Introducing H. Moser's Streamliner Is Back In A Smaller, Refined Case (Live Pics)

Does H. Moser's new Streamliner look familiar to you? It should. The sleek lines and design cues – those taken from high-speed trains of the 20s and 30s – continue to be the hallmarks of Moser's integrated bracelet offering. But after three years on the market, the Streamliner is, well, streamlining its form into a new, subtly tweaked time-only watch based around a smaller, 39mm platform. 

The most immediately noticeable change is that the new Streamliner, which had a few previous center-second releases, has a new striking Grand Feu fumé enamel dial. The appropriately named "Aqua Blue" color has the hues of a bubbling deep blue body of water, requiring twelve firings on the three pigments for the ombré effect. Like several recent H. Moser releases, there's no name on the dial. Edouard Meylan once told me that idea came from seeing old pocket watches where the watch itself was all that was needed to show a brand's quality, not a name on the dial. But unlike the brand's other recent Grand Feu dials, this one has an offset small seconds at 6 o'clock on a lacquered sub-dial with a circular pattern.

That might not be the most significant change here, however. Thanks to the new HMC caliber 500, the watch has been made slightly smaller, having been shrunk by 1mm in width and 0.9mm in thickness. This new 100% in-house micro-rotor movement is made by H. Moser's and measures 30mm by 4.5mm thick, making it the brand's smallest movement of the 21st century. With a heavy platinum rotor and smaller, slimmer components, the movement also offers 74 hours of power reserve. 

That smaller movement size allowed Moser to shrink the watch just enough that the case lines became more elongated and refined. While the original Streamliner center-seconds was $21,900 at release, this new model is CHF 29,900, a big step up, but the dial and new movement may be worth it to potential H. Moser fans who were looking for a reason to finally buy into the brand.

Cards on the table, I was pretty excited when H. Moser told me they had a new, smaller Streamliner coming. I've been a fan of the watch as it offered an independent alternative to the more mainstream integrated-bracelet sports models that continue to be all the rage on the market. But despite the sleek shape and interesting bracelet design, it always felt a bit too bold for my taste and a bit big on the wrist.

I won't sit here and tell you that a 1mm change in width or thickness makes all the difference in the world. I can't think of many instances where 1mm is a "stop the presses" moment for any watch. But I could make a strong argument that, in this case, it does a lot more for the Streamliner than the dial, no matter how striking that Grand Feu enamel is – and it is. 

From a brand standpoint, size has been a limiting factor for the Moser, and that limitation has rested nearly solely on their movements. Previously, Edouard Meylan told me that he has pushed for a smaller movement for a long time. And it's always been impressive, the things H. Moser has been able to do with their small top-to-bottom manufacture – including their complicated movements – but the new HMC 500 might be one of the most critical achievements yet. It also will open them up to being able to make progressively smaller movements in the future.

A smaller movement allowed Moser to shave just enough off the case shape to refine the lines of the watch, and it's a small change that made an immediate improvement. The sides of the case run smoother from top to bottom and from dial to bezel, with a softened transition between the case and the bracelet. It also wears extremely well – not as well as a dream 8.1mm-thick Streamliner might, but it's getting there.

In addition to the movement design, the finishing is great as well. I love Moser's anthracite tones and how they play off the other movement parts, with the interior angles and skeletonization adding a lot to my appreciation of the movement.

Weirdly, the one place I'm most on the fence is with the Grand Feu fumé dial. Don't get me wrong, it's got a beautiful color, texture, and finish. I'm also generally a fan of small-second watches. But Grand Feu enamel sings in a pure, uninterrupted form. The separate sub-seconds dial isn't as distracting in person as in the pictures, but I would have been curious to see the brand forgo the small seconds altogether and let the dial stand alone.

The last question I have – and you may share – is how buyers will react to the price. I can see the potential value of a new movement and extra artistry in the enamel dial. But creeping up over $30,000 puts the Streamliner in a new price range with tough competition. The finishing is there, in my opinion, but I've always found pricing a watch because of its finishing to be a hard sell on a watch that might otherwise have mainstream design appeal for a large number of consumers who don't think about those things. 

Now, instead of being a more affordable and independent alternative to generally unobtainable watches like the Royal Oak or Nautilus, the Streamliner is closer to head-to-head with the price of a 16202. It's also become nearly as unobtainable, with several readers sending me Instagram messages begging for my help getting the "smoked salmon" dial (help that – for the record – I have no power to give). 

In cases like this, though, I give some deference to the brand. They've done their research and know their market, and I'd guess they'll probably get far more requests than they can fulfill. The watch is worth it.

Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
Model: Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
Reference Number: 6500-1200

Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 10.9mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Aqua Blue fumé "Grand Feu" enamel with hammered texture
Indexes: Applique indices
Lume: Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Water Resistance: 120m
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated steel bracelet

Caliber: HMC 500
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 4.5mm
Power Reserve: 74 hours
Winding: Automatic microrotor
Frequency: 21,600
Jewels: 26
Additional Details: Original Straumann® hairspring, finish with Moser stripes

Price: 29,900 CHF
Availability: Immediately
Limited Edition: No

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