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What We Know
In case you missed the headlines, today marks the start of Geneva Watch Days, and we have our first big surprise reveal for the show as the Russian independent brand Konstantin Chaykin shared a new prototype watch called the ThinKing – and it's just 1.65mm thick (or thin).
For those not following this "thin is more" arms race, the ThinKing follows the progressive battle between brands like Piaget, Richard Mille, and Bulgari in pushing the envelope for just how thin one can make a mechanical watch. To summarize a whole lot of engineering and marketing, Piaget got to 2mm with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Richard Mille got to 1.75 with the RM UP-01 Ferrari, and Bulgari got down to 1.7mm (with COSC) with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. All of those linked stories are worth a look, but Konstantin Chaykin has come out swinging with the still pre-production ThinKing.
To be clear, the watch is more of a design and engineering study at this point, as what we see in these images (and more are coming soon) is the second prototype that Konstantin Chaykin has produced along the path to a production model. With that established, the ThinKing is 40mm wide with a case made of "special steel" (the brand's term; we will try to clarify this asap) and an unstrapped weight of 13.3 grams.
The design of the ThinKing is informed by Konstantin Chaykin's "Wristmon" designs that feature a face-like layout for the watch functions (the best known Wristmon is likely Konstantin Chaykin's delightful "Joker" series). For the ThinKing, the two "eyes" are formed by displays for hours and minutes, and the "smile" is a brand signature engraved into the steel case front (which is used to increase the rigidity of the watch).
The K.23-0 movement is integrated directly into the case (as we've seen with the most modern ultra-thin designs). It's a manually wound caliber that ticks at 2.5 Hz, offers 32 hours of power reserve, and can be wound by a key or a special carrying case that can also automatically wind the movement. The K.23-0 features a Swiss lever escapement, a special single ultra-thin winding barrel, and a double balance system with a geared clutch. Obviously, minimizing the layers in the movement is key to getting a truly thin watch, and Konstantin Chaykin has minimized the idea of a mechanical watch to the point that it's actually thinner than an American nickel (the whole watch, mind you) and even comes with a wearable protective case.
The winding/carrying case is called the Case-PalanKing, and it's essentially a puck that sits on the caseback to both help strengthen and protect the watch as well as wind the movement. The Case-PalanKing allows the watch to still be worn on one's wrist, and even with the case, the total thickness is just 5.4mm (a remarkable feat, illustrated below). The recommendation is that the owner uses the Case-PalanKing whenever they are in a scenario that might pose a threat to the watch (I assume they mean intense physical movement, but we'll ask).
The development of the ThinKing resulted in three patents covering the winding barrel, the double balance wheel, and the strap. Yes, the strap. The watch is so thin that the pressure from being worn has to be partially managed by the strap. As such, Konstantin Chaykin has made the strap out of alligator leather and elastic inserts with titanium supports to help transfer some of the stress (shocks, twisting, bending) from your wrist away from the case.
As this is a prototype, Konstantin Chakykin has not made any comment about pricing or availability. So, if you're in the market for an ultra-thin watch, you're going to have to wait if 1.65mm is your cut off.
What We Think
I love a prototype. I grew up obsessed with concept cars (shout out to the '97 Pontiac Rageous), and I love the idea of a brand – especially a smaller brand – showing something that is perhaps more of a dream or a work in progress rather than a final commercial product. It puts a flag in the ground, and for Konstantin Chaykin, in 2024, I can't imagine a better move than to share something as wild and experimental as the ThinKing, even if only for publicity.
I also really like that the ThinKing both looks largely watch-like (unlike the Richard Mille), and I'd argue that it's recognizably a Konstantin Chaykin design (assuming you're the type of enthusiast who knows the brand's product). It doesn't feel like a random side project or a half-baked tech demo, but rather a peek into a special project to make a very thin watch.
And while I'm sure any sort of record-setting will be with an * for production vs. non-production, to someone who will never be in the market for such a product, the difference is not all that concerning to me. It's a prototype of some very cool watchmaking. I'm not sure that a price tag and a delivery date would make me feel much differently (though I would love to see it running, and hopefully, we get a better peek at the winding/carrying case). Clearly, when it comes to the most ultra-thin watch designs, winding the movement and making sure the case is strong enough for actual wear remain the main challenges, and the ThinKing presents one sort of solution to those problems.
We'll have a more in-depth story on the ThinKing soon, but I think Konstantin Chaykin has earned some limelight with this announcement. Now that there is a new (albeit prototype) king in town, it'll be interesting to see what brands might be inspired to create the next evolution of the ultra-thin watch.
The Basics
Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
Model: ThinKing Prototype 2
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 1.65mm
Weight: 13.3g without strap
Case Material: Steel
Dial Color: Silver
Water Resistance: Not listed
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator strap with elastic inserts and titanium supports
The Movement
Caliber: Konstantin Chaykin K.23-0
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 32 hours
Winding: Manual, via a key
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Jewels: 51
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Movement is integrated into the watch case
Pricing & Availability
Price: Not for sale; development of a production model is still underway
For more, click here.
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