Editor — Anthony Traina

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Today, we're chatting watches with our guest, watch journalist Blake Buettner. Blake's a veteran of watch media, having first contributed to Hodinkee in 2010. After that, he went on to work with StockX before becoming the Managing Editor of Worn & Wound. Nowadays, you can find his writing in places like the Robb Report and his own project, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://thedeeptrack.com//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Deeptrack</a>. We talk a bit about Blake's background, the early days of Hodinkee, and how he got into watches. But since he's old hat at this, James, Blake, and I mostly just kick back and talk watches – the new Seiko Speedtimer and exciting microbrands, all followed by a listener Q&A. \n\nA note that Hodinkee Radio will be adopting a summer schedule through the month of August. We're taking next week off, but we'll be back in your feed again before long. Until then, enjoy my discussion with Blake and James. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"O7hH5MESHu0","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://thedeeptrack.com//" target=\"_blank\">Blake's The Deep Track</a>\n\n1:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-rolex-sea-dweller/" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller</a>\n\n4:11: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://windupwatchfair.com//" target=\"_blank\">Worn & Wound's Windup Watch Fair</a>\n\n5:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christopherward.com/int/retro-dive-watches/C65-Super-Compressor/C65-41ASC1-S0WB1-B0.html/" target=\"_blank\">Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor</a>\n\n6:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-oak-and-oscar-atwood-chronograph-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Oak & Oscar Atwood Chronograph</a>\n\n6:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://anordain.com/collections/method/" target=\"_blank\">AnOrdain Model 3</a>\n\n9:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-furlan-marri-disco-volante/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Furlan Marri Disco Volante</a>\n\n10:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/autodromo-captures-the-essence-of-80s-digital-watches-with-the-new-group-c/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Autodromo Group C</a>\n\n11:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://autodromo.com/products/racing-team-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Autodromo Racing Team</a>\n\n14:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/two-days-with-parmigiani-fleurier/" target=\"_blank\">Inside The Manufacture: Parmigiani Fleurier</a>\n\n16:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-dmh-jump-hour-video/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On with the d.m.h. Jump Hour</a>\n\n17:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/field-notes-inside-the-formula-1-usgp-at-circuit-of-the-americas/" target=\"_blank\">2013 Formula 1 U.S. Grand Prix with Armin Strom</a> \n\n26:57: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-latest-seiko-prospex-speedtimer-solar-chronograph-kind-of-references-a-space-age-icon/" target=\"_blank\">Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar in \"Pogue\" Colors</a>\n\n33:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-newest-retro-cool-seiko-5-is-everything-the-seiko-5-should-be/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports 55th Anniversary</a>\n\n33:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/no-en/products/5sports/special/heritage_design_recreation_limited/ /" target=\"_blank\">Seiko 5 Heritage Design Limited Editions</a>\n\n34:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/spb411j1&sa=D&source=docs&ust=1721858152448182&usg=AOvVaw2NBkzrx_qD6ziuwf5bUFAl/" target=\"_blank\">Seiko Navigator SPB411</a>\n\n37:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Doxa Sub 200T</a>\n\n38:13: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex79QKpllZQ&ab_channel=Hodinkee%20\%22 target=\"_blank\">Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster With White Lacquer Dial</a>\n\n40:38: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-aquanaut-reference-5065a /" target=\"_blank\">Week On The Wrist: Patek Aquanaut 5065</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"43:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-with-black-dial /" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Overseas Dual Time</a>\n\n44:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-prototype-worn-on-everest /" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron \"Corey Richards\" Overseas</a>\n\n45:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/business-news-richemont-ceos/" target=\"_blank\">Business News: CEO Changes for Cartier, Vacheron, Jaeger-LeCoultre, And Van Cleef & Arpels</a>\n\n46:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-overseas-345mm-and-a-few-thoughts-on-midsize-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas 34.5mm</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"45ce4d4b-c3bd-4949-8445-cd0618680806","container_id":13608,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e624d955-f829-4c9a-9348-5e7c8408ac5d/H-Radio-Article-Hero-020.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee seiko speedtimer","created_at":"2024-07-23T12:26:56.990-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-23T12:26:56.990-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e624d955-f829-4c9a-9348-5e7c8408ac5d/H-Radio-Article-Hero-020.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qanda-and-a-new-seiko-chronograph-with-blake-buettner-and-james-stacey","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Q&A And A New Seiko Chronograph With Blake Buettner And James Stacey","tags":["seiko","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13610,"slug":"a-vintage-inspired-omega-makes-its-olympic-return-in-bronze-gold","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"A Vintage-Inspired Omega Makes Its Olympic Return In Bronze Gold","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-24T15:00:36.039-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-24T10:40:05.438-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-24T15:01:19.657-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The BG859 is back in bronze gold for the 2024 Paris Olympics.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":39236,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/old-school-subtlety-with-the-omega-ck-859/" target=\"_blank\">The Omega CK859</a> from a couple of years ago is one of my favorite modern Omega releases. Heritage-inspired but undeniably modern, it hit all the right notes, but its production run was short (too short!). For the Paris Olympics set to begin this week, Omega has introduced its latest take on the 859, the Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition, in celebration of the Paris Olympics. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e1634e39-a257-4055-8ea1-8722d0ef8002"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like the CK859, the Bronze Gold Edition has a case measuring 39 x 11.7mm (46.2mm lug-to-lug) made of Omega's bronze gold alloy that's made of 50 percent copper, 37.5 percent gold, allowing it to be hallmarked as 9-karat gold. The \"BG859\" – BG refers to the bronze gold case, and 859 refers to the historical reference upon which the watch is based – also features a silver dial with a Clous de Paris pattern in the center and brushed outer tracks. A dark grey, vintage-inspired Omega dial sits at 12 o'clock with sub-seconds at 6 o'clock. The hands are also gold, with a PVD bronze gold coating. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4a11702c-428d-4eb8-bf6b-604325bfee02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The BG859 is powered by the manual Co-Axial caliber 8926, which is also a Master Chronometer. It's underneath a closed caseback with a stamped \"Paris 2024\" emblem. The BG 859 Bronze Gold Edition is delivered on a brown calfskin leather strap with a bronze gold buckle and will retail for $12,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"What a gorgeous dress watch! I've got a few potential qualms, but these are the heritage-inspired releases from Omega that I love. It's inspired by Omega watches dating to the 1930s that used its famous 30T manual-winding caliber. It has all kinds of thoughtful and traditional touches, but the package is fully modern. The brushed lugs and mid-case contrast with the polished bezel, and the case proportion wears nicely.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e17fc77-2a91-4570-8077-6608dd28222e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The bronze gold case combined with the silver dial is meant to pay tribute to the three medals of the Olympics, and the caseback pays additional homage to the Paris Olympics. I probably could've done without the caseback engraving – to me, this is a watch that should be more timeless than just the 2024 Olympics, and the engraving should reflect that. That said, I appreciate the more subtle Olympic tie-ins (gold, silver, bronze!) and the Clous de Paris dial. Finally, the \"Ag925\" stamp above the handstick was a bit of a bugaboo on the CK859 and remained on this one. But by now, we're certainly picking nits – the BG859 is a beautifully executed release from Omega. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["39af241b-fdb5-4124-b465-b866b03bf74d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Omega Model: Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition Reference Number: 522.92.39.21.99.001\n\nDiameter: 39mm (46.2mm lug-to-lug) Thickness: 11.7mm Case Material: Bronze Gold Dial Color: Silver Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Brown non-grained calf leather with bronze gold pin buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6f8459ae-89df-44d3-9ba7-432a6a036792"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Co-axial caliber 8926 Diameter: 29mm Power Reserve: 72 hours Winding: Manual Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour Jewels: 30 Chronometer Certified: Master Chronometer Additional Details: Closed caseback with \"Paris 2024\" stamped emblem ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $12,000 Availability: Immediate via Omega retailers and boutiques Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, check out the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-specialities-paris-2024-bronze-gold-edition-paris-2024-bronze-gold-edition-52292392199001/" target=\"_blank\">Bronze Gold Edition on Omega's site here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing The Omega Bronze Gold Edition For The 2024 Olympics","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"18625422-da88-4c93-9144-9e81be9b362d","container_id":13610,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/fdb89ea7-1f26-4b0b-a43b-9743ebdf5eb2/omega-bronze-olympics-watch.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"omega paris 2024 bronze gold edition bo859","created_at":"2024-07-24T10:40:05.646-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-24T13:56:02.075-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/fdb89ea7-1f26-4b0b-a43b-9743ebdf5eb2/omega-bronze-olympics-watch.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-inspired-omega-makes-its-olympic-return-in-bronze-gold","full_title":"Introducing: A Vintage-Inspired Omega Makes Its Olympic Return In Bronze Gold","tags":["omega","introducing","new-watches-2024"]},{"id":13596,"slug":"the-dominos-rolex-air-king-with-a-slice-of-pizza","column_slug":"buying_selling_collecting","title":"The Domino's Rolex Air-King With A Slice Of Pizza","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-22T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-16T17:59:55.304-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-22T15:01:06.679-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Now that the hype is mostly gone, it's not a bad time to grab a slice. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":27322,"public_token":"545a8dd2dc26f963ba1bd15ec15de4e1","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"A couple of weeks ago I hopped the Amtrak from Chicago to Milwaukee to meet a couple of watch dealers. While walking from the Amtrak station to the Milwaukee Public Market, I decided to pick up a Domino's pizza, not because I wanted one – though I can pretty much always go for a slice of pepperoni – but because I thought it'd pair nicely with a certain vintage Rolex. And so I walked across Milwaukee with a fresh, hot Domino's pizza in hand (choose any two or more for $6.99!).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In the 1970s, Domino's founder Tom Monaghan started giving watches as awards to high-performing franchisees of his tasty pizza chain. In his fiercely named autobiography, Pizza Tiger, Monaghan recalls that he started the tradition in 1977 after a franchisee saw a Bulova with a Domino's logo on his wrist and asked what he'd have to do to get a watch from Monaghan. Nowadays, the Domino's dial Rolex is charming because we know it's something that would never be done in 2024. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b27e8a9f-0cbc-402a-830f-22cb8e5d505c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da321a34-6f37-49b5-ab0c-f75d48ae3daa","dcc9863c-9dcd-4fc6-8a6c-726cd2c1097c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Turn in a $20,000 sales week,\" Monaghan responded. And with that, the Domino's Pizza Challenge was born. In the following years, Monaghan started giving out Seikos and then Rolex watches to franchisees who met the sales mark.\n\nThe first Domino's Rolex was the Air-King ref. 5500, the long-running reference produced from 1957 through the 1980s (and my first love in vintage Rolex), with the pizza chain's red-and-blue logo added at six o'clock. Eventually Domino's upped the challenge, requiring four consecutive weeks of $25,000 in sales, but the challenge has remained since the 1970s. It's difficult but doable, which means you can usually find a few dozen Domino's Rolex watches on the market at any given time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["578225b5-f4c3-4dca-ac92-c922c208df0c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There are a bunch of relatively common corporate dial Rolex watches: Coca-Cola, Hallmark, Winn Dixie, Pan Am, Anheuser-Busch, Chevrolet, and so on. But the Domino's Rolex got popular over the past few years, mostly for the peculiarity of this most luxurious of watchmakers being subjected to an affiliation that triggers cravings for a greasy slice best consumed while imbibing or indulging in one of life's other delicious vices. I mean, who besides a certain beleaguered former Vice President wants a Rolex with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-32/lot-229/" target=\"_blank\">a Haliburton oil dial</a>? But pizza? Everyone loves pizza.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c6f372d4-efce-4e30-bc1b-3bffb3ada09f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The first Domino's Air-King ref. 5500 had a \"big logo\" at six o'clock. In these early years, Domino's would also engrave the recipient's initials as well as \"TSM\" (for founder Thomas Steven Monaghan) on the caseback. Even the papers are made out to \"Domino's Pizza.\" It's a bonus to find a Domino's dial in a case that still has its full caseback engraving to legitimize its provenance and originality. This personalized caseback engraving later changed to an engraving of the Domino's domino.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c2e0c527-4328-48e0-ad82-bda7f0335b37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This additional proof of provenance is such a bonus because old-school dealers will tell you that, back in the day, they'd even swap these Domino's dials for standard silver dials and polish off that caseback engraving because no one wanted the logo of a crappy pizza chain on their Rolex. Slowly and then all at once, the market changed, and people not only wanted these Domino's dials, but were willing to pay a premium for them. Dealers were rummaging around in the back of every drawer for those old pizza dials, and if they found one, they'd plop it in any Air-King case they could find to print money out of thin air.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["acfc0671-a007-4286-aa5c-4c7071b6f27c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Then, as with most things, it got really weird during the pandemic. Christie's sold a couple of Domino's dials for more than $20,000 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-discovering-time/rolex-air-king-dominos-pizza-ref-14000-104/100872?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">in 2020</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-fine-watchmaking-important-timepieces-independent-collection/rolex-air-king-steel-dominos-challenge-ref-14000-2/137760?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">2021</a>. Even more traded hands privately. It wasn't uncommon to see a Domino's Rolex sell for more than $15,000 – like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-4/reference-14000-air-king-dominos-a-stainless-steel/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-air-king-ref-5500-attractive-steel-wristwatch-made-dominos-pizza-156/132489?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://loupethis.com/auctions/rolex-domino-s-air-king-14000/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In 1989, Rolex phased out the 5500 for the Air-King ref. 14000. As with other models that transitioned from four-digit to five-digit references around this time, the 14000 is mostly the same as its predecessor, but with an updated movement and sapphire crystal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["66a30342-80e6-4aa8-939f-e4955ce40215"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the first year or so of ref. 14000 production, Domino's Air-Kings also stayed the same, with a similar big logo at six o'clock.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After that, we see a brief switch to a black logo – the same big logo as before, just monochromatic. These only seem to appear for a year or so, which means it's much more rare. But let's be honest: the colorful, cheesy Domino's logo is what we want.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9fc353ed-19db-43e1-888c-043901fec14a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Realizing the error of their ways, Domino's and Rolex soon switched back to a colorful \"small logo.\" It's the same red-and-blue logo as before, shrunk down to a slightly more digestible size.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Then, in the mid-1990s, we get to the tilted logo, seen in both the ref. 14000 and the ref. 14010, the same Air-King, just with an engine-turned bezel (this is the logo seen in photos throughout this article). Despite my affection for the ref. 5500, the tilted logo is my favorite flavor, the perfect amount of playful for America's favorite pizza delivery chain. \n\nIn 2000, Rolex replaced the 14000 references with the 14000 and 14010m – same as before, just with an updated caliber 3130.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In the mid-2000s, tragedy struck. Rolex retired our beautiful baby, the Domino's dial, instead placing a steel logo on the first full bracelet link instead. It's boring and comparatively clunky compared to the bold logo on the dial that we enjoyed for all those years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9210a026-ece1-46a8-a868-d7a641a609b9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In 2014, Rolex discontinued the simple Air-King, and by the time it introduced the updated ref. 116900 in 2016, it was much too busy and confused for any Domino's logo. Instead, Domino's began giving the ref. 114200 (34mm), 116000, followed by the 126000 (36mm), to high-performing franchisees. You'll also find smaller OPs with Domino's logos.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Grab a Slice"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2e607662-19a3-4651-af18-3ba581b8f7aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Things have cooled down significantly since the days of easy money and $20,000 pizza dial watches. The last few Domino's Air-Kings to sell publicly have sold for more like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://everywatch.com/rolex/air-king/watch-1609986/" target=\"_blank\">$6,000</a> to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://everywatch.com/rolex/air-king/watch-1350760/" target=\"_blank\">$8,000</a>. For a couple of years, the spread between a standard Air-King and a Domino's dial got completely out of whack. A standard, silver ref. 5500 selling for, say, $3,000 while a Domino's dial sold for $20,000 made no sense.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But the premium is starting to make sense again, if you're into that sort of thing. It's not exactly a choose two for $6.99-level deal, but it might hit a certain craving. Either way, the Domino's Rolex is a quirky bit of history; in a modern world where brand and image are so carefully controlled and Rolex doesn't collaborate with anyone, no less a pizza chain with questionable quality (to be clear: I love Domino's and would eat it weekly if my cholesterol would allow it), it's also charming because of the bygone era it represents. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/johnswatches/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">John Krovitz</a> for letting me take photos of his Domino's Air-King ref. 14000 seen throughout.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Everything You Need To Know About The Domino's Rolex Story","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":172,"slug":"buying_selling_collecting","name":"Buying, Selling, & Collecting","description":"Original research, analysis, and perspectives to help you with buying, selling, and collecting the most important watches of today.","sort_order":1,"created_at":"2021-02-23T12:04:29.427-05:00","updated_at":"2022-09-19T22:20:46.269-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"f50d6ea6-f044-481c-868f-cba74ec80df8","container_id":13596,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/40739b9a-6bbc-470d-8508-24dfbe6aeb3b/DSC_3778.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"domino's rolex air-king","created_at":"2024-07-16T17:59:55.347-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-16T17:59:55.347-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/40739b9a-6bbc-470d-8508-24dfbe6aeb3b/DSC_3778.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-dominos-rolex-air-king-with-a-slice-of-pizza","full_title":"Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Domino's Rolex Air-King With A Slice Of Pizza","tags":["rolex","vintage-watches","rolex-air-king-dominos","buying-selling-collecting"]},{"id":13591,"slug":"our-favorite-watches-of-2024-so-far-talking-hodinkees-porsche-design-collab","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Our Favorite Watches Of 2024 So Far + Talking Hodinkee's Porsche Design Collab ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-17T13:00:21.216-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-15T17:56:46.767-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-17T13:01:14.883-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Talking the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee, and some of the best – and most overlooked – releases halfway through 2024. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":14436,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, so we're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/732d61b5-82cb-4eea-9c6c-7fe3f65aa544?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Today's episode is coming at you in two parts. In the first part, Jeff Hilliard, our director of Limited Editions, joins Ben and me to chat about limited editions and Hodinkee's recent collaboration with Porsche Design, a take on the original Chronograph 1. Founded by F.A. Porsche in 1972, Porsche Design has made a number of contributions to watches, which we also discuss.\n\nAfter that, James Stacey and Mark Kauzlarich join the show. Since we're already halfway through 2024, we decided to recap the first half of the year: Our favorite releases, overlooked watches, and the watches we've been wearing the most.\n\nThanks for listening, and enjoy the show. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"qkIqIu-zs94","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"1:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le.hodinkee.com/porsche-design-chronograph-1-limited-edition-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a>\n\n3:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/tag-heuer-skipper-limited-edition-for-hodinkee?variant=46356448655\%22 target=\"_blank\">TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a>\n\n3:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache for Hodinkee</a>\n\n16:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/hublot-classic-fusion-titanium-limited-edition-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a>\n\n17:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/zenith-el-primero-for-hodinkee?variant=30606885764\%22 target=\"_blank\">Zenith El Primero Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a>\n\n17:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mb-and-f-lm101-stainless-steel-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">MB&F LM 101 for Hodinkee</a>\n\n18:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://limited.hodinkee.com/iwc//" target=\"_blank\">IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII for Hodinkee</a>\n\n25:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-casiotron-makes-its-grand-return-50-years-after-starting-a-digital-revolution/" target=\"_blank\">The Casiotron Makes Its Grand Return 50 Years After Starting A Digital Revolution</a>\n\n28:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t-a-smaller-take-on-the-classic-doxa-design/" target=\"_blank\">The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design</a>\n\n32:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-grand-seiko-slgw002-slgw003/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko's New SLGW002 And SLGW003 'White Birch' With A Brand-New Manual Hi-Beat Movement</a> \n\n33:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/wotw-white-omega-speedmaster/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster with white lacquer dial</a>\n\n35:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-58-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT</a>\n\n38:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-momentum-udt-eclipse-synch-solar-a-modern-day-chronosport-udt/" target=\"_blank\">The Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar – A Modern-Day Chronosport UDT</a>\n\n40:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-sets-a-new-record-again-for-the-worlds-thinnest-watch-with-the-new-octo-finissimo-ultra/" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra</a>\n\n43:24: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition</a>\n\n44:36: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne Makes The First Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon In Honeygold – And It's A 'Lumen'</a>\n\n47:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.singerdivetrack.com//" target=\"_blank\">Singer Divetrack</a>\n\n53:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-shocks-us-all-with-the-new-black-bay-chrono-pink/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono 'Pink'</a>\n\n54:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/did-raymond-weil-really-make-a-watch-for-watch-enthusiasts/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Did Raymond Weil Really Make A Watch For Watch Enthusiasts?</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Editors Choose Their Favorite Watches of 2024 So Far","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"c25bdf7d-bdcb-4279-9311-23ca846e27e5","container_id":13591,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6d9586d5-d587-45d4-ae9d-6b0783679e49/H-Radio-Article-Hero-0191.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"porsche design hodinkee collaboration","created_at":"2024-07-15T17:56:46.838-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-16T16:55:16.551-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6d9586d5-d587-45d4-ae9d-6b0783679e49/H-Radio-Article-Hero-0191.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-favorite-watches-of-2024-so-far-talking-hodinkees-porsche-design-collab","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Our Favorite Watches Of 2024 So Far + Talking Hodinkee's Porsche Design Collab ","tags":["porsche-design","podcast","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13589,"slug":"the-latest-seiko-prospex-speedtimer-solar-chronograph-kind-of-references-a-space-age-icon","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph (Kind Of) References A Space-Age Icon","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-16T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-15T15:20:08.767-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-16T15:59:54.464-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"It might have the Pogue's colors, but it's no Pogue. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":53017,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"One word is notably absent from Seiko's latest Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph, but it also can't be escaped: \"Pogue.\" On its surface, the new SSC947 is just an addition to the existing Prospex Speedtimer lineup with a different red-and-blue bezel and yellow dial. But we know there's more to the story. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13db60bf-ac85-40b2-a3db-5331c254fe3d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Astronaut Colonel William Pogue wore a yellow-dial Seiko ref. 6139 on his Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. Because of this, it's become one of the most collectible vintage Seikos and also something enthusiasts are always demanding a reissue of. The defining features of the \"Pogue\" are the red-blue bezel and vibrant yellow dial (for real nerds, Colonel Pogue wore a 6139-005 \"Resist\" model). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["27114181-8938-4b88-98df-89d9ebca29cc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In its release materials for the SSC947, Seiko has made no reference to this history; that's probably because, beyond the colors, this Speedtimer has very little in common with the original Pogue. It measures 41.4 x 13.3mm (46mm lug-to-lug) and is water resistant to 100 meters. Unlike the original's automatic movement, it uses Seiko's solar-powered quartz chronograph caliber V192. The Seiko V192 is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and, on a full charge, can run for six months. Using this movement also means the SSC947 has that funky dial layout, with a 24-hour subdial at 3 o'clock, a 4:30 date window, and dark subdials to contrast against the bright yellow dial. All this makes it different from the original Pogue. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Prospex Speedtimer SSC947 will be available in August with a retail price of $700. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Seiko introduced the solar Speedtimer in late 2021, and it's a pretty good modern watch, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-solar-speedtimer-is-the-seiko-we-should-all-be-talking-about/" target=\"_blank\">as we've covered before</a>. But it's certainly no Pogue. In a list that was compiled before my time but surely must've been one of the most contentious meetings ever held at Hodinkee, we once called the Pogue <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/our-10-favorite-seikos-of-all-time/" target=\"_blank\">our third favorite Seiko of all time</a>. One of the first automatic chronographs, and it went to space? Throw in a funky '70s design, and it's essential Seiko.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["52a764ee-bf0d-4ccc-ab17-fce6fe290da6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph makes an oblique reference to the Pogue with its colorway but not much else. The dial layout is completely different. So is the solar movement inside. It's a modern Speedtimer chronograph in a Pogue \"colorway,\" and nothing more. Certainly not the reissue some enthusiasts have been clamoring for for years (don't hold your breath). The Speedtimer platform is a modern, solar-powered chronograph, so it wouldn't make sense as the home of a reissue anyway. That said, it's a solid, well-executed watch, and the Pogue colorway is nicely done. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"One of my favorite Seiko releases last year <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-newest-retro-cool-seiko-5-is-everything-the-seiko-5-should-be/" target=\"_blank\">was the Seiko SRPK17</a>, a limited edition that was a pretty faithful reissue of the original three-hand Seiko 5. This year, Seiko built on the SRPK17 with its Heritage Design limited editions. I love these vintage-inspired releases from Seiko; I recognize they can't (and shouldn't) make up the brand's entire collection, but it's a nice counterpoint to the modern Seiko 5 Sports collection. I'd love to see them do something similar and heritage-inspired with its chronographs. Sure, some of the Speedtimers have some vintage inspiration or styling, but why not go all the way? \n\nUntil then, the SSC947 is a solid addition to the Speedtimer lineup in \"Pogue colors\" – but don't call it a Pogue. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Seiko Model: Prospex Speedtimer Reference Number: SSC947\n\nDiameter: 41.4mm (46mm lug-to-lug) Thickness: 13.3mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Yellow Indexes: Applied Lume: LumiBrite Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp and push-button release","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Seiko V192 Functions: Solar-powered quartz chronograph movement Power Reserve: Operates for approximately six months on full charge Frequency: +/- 14 seconds per month","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $700 Availability: August via Seiko retailers Limited Edition: No","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"The Hodinkee Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Seiko watches. You can check out the shop collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/watches?refinementList%5Bnamed_tags.brand_name%5D%5B0%5D=Seiko&page=1&sort=latest\%22 target=\"\">here</a>. For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/ssc947/" target=\"\">check out the SSC947 on Seiko Watches</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"0d70e2a0-d8cf-49b1-83c3-647482223809","container_id":13589,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a99b4d67-d95f-4276-8816-1d682e1a8f9e/seikopogue6139.webp","width":1600,"height":900,"format":"webp","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph","created_at":"2024-07-15T15:20:08.913-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-16T08:13:17.162-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a99b4d67-d95f-4276-8816-1d682e1a8f9e/seikopogue6139.webp?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-latest-seiko-prospex-speedtimer-solar-chronograph-kind-of-references-a-space-age-icon","full_title":"Introducing: The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph (Kind Of) References A Space-Age Icon","tags":["seiko","introducing","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":13577,"slug":"new-watches-from-merci-x-tracksmith-and-maurice-de-mauriac-x-racquet","column_slug":"the_sports_section","title":"New Collabs From Merci x Tracksmith And Maurice De Mauriac x Racquet Offer A Different Kind Of 'Sports Watch'","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-12T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-09T11:40:34.385-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-12T15:05:33.436-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Two new tennis and running-themed watches bring good design and a bit of fun to the \"sports watch.\"","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":25105,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"A couple of recent collaborations centered around Wimbledon and the upcoming Paris Olympics take a more playful approach to the idea of a staid \"sports watch.\" Both use a similar tact: they take vintage-inspired references but spin them forward, all with subtle hints to the sports that inspired the design.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's a different kind of \"sports watch\" than the legion of stainless steel, black dial watches we most associate with the form, and they don't demand to be taken so seriously. Let's look at the fun collabs from Maurice de Mauriac and Merci.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Maurice de Mauriac x Racquet Rallymaster III"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6f9eecd5-b2e7-4be7-aa70-70e7d0d00a27"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Swiss brand Maurice de Mauriac and tennis magazine Racquet are playing doubles again with the Rallymaster III, the third edition of their tennis-inspired collaboration. While <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rallymaster-watch-racquet-mag-maurice-de-mauriac/" target=\"_blank\">the first Rallymaster</a> played off the red clay courts of the French Open at Roland Garros and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tennis-themed-rallymaster-ii-arrives-ahead-of-the-us-open-in-new-york-city/" target=\"_blank\">last year's Rallymaster II</a> on the blue hardcourts of the U.S. Open, this year's effort features an olive-green dial meant to evoke the lawns of the grass court season that culminates with the Wimbledon finals this weekend.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Racquet is a trendy tennis-focused quarterly print magazine that's gained fans for its focus on storytelling and tennis culture. The Rallymaster III measures 39 x 12mm (47mm lug-to-lug) and is powered by the Landeron 24, an automatic movement that's a clone of the ETA 2824-2. (The modern Landeron company isn't related to the historic maker of Swiss chronograph movements you might know.)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["442cf500-d6cf-450d-b0f4-f4ace3218cb0","37d941bb-7865-45b3-874c-9034af15632a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Maurice de Mauriac and Racquet have tapped L.A. designer Carlton DeWoody for each edition of the Rallymaster. DeWoody's a real vintage watch nerd and drew inspiration from all kinds of vintage watches for the Rallymaster III.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"To make sure this watch wasn't just a 'theme watch,' I sought to mine various other sources of reference besides tennis itself,\" DeWoody told me over direct message. Obviously, there's a net on the dial, but he says he actually got the inspiration for that from an exotic racing dial he saw on a LIP (check out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lip-paul-newman-chronograph-investigation/" target=\"_blank\">this article</a> to see what he's talking about).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Another racing motif is in the tension ring, inspired by \"rally\" rehauts seen on some chronographs – also a cheeky reference to the watch's tennis-inspired name. He said the other source of inspiration was colorful yachting subdials like the Heuer Autavia Skipper, Gallet Multichron Yachting, and others that he has stashed in his personal collection.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9a9a4827-a8f1-4a4b-9a52-9dcd844b22d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Rallymaster III is more dressed up than the previous two, with a 3N gold crown and additional gold accents on the dial. It's a thoughtful update to the previous editions. It clearly makes reference to the All England Club's grass courts, but it's subtle enough so as to not feel trite (or to raise the eyebrow of a pesky Wimbledon lawyer). Especially since most watches associated with tennis are five (Rolex) or six (Richard Mille) figures, the Rallymaster III is a fun and more accessible option, though the $2,400 is $400 higher than the previous two Rallymasters, surely due to the gold crown. It's limited to 100 pieces.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Even the signature on the bottom is a playful tennis reference: \"Swiss Made With Love.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Maurice de Mauriac x Racquet Rallymaster III has a 39 x 12mm (47mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case with a screw-in gold crown. Sapphire caseback, water resistant to 100 meters. Green dial with applied \"tennis ball\" indices and Super-LumiNova. The Rallymaster III is powered by the automatic Landeron 24 movement with 40-hour power reserve beating at 4 Hz. Delivered on a tan calf leather strap and an additional two-piece \"textile flex\" strap. Limited edition of 100 pieces, pre-orders opened on July 2. Price: $2,400. Available at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://mdm-watches.com//" target=\"_blank\">mdm-watches.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tracksmith Timepiece In Collaboration With Merci Paris"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["921ef2cb-f851-4858-8b00-028e54da9e5e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Just across the English Channel from Wimbledon, running brand Tracksmith has collaborated with Merci Paris on a limited edition LMM-01. The Tracksmith Timepiece features a navy blue dial with Breguet numerals and a bold red seconds hand. Of course the Breguet numerals are a vintage touch, but the red seconds hand also feels like a reference to the stopwatches that would've been used to precisely time races back in the day (like the ones Tracksmith sold in collaboration <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-wind-teams-up-with-tracksmith-for-vintage-stopwatch-collection/" target=\"_blank\">with Wind Vintage in 2021</a>). Like Maurice de Mauriac working with DeWoody, Tracksmith and Merci tapped vintage dealer Eric Wind for his input, so surely he's partially to thank for these thoughtful vintage touches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["584e1fb2-4b03-4374-a269-e6c8babfb66d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Tracksmith Timepiece measures 38 x 12mm (47mm lug-to-lug). I wear my Merci LMM-H01 all the time, and it's an absolute joy on the wrist. It goes with almost any strap and you can throw it on a bracelet to draw out its vintage vibes. This version is delivered on a tan calfskin leather strap. I even enjoy winding the manual-wind Sellita SW 210 movement every day – you might as well lean into the vintage aesthetic and wind your watch every morning like our grandparents had to.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Tracksmith Timepiece is limited to just 100 pieces with a few available at the Tracksmith x Merci Paris pop-up beginning today and the rest available on Tracksmith's website on July 15 at 10 a.m. ET. It'll cost $700, just a small premium over a standard Merci LMM-01.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e1934306-7480-4ff4-ba7d-8043389daae7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Tracksmith Timepiece, created in collaboration with Merci Paris and curated by Wind Vintage, is a limited edition of 100 pieces. The stainless steel case measures 38 x 12mm (47mm lug-to-lug). It uses the manual Sellita SW 210-1 caliber with 42-hour power reserve beating at 4 Hz. Navy blue dial with applied Breguet numerals. Delivered on a calfskin leather strap. Availability beginning July 12 at the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tracksmith.com/journal/article/see-you-in-paris-tracksmith-at-the-olympics/" target=\"_blank\">Tracksmith x Merci Shop pop up</a> in Paris, with the rest available online at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tracksmith.com//" target=\"_blank\">tracksmith.com</a> on July 15. Price: $700.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Good Sport "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Whether you're a tennis player or a runner or you just enjoy good watch design, it's fun to see a couple watches like the Rallymaster III and the Tracksmith Timepiece. It's cliche to mention that time is a critical element in every sport, so I like that these younger brands aren't taking this idea too seriously. The Rallymaster III is bright and colorful and manages to make reference to the All England Club and beautiful vintage chronographs in one fell swoop.\n\nMeanwhile, the Tracksmith Timepiece does the same, making reference to vintage stopwatches and Calatravas in a way that feels natural. Bonus points for its (relative) affordability.\n\nBoth limited editions allow those passionate about tennis or running to mix that passion with (perhaps) their passion for watches. Or, it allows them to express that hobby in a cool new way, and that's just fun.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":167,"slug":"the_sports_section","name":"The Sports Section","description":"Where time, watches, and the sporting life meet up.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2021-01-12T16:44:31.735-05:00","updated_at":"2021-01-12T16:44:31.735-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"b5200267-bf1f-432d-9633-48b8f19d61ab","container_id":13577,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/388f0dad-cb57-4de1-8674-e9e1ddb9d8de/16x9forHSite10.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"new sports watches from merci and maurice de maruiac","created_at":"2024-07-09T11:40:34.438-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-12T08:53:41.240-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/388f0dad-cb57-4de1-8674-e9e1ddb9d8de/16x9forHSite10.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-watches-from-merci-x-tracksmith-and-maurice-de-mauriac-x-racquet","full_title":"The Sports Section: New Collabs From Merci x Tracksmith And Maurice De Mauriac x Racquet Offer A Different Kind Of 'Sports Watch'","tags":["maurice-de-mauriac","introducing","merci"]},{"id":13578,"slug":"is-it-okay-that-a-vintage-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-just-sold-for-dollar1-million-at-some-ra","column_slug":"vintage_watches","title":"A Vintage Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Just Sold For $1 Million At A Small Auction; Here's What It Means","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-11T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-09T12:27:29.068-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-11T15:37:50.806-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The good and the potentially bad when anyone can bid on anything, anywhere. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":18986,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"One million dollars is such a ridiculous amount of money to pay for a watch. Any watch. The clean, round number has always fascinated me; a while back, I wrote about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-makes-for-a-million-dollar-watch-at-auction-today/" target=\"_blank\">what makes for a million-dollar watch at auction today.</a> The truth is that all kinds of watches can sell for a million bucks. But one factor has remained pretty constant: The watch typically had to appear at one of the biggest auction houses.\n\nNot anymore, apparently. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8f451f3f-6b70-4bfd-b049-e69a1ada8b73"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Last week – on July 4th, no less – a Patek Philippe ref. 2497 perpetual calendar <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.subastassegre.es/en/lot/00000164-2323-2323/2517-44-lote-2517-patek-philippe-calendario-perpetuo-fases-lunares-y-segundero-al-centro-ref-2497-de-caball/" target=\"_blank\">sold at a small auction house in Madrid for $1.15 million</a> (€1.06 million all-in). The pink gold Patek is just the seventh known of its kind, and proves what dealers and collectors have long known to be true: There are very few secrets in the world of vintage Patek or Rolex today. And that wasn't even the only result that had people pausing between hot dog bites last week. In the same sale, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.subastassegre.es/en/lot/00000164-2323-2323/2516-44-lote-2516brpatek-philippe-con-caja-en-oro-rosa-de-18-k-y-brazalete-de-joyero-en-oro-rosa-de-18-k/" target=\"_blank\">a pink gold Calatrava 96 sold for $89,000</a> (€82,500), probably a record for a pink gold 96. Across the continent, a Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 Paul Newman sold for $293,700 at a small auction outside Paris a few days earlier. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The trio of big results got my head spinning. As Vince Lombardi <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://youtu.be/sE1ZewBB8Jc?si=t1diJMrIwUaACxVZ&t=31\%22 target=\"_blank\">might say</a>, \"What the hell is going on out there?\" And was this really a million-dollar Patek?\n\nIn many ways, it's the story of what's happened to everything, everywhere: technology has made the entire world instantly connected to everything. But the specifics are where it gets more interesting.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Any semi-serious dealer is checking and getting daily notifications from a handful of platforms that aggregate auctions across the globe. And you can rest assured they've all got a saved search that's simply \"Patek\" (and common misspellings thereof if they're really savvy). These online aggregators make it pretty easy for anyone with a phone and half a brain to rummage around the corners of even the most obscure of auction houses. Instead of finding, then, it's evaluating these watches for condition, originality, and rarity that becomes most important.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["825886fa-04be-4df8-b71e-db5cf9476ce1","a9d2bd66-03a5-405c-a97d-4c9b1470300e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"These pieces, especially from Patek, rarely go under the radar,\" vintage dealer Ignacio Coll of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://anciennewatches.com//" target=\"_blank\">Ancienne Watches in Barcelona</a> told me. I reached out to Coll because he <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/reel/C9FDcbJNFFo//" target=\"_blank\">posted a video</a> where he traveled to Madrid to inspect and bid on both the million-dollar ref. 2497 and the 96.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"According to the auction house, the 2497 perpetual calendar came from the original owner's family via a woman who inherited it from her husband, who owned a jewelry shop.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This wasn't just any 2497, but a first series in pink gold – most easily distinguished by its alternating Arabic numerals and Vichet case – just the seventh known. Last year, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-patek-perpetual-calendar-is-already-an-important-watch-the-story-of-its-former-owner-makes-it-e/" target=\"_blank\">I wrote about</a> Peter Knoll's pink gold 2497, which eventually sold for about $1.5 million. So we already know to expect big results for a 2497, especially a rare version like this.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7961b060-4983-4d6c-9c43-cbbcda8eea62","680cbf2d-fa0d-4e55-8527-7bfe1cd3c364"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As for the condition, the watch had been serviced by Patek some years ago, which the owner also confirmed. The first tell is the service crown. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial is original, and Coll said that in his opinion, it had been sympathetically cleaned.\n\n\"The dial was still very nice though, and the market will accept this condition, especially for such a rare watch.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"He said that while the enamel signature showed signs of cleaning, the calendar windows still had sharp angles. The case was also in good condition – while it's probably been polished, it still has its original angles and edges, most notably on the stepped lugs.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"There was a lot of interest in the lot – about 12 phone bidders in addition to the written and advance bids. Of course, bidding also started at €30,000, so a few people probably thought they'd steal the watch for a hundred grand or so. No such luck!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The pace of bidding slowed at around €700,000 and two phone bidders went back and forth until hammering at €900,000, with an 18 percent buyer's premium bringing the all-in price to €1.06 million (plus VAT if you should be so lucky). The result isn't out of line with the market for a watch like this – especially with just two bidders chasing it at the end, it's not really a question of the \"market,\" but how bad those two individuals want it on that particular day. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a8938321-6a61-437d-a204-aa5070035fdc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Next, I asked Coll about the pink-on-pink Patek ref. 96 with Breguet numerals that sold for €82,500 just a few minutes later. A watch like this – pink gold case with matching pink dial, Breguet numerals, and early long signature – can make even the most hardened of souls believe in the divine again.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"That watch was so nice,\" Coll said, noticeably more excited. \"The dial had never been touched.\" The case was a little soft and had been polished but still had deep hallmarks. He pointed in particular to a hallmark on the top left lug, which is normally a Portuguese import hallmark.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad4e8e15-26f9-48ea-9894-beeaf6e62210"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the end, bidding for the ref. 96 was almost as fierce as for the 2497, with it selling for what I think is the highest price for a pink gold 96. Just last week we talked all about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-calatrava-episode-with-ben-and-rich/" target=\"_blank\">the Calatrava on Hodinkee Radio</a>, and the consensus between Ben, Rich, and me seemed to be: yeah, they're small, but a special 96 (like this one) is truly something special.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"When watches like this appear at a small auction house, especially in a corner of the world not known for vintage watch collecting (Spain, in this case), it can even have a positive effect on the outcome.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f62ce0a-fd72-4202-a2f6-972e83237e35","32fead7b-7c8e-4ecd-825f-b38d0bba6251"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Collectors and dealers quickly feel that the watch is coming from an original owner,\" Coll said. \"It's pure, it's honest, and if it's nice, people are excited to go for it.\" In this case, the auction house was Segre Madrid – far from the Geneva offices of the three or four big auction houses where you know every other collector is also combing through the biannual watch catalogs. You might get the feeling that you're the only one seeing the watch or bidding and get caught up in the moment, bidding higher than you first planned to. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Even I was bidding higher than I'd initially planned,\" Coll admitted. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Auction aggregators have allowed even the smallest of houses to find bidders around the world. Meanwhile, bidders feel more empowered by their access to auctions, watches, and information. Everything has been democratized. While this is mostly good, there are also potential downsides. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While even small houses might consign special vintage watches, they usually aren't watch experts, instead content to let the market do its work and collect their buyer's premium on the sale. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fbe96e6e-7de8-4d15-844b-34177458cfce","d90db87d-865c-4d53-8e26-4abe79862e69"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"To take one final example: Just two days before that small auction in Madrid, another small house outside of Paris <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.aguttes.com/en/lot/150683/25835745-rolexrolex-daytona-known-as-pa?search=&sort=adjDesc&\%22 target=\"_blank\">sold a Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 with a \"Paul Newman\" dial for $293,700</a>.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Alessandro, another vintage dealer, traveled to Paris to see the watch in person. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C9CNnq0tXHa/?img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">He later wrote</a> that, while the watch was in honest condition it had a few issues that (in his opinion) made it such that \"the final price no longer matched the true value of the piece.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"I am not really sure the buyer had inspected the watch, because as nice as it can be in pictures, in person under a loupe is a different story,\" he added.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Coll said the same to me about the 2497; while the dial presented nicely in person, it looked cleaner in the auction house's online photos.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Internet, and auction aggregators specifically, have made watches and information accessible to anyone, and this is mostly a good thing. To be clear, there are also still deals to be, but it just gets harder every day, and they don't usually say \"Patek\" or \"Rolex\" on the dial. But, there's still expertise and an art to inspecting and evaluating these watches, and it often needs to be done in person. It's important to know what you don't know. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After talking to Coll about the ref. 2497 and 96 for just 30 minutes, I picked up a number of things I hadn't gotten from online photos: Portuguese import hallmarks; a sympathetically cleaned but original dial; and the pure excitement in his voice from handling the pink-on-pink 96.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"These are the little details that aggregators can never pick up, and that continue to make hunting and talking about vintage watches fun.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to Ignacio Coll of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ancienne.es/en//" target=\"_blank\">Ancienne Watches</a> for sharing his expert opinion and images of the Patek 2497 and 96. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Vintage Patek Philippe 2497 Perpetual Calendar Sells for $1 Million","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":49,"slug":"vintage_watches","name":"Vintage Watches","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2017-11-10T15:59:35.311-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T17:00:13.660-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"0d0493fe-8528-4e25-8eac-ec9ee32f91c1","container_id":13578,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c3c32be1-81fa-4e9c-a764-970b8632841a/Frame3.png","width":3840,"height":2160,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"patek 2497 perpetual calendar watch","created_at":"2024-07-09T12:27:29.115-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-11T12:39:50.460-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c3c32be1-81fa-4e9c-a764-970b8632841a/Frame3.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/is-it-okay-that-a-vintage-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-just-sold-for-dollar1-million-at-some-ra","full_title":"Vintage Watches: A Vintage Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Just Sold For $1 Million At A Small Auction; Here's What It Means","tags":["rolex","patek-philippe","vintage-watches"]},{"id":13580,"slug":"the-patek-philippe-calatrava-episode-with-ben-and-rich","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"The Patek Philippe Calatrava Episode With Ben And Rich","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-10T13:00:04.507-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-09T17:12:17.537-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-10T13:01:19.543-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Getting nerdy about the Patek Calatrava – its history, our favorites, and some overlooked references. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13630,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, so we're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/637901ba-bc59-4929-a634-efea98a90c32?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Today: the vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava episode. Introduced in 1932, though it wouldn't be called the \"Calatrava\" until years later, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is perhaps the most iconic watch ever, laying the blueprint for the modern dress watch. It was also introduced at a pivotal time in the history of Patek Philippe, just after it had been acquired by the Stern family. After the acquisition, the Stern brothers hired Jean Pfister, a technical master who would lead the development of the first serially produced complications that defined so much of Patek's collection during the mid-20th century. But first came the Calatrava ref. 96, Patek's first serially-produced reference. \n\nI called founder Ben Clymer and client advisor Rich Fordon to discuss the Patek Calatrava. We start by asking: what even is a \"Calatrava,\" and what isn't? Then, we jump through the history of the line, from the original reference 96 through the golden era of the refs. 570, 565, 2508, and others (depending on your definition of \"Calatrava\") through the hobnail ref. 3919 and then the rebirth of the traditional Calatrava in the 1980s and '90s. We also take a look at a few of our favorite overlooked Calatrava references, as well as the most expensive ones to ever sell at auction. \n\nIn the show notes below, I've tried to include a link to each reference we mention to help you follow along with our discussion. Thanks as always for listening – let us know if you liked this model-focused discussion, and if so, what model you'd like to hear us discuss next. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"ZflJPSJymsU","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"3:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/" target=\"_blank\">The Calatrava collection on Patek's website</a>\n\n5:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rare-unusual-patek-calatrava/" target=\"_blank\">A Visual Guide to Rare Patek Philippe Calatravas</a> (A Collected Man)\n\n5:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2951-patek-3919-tiffany?variant=39529616441419\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 3919</a> (Hodinkee Shop)\n\n11:54: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-mini-royal-oak /" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oaks</a>\n\n13:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-96-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with?locale=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">Steel Patek Calatrava ref. 96 with sector dial at Sotheby's</a>\n\n16:36: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/imperial-patek-philippe-last-emperor-of-china-auction/" target=\"_blank\">The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million</a>\n\n17:22: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-565-breguet-dial-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">The Patek Ref. 565 With Breguet Dial For Sale At Phillips</a>\n\n17:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1960s-patek-philippe-reference-570?variant=36416965519\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek ref. 570 in yellow gold</a> (Hodinkee Shop)\n\n18:24: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/patek-philippe-vintage-570-10-21-ptk-fb3t94/" target=\"_blank\">White gold Patek ref. 570</a> (Hodinkee Shop)\n\n21:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-alfredo-paramico/" target=\"_blank\">Alfredo Paramico Talking Watches</a>, featuring his three two-tone dial 570s\n\n24:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-calatrava-ref-2509j//" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 2509</a>\n\n28:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to/" target=\"_blank\">The Patek Philippe 2526, And Why It's A Watch To Pay Attention To</a>\n\n34:52: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-ruby/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II With Ruby Indices, Limited To Ten Pieces</a>\n\n40:26: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/67&sa=D&source=docs&ust=1720562805640248&usg=AOvVaw0DMWN5C0sPGHn5BS4rvm16\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek 2577 with enamel dial at Phillips</a>\n\n42:28: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/recapping-the-geneva-watch-auction-three-sale-at-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Patek ref. 530 with black dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 1.4 million</a>\n\n43:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/160/" target=\"_blank\">Patek ref. 570 with two-tone dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 3.3 million</a> (most expensive Calatrava sold at auction)\n\n47:26: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1988-patek-philippe-calatrava-reference-3796?variant=32986813661259\%22 target=\"_blank\">Patek ref. 3796</a> (Hodinkee Shop)\n\n51:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://mrwatchley.com/products/patek-philippe-calatrava-3923r-150-years-of-harrods-limited-to-35-pieces/" target=\"_blank\">Patek ref. 3923 for Harrod's 150th anniversary</a> (Mr. Watchley)\n\n52:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-andy-warhols-patek-philippe-ref-2526 /" target=\"_blank\">Andy Warhol's Patek 2526 with Breguet numerals</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Everything You Need To Know About the Vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e9802966-f2ad-4dbe-b860-77902527f3a2","container_id":13580,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/d374f209-99da-463a-b2cd-78fa100758fc/H-Radio-Article-Hero-019.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"patek calatrava","created_at":"2024-07-09T17:12:17.602-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-10T12:27:08.284-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/d374f209-99da-463a-b2cd-78fa100758fc/H-Radio-Article-Hero-019.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-calatrava-episode-with-ben-and-rich","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Episode With Ben And Rich","tags":["patek-philippe","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13574,"slug":"monta-adds-a-gmt-with-the-noble-voyager","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Monta Adds A GMT With The Noble Voyager","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-09T09:00:21.725-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-08T15:38:03.107-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-09T09:01:38.115-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A compact and elegant \"caller\" GMT. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":12486,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"St. Louis-based Monta's latest release is the Noble Voyager, an extension of an existing collection that adds a GMT complication. The Noble Voyager adds a GMT while managing to maintain the elegant look and compact dimensions that have made the Noble a mainstay in its collection. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["acfe858c-0ec9-4040-ab8b-40ca2ed6375e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Noble Voyager adds a \"caller\" GMT with an independently-adjustable 24-hour hand. The hand is skeletonized and tipped with Super-LumiNova and shows an additional timezone along with the 24-hour scale on the outer edge of the dial. The polished markers and hands also have Super-LumiNova, and the date window sits at 6 o'clock. Monta is offering the Noble Voyager with either a sunray dégradé blue or green dial. The dimensions are 38.5 x 10.7mm (47mm lug-to-lug), and with 150 meters of water resistance – this makes it just one millimeter thicker than the three-hand Noble. The Noble Voyager is delivered on a brushed steel bracelet. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d0383c85-92fa-4039-ab69-07def61dfa65","fbdd0d8c-8a97-44ce-a549-61afa3c6625b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Monta Noble Voyager has a pre-order price of $2,150 with deliveries slated for August delivery. If you skip the pre-order and want to get one at a later date, the full retail price will be $2,395.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Monta is using the Sellita SW 330-2 inside the Noble Voyager, which means it's a caller GMT. As we discussed on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-about-our-favorite-gmt-watches-from-tudor-longines-and-more/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio recently</a>, there's been a boom in GMTs over the past couple of years, and the Noble Voyager joins a suddenly crowded market. And with more brands offering affordable – or at least accessible – flyer GMTs, it might make Monta's new GMT a bit of a tougher sell. But that doesn't change the fact that it's a good-looking and well-executed effort.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b494371b-589e-41fc-ac2e-ac4fd5198708"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I've always been impressed by the quality of Monta's fit and finish, especially at the brand's price point. I'd expect the same of the new Noble Voyager, if only because it fits right in with the existing model lineup, and Monta says its tolerances have gotten even tighter. The GMT hand is subtle and skeletonized, presumably to keep the focus on the dial. I'm not quite sold on the 24-hour scale numerals and how they sit closer to the center of the dial, but I'm excited to get hands-on with these at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/meet-with-hodinkee-insurance-at-windup-chicago-next-weekend/" target=\"_blank\">Windup Chicago this weekend</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2191afad-dbbe-49c2-be6a-ef187961f432"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Monta Model: Noble Voyager GMT Reference Number: 71DB00SP and 71GN00SP\n\nDiameter: 38.5mm Thickness: 10.7mm Case Material: 316L stainless steel Dial Color: Blue or green sunburst Indexes: Applied Lume: Super-LumiNova (BGW9) Water Resistance: 150 meters Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel with quick-adjust and deployant clasp ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d0df512b-fe47-4385-b76c-73875c96a4c8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Monta caliber M-23 (Sellita SW-330-2) Functions: GMT (\"caller\") Diameter: 26.2mm Thickness: 4.1mm Power Reserve: 56 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz Jewels: 25","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $2,150 pre-order; $2,395 full retail Availability: Pre-order for August 2024 delivery Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://montawatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">Monta Watch</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The New Monta Noble Voyager GMT","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":25065,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Made in China\" is as loaded a phrase as any, but just as important as where the Pastorale II is made is who made it: independent watchmaker Qin Gan. Qin is a 55-year-old watchmaker based in Chongqing, the largest municipal area in China. After making his international debut with the Pastorale in 2021, Qin has refined the design, upgraded the movement finishing, and added a gold case. The result is the Pastorale II, an elegant dress watch that, in terms of craftsmanship, makes a statement about what independent watchmaking in China can be.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8ba86427-a8c3-4254-aa8b-fede2df3bd55"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Qin's father owned a watch and clock repair shop in Chongqing, so he was born into watchmaking, and this is where he first began to learn his skills as a watchmaker. While he would go on to first pursue a career as a designer, he continued to explore watchmaking, completing his first watch, featuring a dragonfly automaton, in 2014.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"From there, he joined Poly Hong Kong, a large Asian auction house, as a restorer. A few years later, he left the auction house and soon after completed his second watch, featuring a striking mechanism. Qin continued to produce other complicated prototype pieces (flyback chronograph, tourbillon, repeater), some even featuring miniature paintings on the dial. However, Qin felt these watches weren't suitable for the tastes of the rest of the world, so he got to work on designing and crafting an elegant, modern dress watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["97f407e3-a536-4034-8563-e8f55404c9aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The first Pastorale, introduced in 2021, was a simple, steel, time-only watch that was finished by hand. It was well-received and, at $9,000, even a compelling value proposition.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Three years later, the Pastorale II updated the original Pastorale to make the dial, case, and movement more refined. This all comes at a healthy price increase – the Pastorale II costs $46,000. But it now features a gold case and dial, along with a movement that showcases more of Qin's hand finishing. Qin says he'll only be making 15 pieces a year, and while it'll be hard for many to stomach the cost when compared to more established brands, the Pastorale II's movement, dial, and case seem well executed down to the details, and put on display Qin's talents as a craftsman.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Pastorale II uses the caliber 1810, Qin's in-house caliber based on the architecture of the vintage Longines 30L movement. As you can see, though, the movement design has been modified to display Qin's finishing techniques.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff1360d6-a7ad-4710-9549-eb08777ad25d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I spoke with Sebastian Wang, a part-time rep for Qin Gan, to better understand the Pastorale II. He explained that movement components are machined in Hong Kong, but they arrive in rough condition, and all finishing is done by Qin by hand. The bridges feature polished bevels, interior angles, gold chatons, and wide Geneva striping. The 36-hour power reserve feels a little low, and it beats at 2.5 Hz. The swan neck regulator adds another elegant touch and even the gear teeth are polished by hand.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"When Qin first began putting the finishing of his watch on social media, there was a little social media dust-up about the concave finishing of Qin's screws. They look similar to the screws in Simon Brette's Chronometre Artisans, but in reality, both make reference to antique pocket watches. Comments left by both indicate a mutual appreciation for the other's craft – cool to see that game recognize game, even when it's halfway across the world.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["257b67ba-e45a-4d21-8450-1346a3df579a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Unlike the first version, the Pastorale II features an 18-kt white or rose gold case measuring 38.5 x 9.5mm. Again, the case is machined in China and arrives at Qin Gan's workshop in rough condition. Qin then goes to work hand-finishing each component – lugs, midcase, caseback, and bezel. To take an example, Wang explained to me that the bezel arrives as a flat piece of gold, and Qin slowly polishes this into the concave, polished component for the Pastorale II. The elongated lugs are chamfered and actually screwed into the midcase using the screws you see in the caseback band.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial of the Pastorale II is also a major upgrade. It's a gold base finished with enamel. The indices are then laser engraved and filled with enamel, giving them an additional dimension. The hands are heat-blued and mirror-polished by hand.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8478668a-b9e9-488b-8b80-f6242375bd3d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, the logo at 12 o'clock is Qin Gan's name in Chinese, in the style of traditional calligraphy. 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While he has some part-time support and is looking into training other watchmakers in the high-level skills it takes to produce a watch like the Pastorale II, this will take at least a couple of years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3c9e4704-e817-45de-a6b7-16e558168c7d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Speaking with the people at Qin Gan, they clearly have a goal of telling the story of Qin's watchmaking and craftsmanship to a global audience. While Qin's strength is actually in complications, the Pastorale II is meant to illustrate his understanding of fine watchmaking and that his talents can match those from any other country.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"At $46,000, it'll be a tough sell for many. But for now, Qin Gan can only make 15 pieces a year so that doesn't matter so much anyway. 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The box crystal reaches over the internal bezel, giving the Legend Diver a more refined look than the standard external rotating bezel. This also means the watch wears larger than you'd expect of a typical 39mm diver, but not in an obtrusive way. Two large crowns sit at 2 and 4 o'clock to rotate the bezel and adjust the time, respectively. As with the original EPSA cases, the crowns are cross-hatched, an enjoyable callback detail.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The case and bracelet have a mix of polished and brushed surfaces – polished lugs, thin polished bezel, brushed midcase, and alternating brushed and polished links. At first, I wasn't sure about polished lugs on a diver, but I actually like that Longines made the front-facing surfaces polished here, giving it a dressier look (or at least the option to dress it up) more than most of its diving competitors.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dbc4cd30-205f-4fcf-853a-c9e36b47ff39"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the original motivation for the internal rotating bezel was so that it couldn't get accidentally bumped during a dive, nowadays, it makes for a dive watch that feels a bit more elegant than the standard external bezel diver.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Legend Diver 39mm is a shade under 13mm thick, e.g., about the same as a Tudor Black Bay 58, but it wears thinner because of slightly downturned lugs and the thinner midcase. The closed caseback has Longines' familiar retro diver motif.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6e37b5b1-0ad6-4fbd-9381-c7cbf6b04faf","f53e8a1a-42c4-4b0d-bda1-3cfc595d38fc"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The beads-of-rice bracelet is well made, especially for the price. It tapers from 20mm at the lugs to a 16mm clasp and drapes nicely around the wrist. The retro beads-of-rice look fits the Legend Diver perfectly, and I'd recommend paying the extra 200 bucks for the bracelet instead of the strap versions. The double-trigger clasp has five micro-adjust positions – I'd love to see tool-less micro-adjust on a watch like this – but otherwise, the fit and finish of the bracelet and clasp are solid and what you'd expect for a watch at this price. I make this explicit because I feel like some brands have started to noticeably cut corners on bracelets and clasps.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial design stays mostly faithful to the second-generation original ref. 7042 – easily recognizable because of the lume lines next to the applied numerals. The cursive Automatic text is a direct reference to the original ref. 7042 and makes sense in this context.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cd7826af-74f0-4c62-9793-3ba85bd5b228"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The lume signature is good, and while you might find stronger lume on other watches, it's more than serviceable. In the dark, it's fun to discover that there are actually two different colors of Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands – green and blue.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside the Legend Diver 39mm is the brand's ETA-based L888.6, an automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve and silicon balance spring. Unlike the calibers in other Legend Divers, this caliber is COSC-certified, which certifies accuracy to -4/+6 seconds per day. It beats at 3.5 Hz and also has hacking seconds. The dial design is already busy (not a bad thing), so making the Legend Diver 39mm was smart, though I wouldn't be surprised if it added a date version down the road. 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The existing 36mm and 42mm always left a bit of a hole in the Goldilocks zone, and that's now been dutifully filled by the 39mm model.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond that, all the details about this watch are thoughtful and well-executed and seem to make clear that Longines is listening to what its most ardent enthusiasts want. No-date (like the original), 39mm diver, an exclusive COSC-certified caliber, and priced under most competitors from other large Swiss brands.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["df578a71-1c0b-45ac-a280-518bd7f7991b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I've long been a fan of the Super Compressor-style diver, and it even feels appropriate for the current moment, where at least some buyers seem less interested in traditional sports watches. No doubt, it's still a hardcore dive watch with heritage – that's part of its charm – but it does dress up more easily. 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In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/4d776d8b-73d0-4944-b82e-174b0d9a4574?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Our guest today is editor and writer Jay Fielden. Jay is a media industry vet, having spent time at The New Yorker, Vogue, and Men's Vogue before becoming editor-in-chief of Town & Country. From there, he took the same position at Esquire from 2016 to 2019. He's also contributed to Hodinkee a few times over the years.\n\nWe invited Jay on to talk more about his recent excellent piece, \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/06/24/the-strange-journey-of-john-lennons-stolen-patek-phillippe-watch/" target=\"_blank\">The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch</a>,\" which appeared in the June 24 issue of The New Yorker.\n\nIt's the most detailed account yet of the \"Lennon 2499\" that has remained mostly a mystery for decades. He traces the story, talks to the people, and even uncovers some never-before-published photos of the Patek given by Yoko Ono to Lennon for his 40th birthday, just months before he was murdered.\n\nAlso joining the conversation is our own Ben Clymer. Thanks for listening, and enjoy this week's conversation with Jay Fielden.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"S_cTmN5zCSM","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Since the main topic of this week's episode is Fielden's article in The New Yorker, it's short on show notes. Instead, below are links for further reading on the long, winding story of John Lennon's Patek 2499:\n\n<ul> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/06/24/the-strange-journey-of-john-lennons-stolen-patek-phillippe-watch/" target=\"\">The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch</a>, Fielden's story in The New Yorker\n</li> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ten-watches-were-still-looking-for/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: Twelve of the Greatest Missing Watches</a>, Hodinkee\n</li> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://gothamcity.ch/2023/09/06/la-montre-volee-de-john-lennon-retrouvee-a-geneve//" target=\"_blank\">John Lennon's Stolen Watch Found in Geneva</a>, Gotham City, the first publication to break the news that Lennon's 2499 had been the subject of an ongoing lawsuit in Geneva</li> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: The Wild, Mostly Complete Story of John Lennon's Lost Patek Philippe 2499</a>, Hodinkee, our coverage of the lawsuit where we fill in the blanks as to where Lennon's 2499 had traveled over the past two decades</li> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://justice.ge.ch/apps/decis/fr/acjc/show/3268405#ED\" target=\"_blank\">The full Geneva court decision between Yoko Ono and \"Mr. A.\"</a>, Canton of Geneva </li> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/24/nyregion/yoko-ono-john-lennon-lost-items.html/" target=\"_blank\">The Saga of Yoko Ono, Her Chauffer, and Lost Lennon Treasures</a>, N.Y. Times, covering the 86 other items of Lennon's that Karsan had stolen and which were recovered in the 2017 bankruptcy of Auctionata</li>\n</ul>\n\nAnd finally, here's one more look at the Auctionata photo of Lennon's 2499 that Fielden uncovered:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f981f6c3-5825-4011-b409-1fdb8bdda369"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Jay Fielden On John Lennon's Patek Philippe 2499","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e5db4013-8ada-40a0-8be4-23e6a5a84c19","container_id":13527,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3d96ab77-097d-4367-bd61-4ffde64901f4/H-Radio-Article-Hero-018.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"john lennon patek philippe 2499 hodinkee","created_at":"2024-07-02T17:10:03.351-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-03T09:18:22.283-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3d96ab77-097d-4367-bd61-4ffde64901f4/H-Radio-Article-Hero-018.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-story-of-john-lennons-patek-philippe-2499-with-jay-fielden","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: The Story Of John Lennon's Patek Philippe 2499 With Jay Fielden","tags":["patek-philippe","hodinkee-radio","john-lennon"]},{"id":13519,"slug":"teddy-roosevelts-long-lost-pocket-watch-comes-home","column_slug":"found","title":"Teddy Roosevelt's Long-Lost Pocket Watch Comes Home","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-01T15:00:03.314-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-28T09:32:27.261-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-01T15:01:14.081-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Stolen 37 years ago, the President's favorite Waltham pocket watch has returned to his former home. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":12940,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Teddy Roosevelt's silver pocket watch, stolen 37 years ago and missing since, has finally returned to the 26th U.S. President's former home. In <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/theodore-roosevelts-historic-pocket-watch-recovered/" target=\"_blank\">a press release</a>, the FBI confirmed that it had recovered the silver Waltham pocket watch, which it said was the former president's favorite.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a2495112-eb74-4c8a-98f0-2e652792413e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"This watch was a fairly pedestrian Waltham 17-jewel watch with an inexpensive coin silver case,\" the FBI said. It had been stolen in 1987 while on loan to a historic site in Buffalo, NY. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While it's a standard American pocket watch, it's got obvious historical significance. Based on letters written by the former president, it's said that the watch accompanied him in 1898 when he led the Rough Riders up San Juan Hill, down the Amazon River, and other battles in the Spanish-American War. It traveled with him in his pocket as New York's governor and while he was President. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4ab0c058-a5e2-4f95-91eb-ea83a633fa68"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"After it was stolen in 1987, the case went cold. Then, the Roosevelt pocket watch briefly surfaced publicly in 2023 when <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://blackwellauctions.com/rooseveltwatch//" target=\"_blank\">a small Florida auction house</a> began advertising it in an upcoming sale. While <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://bid.blackwellauctions.com/lots/view/5-JEG2S/lot-withdrawn-bids-not-accepted/" target=\"_blank\">the lot</a> was soon withdrawn, it had been given an estimate of $100,000–$200,000. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The pocket watch is engraved \"Theodore Roosevelt, From D.R. and C.R.R.\" and was a gift from Roosevelt's sister Corinne Roosevelt Robinson and his brother-in-law Douglas Robinson just before he left for Cuba to lead his Rough Riders. The watch is referenced in multiple letters between the two.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fd0f25ef-42bc-4227-a063-2258fa7ecc49"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"You could not have given me a more useful present than the watch; it was exactly what I wished... thank old Douglas [D.R.] for the watch – and for his many, many kindnesses.\" Roosevelt wrote to his sister in 1898. \n\nIn his 1914 book Through The Brazilian Wilderness, Roosevelt wrote of a river crossing, \"One result of the swim, by the way, was that my watch, a veteran of Cuba and Africa, came to an indignant halt.\" In another letter, he thanks his brother-in-law Douglas Robinson \"for sending a Waltham watch\" that he would use in battle to gage precisely his \"crowded hour\" in Cuba. \n\nWhen Roosevelt died in 1919, the watch became the property of the Sagamore National Historic Site, the place he called home for the latter portion of his life. \n\nNow that the watch has been recovered by the National Park Service with enforcement assistance from the FBI, it has returned to an exhibit at Sagamore Hill and is available for public viewing. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Teddy","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":6,"slug":"found","name":"Found","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.970-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:52:23.936-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"e588658b-d0d4-4b34-a16b-85e5acb34228","container_id":13519,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/5e5ad070-a0fb-43ad-a5d4-cde5f0777fd8/16x9forHSite9.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"teddy roosevelt found pocket watch","created_at":"2024-06-28T09:32:27.292-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-28T18:02:59.331-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/5e5ad070-a0fb-43ad-a5d4-cde5f0777fd8/16x9forHSite9.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/teddy-roosevelts-long-lost-pocket-watch-comes-home","full_title":"Found: Teddy Roosevelt's Long-Lost Pocket Watch Comes Home","tags":["waltham","found"]},{"id":13501,"slug":"the-watches-of-royal-ascot-2024","column_slug":"photo_report","title":"The Watches Of Royal Ascot 2024","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-28T17:07:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-21T15:23:23.781-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-28T20:08:22.405-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Infiltrating Britain's summer social scene to spot watches and style at its premier horse race. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":41267,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The weeklong Royal Ascot dates back at least a few hundred years, with Queen Anne first declaring the English countryside about 30 miles west of London an ideal place for \"horses to gallop at full stretch\" in 1711. By 1752, The annual Royal Ascot horse race was a full-on social scene, with the poor Duke of Bedford once arriving in London during Royal Ascot races and lamenting, \"I could find no soul to dine or sup with.\" By then, other entertainment for racegoers included cockfighting, prize-fighting, jugglers, ballad singers, ladies on stilts, and freak shows. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b6a79d6-74c0-4ed3-8aa2-fa15b0923571"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Most of these diversions are frowned upon nowadays (and freak shows are reserved for U.S. presidential debates), but British royalty, aristocracy, influencers, and interlopers like me descend on the Ascot Racecourse every June for the premier social event of the season, Royal Ascot. Some £17.5 million of prize money is doled out to thoroughbreds across five days of races. But that's only the start of the big business that is Royal Ascot – it's estimated that about £150 million is bet on the races each year. At Ascot, bookies set up beside the finish line, broadcasting their odds for each race with bright lights and louder shouts, recreating what I imagine the New York Stock Exchange must've felt like in The Wolf of Wall Street days, just with a few more top hats. \n\nEach day begins with the Royal Procession at 2 PM sharp; Queen Camilla and Prince William led the procession on the sunny day I attended. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["379a974c-1389-4c3c-899b-e299433a9f18"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There is all kinds of social stratification and classification that a brutish American like myself surely doesn't pick up on at Royal Ascot, but the most overt are the rings of \"Enclosures.\" Like Dante's rings of hell, each successive enclosure is smaller and more prestigious, with access doled out based on criteria that remained mysterious to me, though as far as I could tell it helped to have a Royal title or a corporate sponsorship. The Royal Enclosure is the smallest and most exclusive, with the Royal viewing box sitting at the literal center of it all. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As access becomes more strict, so too does the dress code. The Royal Enclosure requires a morning suit for men, something an American would only be familiar with if they've attended a Harvard Commencement or the Kennedy Inauguration (I've done neither). With men in their long coats and top hats, women are required to wear formal daywear and a hat. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["318016e7-03e4-4e43-ae8a-fb4a7fd30321","d48e18e3-1968-4c39-ab44-5a9b6581eed8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Longines has been the Offical Timekeeper of Royal Ascot for 17 years now, and this honorable sponsorship is what granted me access to even the exclusive Royal Enclosure this year – rental morning suit, ill-fitting top hat, and all. Longines' relationship with equestrian sports and horse racing dates to the late 19th century – the brand's first chronograph even featured a case decorated with a horse and jockey. With its specialty in chronographs, it makes sense to see the horses racing to a finish line with a Longines logo sitting above the large stopwatch. \n\nAs you might imagine, the watch spotting roughly tracks the perceived status of these enclosures. At the outer enclosures, I was generally met with Pimm's-induced, slurred glee when I asked unsuspecting onlookers if I could photograph their watch for a website all about watches (\"Hoodwink what?\" was the typical response). But this willingness tightens up like the dress code as you move closer to the Royal Enclosure. Two gents there kindly declined when I asked to photograph their Patek Nautilus 5990 Chronograph and Aquanaut 5164A Travel Time. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1afa2c43-a7d2-4a57-ac8d-5391adf755a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Meanwhile, my favorite watch spot of the day was an older woman wearing a Cartier Tortue on a yellow gold bracelet that must've been nearly a century old. The bracelet was worn as loose and carefree as her floral red dress while she looked so intently at a horse in the post-race parade ring that it had to be hers.\n\n\"May I take a photo of your beautiful Cartier?\" I asked as politely as an American could, with her quietly declining nearly before Cartier was out of my mouth. \n\nI wanted nothing more than to capture a pocket watch tucked neatly in a gentleman's waistcoat, but alas, no luck. Still, I captured many great watches. 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Watches And Fashion Of The Royal Ascot 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":15,"slug":"photo_report","name":"Photo Report","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles, featuring brief intros and collections of photographs from assigned photographers. Watches on wrists are a priority, but capturing the atmosphere of the event and dynamic imagery is also front-of-mind.\r\n ","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.114-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:26:03.596-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"a54397b3-b1cd-4e55-b218-89c2352b32ea","container_id":13501,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/33ae2947-7e42-4185-b55b-fd6ac8950878/DSC_2969-2.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"fashion and watches at the royal ascot ","created_at":"2024-06-21T15:23:23.813-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-21T15:23:23.813-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/33ae2947-7e42-4185-b55b-fd6ac8950878/DSC_2969-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-watches-of-royal-ascot-2024","full_title":"Photo Report: The Watches Of Royal Ascot 2024","tags":["longines","photo-report"]},{"id":13507,"slug":"a-collectors-guide-to-the-vintage-rolex-submariner-5513","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"A Collector's Guide To The Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-28T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-24T19:02:57.416-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-28T18:13:39.917-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The most classic of Submariners, and why now's a good time to pay attention to this beloved reference. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":59804,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Writing about the Rolex Submariner 5513 in 2024 is kind of like reviewing Led Zeppelin IV or Godfather II or maybe even just Oppenheimer in today's world, where culture moves faster than the flick of a thumb scroll. There's not much that hasn't been said about an exceedingly good but simple dive watch, or so it might seem. But also, sometimes it's worth remembering: \"Black Dog\" just freakin' rocks.\n\nWhich is exactly why I wanted to write about the Rolex Submariner 5513 – it just freakin' rocks.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e4a7b3f0-c0ee-4e15-a642-aeb762a5d5d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"All those \"new\" releases that are actually just different dial colors are fun to follow and sometimes actually exciting. But now – especially now – when the market is slower and complaints about price hikes are taken for granted, like an Oscar nomination for Coppola or Nolan (except Megalopolis – please no), there's something exceedingly appealing about one of the longest-running divers ever.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"A decade ago, one John Mayer <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/john-mayer-on-the-five-best-buys-in-vintage-rolex-for-8000-o/" target=\"_blank\">called the 5513</a> one of his \"best buys\" in vintage Rolex for under $8,000. Since then, the market has gone up and back down like a Mayer guitar riff, which has even made me feel like it might be a \"best buy\" again, relatively speaking, as always. We'll get to the market of it all towards the end – mostly, I want this to be about the 5513 and not the acquisition of said watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A Quick Refresher On The Rolex Submariner 5513"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a951be3-577c-4678-92bc-cad9d5358762"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Especially when we've already done the Reference Points on a particular model, it can feel like we've said everything there is to say.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"If you want to understand the entire lineage of the Rolex Submariner, our Reference Points – covering every vintage Sub reference – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points/" target=\"_blank\">is the place to go</a>. ","title":"Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner","images":["3fe2fd9c-17a2-4b46-a3c0-ad8c2a61a898"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Welp, good job guys, we did it – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points/" target=\"_blank\">we wrote 10,505 words on the Submariner</a> – try and top that,\" the very title Reference Points taunts. But there's still plenty to say about the 5513.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As Reference Points reminds us, Rolex produced the 5513 from 1962 through 1989, which means it lived a life longer than most domesticated cats. Like a house cat, any particular 5513 isn't exactly rare or special (just kidding, Marmalade, I love you, my sweet tortie), but as the 5513 fades further in the rearview, it's harder to find them in good condition. More than rarity, the condition is what can set a vintage Sub apart.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Submariner 5512 Vs. 5513"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["88f5f2f2-a7e9-4f6e-b646-96fd55cba53a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex introduced the Submariner 5513 in 1962, three years after the Submariner 5512. The main difference is on the inside, as the 5513 does not feature a COSC-certified chronometer movement. After its first few years of production, the 5512 always used a chronometer-certified movement. This was signified by the \"Superlative Chronometer\" text on the dial at six o'clock. The 5512 carried a premium, but the watches are the same otherwise. As the first Submariner references with crown guards, they laid the groundwork for the next 60 years of the model. While materials have changed, cases have gotten beefier and bracelets sturdier; a 5512 or 5513 is, basically, the same as a modern 124060.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While it would've made a difference when these watches were originally purchased, nowadays, the chronometer (5512) vs. non-chronometer (5513) doesn't mean as much. As a matter of taste, some collectors might like the idea of a chronometer more, while others might prefer the minimal two lines of text on a 5513 dial. (I'm mostly the latter – don't get mad at me, chronometer heads.)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["999355e9-4650-4318-9438-787b1392a5b0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Sure, the 5512 is rarer, but for the most part, people just want a good-looking Submariner with a little character,\" Charlie Dunne, Vice President and Senior Specialist at Wind Vintage, said. It's often said that you'll find one 5512 for every 20 5513s, but these are just estimates. For perspective, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://everywatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">EveryWatch</a> tracks the secondary market and says there are 137 ref. 5512s available right now, while there are 764 ref. 5513s available.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Either way a 5513 in great condition always beats a poor 5512.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"For me, the 5513 is among the ultimate in sports Rolex,\" Fratello editor Mike Stockton added. \"Despite the fact that I've always been partial to the 5512 because my dad wore a battered '60s example for diving, I deeply respect the 5513.\" This illustrates the larger point: Any preference between the two references is mostly personal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d7bb7718-f1c4-4579-90c1-aa71e373245f","e86f7deb-33ab-4f03-a996-7b31599cf0fb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Two-liner vs. four-liner – it's a debate nearly as old as the detent escapement. Other than that, the 5512 and 5513 are the same watches: 40 x 14mm, no date, 200 meters of water resistance, a rotating bezel, and a black dial. The no-date 5512 and 5513 are often discussed together and differentiated from the Submariner Date ref. 1680, which was introduced a few years later.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Let's focus on the 5513, the \"everyman\" Sub for nearly three decades. We'll briefly discuss dial types and why collectors might prefer one over the other, the evolution of the Oyster bracelet, and the case condition before ending with a discussion of the market and collecting the Submariner 5513. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Submariner 5513 Dials"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1acf0546-7079-43f7-8222-e070472d1837"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In broad terms, there are three generations of the 5513:\n\n<ul> <li>Gilt dials, 1962–1967ish</li> <li>Matte dials, 1967–1984ish</li> <li>Glossy dials, 1984–1989</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Within these are nearly limitless variants based on dial printing, lume plots, and crown guard shape, not to mention rare birds like MilSubs and Explorer dials that sit at the top of Sub collecting, if not all of vintage Rolex. This isn't a full deep-dive into every single variation of the 5513 – that's been done. Besides our Reference Points, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://5513mattedial.com//" target=\"_blank\">5513mattedial.com</a> is a great resource for learning about the 10 (!) matte dial variants.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Instead of going in-depth on each of the dial types, I found one collector to explain why one specific dial type – gilt, matte, or glossy – is their favorite.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Gilt Dials","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92168f40-fa56-4611-8191-5c8f173936e4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like many brands, Rolex produced gilt dials for its sports watches in the early '60s, including Subs. These dials were produced by a time-intensive process that exposed the underlying metal of the dial blank. Since the technique exposes the blank brass underneath the dial's face, this often results in golden text and markers. A lacquer is also added, giving the black dial a \"glossy,\" shiny finish.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This gilt process was used by Rolex to produce 5513 (and 5512) dials until the late '60s. Today, collectors still love gilt dials because they're deep and rich, with metallic lettering that no paint can match – and gilt Subs carry the price premiums to prove it. Some old guys will even tell you these gilt dials are the real-deal vintage stuff, and everything after that is far too modern for their sensibilities. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c1418c0-2c27-479b-b0d6-22aff3d3b26a","793e8855-b9c6-4d3f-b4eb-f188736d0318"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"I particularly like gilt Submariners because they're bold tool watches that exhibit beautiful fragility as well,\" collector (and gilt 5513 owner) Jeff Binstock said. \"Early '60s Submariners have bold, beautiful, glossy dials with subtle gilt writing in relief. But they're also fragile and many experienced cracking and peeling from heat and moisture exposure.\" Because of this, finding a gilt Sub in collectible condition is a real treat. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"These gilt dials truly feel like old, vintage watches from another era. It's hard to find anything made since that compares with that deep, glossy black. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Matte Dials","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d5c7ed44-eeb0-4ef6-bdaf-2495a7e6f7fc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"By the late '60s, Rolex started transitioning from gilt to matte dials.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In his excellent <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.windvintage.com/blog/collectors-guide-rolex-submariner-reference-5512/" target=\"_blank\">in-depth article</a> on the Submariner 5512, Dunne explained that the pad printing (or tampography) process was actually invented for watch dials by a German industrialist, developing a process to print matte dials at scale by 1968. It's no wonder we saw brands like Rolex transition from those pesky gilt dials to matte dials in the late '60s. While pad printing would soon be used for all kinds of things, it was invented for watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For Stockton, who owns a Maxi matte 5513, this is as good as it gets.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"The fact that Rolex was making this antiquated watch with a matte dial and gorgeous domed Tropic crystal well into the '80s strikes me as anachronistic. I love the huge, warm tritium lume plots under the crystal… earlier pieces are fine but more lume is better to me.\" \n\nStockton is referring to the \"Maxi\" dials that Rolex began producing in the late '70s, so called because of the larger lume plots that can make the watch feel even bigger. These mega lume plots can also make the watch feel a bit bigger on wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"He's right – getting a full view of all those lume plots through that old, domed plastic crystal just feels right. Dunne agreed.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9101188d-eb3f-419f-9b09-96a9d3532bd1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"There's nothing like a gilt Rolex dial,\" Dunne conceded. \"But should a matte dial always be less desirable than gilt? No way.\" The crisp print and textured surface give matte dials a character all their own. Especially if you take into account the premium that gilt can command over matte, there's a lot of value in matte dials.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"A matte Submariner is, in many ways, the Submariner. It's not flashy or rare or ostentatious, it's just a great vintage dive watch, and that's exactly why Rolex made these matte 5513s for almost two decades. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Glossy Dials (With White Gold Surrounds)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cf02c26e-27d7-462e-803d-fd99cb71cc56","0d578ee0-fce5-444e-b3c6-59747387df05"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, in the mid-'80s, Rolex transitioned to glossy dials featuring lume plots with white gold surrounds around the lume plots. It's the first hint that the diver's watch was pivoting from tool to luxury. The excess of the '80s had arrived in full force, and not even the reliable old Submariner could resist it. Even the lume plots have gone from a functional feature to a statement. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["7ace229b-7ea6-4e27-a0eb-6f5c023f534a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"This dial combo represents our first glimpse of luxury for the longstanding tool watch,\" says the private collector from whom I borrowed the glossy 5513 you see photographed here. He points out that the dial and white gold surrounds really shine in bright sunlight and then revert back to its more muted DNA as a tool watch in lower light. This example comes from the very last year of 5513 production and you can see that the tritium lume remains a bright white; earlier examples can show some creamy aging, a cool juxtaposition against the modern, glossy dial. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I'd often thought these more modern glossy dials were a bit too luxurious – in the worst sense of that word – but especially combined with the same old 5513 case, I've grown to tolerate the look of this last generation of 5513s. The last vestiges of its tool-watch origins are hanging on like George Clooney to his last few black hairs. Still there and always handsome, but soon enough, the first five-digit models would make the Sub mostly modern.\n\nI might prefer a matte dial, but there's a modern appeal to these late glossy dials, not to mention they offer some value. They might not feel quite like a \"true\" vintage watch yet, whatever that means, but soon enough, they will.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Oyster Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e8b9f386-a553-4037-9c84-42ac0b67a715"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"A Rolex Submariner, old or new, is typically delivered on an Oyster bracelet – it's so familiar it feels like part of the watch. We don't often discuss the wearability and differences of these vintage Oyster bracelets, so let's take a closer at the range of bracelet types you can find on the 5513. In general, there are three generations of bracelets for Subs:\n\n<ul> <li>Early '60s: Rivet (7206, 6636, C&I made-in-USA bracelets, among other domestic-market bracelets)</li> <li>Late '60s–'70s: Folded link (9315)</li> <li>1980s: Solid link (93150)</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["efa9c99d-cfae-4dd8-bbae-40e887ba5100"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Renowned Swiss bracelet <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gay-freres-much-more-than-a-simple-manufacturer-of-watch-bracelets/" target=\"_blank\">maker Gay Freres</a> was the primary supplier of bracelets, which Rolex would go on to wholly acquire in 1998. To reduce duties on its watches imported in certain markets, Rolex also commissioned domestic suppliers in the U.S., U.K. (W.A.B.), Mexico, and elsewhere. The most notable is the U.S. manufacturer C&I (Cromwell International), easily identified by the C&I logo on the clasp.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9a8f9fc2-9adf-4a8a-aab9-2dfb04b3d850"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The first-gen rivet bracelets refer to the visible rivets on the outer edge that hold together the hollow, folded links and typically came in stretch or non-stretch variants. For those more familiar with modern Rolex bracelets, it can be shocking how light and downright flimsy these vintage bracelets feel. But a lot of people – including me – love the feel. They taper nicely to a no-nonsense clasp (no FlipLock, no GlideLock, no problem!) and practically melt on the wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Collectors with smaller wrists often prefer rivet bracelets because they're so much lighter,\" Dunne said. While Submariners are large by vintage Rolex standards, these thin, almost weightless bracelets balance out that heft. Early \"Big Logo\" rivet bracelets that also came on other big-time Rolex references and were named after the large logo stamped on the clasp command a premium.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["572edec2-e697-4df6-acb7-edacf389b538"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Bracelet codes are stamped inside the clasp. In these early years, a batch and production year were also stamped on the clasp. In the '70s, Rolex began using a system where a letter represented the year, and the number represented the month. You can find a number of these code tables on the Internet, but look at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-serial-numbers/" target=\"_blank\">this one</a> from Bob's Watches, for example, and you can tell that a bracelet stamped \"G6\" dates to June 1982.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["08cd2823-2e6e-4ed6-8de2-ad885938e567"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"By the '70s, Rolex moved to folded-link bracelets (9315 with 280 end links for the Submariner), which have a bit more heft. For the 5513, it's the Goldilocks bracelet – not too old, not too new. They still sit super slim on the wrist but just a bit sturdier than those rattly rivets.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In the '80s, Rolex started making solid-link bracelets (93150 with 580 end links for the Submariner). By now, Rolex has firmly entered its beefcake era, and these feel, more or les, like modern bracelets. You'll find them on matte and glossy dials.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cdf7d65c-8af5-467f-8f3a-47cf33e6473c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We can debate which bracelet feels best on wrist, and I certainly have. As mentioned, the folded link has a Goldilocks appeal for me, though there's also a practicality to wearing your vintage tool watch on a sturdy solid-link bracelet (FlipLock and all). There's a bit less vintage appeal, and it'll feel chunkier on the wrist, but you also won't sweat while walking through every single door jamb. For me, a matte 5513 on a solid link bracelet strikes that balance between vintage charm and wearability that makes vintage Rolex appealing. That's more about wearability than collectability, but of any vintage watches, it feels like we should wear our vintage Subs. \n\nBy the way, that's one of the reasons it can be so fun to search for vintage Submariners – they vary so much in condition because people just wore their damn watches. \n\nBeyond personal preferences for a particular type of Oyster bracelet, it's important to find a bracelet that matches your watch. For example, if you're wearing an early gilt dial, that should pair with a rivet bracelet. For me, it just looks weird and put together on a solid-link bracelet – save those later bracelets for late matte or glossy dials. And if you're a dealer, offer your Sub stock on a correct bracelet!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Vintage Submariner Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47ea1ef1-3e53-4804-8c1b-018007a50f61"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I wanted to talk more about the Submariner case, but this has already gone longer than expected, so I'll leave you with just a couple of thoughts:\n\n<ul> <li>First, while it's important to look for a 5513 case that still has its original lines and edges, these Oyster cases are chunky, built to last, and can stand a sympathetic polish or two. More than a Daytona or Explorer, for example. Obviously, sharper cases deserve a premium, but a polish or two doesn't need to be an automatic pass. </li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a2f194a0-e7e5-476d-96f8-738f3e6658c5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>Second, a lot of the magic is in the lug bevels. There are other details to look for, too – e.g., the crown guards and knurling on the bezel ring – but a lot of the beauty of a Sub's case is in the bevels. Look at even a few vintage Submariner cases, and you'll see how much they can vary. Some of this is polishing, but some of it's just how they were made. The original bevels are big and fat on early examples but tend to get thinner in later years. Much of the trick is finding a case that seems to \"make sense\" with the rest of the watch. A crispy case with a dial that looks like it's been through a couple of tours? No thanks.</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond that, we'll save a deeper dive into Rolex Oyster case condition another day. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Submariner Market And Collecting The 5513"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["006ce78c-99c0-4df5-bb7d-dceca6cf869f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"It's a really good time to be a person who wants to own a vintage Sub,\" Dunne said. Everyone I talked to agreed. The vintage Rolex market has been down for a few years, but thinking that the vintage Submariner market is going to completely collapse would be like betting against Microsoft. The Submariner is the ultimate blue chip in watch collecting. \n\nThe data seems to agree, too. The Subdial/Bloomberg Watch Index says the average price of a 5513 is down 11.8 percent over the past 12 months, with trade volume down 29 percent. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ef72e024-82cb-4b14-8c23-fef126eacb14"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As we've been discussing, there's a ton of variation in this one reference, so one average doesn't capture the whole picture. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://everywatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">EveryWatch</a> did an analysis for this article and found that, over the past 3 years, dial types impacted the average sale price as follows:\n\n<ul> <li>Underline (gilt): +$35,600</li> <li>Matte dial: +$1,400</li> <li>Glossy (WGS) dial: -$1,200</li>\n</ul>\n\nIn other words, a matte dial sold for an average of $1,400 more than the overall 5513 average. Given that a matte 5513 is basically an \"average\" 5513 – it had the longest production run of the three dial types – this seems to make some sense. This spread, which doesn't even get to the special Explorer dials and MilSubs, begins to illustrate how you could spend a lifetime collecting vintage Subs or just the 5513 and never get bored. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dde1fff8-8a96-4cec-b268-4c8121a31667","cdac85fc-dad8-45c8-a119-33b2381f2308"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"However, the vintage Rolex market has been slower over the past few years. The general consensus is that \"it's not 2018\" anymore when every big-time collector felt they needed an early gilt Sub. And that's just fine. Rolex made the 5513 for almost 30 years, and people have been buying them for the last 30 years. It'll still be the quintessential diver in another 30 years. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond the numbers, The Rolex Submariner 5513 is a great first watch, fifth watch, or last watch. No matter what the \"market\" thinks of the 5513, it has a certain everyman appeal that can't be quantified as the simple, non-chronometer Submariner that Rolex made across three decades. \n\nAnd now, I'm gonna go flip on The Godfather II. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to Charlie Dunne, Mike Stockton, collector Jason (@<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/dudleydad123//" target=\"_blank\">dudleydad23)</a>, and Jeff Binstock for their insights into collecting the Rolex Submariner and the ref. 5513.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"How To Buy A Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"25f6ff06-4dd6-471a-8e11-32ecb1dd1120","container_id":13507,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/0c765145-8d35-4bc9-bdf3-a980fd655d60/5513-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"rolex submariner 5513","created_at":"2024-06-24T19:02:57.480-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-28T18:13:39.873-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/0c765145-8d35-4bc9-bdf3-a980fd655d60/5513-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-vintage-rolex-submariner-5513","full_title":"In-Depth: A Collector's Guide To The Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513","tags":["rolex","in-depth","rolex-submariner","vintage-watches","rolex-submariner-5513"]},{"id":13515,"slug":"breitling-adds-a-trio-of-aviation-inspired-chronographs-to-its-avenger-collection","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Breitling Adds A Trio Of Aviation-Inspired Chronographs To Its Avenger Collection","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-06-26T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-26T10:37:20.720-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-26T15:56:46.185-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Three new chronographs that pay tribute to the U.S. Navy. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":22312,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Last year, Breitling introduced its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-updated-breitling-avenger-takes-flight-with-a-chronograph-gmt-and-automatic-models/" target=\"_blank\">updated Avenger collection</a>, a slightly scaled-down, sleeker take on the original Avenger. That collection included a ceramic \"Night Mission\" chronograph. Now, Breitling has added a trio of chronographs that pay homage to the U.S. Navy. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0e716259-8a3d-498b-bf52-65c180ebe5c8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like last year's Night Mission Avenger, this trio uses a 44mm (15.2mm thick, 53mm lug-to-lug) black ceramic case and is powered by Breitling's manufacturer caliber B01 chronograph. It's a COSC-certified, column-wheel, vertical-clutch movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The manufacture movement represents a technical leap forward for the Avenger chronograph. It's still a big watch that won't be for everyone, but that's what we expect – even ask – of Breitling. And with downsized offerings in other corners of the catalog, this keeps the Avenger true to its original purpose.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["469daf4f-11db-42fe-8ae3-2638b6abfa61"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This new trio is differentiated, I suppose, by a military tie-in with the U.S. Naval Academy and two of its elite flying squadrons, the Dust Devils and the Bloodhounds. Their respective logos sit on the nine o'clock subdial, and there are also some engravings around around the sapphire caseback. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Of course, special edition also means special price, and these have an MSRP of $10,200, a $500 premium over the standard Night Missions. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e4dbdd0b-280f-4fdf-a51d-5b44c3cd9073"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When I wrote about a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/when-17-vintage-breitling-watches-come-to-town-of-course-were-going-to-talk-about-them/" target=\"_blank\">collection of 17 vintage Breitlings</a> a few weeks ago, I mentioned that a little 34mm gold Premier chrono was my favorite of the bunch. So a 44mm ceramic chronograph that leans into military and aviation is decidedly not for me, which is fine. But a $10,000 chronograph that leans into Breitling's history of aviation and military in a pretty specific way also feels like it might have a niche appeal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["758d199b-e622-4f3e-9846-5a5611284a4a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I don't mind the Navy tie-in, but the logos at nine o'clock just seem a bit random and loud. At their best – and back in the day – these military watches have subtle nods to their purpose as a tool for service men and women. Perhaps even just a caseback engraving. But beyond the logos, the combination of colors, straps, and ceramic on these new Avengers do look cool and covert. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Besides that, I actually like the updated Avenger and the ceramic \"Night Mission\" might be the best executed – it manages to sit somewhere between the Breitling of 20 years ago and the Breitling of today in a way that feels true to the brand. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51192165-03da-40d8-9658-c7ff8fa0945e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Breitling Model: Avenger Reference Number: SB01474A1C1X1; SB01472A1B1X1; SB01473A1B1X1\n\nDiameter: 44mm Thickness: 15.2mm Case Material: Black ceramic Dial Color: Black or blue Indexes: Applied with Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 300m Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin leather with titanium folding clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["edebe277-6582-49a6-b08c-b2c64c909a33"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph Diameter: 30mm Thickness: 7.2mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4Hz Chronometer Certified: Yes Additional Details: Column wheel, vertical clutch","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $10,200 Limited Edition: No","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of Breitling watches. For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/avenger//" target=\"_blank\">view the Avenger collection on Breitling's website</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introduction To The Breitling Avenger U.S. Navy Editions","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":9392,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, so we're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. 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My guests this week are Phil Toledano and Mike Nouveau. \n\nPhil is no stranger to Hodinkee, having been on Talking Watches and this podcast previously. He's an artist and photographer, bon vivant as well as a collector of all kinds of stuff, including watches. Most recently, he's the co-founder of Toledano & Chan, which just released its first watch, the brutalist B1. He's also a frequent undercard on Mike's social videos.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Mike is a vintage dealer and the king of WatchTok – he's got hundreds of thousands of followers across social media who tune into his daily updates on life as a dealer in New York City. He has in particular become known for his love and expertise in vintage Cartier, which we certainly talk about.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The odd couple are friends and collectors, and they just love watches. We talk about vintage Cartier, Breitling, Patek, and pre-Daytonas, as well as the first release from Toledano's new brand. Along the way, we all get in a few friendly jabs. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"FpgqLu92ncc","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tiktok.com/@mikenouveau?lang=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">Mike Nouveau on TikTok</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/mikenouveau//" target=\"_blank\">Instagram</a> Phil Toledano on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/misterenthusiast/" target=\"_blank\">Instagram</a>\n\n1:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-b1-is-an-audaciously-designed-watch-by-newcomer-toledano-and-chan/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan</a>\n\n1:21: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-radio-episode-80-phil-toledano/" target=\"_blank\">Phil on Hodinkee Radio in 2020</a>\n\n2:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-brings-back-the-tortue-monopusher-chronograph-and-all/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue – Monopusher Chronograph And All</a>\n\n3:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-unique-1929-cartier-tortue-monopusher/" target=\"_blank\">Just Because: A Quick Look At A Unique 1929 Platinum Cartier Tortue Monopusher</a>\n\n11:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8MUvrhRvvw//" target=\"_blank\">Phil's rectangular Patek with blue sapphire numerals</a>\n\n11:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audacious-design-of-1970s-patek/" target=\"_blank\">Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Audacious Design Of 1970s Patek</a>\n\n11:56: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tiktok.com/@mikenouveau/video/7379358609090022702/" target=\"_blank\">Mike and Phil picking up the Rolex Zerograph</a>\n\n15:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C7UUVtWtuE-/?img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">Mike's Patek 96 with Breguet numerals</a>\n\n16:44: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-96-calatrava-lot-368-133?browse_all=1&page=2&q=patek+96\%22 target=\"_blank\">The steel Patek 96 that sold at Antiquorum in May</a>\n\n19:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sylvester-stallones-grandmaster-chime-sells-for-dollar54-million-evaluating-vintage-patek-philippe-c/" target=\"_blank\">Auctions: Sylvester Stallone's Grandmaster Chime Sells For $5.4 Million, Evaluating Vintage Patek Philippe Condition, And More From New York</a>\n\n23:52: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-phil-toledano/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches with Phil Toledano</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"An Interview With TikToker Mike Nouveau and Phil Toledano","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e30dd62f-40db-4eee-a49a-732ac31e083e","container_id":13513,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/79aa261a-7e7e-464e-9714-3e4de8c8d728/H-Radio-Article-Hero-017.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"conversation with phil toledano and mike nouveau","created_at":"2024-06-25T15:43:35.911-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-25T15:43:35.911-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/79aa261a-7e7e-464e-9714-3e4de8c8d728/H-Radio-Article-Hero-017.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-conversation-with-phil-toledano-and-mike-nouveau","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: In Conversation With Phil Toledano And Mike Nouveau","tags":["hodinkee-radio","toledano-&-chan"]}]}">