Editor — Malaika Crawford

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The logo eventually came to bear a tinge of despair, a relic of faded glory even. Violent volumes of licensing agreements – Saint Laurent signed his name to everything from sunglasses to bed linens to cigarettes – began to exhaust a brand image that was so strongly evocative of Frenchness. In 1997, Citizen Watch Co. of America was licensed to develop and market a collection of Yves Saint Laurent watches to be distributed in the U.S. and Canada. The YSL license was actually granted to Citizen by Cartier, the worldwide master licensee for YSL accessories, including watches, jewelry, leather goods, and pens.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5f3f6b84-e7b0-478d-aead-196ee85fa8b0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Along with a rise in the flow of licensed products from higher-priced brand categories, there was a growing preference for well-known brands from consumers in department stores and retail outlets. This created the perfect environment whereby very desirable, well-known labels from other product categories (license brands) could enter alongside watch manufacturers' proprietary brands. During this period, product development for YSL watches was led by the U.S. team and developed with the approval of YSL France, but the product lineup was positioned exclusively for the North American market. The collection made its debut at fine jewelry and watch trade shows in Geneva and Basel in April of 1997. Aimed at department stores and fine jewelers, The concept was \"Sporty Elegance.\" The lineup primarily focused on pair watches, with a price range between $150 and $500.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9a06c5dd-262c-42d4-ace4-e616aba018a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"These watches were, at best, a mere dilution of the once dynamic and disruptive Yves Saint Laurent look. It was an inevitable consequence for a brand that stamped itself imperiously across anything and everything product-wise in the '80s and '90s. YSL sold the ready-to-wear business to Gucci for some $1 billion in 1999 and shut down the couture house when Saint Laurent retired in 2002. \n\nGucci's Tom Ford, taking charge at Yves Saint Laurent, terminated and cleaned up the licenses on which France's renowned fashion house was built, \"Stamping your name on fashion products used to be a license to make money. Now, a smart designer looks for a license to kill,\" announced Suzy Menkes in The New York Times in July 2000, \"The theory is to create a leaner, fitter luxury world in which clients are better served and designers reap the benefits of bigger profit margins for their own stores.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["eeed7988-467a-4575-8313-ef5b635738a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"A genuine aesthetic revolt is hard to come by. And by revolt, I mean a large-scale, era-defining, old silhouette-revoking, new silhouette-imposing, sartorial global infiltration. During the latter half of the 20th century, Yves Saint Laurent led a fashion mutiny and conquered victoriously, creating one of fashion's most revered houses and virtually inventing ready-to-wear with Rive Gauche. Fashion watches followed the same revolutionary path, albeit far less glamorously. Foresight and technology in Japan turned the horological status quo on its head.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Today, licensed watches are relegated to the confines of mid-tier luxury, along with perfume and sunglasses. In 2024, \"Fashion Watches\" have been redefined with the big maisons (Dior, Hermes, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc) now pursuing their own mechanical watchmaking facilities or developing partnerships with well-known Swiss suppliers. But perhaps we could argue that without the quartz revolution and early licensing like YSL and Citizen, that Louis Vuitton may not be making Tambours nor Chanel making J12s?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Yves Saint Laurent's Licensing Agreement With Japanese Watch Brand Citizen.","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":322,"slug":"fashion_watches","name":"Fashion Watches","description":"Why watches made by fashion houses should be part of the horological conversation.","sort_order":19,"created_at":"2023-05-26T12:52:54.532-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-26T12:55:43.414-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"ff706ce9-eb0f-4a44-a102-85e8edf75c64","container_id":13526,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c5a306b8-fa2f-4c08-a9f1-7502b0ae3ef6/Citizen-YSL-1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-07-02T16:11:09.120-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-02T16:11:09.120-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c5a306b8-fa2f-4c08-a9f1-7502b0ae3ef6/Citizen-YSL-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/citizen-and-yves-saint-laurent-a-not-so-unlikely-tale-of-licensing-agreements","full_title":"Fashion Watches: Citizen And Yves Saint Laurent: A Not So Unlikely Tale Of Licensing Agreements ","tags":["japan","quartz","citizen","fashion-watches","1970s","yves-saint-laurent"]},{"id":13531,"slug":"the-baby-g-summer-jelly-watch","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Baby-G Summer Jelly Watch","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-03T15:00:05.393-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-03T09:41:47.489-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-03T15:01:44.920-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"We take a sickly sweet hit of Baby-G nostalgia for school break.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":21046,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Baby G has launched a compact BGD-565 in three jelly colors: blue, yellow, and pink. The Jelly Summer watch takes the first generation of the 1994 Baby-G, the BGD565, makes it Y2K, and releases it for kids in 2024. Of course, it also works for adults like myself who love translucent pastel anything. The watches are each made of resin, measure a wrist-friendly size of 42.1 × 37.9 × 11.3 mm (L x W x H), and are 100 meters water-resistant.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["55583101-c6e5-402a-8d84-82c80c80fd0c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Baby-G was launched in the early '90s as G-Shock's answer to watches for women. The new line of watches still carried the important water and shock-resistant specs of a G-Shock but often with a saccharine '90s style twist. The watches attracted almost cult-like popularity, and teenage girls (no doubt inspired by<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tumblr.com/baby-g-uk/93101657158/tbt-baby-spice-rocking-her-baby-g-watch/" target=\"\"> Baby Spice in her own Baby-G</a>) launched them into ubiquity.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The aesthetic hook with Baby-G was always about the translucent case. It evoked everything that was \"girl power\" (sorry, I had to) trend adjacent and became a relic of Y2K, fruity roll-on lip gloss, translucent iMac G3, jelly shoe enthused culture. There is even an entire Wikipedia page dedicated to the \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clear_craze#:~:text=Through%20the%201990s%2C%20the%20clear,as%20Apple's%20iMac%20G3.\" target=\"\">clear craze</a>.\" Oh, and by the way, translucent is back in (see The Row's $890 flats <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.therow.com/products/mara-flat-electric-blue/" target=\"\">here</a>.)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ede40979-0711-4b42-9058-ee1f83d927fc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["025bee8d-7892-4964-a7a0-54d2b7bfa316"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Sometimes, I dream about gem-set RM 07-02s, and then I dream that Hublot will one day make smaller watches in baby blue and baby pink Saxem. Unfortunately, RM isn't my lifestyle, so I will gladly settle for a little sickly sweet nostalgia in the form of a translucent pink Baby-G. It's partly an ode to my middle-school watch and partly because I think it just looks cool. I'd wear it to the beach on rotation with my trusty neon swatch, adding it to my arm along with all the braided and beaded bracelets that I somehow always manage to acquire when on vacation. It could get wet or covered in sunscreen and accumulate tiny little grains of sand in the corners and crevices of the case and screen, turning into a forever reminder of my summer vacation.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6609c420-6884-43c9-b847-8d6c570089c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: G-Shock Model: Baby-G Summer Jelly Reference Number: BGD-565SJ-2; BGD565SJ-7; BGD565SJ-9\n\nCase size: 42.1 x 37.9 x 11.3mm (L x W x H) Case Material: Resin Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Resin","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $99 Availability: Now\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio.com/us/watches/babyg/products/digital/bgd-565sj//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of G-SHOCK., explore the collection<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/g-shock-brand/" target=\"_blank\"> here.</a>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review of the Baby-G Summer Jelly Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d3ab4303-76a7-40c2-9d13-f2ec75fdbdf6","container_id":13531,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3358c0ec-d79d-44e0-8b8b-9bc6e83cf095/JellyBabyG.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Baby-G Summer watches ","created_at":"2024-07-03T09:41:47.555-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-03T09:41:47.555-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3358c0ec-d79d-44e0-8b8b-9bc6e83cf095/JellyBabyG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-baby-g-summer-jelly-watch","full_title":"Introducing: The Baby-G Summer Jelly Watch","tags":["casio","summer","blue","yellow","baby-g","pink"]},{"id":13522,"slug":"usher-wears-a-vintage-piaget-to-the-2024-bet-awards","column_slug":"watch_spotting","title":" Usher Wears A Vintage Piaget To The 2024 BET Awards","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-01T13:00:04.394-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-01T09:40:15.531-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-01T13:01:11.020-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Glamour is alive and well. Momentum for 1970s design-led watches on the red carpet is still going strong.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13835,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Last night Usher added to the now quite sizable list of men in small (to medium) watches from the '70s on the red carpet. Sporting an 18k yellow gold vintage manual-winding Piaget with diamond pavé dial and basket weave bracelet, Usher has (un)officially ingratiated himself into a trend that has slowly taken over the world-wide-watch web. But let's remember that, for the laymen at home, who aren't perusing images of Cartier London and Patek stone dials on Instagram in their free time, seeing a vintage gold watch rather than a sportier Rolex or AP will make for a refreshing change.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c0bcf82a-691b-4db4-8dc0-1902e773f6d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Piaget is still having a moment. After the Polo 79 release and vintage resurgence (read Tony's thoroughly comprehensive guide to the vintage Polo <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-original-piaget-polo/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>), it seems like the momentum shows no sign of slowing down. As much as we look to Instagram as the gospel truth for what's trending in our beloved watch community, what's trending in the real world usually comes down to what the celebrities are wearing. And, Usher, who performed at this year's Super Bowl, was wearing vintage Piaget to accept his BET Lifetime Achievement Award.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["21496f3b-0b5d-444c-8de1-ff1a18e35939"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Perhaps the desire for these types of watches in our enthusiast bubble is merely a function of trend cycles, but I like to think big picture. Luckily, every time I start doubting humanity for its abhorrent obsession with athleisure and refusal to get dressed up, by some miracle of the watch gods, I can breathe a comfortable sigh of relief. Celebrities in diamond-set watches from the '70s means glamour is alive and well!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Top photo: Johnny Nunez/Getty Images for BET","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Usher Wears A Vintage Piaget To The BET Awards 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":22,"slug":"watch_spotting","name":"Watch Spotting","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles that feature photography from news and wire agencies. The focus may be on one watch or multiple watches from a single event.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.241-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:24:41.017-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"a8965bf1-0f6f-46f1-9bf1-3ff931062e0d","container_id":13522,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/730d854e-5411-4e7a-a9ca-e135e65c65c8/usher_watch_spotting_piaget_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Usher Wearing Vintage Piaget ","created_at":"2024-07-01T09:40:15.567-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-01T10:26:39.752-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/730d854e-5411-4e7a-a9ca-e135e65c65c8/usher_watch_spotting_piaget_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/usher-wears-a-vintage-piaget-to-the-2024-bet-awards","full_title":"Watch Spotting: Usher Wears A Vintage Piaget To The 2024 BET Awards","tags":["watch-spotting","vintage","piaget "]},{"id":13503,"slug":"intro-richard-mille-rm-65-01-automatic-split-seconds-chronograph-in-sunny-yellow-and-sky-blue","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph In Yellow And Blue Quartz TPT ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-24T13:00:05.030-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-23T14:31:30.447-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-24T13:01:03.378-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Richard Mille's most complicated automatic watch gets a material makeover.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":31999,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Last week, Richard Mille added two new colors to the RM 65-01 lineup. First launched back in 2020, the RM 65-01 is made of 600 components total and is the most complicated automatic (non-LE) watch to be produced by the brand. The very saturated yolky shade of yellow will exist as a limited run of 120 watches, and the pastel blue will become a staple in the collection. Both are made of Quartz TPT or Thin Ply Technology (Quartz TPT was first developed for the RM 27-02 Nadal), which is a composite made of multiple layers of quartz fibers, which are generally used for very high-performance applications due to their resistance to high temperatures, their strength, and their transparency to electromagnetic waves.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["29fb9d7d-2283-4183-8aa5-85622cf64403"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Richard Mille, with its focus on motorsports, has long focused on highly complex chronographs. Starting with the RM 004, a manually-wound, split-second powered by a Renaud & Papi caliber, these new RM 65-01s are the latest in the lineage. This high-beat, self-winding rattrapante chronograph features Caliber RMAC4, a high-frequency movement with variable inertia, oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph)/5 Hz. The RMAC4 in the RM 65-01 is supplied by Vaucher and was originally based on the architecture and layout of the Parmigiani caliber PF361.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3c722237-5fad-4916-abd0-818d858421b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I'm not really one for frequency talk, but it's pretty helpful to take a little frequency crash course (brush up on your knowledge <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watchs-frequency-hz-vph-meaning/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>) in order to understand this model. Technically, a chronograph operating at 5 Hz is more functional than the more common 4 Hz alternative. A movement running at 5 Hz has a balance that is physically oscillating at 36,000 vph; on the dial side, this translates to the ability to measure elapsed time (the whole goal of a chronograph, after all – just ask Zenith) in one-tenth-of-a-second intervals, compared to one-eighth of a second with a chronograph running at 4 Hz.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6e49e323-a075-47f2-83e9-942bb8cd72ac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Equipped with a vertical clutch and dual six-column wheels for a smooth pusher feel (hey, you get what you pay for), the chronograph is capable of timing events up to 12 hours. The total power reserve is 60 hours, while a variable-geometry rotor optimizes winding according to the wearer's activity. A button located at eight o'clock is labeled, in very Richard Mille fashion, \"RAPID WINDING,\" as it allows for just that. More of a feature for feature's sake (or, as another watch journalist astutely put it to me, \"a solution looking for a problem\"), one can push this button a mere 125 times to \"rapidly\" recharge the mainspring. The function selector on the crown enables the wearer to switch quickly from traditional winding mode (W) to setting the semi-instantaneous date (D) or the hours and minutes display (H).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Pricing for either of the new pair of RM 65-01's is $380,000 and while the blue model is part of the brand's active collection, the yellow variant is limited to just 120 units. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["30cb1618-4338-4ea7-bdc6-ba28baa7753d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"It's officially summer, which means it's officially peak Richard Mille season for the flamboyant-leaning, watch-wearing elite – and for Pharrell Williams, who seemingly won't take off his RM UP 01. Speaking of Pharrell, an RM 65-01 in a custom color signed by Pharrell on the caseback way went up for auction at Joopiter's \"Just Phriends\" auction last year and sold for $481,250. The auction was curated by Sarah Andelman, former creative director of the Paris concept store Colette. RIP Colette. This all speaks volumes about the aesthetic of this particular RM model when you consider the overall brightly colored and strikingly contemporary aesthetic of the rest of the lots in the auction. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["32eec98a-f77c-44af-8d0c-fe71571c21bd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Color is one of the things that RM does best. While it seems like this release is a simple color change to the existing 65-01, it's important to note that colors and tints have to be added to the resin material that eventually becomes Quartz TPT at the first stage of manufacturing. Should the chemical that alters the color conflict with any of the other materials in the quartz composite, the entire material could be compromised. This color change is likely the result of a long process of RnD and few other brands would go through such a lengthy process for the sake of a color change.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c337a7f8-8dc8-4c40-8b8f-5822276a9624"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Is the rapid winding mechanism essential when you could simply pull out the crown and wind the watch? No. But these are adult toys. The more smartly color-coded buttons that correspond to the functions on the dial, the merrier. Do these watches seem more technical than they are? Perhaps. Am I willing to let myself be bamboozled by marketing because I enjoy getting a quick glimpse of a very glamorous lifestyle that is not mine? Yes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Richard Mille Model: RM 65-01\n\nCase dimensions: 44.50 x 49.94 mm Thickness: 16.10 mm Case Material: Quartz TP + Quartz TPT Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 50 m Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2307ee12-8226-4515-95f4-2fc51b5fe656"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: RMAC4 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, split-seconds chronograph, function selector, rapid winding and variable-geometry rotor Diameter: 31.78 x 29.98 mm Thickness: 8.69 mm Power Reserve: Around 60 hours (±10%) without chronograph running Winding: Automatic Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz) Jewels: 51","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $380,000 Limited Edition: The yellow model is a limited edition of 120\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://press.richardmille.com/rm65-01/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing the RM 65-01 in yellow and blue Quartz TPT","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"8bb8dea8-6db9-4bab-ab4c-2560527da165","container_id":13503,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/01272649-ea18-4268-9830-fe1f455c3d08/richard-mille-hero-2024.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Richard Mille RM 65-01 Quartz TPT Watch ","created_at":"2024-06-23T14:31:30.525-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-24T08:57:24.916-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/01272649-ea18-4268-9830-fe1f455c3d08/richard-mille-hero-2024.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-richard-mille-rm-65-01-automatic-split-seconds-chronograph-in-sunny-yellow-and-sky-blue","full_title":"Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph In Yellow And Blue Quartz TPT ","tags":["richard-mille","split-seconds-chronograph","rattrapante","rm 65-01"]},{"id":13495,"slug":"the-noah-x-timex-sun-and-moon-watch","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Noah x Timex Sun And Moon Watch","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-21T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-21T06:41:49.496-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-21T17:08:02.682-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The pair's latest sold-out LE gets a second wave. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":52142,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"NYC-based menswear brand Noah has launched an Art Deco style day-night watch with Timex. Gold-toned and very vintage-inspired, it's a little quartz-powered riff on a classic Tank-style dress watch, and it costs a very humble $198. The gold-plated, stainless-steel case measures 37mm x 25mm, which, for scale, means it is slightly larger than both the largest model Tank Must and LC. The stepped case is a little chunky; there's certainly a lot more heft to it than a Cartier Tank. But chunky works here.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff7eab39-61ae-47df-a0a9-94fc9c3c0f43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch isn't supposed to be dainty; it's a re-contextualization of a classic look, but with modern dimensions. The white dial features a railroad minute track with black Roman numerals and tiny little gold indices for added detail. The day-night aperture sits below 12 o'clock with illustrations of a smiling sun, moon, and stars. The Noah logo is placed at three o'clock and Timex at six. The watch comes on a black leather strap with a crocodile-style pattern. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"If you want to look at this through a vintage lens, you might say, at first glance, that it has a Tank Chinoise feel. In my mind, the vibe is a little more Cristallor. For the true watch-heads, one could compare it to a Patek \"Top Hat\" 1450. Regardless of its inspiration, this collaboration presents an incredibly well priced riff on a very classic style.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad6cf6dc-527d-4c71-985e-e6488028b8e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The Noah x Timex Sun and Moon Watch was initially released about 10 days ago, and all 200 units sold out in under five minutes. Noah then introduced an unlimited pre-order for the watch (which ends at midnight tonight, so click quickly). Delivery for this second batch is April 2025, so you'll have to be patient if you're part of the second wave. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["97f1ada1-3c57-4a47-aa47-5a948f04fac3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Noah sits in a unique position as a mid-price-point contemporary menswear brand with genuine fashion chops. Founders Brendon Babenzien (former creative director of Supreme and relatively newly-appointed J.Crew Men's Creative Director) and Estelle Bailey-Babenzien are NYC and London natives who offer a younger, cooler, skate-wear-inspired spin on heritage classics. For some reason, in 2024 (outside of Aimé Leon Dore), it's almost impossible to find brands like these that offer something at the intersection of fashion, traditional menswear, and streetwear. Noah's look is casual but reminds us that it's possible to look refined without wearing a suit. It isn't about abandoning streetwear or sweatpants; it's about wearing them in a more evolved way, like with a gold tank watch. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Given the teeny tiny watch craze, I'm surprised the watch isn't a bit smaller. But then I do keep reminding everybody that the teeny tiny watch crazy really doesn't exist very far beyond the circle of hardcore watch enthusiasts. Noah is a \"trendy\" NYC brand, but they have a commercial objective. A medium size with a slightly chunky frame makes sense. If we really wanted to be purists here, we could ask to do away with the second hand. It would just be a cleaner look.\n\nI believe in this type of low-stakes collaboration model. In fact, I'm pretty sure if Stüssy or Palace made a watch in a similar vein to this – both of my early 20-something skate-wear/streetwear-obsessed brothers would be running to buy whichever one they could get. This is just more proof of dress watches permeating the wider market. And so, the high-low dress watch and sweatpants combo continues to march. Full speed ahead.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Noah x Timex Model: Noah x Timex Sun and Moon Watch Dimensions: 37mm x 25mm Case Material: Gold-plated steel Dial Color: White Indexes: Applied Lume: No Water Resistance: 50 m Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap with crocodile pattern ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Quartz Functions: Hour, minutes and seconds, day-night indicator","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $198 Availability: Pre-orders ends tonight (6/21) at midnight.\n\nFor more information about the Noah x Timex Sun and Moon Watch, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://noahny.com/products/noah-x-timex-sun-and-moon-watch/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing The Noah x Timex Sun and Moon Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"398767fd-e436-44bb-a573-fda1995ec09e","container_id":13495,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/82ff6d06-c962-4755-9fd4-4ce13d66c742/timexnoahgoldhero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"noah x timex sun and moon watch","created_at":"2024-06-21T06:41:49.564-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-21T08:29:47.863-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/82ff6d06-c962-4755-9fd4-4ce13d66c742/timexnoahgoldhero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-noah-x-timex-sun-and-moon-watch","full_title":"Introducing: The Noah x Timex Sun And Moon Watch","tags":["timex","moon-phase","noah"]},{"id":13482,"slug":"hermes-the-cut-a-forecast-for-expansion","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"Hermès 'The Cut,' A Forecast For Expansion ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-20T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-17T05:51:50.746-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-04T16:53:22.020-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"One of the world's top purveyors of luxury goods adds a 36mm mechanical sports watch to its catalog, adding further illustration of just how much business is booming at Hermès.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":23699,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Hermès released a new line of 36mm sports watches powered by mechanical movements, aimed primarily at women. The Hermès Cut is smaller, rounder, and softer than the \"men's\" Hermès H08. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hermes-launches-the-cut-a-sport-watch-for-women/" target=\"_blank\">My initial read</a>: a simple, clean, easy-to-digest (and commercially viable) watch that proves the brand's intention to keep marching full speed ahead with growth of the category.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Hermès' watches have been <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-case-for-hermes/" target=\"_blank\">a staple amongst fashion enthusiasts and bourgeois consumers</a> since the Jean-Louis Dumas reinvention of Hermès in the 1970s. Signature models like the Arceau and Cape Cod have peaked and troughed in wider mass-market popularity, yet they have remained a constant go-to amongst seasoned watch-wearers who exist outside of puritanical enthusiast circles, as well as fashion obsessives (see <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/hermesbymargielaarchive/p/CEJlGBUgEhR//" target=\"_blank\">Martin Margiela's creation of the double tour</a>). Success for entry-level models that sit somewhere around the $5,000 mark could, up until now, be attributed to good looking, equestrian-inspired design and the power of Hermès branding on the dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["964a9aa4-30fb-4087-b0a9-6a4f6de4319b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Recent growth of the Hermès watch segment – fueled by more high-end models featuring in-house mechanical movements and intricate embellishment, enamel and marquetry work – signifies a new chapter for the maison. A large part of this horological momentum has been driven by the success of the H08, a 21st century industrial-looking sports watch conceived to appease the needs of today's modern Hermès customer. According to the annual Hermès Activity Report, watches accounted for 5% of revenue in 2023, compared to 3% in 2020. This may seem like a tiny piece of the pie, but the pie in question is enormous, and growing steadfastly. In 2023, consolidated revenue amounted to €13.4 billion, up from €6.4 billion in 2020 (or over 100% growth). Hermès Horloger does not include AppleWatch bracelets. To see watches not only keeping pace, but also climbing persistently within the overall business is a resounding victory for a company whose primary port of desirability comes via luxury leather handbags.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Not all Hermès watches are created equal. New releases have come a long way from what many would argue were quartz movement subsidiary products to core leather goods offerings. Today Hermès has a legitimate stake in the mechanical watch game. In 2006, it acquired a financial stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (movements); it also bought up Natéber SA in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 2012 (dials) and Joseph Erard SA in Le Noirmont in 2013 (cases). As of 2017, the case and dial entities were brought together in Le Noirmont and christened \"Les Ateliers d'Hermès Horloger.\" In their Seventh Annual Swiss Watcher report, published in February of this year, Morgan Stanley reported a repositioning of Hermès' watch offering with a push into Haute Horlogerie (watches with an ASP of around €300,000), with around 100 units being sold every year, helping the brand's watch desirability (a strategy known as the halo effect).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["677bd8f3-dab6-4d9a-9fd1-98b909a2112a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Hermès has been receptive to a dynamic watch market and changing tastes. According to Business of Fashion, the CEO of Hermès Horloger, Laurent Dordet, notes that women account for 80% of Hermès Horloger's sales (although it is unclear if this is measured in units or revenue). The Cut, a watch created \"for women\" powered by the in-house Caliber H1912, is a middle ground product. By remaining relatively neutral in design and hitting a 36mm, middle ground size, the luxury brand is providing non-discriminatory access. It's marketing the offering to women but letting the consumer decide rather than strongly designating who should wear what.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Cut is sporty in an elegant way. It's an Hermès sports watch with a distinctly Hermès design, setting it apart from a crop of sports watch derivatives that exist in the market today. With less of an aggressive silhouette than the more rugged and industrial looking H08, it's slim and easy to wear. The watch currently comes in 36 variations, which include interchangeable rubber strap options in colors from the maison's leather collection. The entry price starts at $6,725 and caps out at $21,900 for the two-tone stainless steel and rose gold with diamond iteration.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["43dc9c35-b1fe-42c2-9ead-7368ad8cb52e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Given its success, why not just shrink down the H08 to meet demand for a wider sports watch audience? Surely we are at peak stainless steel sports watch saturation? Surely a new \"ladies'\" sports watch release (a notoriously difficult corner of the market to succeed in) would be a daunting exercise for any brand that stands outside of the \"touched by Gerald Genta\" inner sanctum? Uniformity is not always the answer.\n\n\"Shrinking down a large model to create one with smaller dimensions isn't necessarily the right approach,\" says Philippe Delhotal, creative director of Hermès watches. \"If we had made the H08 in a small size, I'm not sure that the proportions would have been right, and so we went with an entirely new design.\"\n\nAdding The Cut to the catalog means a higher probability of success in both directions. The Cut will no doubt work for many of its male customers as the H08 is currently working for a portion of women.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b58c926-19d0-4624-8a04-be7f4874eddb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Design is a hugely important and well-executed part of the formula for Hermès Horloger, particularly with its mid-price-point offerings. It's what sets them apart from the middle-ground mechanical sports watch competition. The watches may be manufactured in Switzerland, but Hermès is a French house with French codes.\n\n\"I learned to immerse myself in the values of the maison, the graphic charts and the many creations across the metiers,\" says Delhotal, who has been with the brand for 16 years. \"Before you design an object, whether it's a watch or something entirely different, automatically you have inbuilt reflexes, Hermès reflexes, French, ultimately Parisian reflexes.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["850274c1-f3a9-431d-b996-c489f17a1af7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The shape within a shape (circle inside of a cushion) of The Cut reminds me of Ellsworth Kelly and his Geometric abstractions, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.moma.org/collection/works/80537?sov_referrer=art_term&art_term_slug=geometric-abstraction\%22 target=\"_blank\">Sophie Taeuber-Arp's perfectly circular and rectangular forms</a>. The original idea for The Cut actually references an exhibit held at the Centre Pompidou-Metz with Hermès in 2015 called \"Formes Simples.\"\n\n\"Ten years ago we reflected on our own creation and output at Hermès,\" explains Dordet, \"finally deducing that we always concentrate on timeless and simple shapes – man-made simple shapes that have existed since the prehistoric times from Greek sculptures to modern artists like Brancusi and Jean Arp and later Anish Kapoor. It's something that looks simple, but never is. Its identity is taken out of a detail.\"\n\nAnd in this case the detail would be the sliced edge of the watch: The Cut.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch itself has rounded edges and sweeping cuts in its left and right case flanks, almost like a sliced (or perhaps perfectly eroded?) pebble, with the crown between 1 and 2 o'clock so as not to interrupt the beveling on each side. Beyond the conceptual and perhaps slightly lofty idea of shape in relation to identity, there are tiny Hermès signatures all over the watch: a lacquered or engraved H on the crown; the seconds hand on the steel model with a little luminous Hermès orange dot that sweeps over the gray and orange-accented minutes track; and a typography that is distinctively graphic, but different from the H08, therefore placing the The Cut in its own unique design-language-lane.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b1e36366-9e74-4f89-9eba-62169133714a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The use of graphic typography on a watch dial feels uniquely Hermès.\n\n\"Watchmaking on the whole, doesn't prioritize typography,\" explains Delhotal. \"Typography is a metier in and of itself and it's more of a risk to include in the design of a dial. There's no risk when you use traditional indexes, you can't really go wrong. But when you design a 12 that's not entirely symmetrical and is a little quirky-looking, you're making more work for yourself. It's not easy.\"\n\nBut that's the thing about Hermès, they know how to balance tradition and modernity, in and outside of watchmaking.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's clear that business for Hermès is booming and its watch segment is a part of rapid overall post-Covid growth. The H08 has not only turned the traditional mid-tier-price-point Hermès watch formula on its head, but it's also expanded the brand's fanbase to a demographic that considers themselves \"serious\" watch-wearers. Now The Cut is riding on the tailwind of H08 growth and the rising prestige of Hermès haute horlogerie. But are we willing to embrace a new stainless steel sports watch whose roots do not originate in mid-century Switzerland? Take Hermès off the dial and add JLC and perhaps we'd have a comments section blowing up with universal praise?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3df5335f-0faa-4d53-8f28-a4de8508628b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This accessible, easy-to-digest sports watch for women (and obviously men too) makes sense for this current time period – much in the same way the Cape Cod did when released, as it rode on the coattails of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/35275/1/the-untold-story-of-martin-margielas-time-at-hermes-antwerp-momu-exhibition/" target=\"_blank\">Martin Margiela's magic deconstructed '90s touch</a>. Today, we are living in the era of athleisure – which is essentially a catch-all term for anything that is comfortable and materially techie. Athleisure is no longer a fashion statement in and of itself, but has faded into every corner of apparel.\n\nThe same can be said of stainless-steel sports watches. They have become the norm. Capital F fashion has recently evolved into the most up-to-date consumers lusting after a panoply of under-the-radar athleisure type items whose thread count and cashmere ply have become more important than logos or recognizable monograms. Perhaps the real marker of success today then would be a product that is so ubiquitous you don't notice it anymore. Like a Loro Piana sweater or a handbag from the Row or even a black pair of LuluLemon leggings? Hermès is clever by steering its own under-the-radar but just recognizable enough ship (Kelly and Birkin bags aside). The maison keeps branding to an absolute minimum and has no celebrity endorsements. Hermès is the master of its own image.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["28013e9a-d95a-4315-82f6-1bd9d9e7f112"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Cut is a sports watch in the Hermès way – elegant, well designed, with little hints of orange all-over. The essence of the watch is simple, but simple is often the hardest thing to get right. This is clearly a watch created for easy commercial consumption – something the brand isn't shying away from when probed. It's important to remember that Hermès Horloger is the only metier (along with perfume) that is also retailed wholesale.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For now, business at Hermès is unassailable. Perhaps business is so good that any watch launch would prove a growth in revenue? Whatever your stance on Hermès being a bona fide watchmaker may be, The Cut stands as a neatly packaged answer to demand from today's consumer and helps establish Hermès as a watch brand rather than a luxury house that also makes watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"For more information visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hermes.com//" target=\"_blank\">Hermès</a>. The Hodinkee shop is an authorized retailer of Hermès watches, explore <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/hermes-brand/" target=\"_blank\">the collection here</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hermès adds a 36mm mechanical sports watch for women to its catalog ","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Jonathan McWhorter ","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"f4328edf-53cc-4fa5-99e4-66ab8db76797","container_id":13482,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/04031c40-3bbd-493e-8b95-324ba4bb6146/Hermes_Cut_Hero-1021435.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Hermes watch The Cut ","created_at":"2024-06-17T05:51:50.778-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-19T11:39:15.244-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/04031c40-3bbd-493e-8b95-324ba4bb6146/Hermes_Cut_Hero-1021435.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hermes-the-cut-a-forecast-for-expansion","full_title":"In-Depth: Hermès 'The Cut,' A Forecast For Expansion ","tags":["hermes","the-cut","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13463,"slug":"hublots-first-collaboration-with-artist-daniel-arsham-is-a-droplet-shaped-pocket-watch","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Hublot's First Collaboration With Artist Daniel Arsham Is A Droplet-Shaped Pocket Watch ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-10T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-08T12:25:10.416-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-10T13:48:03.554-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The visual artist and fashion collaborator Daniel Arsham releases a three-in-one timepiece with Hublot.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16128,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Hublot has recruited contemporary visual artist Daniel Arsham into its collaborator fold. Last week it released the Arsham Droplet, the world's first sapphire crystal pocket watch – and Arsham's first timepiece as an official Hublot ambassador. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Droplet can be worn/used in three different ways: as a pocket watch, a pendant, or a table clock. Crafted from titanium (the case), rubber (bumpers) and sapphire crystal (a Hublot specialty), it measures 73.2mm (length) x 52.6 mm (width) and is 22.5 mm thick. The shape of the pocket watch is an asymmetrical droplet, unusual in itself when you think about the fact that, outside of Cartier, 99% of timekeeping devices are perfectly symmetrical. Timekeeping is a symmetrical business!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f37b5f18-73c9-42d6-a386-92255e81b539"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Presented with two newly Arsham-designed titanium chains, each featuring Hublot's double \"one-click\" system, the links on the chain mirror the bubble-like structure created inside of the sapphire case, which looks almost like a microscopic close-up of foam bubbles. The piece can be worn multiple ways from a necklace to a pocket watch, or displayed as a sculptural centerpiece on its decorative titanium and mineral glass table stand. There are of course Daniel Arsham-branded touches all over the timepiece: the chain, the color, the Arsham monogram stamped on the surface and the use of the Arsham studio green. We can see, loud and clear, that this is an Arsham collab piece.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["12558232-a22f-4d5f-b4a8-2e71c8578183"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The timepiece/pocket watch/sculpture (I really don't know what to call it) comes equipped with manual winding caliber Meca-10, which boasts a 10-day power reserve. I'm not sure anybody needs 10 days of reserve for their sapphire crystal pocket watch, but hey, this is Hublot and more is more. Despite looking materially techy, the timepiece has an organic feeling to it. The droplet feels smooth in your hands – a tactile little ticking organism that you can caress and grip. It's soothing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["e5268c6e-fe20-4c57-a3da-5f93b1096cde"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Droplet is a bold departure from traditional Swiss watchmaking; I mean surely that's expected from this collaboration. The MO here is to disrupt. Arsham (much like Hublot) is divisive. He can often inspire an eye-roll amongst those who consider themselves discerning culture consumers. But, Arsham is also one of the most globally recognized living artists. What's unique about him in this context is that his art does in fact bear a relationship with the concept of time in his exploration of decay, specifically the aesthetic of erosion on modern objects.\n\nThere is no empty ambassador spiel about his \"relationship with time,\" because his point of view on the subject feels worth listening to. \"So much of my work is about thinking about the past and connecting it with the future – it's like mixing times,\" Arsham said during the launch last week. \"This object looks like something from the past, it recalls this way of telling time that's from another era, but it feels like a kind of technology of the future… the watch is more than just an object to tell time, it's a sculptural proposition.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["825af471-1f11-49bb-84a8-a5a50ed1d05e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Working with world famous contemporary artists has thus far been a successful formula for Hublot. There is always a very clever method to the brand's madness. Undoubtedly Hublot wakes up every morning and thinks \"what can I do differently today?\" – a brazen stance for any Swiss watch brand. But the ripple effect of creating a watch with a globally recognized artist means exposure to corners of the consumer public that would simply never notice you otherwise. And selling a run of 100 LE watches doesn't seem like a hard task, given the breadth of the artists' existing fanbase. These sorts of collaborations, if done sparingly enough, can really only do good for Hublot.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["daa64c93-53cc-4b11-84b7-28a757016ca2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Arsham, himself, is an eccentric creature. He often wears the same cream or beige colored uniform, the same baseball cap and the same orange tinted or black shades every day. He is a celebrity figure who maintains an enigmatic stage persona. As an observer, the Daniel Arsham effect feels like it's all been very carefully constructed. His behavior, his speech delivery, his product, the partnerships he takes on – it's all part of a very well thought out and lucrative Daniel Arsham Studio ecosystem.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["a4dcfe34-395b-48f2-b14a-aad9c1cd64d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"No doubt Arsham has a singular point of view, a view which many respect. But perhaps his greatest achievement has been to capitalize so successfully during this era of collaboration, wielding dollar profit and celebrity from his personal branding and style more than his actual art. The same can be said of Murakami. Hublot is smart to recognize the power of collaborators like these. It's all about finding artists with identifiable enough markers that can be translated into a conceptual watch. It's Pop Art in product form.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Today, the role of the artist as a frontrunner for counterculture has given way to large commercial endeavors and very clever marketing. Arsham is an artist, but above all he's an extremely marketable product. His brand is commercially viable enough to collaborate with giant LVMH brands like Hublot and Tiffany, \"easy\" enough to be consumable for the masses, and just \"cool\" enough to keep the intrigue running. Even if the Droplet isn't your cup of tea, the pocket watch feels so entirely Hublot and also so entirely Arsham that you can't knock either party. It's a respectful 50/50 split of design ideals.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Hublot x Daniel Arsham is a deal that will likely yield millions of dollars for both the brand and for Arsham. Love it or hate it, I am certain you will have feelings about it. And surely that is a win for Hublot.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e864a7a-1127-469f-a5e9-9bbf321e1c23"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Hublot Model: Arsham Droplet Reference Number: 916.NX.5202.NK\n\nDiameter: 73.2mm (length) x 52.6 mm (width) Thickness: 22.5 mm Case Material: Microblasted titanium with rubber bumpers Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Necklace: full titanium with polished links/shiny microblasted clasp and one-click tip; pocket chain: full titanium with polished links/shiny microblasted carabiner and one-click tip; table stand: microblasted titanium/polished green Arsham color sphere and mineral magnifying glass ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: HUB1201 Manufacture Meca-10 Functions: Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator Diameter: 35.2 mm Thickness: 6.8 mm Power Reserve: 240 hours Winding: Manual Frequency: 3 HZ (21'600 A/H) Jewels: 24","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $88,000 Limited Edition: 99 pieces \n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hublot.com/en-es/watches/mp/arsham-droplet-73-2-mm/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hublot is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in HODINKEE, we maintain complete editorial independence.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"7558608b-cc6b-4027-b02f-0c0c36feb818","container_id":13463,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6befc67a-5778-4f4f-ae6d-25c46b203e08/Arsham-Droplet-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-06-08T12:25:10.495-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-08T19:05:49.888-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6befc67a-5778-4f4f-ae6d-25c46b203e08/Arsham-Droplet-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hublots-first-collaboration-with-artist-daniel-arsham-is-a-droplet-shaped-pocket-watch","full_title":"Introducing: Hublot's First Collaboration With Artist Daniel Arsham Is A Droplet-Shaped Pocket Watch ","tags":["hublot","pocket watch","daniel-arsham"]}]}">