watch on the market is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. At just a hair over 5mm thick, this is not only the thinnest watch we are looking at today but also the thinnest automatic watch. The BVL 138 movement is a micro-rotor automatic that is itself only 2.23mm thick. While fully able to easily fit under a dress cuff this is not a watch that disappears on the wrist. 40mm of 18K pink gold, sandblasted finishing, and angular case design ensure this Bulgari will get the attention it deserves.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 201.027
Dress watches tend to be on the slim side, they are meant to fit under the cuff of a dress shirt without getting caught on the sleeve's edge. So, when one of the most respected modern watchmakers makes a dress watch and then makes a thinner version of said watch, you know it is going to have no problem fitting under that pesky sleeve. At just a hair over 6mm, the Saxonia Thin 201.027 lives up to its name. This manually wound watch in white gold, has no lume, no date, nothing to get in the way of the elegant simplicity of a classic dress watch. If you want more visual interest, flip the watch over and enjoy the L093.1 A. Lange & Sohne movement through the exhibition case back.
Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin 515.CS.1270.VR
The Hublot Classic Fusion is not a chunky watch in its standard format, but Hublot is not a brand that believes in sticking to building a watch only one way. This Ultra-Thin limited edition of 100 keeps the convenience of an automatic movement but shrinks the case down to 8.5mm thick. This watch keeps the Classic Fusion case shape that is made from lightweight and scratch-resistant ceramic, the second hand being moved from the center to a sub-dial is the only hint that this is not your standard Hublot.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Grande Q1358420
The Master Ultra-Thin is core to what Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for, a classic time only watch that has the proportions of a dress watch and has been tested enough to be a sports watch. The 40mm x 8.62mm thick case is not the thinnest watch on the list but might be the most versatile with 50 Meters of water resistance, a steel case, and the Master testing – testing that puts the watch through 1,000 hours of running in different temperatures, pressure, and shock.
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