Bring a Loupe A Funky Rolex, A NOS Breitling, And A Limited Laurent Ferrier

Much of the appeal of a great vintage watch boils down to the fact that what's on your wrist likely isn't on that of the next guy in the room. Whether you want to label that as exclusivity or individuality is up to you, but there's something undeniably special about that feeling. Given the far easier acquisition process of most modern offerings, this sensation is harder to realize, making unique pieces the logical move for those in search of something truly special. Of the many names to create one-off novelties, few do it more tastefully than Laurent Ferrier, who consistently delivers timeless and mechanically sophisticated designs through his independent watchmaking outfit.

Last week, what might be the ultimate configuration to date of my favourite Laurent Ferrier reference was released in conjunction with A Collected Man. With a stainless steel case, this Galet Classic Tourbillon is immediately among the ranks of the most sought after pieces in existence by the brand, given that only 18 of these cases have been produced, and all house the Cal. LF619.01. For context, we're talking about a modern interpretation of Laurent Ferrier's first watch, complete with a double spiral tourbillon, and cased in stainless steel. All of this adds up to a massively significant piece from not only a collector's perspective, but in the eyes of the manufacture itself. 

Even if you didn't know it was cased in stainless steel, or one of so very few pieces, it would be easy to recognize this as no ordinary watch after only a quick glance. Its taupe enamel dial with applied Breguet numerals can be thanked for this, affording the 40 mm timepiece a quiet elegance. It's also one of the more unique enamel dials I've encountered, with a decidedly organic looking textured surface. Designing a highly complicated and important watch that doesn't demand attention is not an easy task to pull off, and one that's deserving of recognition. I'll be interested to see what sort of collection this ends up in. 

London's A Collected Man has this collaborative, one-of-a-kind Laurent Ferrier listed on their website for £135,000. Don't sleep on this one, because after it's gone, there won't be another. 

When in the market for a new watch, most eccentric types of individual taste I know have rarely opted for a Rolex — a decision which I perfectly understand. Although they're incredibly well designed and over-engineered, most of the brand's offerings just don't have that avant-garde flair to scratch the horological itch of this discriminating crowd. Over the years, the watchmaker itself has been wholly aware of this notion, and while not exactly concerned with addressing this market, an attempt was once at doing so. This resulted in the asymmetrical King Midas, which was produced in extremely limited numbers until its eventual discontinuation. In most forms, it's not exactly my bag, but there is one variant that I'd happily welcome into my collection. 

Following the original Ref. 9630 and its successor, the Ref. 3580, the King Midas design was later branded as a Cellini collection model. Of the multiple references that made up this unconventional Rolex's second chapter, those mounted on exotic leather straps are perhaps the most compelling. This is because unlike the bracelet fitted models, these watches are even more un-Rolex than their already bizarro counterparts, in a way that's almost reminiscent of Gilbert Albert designs produced by Patek Philippe. There’s just something so special about a daringly different watch from a brand best known for continually operating within a tightly defined framework. 

Judging this example of the Ref. 4017 just as you would any other Rolex of the same vintage, there's a lot to love here from both a condition and configuration perspective. Most impressively, this piece is being offered with its original caseback sticker still attached to its untouched 18k case, which houses a rich burgundy dial. Upon leaving the factory, this watch was mounted on a matching burgundy crocodile strap, which is still present and in terrific shape. Without question, this example was only worn a handful of occasions over the past several decades, and it shows. 

If you're after a different sort of Rolex, Gai Gohari of Classic Watch is selling this Cellini King Midas for $5,500. Further details and photos can be found here. 

As I said towards the end of last year — a whole month and a change ago — Breitling chronographs quickly became an unexpected focus of mine over the course of 2019. In addition to the usual Navitimer and Chronomat fare, the Swiss brand produced a number outstanding pieces which don't get nearly enough attention in today's market. My favourite of the under-loved bunched is the Top Time, and after catching wind of an outstanding example, I simply had to include it in this week's roundup. 

You’re looking at the Ref. 815-3, best known for its oversized case and panda dial. The word "wow" is quite literally in the seller's listing title, and with very good reason. First things first, let's discuss condition, which in the case of this piece is about as close as it gets to perfection. Though I'd argue the term "new old stock" is only warranted if a watch has genuinely never seen the light of day, I'll give this piece a pass as it's clean to the point of passing as a well executed reissue. Should you need any convincing, review the high resolution dial shot, which the dealer could honestly sell in framed form. Like the aforementioned Rolex, this is a watch that was rarely worn if ever at all. 

Making this Top Time all the more appealing is the presence of original warranty papers, instruction manual, and box, all of which correctly correspond with the specific example at hand. Unlike certain chronographs from other brands, it’s far less often that you come across a full set Breitling, and even more seldom that the watch inside happens to remain in absolutely pristine shape. Factor in the "long playing" 52-hour power reserve of this piece, and there really is nothing to not like.

Shuck The Oyster of Berlin is currently offering this stunning Top Time, which will set you back €6,500. Click here for the full scoop. 

You might've been satisfied with one untouched, full set chronograph, but I wasn't, which is why I threw in a second. It's a rare opportunity that you come across an example of a watch that puts all others in existence to shame, but when that does occur, you must take note. That's because seeing a watch just as someone else would've in a retailer case way back when reinforces the true beauty of these early designs. If you've ever been so lucky to handle a vintage watch along these lines, you'll know that you're instantly hit with a wave of understanding as to why these references are now held in such high regard. 

The 1940s birthed some of history's most stylish chronographs, and those produced by Heuer can certainly be found near the top of the list. With sharply faceted lugs that connect to a 35 mm case, the Ref. 418 has a lot going for it in the good looks department. Over the course of this reference's production, Heuer offered a number of different dials, but the example in question just so happens to have been fitted with my favorite of the bunch. The combination of its applied dot indices with the two numerals and feuille-shaped hands is about as good as it gets. I really can't think of a better way to describe it. 

This is without a doubt what I'd describe as new old stock, seeing as its dial is flawless, and its case doesn't look to have a single scratch in sight. Further supporting this coveted label is the  slight layer of oxidation which has developed over years of storage, which can be best seen on the lugs and caseback. Like I said, this time capsule Heuer is also a full set, with the original box, buckle, strap, and hang tags included. These tags shed light on the example’s origins, as well, confirming that the watch would've been originally sold in America. 

Gary Haftel of Exposing Time is offering this world class chronograph with an asking price of $12,500. I can say with full confidence that you will not find a better example on the market, so if your important Heuer collection is missing a Ref. 418, jump on it. Find the full listing on his Instagram account.

Sometimes the provenance of a watch is more interesting than the actual watch itself. Though some are quick to scoff at a piece should it not be a blue chip reference, I've always enjoyed a good story, especially when it's tied to another name as iconic as that of the watchmaker. During a routine scour of eBay's many curiosities, I found a piece that fits this description to a tee, which I'm now excited to share with you. If you're into old, gold, and automotive associations, you'll definitely want to keep reading. 

This is a relatively humble Cal. 284-powered, 34 mm Omega, but it's elevated to that next level of intrigue thanks to a Dunlop logo on its dial. Flip the watch over, and you'll find an engraving which suggests that this piece was awarded to an individual by the name of R. Thompson after "25 completed years of loyal service" in 1959. At this point in time, Dunlop was not only manufacturing their innovative pneumatic tires, but had also since diversified their efforts into the production of countless other rubber and latex products.  

While on the topic of engravings, I thought I'd make mention of what can be found inside the caseback. Popping it off will reveal a line which reads "O.A. 1607" which I believe indicates that this is what's known as a "contract case," produced for Omega by another manufacturer. This was a common practice for the Swiss watchmaker back in the day, as tariffs on the importation of gold-cased watches to certain countries once cut into the brand's bottom line. If you ever want to jump down a rabbit hole of epic proportions, try your best to learn of all the different contract case manufacturers, along with their corresponding signatures. It'll take a while, and don't say I didn't warn you.

An eBay seller based out of Scarborough, Queensland, Australia has this piece listed with an asking price of AU $2,600 equating roughly to $1,750. You also have the option to make an offer, so have at it!