Introducing Moser's New Pioneer Is Smaller And Better Than Ever (Live Pics)

Fresh off its complicated tantalum release late last month, H. Moser & Cie – Moser to their friends – are announcing two new Pioneer models in a new smaller 40mm x 12mm steel case. The watches – a one-minute tourbillon and a center seconds model – feature Arctic Blue fumé dials that go from a dark blue at the edge to a lighter color in the center but shift color in the light due in part to a striking sunburst pattern.

Those dials feature applique beveled indices that play with light and shadow and add an extra area of contrast against the dial, while small Super-Luminova hour markers sit on the rehaut above the dial and match the lume on the leaf-shaped hour hands. In keeping with Moser's preference to let the watchmaking speak for itself, the brand logo is set in transparent lacquer that can only really be seen at certain angles as the light catches it against the the sunburst pattern.

But the real shocker here is the case size, down nearly a whopping three millimeters (2.8 if you're being picky) while retaining the same movements of the previous Pioneer watches and the general same shape, with sharp lugs and a recessed section cut out of the midcase. The watches also have 120 meters water resistance, making it the most sports-oriented Moser on the market.

The tourbillon model has the HMC 804 automatic caliber, designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.'s sister company, Precision Engineering. It has a double hairspring, improving accuracy, and the tourbillon is an interchangeable module, assembled and regulated independently of the movement, reducing servicing downtime. The center seconds model also has an in-house automatic movement with the HMC 200 finished with Moser'sdouble stripes on the bridges and the main plate. Both movements guarantee a minimum of three days of power reserve.

Both watches come on a rubber, textile, or leather strap, or (for the sportiest look) steel bracelet. The center seconds model will set you back $14,200 while the tourbillon is $54,900.

Nearly exactly a year ago I was in Switzerland chasing down the untold story of one of Switzerland's greatest watchmakers and spending some time with the Meylan family that – in addition to being related to that watchmaker – owns H. Moser & Cie. To accompany me on my journey I had a Moser Pioneer Center Seconds with a stunning Mad Red fumé dial. And for all I wanted to love it, at 43mm it just was too big. I even pressed CEO Edouard Meylan on that fact.

While Meylan never said it couldn't be done, he did say downsizing cases for these movements would be a challenge, and it's one they've certainly stepped up to meet. To my taste, the new Pioneer models are just right at 40mm.

The dials have never been the question for Moser. This Arctic Blue fumé sunburst pattern is really great, even better than the stunning Mad Red in part because of how the brand hid its logo. Meylan told me part of the inspiration for that came from his dad's collection of pocket watches and realizing that watchmaking is all that should matter, not the name on the dial. The handset, indices, and movement finishing seem appropriate for the price point. But in passing around that previous 42.8mm Pioneer to friends while I had it, the feedback was that it felt too big. Yes, with 120m water resistance, Moser was undoubtedly making a statement sporty watch, but all the other little touches took it far enough away from "sporty" that it just didn't feel right to be that large.

While trying to resist turning this story into a full-blown "Hands-On," I can say that these two options wear much more comfortably and balanced on the wrist. In fact, I'd nearly say it's a whole different ballgame for Moser now. If they had a winner in the eyes of their fans before, I think this opens them up to a whole new audience.

If I had to nit-pick I wish the brand would soften the edges on their lugs, which are beautifully flat on the bottom but with the edges near the case back that are sharp enough to carve a steak. Still, these new Pioneers are the kind of watches that will always surprise and delight their owners because you can start to forget you're wearing a watch until you look at it and see that beautiful dial shining back at you, shifting in the light.

Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
Model: Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue and Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue
Reference Number: 3200-1217 (Center Seconds); 3200-1217 (Tourbillon)

Diameter: 40mm (both)
Thickness: 10.4mm (without sapphire crystal), 12mm (with sapphire crystal)
Case Material: Steel
Dial Color: Arctic Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
Indexes: Applique indexes, with luminous hour markers
Lume: Leaf-shaped hour, minute hands, and hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova®
Water Resistance: 120m
Strap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, textile strap, or steel bracelet. Straps with steel buckle, engraved with the H. Moser logo.

Caliber: HMC 200 (center seconds); HMC 804 (tourbillon)
Functions: Hours, minutes, center seconds (center seconds); Hours and minutes (tourbillon)
Diameter: 32mm (both)
Thickness: 5.5mm (both)
Power Reserve: Minimum of 3 days (both)
Winding: Automatic (both)
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (both)
Jewels: 27 (center seconds), 28 (tourbillon)
Additional Details: One-minute flying tourbillon.

Price: $14,200 (center seconds), $54,900 (tourbillon)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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