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What We Know
The revived Daniel Roth is introducing the next version of its Tourbillon, now in rose gold. Fresh off last year's Tourbillon Souscription, a few updates in line with the historical evolution of the tourbillon have been made, but this year's edition is largely similar, just with a rose gold case and dial.
The Tourbillon is inspired by the original Daniel Roth Tourbillon C187, designed by the master watchmaker to put the tourbillon on full display on the dial side. The rose gold dial features a guilloché en ligne, compared to the Clous de Paris on last year's Souscription (essentially straight-line guilloché). Similarly, the caliber DR0001 is put on full display through a sapphire caseback, an evolution compared to the Souscription's closed caseback. The Daniel Roth brand points out that both of these changes are historically accurate changes that were made between the original C187 Tourbillon and later generations.
The movement is designed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the direction of watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Its large bridges feature vertical Côtes de Genève stripes, while the curved bridge driving the tourbillon is black-polished stainless steel.
Daniel Roth is using 18K 5N rose gold, which means this version of the Tourbillon will be slightly more rose compared to the original examples (which used 4N gold). The brand says this gives the watch a warmer feel, especially with the "pink on pink" effect of the matching gold dial. This also further differentiates the watch from last year's Souscription Tourbillon. The dial is produced in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, and the guilloché is done by hand.
While the case reproduces the shape of the original, the caliber DR0001 allows it to be slimmer, and the lugs have also been redesigned with a slight curve to better fit the wrist. As with the original tourbillons, the number of each will also be engraved on the dials' "moustache" above the tourbillon cage.
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold has a price of CHF 155,000. For comparison, the Tourbillon Souscription was CHF 140,000.
What We Think
Daniel Roth has said that, as of the announcement of this watch, all 20 Tourbillon Souscriptions have been delivered. Next, it'll begin production on the Tourbillon Rose Gold. While not a limited edition, production is limited by capacity. The brand says it's capped at 50 pieces a year, limited especially by the craftsmanship required by the dial.
As for the other updates to the Tourbillon, it's a faithful evolution of the watch, all callbacks to Daniel Roth's history. The craftsmanship and dedication from LFdT to create a modern edition of the Tourbillon is undeniable, but how that might evolve beyond Daniel Roth's historical models remains to be seen.
The Basics
Brand: Daniel Roth
Model: Tourbillon
Reference Number: DAAD01A1
Dimensions: 38.6 x 35.5mm
Thickness: 9.2mm
Case Material: Rose gold (5N)
Dial: 18K rose gold with ligne guilloché, also engraved "Daniel Roth" and with each watch's individual number
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Brown calfskin leather strap on tang-style buckle
The Movement
Caliber: Caliber DR0001
Functions: one-minute tourbillon
Thickness: 4.6mm
Power Reserve: 80-hour power reserve
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 3 Hz
Jewels: 19 jewels
Additional Details: Movement is developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 155,000
Limited Edition: No, capped to 50 pieces per year by production capacity
For more information, visit Daniel Roth's site.
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