Bring a Loupe A Fortis Marinemaster, A '60s Tudor Sub, And A Rolex Ref. 3525

As of late, a few dealers have been suggesting that vintage Cartier is about to experience, or is already experiencing, a boom. Personally, I don't think this is the right way to go about selling watches, as you're risking the loss of a client should the market not explode soon, or even take a dive. To me, a boom doesn't seem likely as the watches are small and not exactly suited for modern casual attire, inherently limiting their appeal. Nevertheless, the brand's offerings are a terrific area to focus your attention should they work for you. Since many seemed to enjoy the inclusion of a quirky desk accessory of the horological variety last week, I thought we'd kick things off with another from Cartier. Forthcoming boom or not, this thing is plain old cool. 

If having the time on your phone, watch, computer, and letter opener simply isn't enough, the next order of business is getting a clock for your desk. If a unique specimen of noteworthy provenance is up your alley, consider this one — ordered custom at Cartier in 1955 as a gift for Betty Grable. For those not familiar, Grable was a model and Hollywood actress who made over 40 films throughout the 1930s and 40s. She was also recognized as the highest-salaried American woman in 1947 and the number-one pin-up girl of the Second World War. With her name spelled out on the dial with applied indices, there's no question that this piece was produced for her. 

Flip the clock over and you'll notice that apart from telling the time, it can also be used to determine what day a given date is (or vice versa) using the rotating calendar found on its backside. The seller offering the clock has stated that it was ordered by her husband at the time, which was likely the band leader Harry James given its year of production. This educated guess is supported by the letter from the family which is included to support its provenance. Whether you're an old Hollywood aficionado or a Cartier obsessive, this one's sure to pique your interest. 

Biltmore Lux has this 18K gold desk clock listed on their site with an asking price of $8,500. Check it out here. 

Shortly after last week's column went live, I made my way down to Miami to attend what's arguably the best annual vintage-watch collector get together in the country – NAABS. While there, I had the pleasure of handling just about every top Rolex reference under the sun, along with a multitude of less-conventional though equally drool-worthy curiosities. While the watches are nice, it's the sense of community within this scene that really does it for me. But, we're here to talk watches last I checked. With this in mind, I thought I'd make mention of one of the more striking pieces I came across, which just so happens to pack a serious punch in the value department. 

Regardless of how individual your tastes may be, it's hard not to lust after a gilt dial Submariner. From both an aesthetic and functional standpoint, it really is a perfect design, cementing its unofficial status as the premier white T-shirt of watches. Great examples are no longer as accessible as they once were, but that doesn't mean you have to give up your hopes and dreams, as Ref. 7928’s from Tudor are always an option. Though their dials might not have coronets, the curved text and old-style script found on early examples are nothing short of epic when preserved properly. 

This example is indeed epic, as evidenced by its unpolished case, glossy silver-print dial sporting a gilt chapter ring, and the evenly aged applications of tritium. If you weren’t already convinced that this is a top shelf Tudor, direct your attention towards the correct "long five" bezel insert, which has turned dark brown after years of exposure to the elements. Though similar money can put a second-rate Rolex equivalent on your wrist, it'll always be wiser to opt for the best example your budget will allow. For this sort of money, this is your best bet if an upper-echelon Submariner is what you're after. 

@autaviano on Instagram is offering this stellar example from his personal collection for $14,000. More details can be found on his post.  

After having written up a Pre-Daytona last week, I've jumped back down the rabbit hole of early Rolex chronograph research to better determine my tastes. In the earliest days, there was the Zerographe. While historically significant, it is likely a tough wear and not suited for the wrists of most. Furthermore, it's impossibly rare, so most aren't exactly in the process of tracking one down, let alone actually wearing one daily should they be so lucky to own an example. Naturally, the 1940s and 50s birthed some of the brand's purest designs, of which the Ref. 3525 ranks high among them. Like other chronographs of the era, its 35mm case is to the point and free of superfluous lines. This made it a prime candidate for everyday wear in a variety of situations, some of which were less expected than others. 

Today's example was originally purchased by Sgt. Anthony O'Brien of the British Special Air Service at Dobbies Limited in Nairobi. Interestingly enough, O'Brien is believed to have been introduced to the reference first in POW camps after being captured behind enemy lines during the Second World War. After avoiding execution by convincing the enemy he was in the Royal Air Force, O'Brien was transported to several camps, including Stalag Luft III, where headed a tunneling operation with the “Tally-Ho” escape committee. If the brigade name doesn’t ring a bell, just know they’re the crew that inspired 1963's The Great Escape, starring Steve McQueen. 

Like the Tudor, I had the pleasure of inspecting this example in the metal last week, and it doesn't disappoint in the slightest. Despite its age, all the scales and markings on its patinated dial are perfectly legible, and the case remains thick. Even if the watch didn't enjoy such important provenance and a seldom seen retailer signature, it would definitely be a sought after example and one that any serious collector would be proud to own. The proverbial icing on the cake is the period-correct Gay Frères bracelet which has been fitted, tying the whole piece together nicely. 

If interested, head on over to Wind Vintage, where this important Rolex is being offered for $59,000. Whoever claims this as their own surely knows what's up. 

Few chronographs powered by the Valjoux 72 have left a lasting impression on both horological history and the watch collecting masses, but those which have enjoy legendary reputations. With that said, I think some have taken things a tad too far with the hyping of its presence in certain watches. While what's inside does count, it's the full package that matters, and a decidedly meh watch with a nice caliber beneath the caseback is still uninspiring in my opinion. Don't get me wrong, it's an excellent chronograph caliber of tremendously high quality, but to regard it as a rarity wrapped in a mystery is to turn a blind eye to its objective mass production.

This Fortis is the full package, and an accessible one at that. Not only is it powered by a sophisticated caliber, but it's fitted with an exotic looking dial unlike most other pieces of the same vintage. As you might know, the Ref. 8001 Marinemaster was produced in this configuration, along with another featuring blue accents. Each one is attractive in its own right, though I'd argue that those bearing this dial are more compelling and have the potential to age more interestingly over the passage of time.

Condition is everything, but there are indeed a few instances where exceptions can be made. Colorful watches are one, because if the aging is even and consistent it can yield pleasing results. This example's once-yellow sub-dial surrounds at nine and six o'clock have turned a rich orange, with the third at three achieving a darker tone. Aside from this smattering of patina, the rest of the dial is quite clean and complemented nicely by an unpolished stainless steel case. All in all, it's an honest and striking piece you'd be sure to have some fun with.

Antiquorum is offering this Fortis chronograph in their upcoming Hong Kong sale, taking place on Thursday, February 27. Its estimate has been set at HKD 19,500 - HKD 35,100, roughly equating to $2,500 — $4,500 for our American readers.