12 Unique Pieces From Only Watch 2023

Covering auctions is a rush. There's always so many lots to cover, gems that risk getting overlooked, and very little time to take it all in. That pressure is only heightened for Only Watch. Not only are you surrounded by unique pieces that you're likely never to see again, but you're also covering something that only happens once every two years. At the end of the day, it's also a charity that benefits research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Then there's the time crunch. I only had about an hour to peruse, photograph, and form opinions on the collection of 62 lots at a preview at Christie's in New York. That means I had to miss covering a lot of beautiful and fascinating watches. In fact, I could have done a whole series on rainbow watches from Bell & Ross, Czapek, Grönefeld, Hublot, Jacob & Co., and more. There are also fascinating complications from Konstantin Chaykin and Frederique Constant that I'm kicking myself for not digging into. All that to say, it's worth looking through the catalog closely, especially if the opportunity to attend a preview presents itself.

With the preamble sorted, read on for plenty more to whet your "Only Watch" appetite.

A Gold Medal For Tudor

While it's probably cliché, when I arrived at the Only Watch preview, I made a beeline to the Tudor. This may actually be the first "Big Block" chronograph I've ever truly liked. No doubt that's in part because it draws a lot of inspiration from one of my favorites, the gold Rolex ref. 6263 Daytona. It turns that out all I needed was a lot of gold to sell me on the idea.

And it really is a lot of gold. The Tudor Prince Chronograph has a sizeable 42mm 18K solid yellow gold case (I, unfortunately, was not able to measure its thickness). The watch is incredibly heavy – maybe one of the heaviest watches I've handled – but felt balanced in my hand because of the solid links on the 18k yellow-gold bracelet. Oh, and as a bonus, you get a T-Fit clasp in 18K yellow gold as well.

No peeking at the movement, unfortunately.

It's not just about this being the first 18k yellow gold "Big Block." Tudor remains the sole representative of "The Crown" at Only Watch, with Rolex not participating. Rolex (and, by extension, Tudor) doesn't let prototypes out on the market, but here they're purposefully releasing a watch with a prototype of a brand-new Manufacture Chronograph Calibre entirely developed by Tudor.

It's the brand's first in-house chronograph movement, and while there's no more Valjoux 7750 that gave the watch its original vertical dial layout and date at 3:00, it made sense to use the callback here. With this new movement, the watch features a column wheel chronograph. Tudor or Rolex, it doesn't matter all that much as it's a bold move from the generally buttoned-up Hans Wilsdorf Foundation to put a prototype out in the world. The fact that they put it in a fan-focused, nostalgia-inducing package is just a bonus.

The estimate range is pretty comical, however. No one needed a low estimate to be enticed to bid. Add a zero to the end of the "high" estimate of CHF 35,000 and you'll be closer to the ballpark for this amazing watch.

Lot 58, estimate CHF 25,000 to 35,000

Materials Science

Within the guise of "materials" watches, there were three that really struck me. The first, a white ceramic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked, might be one of the more "obvious" lots in Only Watch. But that's only because Audemars Piguet is really really good with ceramic. Those ceramic pieces are client favorites, so the bidding on this lot will definitely be strong. The cal. 2972 movement you'd find in the production model of RO Skeleton Tourbillon now features blued titanium bridges and plates. It's a bold combination. But what else would you want if you're buying a white ceramic Royal Oak?

Just like AP is becoming inextricably linked to their ceramic work; there are few brands more closely tied to a case metal than F.P. Journe and its use of Tantalum. The Chronomètre Bleu has become one of the most sought-after indie watches over the last few years, but Journe kicked it up a notch with the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif and its bold, fully Tantalum case and bracelet. First, not everyone loves Journe's LineSport models. Second, the case material is so hard to work with that, as far as I can tell, no one else has gone this far with it (not even AP, which used tantalum in two-tone cases in the 1990s). The result is both beautiful and lighter than I expected for such a dense material.

Journe being Journe, we can't forget that they've carried on the brand tradition of a new movement for every Only Watch. The caliber 1522 in 18K rose gold is a stunning bit of work, with power reserve and moonphase on the back at 12:00 and 6:00, respectively, which keeps the symmetry of the double-barrel movement. But the biggest surprise is that this is the first time Journe has done a central seconds movement. You can't miss it, either, with the bright orange hand hovering above the blue enamel dial. That dial, which the name suggests should be frustratingly stealthy to read, was also more legible than expected – just hard to photograph accurately.

But the most outside-the-box material experimentation, hands down, has to be Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble. I heard rumors back in May that Bulgari planned to lean into their heritage with a "very Italian" material, but I never expected it to be this impressive.

The watch is remarkably light. I assumed that whatever amount of Verde di Alpi marble was on the watch would add a decent amount of heft. However, the 40mm by 6.9mm thick case framework is made out of DLC-treated titanium, while the marble is just a .5mm thin layer over the titanium (the dial is .6mm thick). The result was a watch that felt so light that my mind had a hard time processing the disconnect between the visual and the tactile experience. It triggered something inside my head, telling me to be extra careful handling this watch. Or maybe that was the Christie's team in my ear. Probably both.

I still can't process how they did it while maintaining the integrity of the marble, even with the 800 hours of work they said went into it. I wouldn't say this is the best watch for daily wear by far but put it on a pedestal next to your 16th-century marble busts, and you've got a great piece of art.

Audemars Piguet Royal Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked, Lot 5, estimate CHF 300,000 to 500,000; F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu Furtif, Lot 21, estimate CHF 200,000 to 400,000; Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble, Lot 15, estimate CHF 150,000 to 250,000.

Three Whimsical Chiming Watches

There's nothing more charming or impressive to me than a great chiming watch. Repeaters and sonneries are my favorite complications, and there are a few superb examples in Only Watch this go-around. They are also great examples of Only Watch's mission to "Create Beauty to Do Good."

The Biver Carillon Tourbillon might have been one of the most controversial announcements of the year, with a massive price tag for a brand's first watch, albeit even one associated with an industry legend. But their second watch, a unique piece for this year's charity auction, left some people scratching their heads. Their new titanium-cased watch is called "Catharsis" and is based on the same caliber. Curiously, though, you can't tell the time from the dial. The goal was to create a watch where time was at the wearer's disposal rather than letting the wearer be ruled by time.

In-person, the repeater has a beautiful tone, but a lot of the beauty is in the unique dial. The lower part is designed to look like an agitated sea made of sapphires, while the upper section is a sunset representing a starry sky made of meteorite, silver obsidian, and opal. The movement still has an hour hand at the back to set the approximate time, but this is more an art piece than anything else, and the stone setting and different materials come together in fantastic fashion.

Am I excited Gérald Genta is back as its own brand? To quote our favorite friendly rodent: "Uh-huh. Oh BOY!"

If you're a Genta Fan or a Disney fan, this is a big year for you. Not only is it the 100th anniversary of Disney, but it's also the 50th anniversary of the first watch under the Gérald Genta name. And despite my growing love for some of Genta's weirder designs (like the octagonal perpetual calendars), there's really nothing more iconic than Mickey Mouse. Gérald Genta has done a great job working with Disney to tell a narrative about Mickey and how he came to be on this celebratory watch, so I'd encourage you to check out their website for more of the backstory. This is just a fun watch that blends incredibly technical watchmaking, combining a minute repeater with the jump hour and retrograde minute hand, plus the Mickey design a lot of people love from Genta. And the enamel work is amazing.

If there's anything that could threaten you with a good time full of whimsy more than Mickey Mouse, it might be H. Moser and MB&F. I covered their "Streamliner Pandamonium" announcement, so I'll let that speak for itself on the technical side. But in person, I have to say I love how well the domed design of MB&F fits with the Streamliner case. They seem like they're meant to be together. The cute panda buddy is fun to look at, but honestly, even if it's not your thing, it's kind of easy to get lost in the rest of the design. I didn't get to hear the last two watches chime, but they put a smile on my face nonetheless.

Biver "Catharsis," Lot 10, estimate CHF 500,000 - 700,000; Gérald Genta, Lot 25, CHF 350,000 - 500,000; H. Moser x MB&F "Streamliner Pandamonium," Lot 28, CHF 300,000 - 400,000.

The Indie Scene

We've gotten this far and we're only finally talking about Rexhep Rexhepi. In journalism, we call that "burying the lede." And yes, I think this could be one of the top lots of the entire auction.

Rexhepi was one of the delayed deliveries for Only Watch 2023, with only he, Patek, and Richard Mille not having a watch ready by entry announcements. He also took an unusual path and made a watch with an optional closed caseback. If you're going to put a lot of pressure on your design language, you better knock it out of the park, and I believe he did.

The dial evokes early "scientific" dials in Rexhepi's own way. It's hard to photograph, but I think it hits the right balance of toughness and elegance for a watch like this. The case mirrors that as well and is one of the rare cases made by the great case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann in stainless steel. The movement ring, caseback, and dial plate come together to form a Faraday cage that protects the movement from magnetism.

One of the greatest disappointments of the preview is I wasn't allowed to remove the back cover to see the actual movement, which is brand-new. For more info and a picture, check out our original introducing story. A new movement gives me hope that maybe, someday, I can get on the list for a CCIII...

I also had to check out Ferdinand Berthoud's entry, the FB3 "Only Watch," if for nothing else than to see an FB3 in person for the first time. From what I understand, this watch only differs from the GPHG-nominated FB 3SPC watch in that it has a 42.3 mm round case in brown patinated bronze. That bronze is meant to represent the passage of time and celebration of an anniversary in the life of the brand – 270 years since the brand's namesake became a master watchmaker.

The achievement that brought it to GPHG's attention is largely because the watch houses the first COSC-certified movement with a cylindrical balance spring, which required years of testing to achieve. But it completes a legacy, in a way, as Ferdinand Berthoud himself worked on cylindrical balance springs and was known for his development of marine chronometers.

Finally, the entry of the "AdC30 Only Watch" from Atelier de Chronométrie. Again, I mostly took the time to see this watch because I had yet to see any AdC in person. I don't have much to say, except I think it's a striking watch with an enjoyable design and solid finishing. I'll let you decide how much you love it and encourage you to leave a comment below.

Rexhep Rexhepi "Chronomètre Antimagnétique," Lot 50, estimate CHF 100,000 - 150,000; Ferdinand Berthoud "Chronomètre FB 3 'Only Watch'" Lot 22, estimate CHF 160,000 - 180,000; Atelier de Chronométrie "AdC30 Only Watch," Lot 5, estimate CHF 50,000 - 70,000

Big Time Moves From Otherwise Affordable Brands

We're almost done with the watches I saw, but I couldn't let the Baltic and Furlan Marri entries pass by without a few photos. Tony Traina did a fantastic job covering the depth of watchmaking in the Furlan Marri Secular Calendar. It's impressively thin, considering the complex movement – only 11.3mm. To have a 400-year leap-year, secular year, and perpetual calendar and to run it off one single corrector is impressive, and it's also not at all what I would have expected after reviewing the brand's simple time-only watch earlier this year.

Equally surprising – and eerily similar in some respects – is the fact that Baltic also produced a perpetual calendar. Even more impressive is its novel – a 100% newly developed perpetual calendar run by the ultra-thin Vaucher 5401 micro-rotor movement.

These two young brands have made a name for themselves, making vintage-inspired watches at achievable price points for the average person just getting into watches. So what gives? There are probably a few factors at play. The technological cost of doing complicated watchmaking has gone down over the years while access to knowledge has expanded. This has allowed younger brands to attempt things they never could have tried before. It also shows that these two brands aren't content to be stuck doing "vintage-inspired" or "vintage-adjacent" projects forever. And that's great news.

Baltic's dial does remind me a bit of an AP Royal Oak "Tuscan dial" perpetual calendar, so I'm hoping to see them experiment with their dials to form their own language there. Either way, the CHF 20,000-30,000 estimate on both is really interesting. As production watches, I could understand it. As unique pieces, I honestly don't know how high they could go, but I'm excited to find out.

Baltic "Premier Quantième Perpétuel," Lot 7, CHF 20,000 - 30,000; Furlan Marri x Dominique Renaud x Julien Tixier "Secular Perpetual Calendar," Lot 24, estimate CHF 20,000 - 30,000.

What We Didn't See

In addition to the watches I didn't have time to photograph and handle at the preview, three lots were conspicuously missing.

Urwerk's Space-Time Blade is 1.67m tall, kind of what I assume people mean when they say, "Mark, you're a tall guy; you can wear a bigger watch." In collaboration with Dalibor Farny, Urwerk's glass pedestal clock shows the hours, minutes, seconds, and, more uniquely, the kilometers the Earth has traveled. But it's also a bear to travel with and probably just a little fragile. Meanwhile, Richard Mille has shown off a sketch of a pendant watch called Talisman Origine, codename RMS14. The in-house skeletonized automatic-winding tourbillon movement is set to be cased in red gold and titanium with a necklace of Swiss briarwood, gold, titanium, and rhodonite. If it weren't for Bulgari, it would probably be the most interesting use of material in the auction.

The biggest mystery is still Patek Philippe. As we previously mentioned, Patek will be making a 30-piece limited edition wristwatch to celebrate Philippe Stern's 85th birthday in November. The watch will be Stern's "favorite grand complication," with a "movement, designed and produced exclusively for this tribute watch." That production will be kicked off with the unique Only Watch. The brand recently showed off the commemorative caseback engraving for the watch, but that's all we've seen so far.

Patek doesn't take a strict definition of "grand complication." I wouldn't expect a combination of perpetual calendar, minute repeater, chronograph (and possibly tourbillon). The little I know about Mr. Stern's taste is that he likes more simple, classic, uncluttered dial designs. I could imagine a new Grande et Petite Sonnerie, three years on from their first. Whatever the release is, I imagine it'll keep Patek's streak of top Only Watch lot alive.

For the full list of lots and those participating in Only Watch, head to onlywatch.com.

H-moser