Editor — Anthony Traina

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It's almost the end of summer, so today I've got Mark Kauzlarich and our new editor TanTan Wang on to talk about some of the biggest news of the past couple of months. While the watch world mostly slows down in July and August, news and releases have still been trickling out. So we're going to highlight a few of our favorite releases from Tudor, Longines, MB&F, and more. Then, we hit on some other industry news before taking a longer look at Habring2, the Austrian brand from Richard and Maria Habring. \n\nThen, Mark and I will both be at Geneva Watch Days, so we do a preview of what to look forward to as the Swiss watch industry kicks into high gear again. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio. We'll be off the next two weeks for an end of summer break, but we'll be back in your feed again on September 18. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"LXF5Uc0Xs2E","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"2:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-adds-to-its-spirit-collection-led-by-the-titanium-zulu-time-39/" target=\"_blank\">Longines Adds To Its Spirit Collection, Led By The Titanium Zulu Time 39</a>\n\n4:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-58-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT</a>\n\n8:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-legend-diver-back-and-better-at-39mm/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Longines Legend Diver – Back And Better At 39mm</a>\n\n10:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-tudor-pelagos-fxd-cycling/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Tudor Pelagos FXD \"Cycling Edition\"</a>\n\n13:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/two-new-tudor-pelagos-fxds-for-alinghi-red-bull-racing-and-one-of-them-is-a-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Two New Tudor Pelagos FXDs For Alinghi Red Bull Racing – And One Of Them Is A Chronograph</a>\n\n18:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-retro-furlan-marri-disco-volante/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Furlan Marri Disco Volante</a>\n\n20:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-mad-editions-mad1s/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.1 Gets Slimmer With The M.A.D.1S</a>\n\n28:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chanel-takes-a-25-stake-in-mbandf/" target=\"_blank\">Business News: Chanel Takes A 25% Stake In MB&F</a>\n\n36:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-habring-erwin-tuxedo/" target=\"_blank\">The Value Proposition: The Habring2 Erwin 'Tuxedo'</a>\n\n39:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-true-second-review/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Geopyshic True Second</a>\n\n51:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://spaceonewatches.com/pages/tellurium/" target=\"_blank\">SpaceOne Watches Tellerium</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"c32d6fb6-e8a3-4754-8b0a-5819cef94b55","container_id":13678,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/b136825f-fd40-4134-8840-8b7c235e179a/H-Radio-Article-Hero-025.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-08-27T09:15:29.456-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-27T09:43:16.321-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b136825f-fd40-4134-8840-8b7c235e179a/H-Radio-Article-Hero-025.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/summer-releases-from-tudor-and-longines-talking-value-proposition-from-habring-and-mad1","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Summer Releases From Tudor And Longines; Talking Value Propositions From Habring² And M.A.D.1","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13666,"slug":"announcement-geneva-watch-days-2024","column_slug":"announcements","title":"Geneva Watch Days 2024 Starts This Thursday – Stay Tuned! ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-26T15:19:37.175-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-21T11:13:52.360-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-26T15:19:42.055-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The latest releases from 50+ brands, including Breitling, Bulgari, MB&F, Oris, and more. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16044,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's almost September, which means it's nearly the end of summer vacations, brat summer (just as I was about to learn what it all meant), and the traditional Swiss \"watchmaker's holiday.\" For the fifth year, this also means Geneva Watch Days, a now-annual trade show with more than 50 brands showcasing their watches or introducing new ones. For those in Geneva, it's also a long weekend of panels and parties; for those at home, there are launches to get excited about from Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser, and MB&F (the show's six founding members), as well as dozens of other brands big and small. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["742443cc-b921-4178-bad9-f45bc94c18a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Coverage on the site begins August 29th and runs through September 2nd, so be sure to check back here for all the latest releases from the participating brands. We'll cover a number of launches and then follow up with live photos and thoughts from the ground, as Mark and I will be in Geneva covering the show. In addition to the founding brands, expect us to cover new releases from Alpina, Daniel Roth, F.P. Journe, and Oris. Mark and I are also excited to visit with a few smaller watchmakers, such as Xhevdet Rexhepi, Greubel Forsey, and Berneron. For up-to-the-minute coverage, also follow along with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hodinkee's Instagram</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's not all new watches at Geneva Watch Days. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.futuregrail.com//" target=\"_blank\">Auction platform FutureGrail</a> will display the lots from its upcoming Patek Philippe sales during the week, with highlights including all manner of complicated Pateks, Calatravas, and pocket watches. Meanwhile, Phillips will host a charity auction in support of the Pierre Amstutz Fund, which supports apprentices in watchmaking.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fc865268-e806-435d-8317-4e8b92a57f9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Geneva Watch Days isn't of the same scale as Watches & Wonders (no Rolex, Patek, Cartier, etc.), but it has continued to grow in importance since the pandemic upended the traditional watch trade show schedule. Further, it offers a wider variety of events, panels, and showcases during the weekend. \n\nSpeaking of! If you happen to be in Geneva this week, make sure to check out the show's official programming (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.gva-watch-days.com//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">schedule here</a>). I'll be on a panel on Saturday afternoon called \"Major Evolutions in the Secondary Watch Market,\" and Mark will be co-moderating one on Sunday, \"Post-Hype Collectability: From Vintage Masterpieces to Modern Grails.\" Hope to see some of you there! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For more information, check out Geneva Watch Days' <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.gva-watch-days.com//" target=\"_blank\">official site</a>. 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","tags":["announcements","geneva-watch-days-2024"]},{"id":13660,"slug":"talking-vintage-rolex-and-offbeat-finds-with-fred-savage","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Talking Vintage Rolex And Offbeat Finds With Fred Savage","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-21T13:09:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-20T13:21:19.736-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-21T20:47:15.609-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Ben and I catch up with the actor and director on what he's collecting nowadays. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":19426,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/2a156194-b2d8-4032-90f6-d3253e95f089?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Today's guest is a true legend. Fred Savage is an actor, producer, and director best known for his roles in front of the camera in The Wonder Years and The Princess Bride after getting his big break in a commercial for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=US3X2wexLRg\%22 target=\"_blank\">Pac-Man Children's Chewable Multi-Vitamin</a>. He's also a watch collector who I've seen get excited about vintage Gallet, Patek, and everything in between.\n\nYou might also recognize Fred from his 2018 Talking Watches episode. Since then, he's become a fixture in the vintage watch world, and I always look forward to crossing paths with him at shows, auctions, or meetups. \n\nBen Clymer also joins the show, and we discuss Fred's evolution as a collector since his Talking Watches episode, some of his more offbeat finds, and how watches have become something for the whole family in the Savage house. Thanks for listening, and we hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"6kcG-dLYuwo","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-fred-savage/" target=\"_blank\">Fred Savage on Talking Watches</a>\n\n1:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://imgur.com/a/N629yNB/" target=\"_blank\">Fred's \"new\" vintage Rolex Datejust</a> from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/west-hollywood-dealer-ken-jacobs-on-embracing-vintage-style-for-40-plus-years/" target=\"_blank\">Wanna Buy A Watch?</a>\n\n17:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://imgur.com/a/lG67Aid/" target=\"_blank\">Fred's Rolex Commando</a>\n\n19:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C7zgumPSmIg//" target=\"_blank\">Fred's Framont Parking Meter Alarm Watch</a>\n\n24:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1960s-bulova-accutron-devil-diver-deep-sea-666-feet?srsltid=AfmBOorcZV8fCJFPn7iTY65h1Vx2gkl5I7g-x2rqozhle4ToEAT_aQnw&variant=29410941730891\%22 target=\"_blank\">Bulova Devil Diver 666 example</a> (Hodinkee Shop)\n\n46:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/timepiecegrading//" target=\"_blank\">Timepiece Grading Specialists</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Inteview With Fred Savage About His Watch Collection","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"4cb0694a-637e-48d7-980b-bd1217b78011","container_id":13660,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/0e317d09-3094-45ea-b370-d33f09178527/H-Radio-Article-Hero-024.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Fred Savage watches interview","created_at":"2024-08-20T13:21:19.826-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-21T13:08:09.545-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/0e317d09-3094-45ea-b370-d33f09178527/H-Radio-Article-Hero-024.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-vintage-rolex-and-offbeat-finds-with-fred-savage","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Talking Vintage Rolex And Offbeat Finds With Fred Savage","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13650,"slug":"the-st-dupont-x-franck-muller-lighter-thats-reigniting-the-fire-for-franck-live-pics","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The S.T. Dupont x Franck Muller Lighter That's Reigniting The Fire For Franck (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-19T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-14T13:49:20.797-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-19T16:03:33.241-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The Master Lighter that's fanning the flames for two very different brands. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":17002,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"During Watches & Wonders in April, I made a secret appointment on my last day in Geneva. As the very prim and proper show full of Europeans in trim blue suits and black shoes came to a close, I snuck out early on Friday to pick up a car shuttle – Mercedes S Class – to visit Watchland on the outskirts of Geneva. Opened in the 1990s, Watchland is the sprawling HQ of Franck Muller. According to some, it was originally conceived of as a \"theme park\" for watch enthusiasts, a suggestion from no less <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-tastes-trends-and-elton-johns-watch-collection/" target=\"_blank\">than Sir Elton John</a>. When I told people I had to leave the sterile, fluorescently-lit halls of the Palexpo Convention Center to visit Franck Muller, there was only one response: Laughter.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9e917b4-ac87-4f2d-a4bc-57c0f64ba3de"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For some reason – well for many reasons, some good and some not – Franck Muller feels like the crazy uncle of the Swiss watch industry. Its modern watches provide the answer to the question: What if the excess of the Wall Street '80s and the dot-com boom of the '90s that led to a booming popularity of large, blinged-out watches just kept on going, full steam ahead, for another few decades?\n\nProbably something like this year's Cintree Curvex™ Imperial Tourbillon Baguette.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e2645bfd-0533-4f22-92ef-913fbfed99d2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Watchland isn't quite Disney World but it might as well be a parallel universe. The buildings are more countryside mansion than industrial office park, even if inside are the CNC machines and watchmakers' benches you might expect of a modern Swiss manufacturer. And Franck Muller is a real manufacturer, making its cases, movements, dials, and other components. It's just that the final product indulges some of luxury's worst impulses, an inability to say \"no\" to more, more, more.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But Franck Muller is completely unapologetic about being Franck Muller. Most brands unveil their handful of new releases in small rooms at a conference center by the Geneva airport. But Franck Muller takes up the entire attic of its farmhouse on the outskirts of Geneva to put on full display something like 30 new watches, certainly more if you include all the different color combinations. Unlike most brands, they simply give the customers what they want, which is more, more, more. Want a Cintree Curvex Tourbillon in green? Sure, we can do that. Oh, you said orange? Here you go.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's usually bad form to quote press releases but let me provide just this tidbit from Franck Muller's 2024 releases so you get a feel for the vibe that is Franck Muller – totally over-the-top, with lots of diamonds:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Among the 2024 novelties, Franck Muller reveals the stunning Curvex CX Giga Tourbillon Skeleton with an incredible skeleton design, the new Curvex CX Master Jumper with its three jumping functions, and the Cintrée Curvex™ Imperial Tourbillon Baguette, adorned with magnificent baguette diamonds. The craftsmen have excelled in creating a new process the Carbon Damascus Steel and developed a new collection that features a magnificent open back and an entirely in-house manufactured movement. Furthermore, Franck Muller unveils the Lady Round Skeleton Baguette and the Vanguard™ Lady Slim Skeleton.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a543943-fa13-4790-bdbb-bed2a1267f37","2e88fc37-ef1c-4887-be94-df363ffb062b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But I'm not here to talk about a skeletonized triple-jumping Vanguard with baguette diamonds or whatever else. These are not the Franck Muller watches that are interesting to me. There was one release I wanted to see at Watchland that was so ridiculously and perfectly Franck Muller.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Because who really needs a $70,000 palladium-plated lighter with a built-in watch, a skeletonized movement, limited to just 88 pieces (in four colors, granted)?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6c44498b-b688-4a9c-93b5-54d7d79fc8cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"That's what the S.T. Dupont x Franck Muller Master Lighter is. I would ask who it's for, but when I visited Watchland, it was teeming with clients, and they all wanted to play with the lighter, and so did I.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The fun starts with Dupont's signature cling sound when you flip open the cap of the Master Lighter. I'm no smoker and cigars make me sick, but damn it if that cling didn't have me asking for the closest Cuban. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://youtube.com/shorts/fD1cjkqh6TI/" target=\"_blank\">Here's a raw video</a> to show what I mean. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c7a49495-7759-4450-862b-705d72f878e0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The S.T. Dupont x Franck Muller Master Lighter is a good bit larger than your standard Dupont Lighter (39 x 66mm, basically a few iPhone Max 15s stacked together). The Master Lighter comes in four versions: all are plated with palladium featuring a Clous de Paris pattern, one coated with blacked-out PVD. The dials have Franck Muller's signature exploding numerals in a variety of colors. Of course, the Color Dream is the best (speaking objectively), with the skeletonized bridges on the other side in matching colors. Each of those bridges is anodized in a different color, a task I'm told is non-trivial in complexity. The Black PVD with SuperLumiNova numerals is a close second after Color Dream, with the white and blue lacquered dials more subdued, or as far as subdued goes in Watchland.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Master Lighter doesn't stop there because Franck Muller never does. The axis for the hands pokes through the gas reservoir – you'll notice that the hours and minutes are on the dial side, while the seconds hand is on the back, spinning over the skeletonized movement. The movement has a symmetrical layout with its mainspring sitting above the escapement, and criss-crossing bridges, a familiar Franck Muller motif.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["87bed239-b454-46e7-91f2-66157da0ac10"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It's weird to say that an $80,000 watch lighter with a skeletonized movement is restrained, but for Franck Muller, it kind of is. It's this bit of restraint that makes so many of Franck Muller's early watches from the 1990s compelling for collectors more interested in traditional (whatever that means) watchmaking. Its early round chronographs, the Long Island, and Curvex are more vintage Patek than modern Hublot, winks to Franck Muller's time as a master restorer. And after all, putting a watch inside a lighter is a quite traditional idea. Every so often, you might come across an Art Deco era lighter from Dunhill or a number of other makers that has a watch conveniently cut into its body. It's this type of playful reference to the past, in a totally avant-garde form, that once made Franck Muller so ground-breaking. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Still, Franck Muller has never gotten much respect from the self-serious collector. Hover over \"Brands\" in the very menu bar above you, skim to \"F,\" and you'll notice that Franck Muller is sinfully omitted. Modern Franck Muller and today's watch collector seem to fundamentally misunderstand each other, and that's just fine.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d3c3249a-3b1b-430b-9f1b-1d7d4387c15f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But the entire story of Franck Muller, the brand and the man, is one that should be told one day. It paved the way for a generation of independent watchmakers, and the industry is still riding that wave. (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/collectible-1990s-watches-rolex-patek-daniel-roth/" target=\"_blank\">Who</a> do you think was doing two-sided chronographs <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-rexhep-rexhepi-lvrr01-chronographe-a-sonnerie/" target=\"_blank\">before Rexhepi</a>?) He was maybe the first watchmaker to bring high-end watchmaking to pop culture. By the early 2000s, Franck Muller was on top of the watch world. But as is often the case, this enfant terrible attitude that made him a shooting star also made him burn out far too soon.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"While important luxury watch groups such as Swatch Group and Richemont publish declining figures for their 2002 and half 2003 results, Franck Muller Watchland, on the contrary, enjoys an excellent progression,\" Europa Star <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.europastar.com/news/2037757-franck-muller-enjoys-excelent-2002-results-and.html/" target=\"_blank\">wrote in August 2003</a>, reporting that Franck Muller's turnover had increased 54 percent the previous year. But just months after that, lawsuits and counter-lawsuits were being thrown around as the brand's founding partners had a falling out. The dispute eventually reached a resolution, but Franck Muller the watchmaker never fully returned to the brand with his name on the door. At least in English-speaking archives, there's not a full account of what happened, but words like \"drugs,\" \"fake watches,\" \"alcohol,\" and other such vices are tossed around enough in old newspapers and by those who know the story for me to know it'd make a hell of a documentary.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cd796393-2d00-43cc-b64b-a15cf0eb1219"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While many watchmakers are still following in the footsteps of Franck Muller, it's releases like the Dupont x Franck Muller Master Lighter that best capture the original spirit of the enfant terrible. Completely ridiculous and unapologetically opulent, but surprisingly thoughtful in execution.\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.franckmuller.com/news/master-lighter/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The S.T. Dupont x Franck Muller Master Lighter is limited to 88 pieces in each of four colors, all with a palladium-plated case (39 x 66 x 21.9mm) and Clous de Paris pattern. Inside is the FM caliber 1740-LI-STD, a manual-wind movement with three-day power reserve beating at 18,000 Hz and skeletonization visible on through the lighter's sapphire side. A pipe cuts through the gas tank so that the hand axis can pass through the entire lighter; the hours and minutes are displayed on the dial side, with the seconds on the movement side. through Price: $66,000 for the white and blue dial versions, $68,500 for the black PVD, and $76,000 for the Color Dream.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Franck Muller and Dupont Release Crazy Lighter Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"72c14e5d-9b91-47cb-8fad-ee7d7c3a757e","container_id":13650,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/23bf9c6c-3af4-431a-b312-4e59ce703683/16x9forHSite18.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"franck muller dupont lighter watch","created_at":"2024-08-14T13:49:20.840-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-16T16:39:51.572-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/23bf9c6c-3af4-431a-b312-4e59ce703683/16x9forHSite18.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-st-dupont-x-franck-muller-lighter-thats-reigniting-the-fire-for-franck-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: The S.T. Dupont x Franck Muller Lighter That's Reigniting The Fire For Franck (Live Pics)","tags":["franck-muller","dupont"]},{"id":13653,"slug":"longines-adds-to-its-spirit-collection-led-by-the-titanium-zulu-time-39","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Longines Adds To Its Spirit Collection, Led By The Titanium Zulu Time 39","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-15T06:00:12.107-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-14T15:49:03.322-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-15T06:01:16.557-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A pair of two-tone Flyback Chronographs fill out the five-star lineup. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":26766,"public_token":"48607a0101d93d94a067b0c0d8e0ac7a","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Following last year's introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time in 39mm, the Swiss brand has added a titanium Zulu Time to its growing GMT lineup. This latest addition is similar to last year's stainless steel Zulu Time or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le.hodinkee.com/longines-zulu-time-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">the limited edition from this very blog</a>, just a little lighter.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Longines Spirit Zulu 39mm has a grade 5 titanium case measuring 39 x 13.5mm (46.7mm lug-to-lug). The bracelet tapers from 21mm at the lugs to a 16mm clasp with double-trigger release. The anthracite dial has applied Arabic numerals, with gold-plated accents on the hands and numerals. The black GMT hand has a red tip, and there's a date window at six o'clock. Otherwise, the dial is adorned with an applied Longines logo and the Spirit line's \"five star\" treatment above the date. The titanium Spirit Zulu Time has a black, bi-directional ceramic bezel insert with lacquered numerals and a lume pip at 12 o'clock.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["75093a1a-9c21-45db-bd43-1e548ab7dc80"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"I know that the five stars offer a link to past Longines models, but I also know that it looks like this watch has an Uber rating,\" James wrote about those pesky five stars, and I basically agree, despite my embarrassingly low Uber rating that I swear is the fault of my college buddies and not me (I'm nothing but charming and have no temperature or music preferences – just no Sabrina Carpenter!).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["64dbce00-d62c-4c50-828e-0353a5ae5380","affd0f81-2c6e-4184-8dd1-5cb23da8719c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside is the Longines caliber L844.4, an automatic COSC-certified caliber derived from an ETA that beats at 3.5 Hz with a 72-hour power reserve. It's a local-jumping \"flyer\" GMT movement, as it prioritizes the user's ability to update the main hour hand to a new time zone without stopping or otherwise affecting the general timekeeping or setting of the watch. Just unscrew the crown, and quick-set the hour hand as you might a date display.\n\nThe titanium Longines Zulu Time has a retail price of $4,275. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e4669a6b-12dd-4a1f-99eb-ac47dec074ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But wait, there's more! In addition to the handsome new GMT, Longines has also added a new version of the Flyback Chronograph to its Spirit Collection. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-adds-to-the-spirit-collection-with-the-new-flyback-chronograph-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Introduced in 2023</a>, the Spirit Flyback carries on Longines' history as the producer of the first flyback chronograph wristwatch (introduced in 1925, with a patent filed a decade later). The latest additional the flyback family is a two-tone take on the existing model, adding 18-carat yellow or rose gold pushers and crown, along with a gold-capped bezel. The case measures 42 x 17mm – it's a big boy and that's why it gets second billing in this intro. It joins stainless steel and titanium options in the Spirit Flyback collection. I haven't spent more than a few minutes with any of these in person, but the titanium is far and away the most manageable for me, with its lighter weight making the dimensions at least feel more wearable. Price: $6,500. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f54327f7-5bf3-4c1b-b5a7-c23bb8949802"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Longines continues to execute solid, good-looking watches at a reasonable price. The titanium Spirit Zulu Time in 39mm was a natural extension of the lineup, perhaps even expected after last year's limited edition. Last year, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-longines-spirit-zulu-time-in-39mm/" target=\"_blank\">James went hands-on</a> with the black-green-gold steel Zulu Time and he said he didn't care for that color and would've preferred the modern blue. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I'm more partial to gilt accents than James (we bicker about it all the time) – they've never bothered me on some of Longines' (or Tudor's) other watches, and I actually kind of like the green-and-gold on that Zulu Time. But I'm not sure if gilt accents are my favorite choice on a titanium watch. I might've preferred Longines playing this one with a straight-up modern aesthetic. But, perhaps that's to come. Anyway, executing a grey monochromatic vibe on a titanium watch has already become something of a cliche (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-spirit-flyback-chronograph-now-in-titanium/" target=\"_blank\">Longines</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-zenith-chronomaster-sport-in-titanium/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith</a> have done it recently, for example), but now I'm starting to argue with myself. Okay, maybe the gilt is fine here! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-longines-spirit-zulu-time-in-39mm/" target=\"_blank\">Last year James reviewed</a> the stainless steel Zulu Time in 39mm. One thing I noticed: the date wheel on this steel version had white text (which James critiqued for not matching the dial); this seems to have been changed to a gold-colored text on the titanium Zulu Time. Love it! ","title":"Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time In 39mm","images":["59302b01-2e2a-4604-9bd9-bc3f1eeecf1c"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond the color choices, there's not much else to add – read James' full review for a full take on the fit and finish, those controversial 5 stars at 6 o'clock, and what he calls a \"confident crown.\" ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The story's much the same with the two-tone Spirit Flybacks. There's an option with a brown dial and 5N pink gold or a green dial with yellow gold; again, green and gold for me, if only because they were the colors of my grade school – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://ol-g.squarespace.com//" target=\"_blank\">Fly Eagles Fly</a>! – and honestly it looks like they haven't changed their website one bit since I graduated in the mid-aughts, which was just delightful to discover. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Much like my little grade school, Longines doesn't need to change much either. It should probably slim down that Flyback by a few millimeters, but the Zulu Time 39 is such a winner in my book that I don't really care. The market for flyer GMTs is crowded nowadays, but Longines' offerings are more than competitive. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Longines Model: Spirit Zulu Time Reference Number: L3.802.1.53.6 Diameter: 39mm Thickness: 13.5mm Lug width: 21mm (why are brands doing this to us?!) Case Material: Grade 5 titanium Dial: Sanded anthracite with applied Arabic numerals Crystal: Domed sapphire Lume: Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet, leather strap, and NATO-style options (see above)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Longines L844.4 (ETA A31.L411 base) Functions: Date, 24-hour GMT Diameter: 25.6mm Power Reserve: 72 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour Jewels: 21 Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC certified Additional Details: Silicon balance spring","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $4,275\n\nFor more, check out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.longines.com/en-us/watches/sport/avigation/longines-spirit/" target=\"_blank\">the Longines Spirit Collection</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Longines Adds Spirit Titanium GMT 39mm And Flyback To Its Collection","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13042,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/4cca89db-de78-465c-9eab-c5acde899bdd?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Our guest today is James Lamdin, co-founder of Analog Shift. After careers in outdoor equipment and cars, James started vintage dealer Analog Shift in 2012. A long-time watch collector, James turned his passion for vintage watches into a new resource for collectors and enthusiasts. You might know Analog Shift for its detailed watch descriptions, often with a bit of character, and perhaps you've even been lucky enough to visit its New York City showroom, a standby for local vintage watch lovers. In addition to Analog Shift, James is also the co-founder of the RedBar community.\n\nIn 2020, Analog Shift was acquired by one of the largest and oldest authorized dealers in the world, Watches of Switzerland. But Analog Shift has kept its character since then. Today, James is VP of vintage and pre-owned within the Watches of Switzerland Group. When he's not talking vintage watches, he's drinking whisky, driving his vintage Porsche, and generally cosplaying as Magnum PI.\n\nJames Stacey joins Mr. Lamdin and me to talk Doxa (of course), how the watch industry has evolved since Lamdin founded Analog Shift, neo-vintage watches, and his company's growth story. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"zgRr1PtQ1ns","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/13649/analogshift.com//" target=\"_blank\">Analog Shift</a>\n\n13:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/gruen-watch-company-switzerland-travel-clock-from-710-c-3c84246abe/" target=\"_blank\">Example of Gruen Travel Alarm Clark</a>\n\n15:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.msichicago.org/explore/whats-here/exhibits/u-505-submarine/" target=\"_blank\">U-Boat at the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry</a>\n\n16:54: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-fY4a7RJmb//" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Envelope Watch</a>\n\n21:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://blog.crownandcaliber.com/watch-stories-james-lamdin//" target=\"_blank\">James' Doxa Sub 300 \"Black Lung\"</a>\n\n23:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t/" target=\"_blank\">The Doxa Sub200T</a>\n\n26:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mysterious-vintage-doxa-army-resurfaces-as-a-modern-ceramic-watch/" target=\"_blank\">The New Doxa Army</a>\n\n29:04: James' Doxa Sub300 from the Jamaican Defense Forces can be seen in the header image.\n\n43:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.analogshift.com/collections/watches/products/cartier-tank-americaine-diamond-as09898/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Tank Americaine with diamonds</a>\n\n45:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-pilots-watch-chronograph-reference-iw377724-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">IWC Chronograph ref. 3706</a>\n\n46:12: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-iwc-portugieser-chronograph-reference-3714/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Interview With James Lamdin of Analog:Shift","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"c718716f-e66b-46e7-9d04-9f176dc3ad4d","container_id":13649,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6a78c754-edf6-4637-81c8-c4749f192cce/H-Radio-Article-Hero-023.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"james lamdin analog shift interview","created_at":"2024-08-14T09:18:56.575-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-14T11:04:11.023-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6a78c754-edf6-4637-81c8-c4749f192cce/H-Radio-Article-Hero-023.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-doxa-neo-vintage-rolex-and-more-with-analog-shift-founder-james-lamdin","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Talking Doxa, Neo-Vintage, Rolex, And More With Analog Shift Founder James Lamdin","tags":["doxa","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13648,"slug":"the-last-steve-mcqueen-heuer-monaco-from-le-mans-is-coming-to-auction","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"The Last Steve McQueen Heuer Monaco From Le Mans Is Coming To Auction","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-13T17:14:47.801-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-13T12:24:47.044-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-13T17:15:47.617-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Sotheby's to sell one of six Monacos used worn by the king of cool in Le Mans. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":18672,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's one of the most iconic images at the intersection of watches and motorsport, catnip for anyone with even a passing interest in watches, racecars, or general coolness: Steve McQueen buttoning his racing suit, Heuer Monaco easily spotted, on the set of Le Mans.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Sotheby's has announced that one of the Heuer Monaco watches used as a prop for the 1971 film will be offered as part of its New York auction in December. Heuer provided six Monaco watches to be used in Le Mans, four of which had a leather strap, as McQueen is seen wearing in the film. And we know what's happened with almost all four of these McQueen Monacos:\n\n<ul> <li>Two sit in the TAG Heuer Museum, selling at auction <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-heuer-monaco-worn-by-steve-mcqueen-in-le-mans-is-coming-up-for-auction-again/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">for $799,500 in 2012</a> and $87,600 in 2009 (a steal!).</li> <li>The Monaco that McQueen gave to his personal mechanic, Haig Alltounian, on the final day of shooting Le Mans <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/steve-mcqueen-heuer-monaco-le-mans-phillips-auction-record/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sold at Phillips for $2.2 million in 2020</a>.</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["99f91801-b3bf-4cd0-9fd3-f5eee79c5e5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, another McQueen Monaco will come to auction, with an estimate of $500,000–$1 million. It's the first time this example has appeared publicly – and it might be the last time we see a McQueen Monaco ever again. Even better, this one comes with a racing postscript.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The story of the McQueen Monacos has always been a bit tricky since there are six of them, and no one knows for sure which he wore and when. In 2016, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.wsj.com/articles/the-hunt-for-steve-mcqueens-heuer-watches-1479402472/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the Wall Street Journal</a> tracked down Don Nunley, the prop master for Le Mans, to help solve the mystery.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"'I had six Monacos with blue dials on the set,\" Nunley said, adding that McQueen wore all six. That article even found the original invoice from Heuer, which shows six ref. 1133B Monacos (and 26 watches total – where are the other Le Mans Heuers?!).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"In 2020, we covered the last \"McQueen Monaco\" to appear at auction, this watch given to McQueen's mechanic after the filming of Le Mans. It sold for $2.2 million – the most a Heuer has ever sold for at auction. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/steve-mcqueen-heuer-monaco-le-mans-phillips-auction-record/" target=\"_blank\">Get up to speed here</a>. ","title":"Steve McQueen's Monaco From 'Le Mans' Brings Home $2,208,000, A Heuer Record","images":["abfe5f64-3d00-4eaf-afa6-a25a04bd4977"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"After filming Le Mans, this example ended up in the hands of Bevan Weston, a young mechanic who worked on the film. Afterwards, he would go on to work for McLaren and was a part of their Indy 500 team in 1971 – where, of course, the Monaco was on his wrist. Weston sold the watch to a private collector around 2010 (this old On The Dash <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chronocentric.com/forums/heuer/index.cgi?page=1;md=read;id=55752\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">thread</a> has an unsubstantiated claim as to its price then). Now, this private collector is consigning it to Sotheby's, marking the first time it's appeared publicly.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"When the last McQueen Monaco came to auction in 2020, it became the most expensive Heuer ever sold ($2.2 million), and that example was also one of the two known to be kept by McQueen after filming. The 2024 watch market is very different and doesn't really provide a useful barometer for where this example might end up. That said, the market always gets excited by a fresh-to-market find, and this is the last of the four Monacos on a strap from Le Mans to appear. Sotheby's estimate seems reasonable, and I imagine they'd be thrilled with a seven-figure result.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"One factor that might significantly impact the result is whether the TAG Heuer Museum will participate in the bidding. It already has two McQueen Monaco, so perhaps three is a crowd.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["67f32a38-7223-4108-81ea-04b64ecee3e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"For enthusiasts of McQueen, racing, or vintage chronographs, this watch represents the ultimate addition to any collection – a true 'end game,'\" Geoff Hess, Sotheby's Global Head of Watches, said.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Heuer introduced the Monaco in 1969, one of its initial models to use its first automatic chronograph caliber 11. The blocky Monaco was the avant garde answer to the more traditional Carrera that used the same caliber, taken to by the likes of Stanley Kubrick, Sammy Davis Jr., and perhaps not many more. Thanks to McQueen and Le Mans, it's one of the watches most associated with a celebrity.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ea1ede68-3ff7-4471-af49-3c2268e65aff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The McQueen Heuer Monaco from Le Mans will be part of Sotheby's \"Heuer Champions,\" a selection of vintage chronographs from the brand that'll feature in its December sale. Heuer hasn't gotten much attention on the auction circuit in the wake of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/detailed-analysis-phillips-heuer-parade-jeff-stein/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the 2017 Heuer Parade sale</a>, so I'm excited to see what else Sotheby's will feature in its December catalog.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Sotheby's to Auction Heuer Monaco From Steve McQueen","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"cf7cd9a9-0691-49da-9117-294b9521c065","container_id":13648,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/85887d38-ef4c-48d3-93e9-883a6bf04afd/16x9forHSite16.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"steve mcqueen heuer monaco watch","created_at":"2024-08-13T12:24:47.091-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-13T12:52:31.065-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/85887d38-ef4c-48d3-93e9-883a6bf04afd/16x9forHSite16.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-last-steve-mcqueen-heuer-monaco-from-le-mans-is-coming-to-auction","full_title":"Auctions: The Last Steve McQueen Heuer Monaco From Le Mans Is Coming To Auction","tags":["sothebys","tag-heuer","heuer","auctions"]},{"id":13639,"slug":"crystal-clear-more-than-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-the-watch-crystal","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"Crystal Clear: More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About The Watch Crystal","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-12T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-07T08:05:32.617-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-12T17:16:02.875-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"From vintage acrylic to modern sapphire, there's more than meets the eye (or doesn't) when it comes to the watch crystal. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":25364,"public_token":"49d45abfaecfad5d088a40e03a39b1f4","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a saying in sports that \"a good referee is one you don't notice,\" and sometimes it feels like the same could be said for the watch crystal. But there's so much more to the component that we look straight through than meets the eye (or doesn't).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Over the last century, a few materials have been used to cover the dial, mostly acrylic (or plastic), mineral, or sapphire crystals. Today, sapphire is most commonly used on watches of a certain price point, though appreciation for old-school acrylic continues unabated in corners of the collecting world. It's time the crystal got its shine. Here's more than you probably wanted to know about the history of the crystal, how it's produced, and why some collectors prefer one over the other. I even spoke with a couple of crystal innovators to get a clear vision of the future of acrylic and sapphire.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c67d9f36-ea8c-4c4e-b8a0-41e8c65fee7b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Life In Plastic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Plexiglass, or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), also called acrylic or one of its trade names including Hesalite, Plexiglas, or simply \"plastic\" for shorthand, was developed in 1928 and first commercialized a few years later by chemicals manufacturer Rohm and Hass under the Plexiglas trademark. It was discovered and/or commercialized around the same time by different companies and scientists in Germany, the U.K., and the U.S. Hesalite, most known for its use by Omega in the Moonwatch, is simply a form of plastic that has properties better optimized for its use as a watch crystal. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab9260cc-40ac-46c7-9754-0553ca89e1a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new compound had properties, especially compared to normal glass, that made it immediately useful: flexibility, lightweight, high clarity, and shatter resistance, along with its relative ease of manufacturing (read: cheaper to make).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2676e03c-9efc-452b-b7ba-06019aa43c15"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"During World War II, acrylic glass found all kinds of uses in submarines, aircraft, weapons, and – most importantly, of course – watches. Long gone were the days of trench watches with glass crystals that might shatter if not for those cages or covers to protect the fragile crystal. These glass crystals had already been increasingly replaced when \"unbreakable crystals\" were first introduced in 1915. These unbreakable crystals were made from celluloid, an early, transparent plastic that had the well-known benefits of plastic – moldable, flexible, cheap. Unfortunately for celluloid, it's also highly flammable and shrinks at cold temperatures. When acrylic came along, it was a clear improvement.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After World War II, acrylic crystals became the standard for the watch industry. Vintage Rolex, Patek, Seiko, and pretty much everything in between used plexiglass. Nowadays, this is even seen as part of the charm of these old watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["182ddc18-9fae-421f-bd0c-c3ded80b2aca"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Acrylic crystals are such an integral part of the design for vintage watches,\" says Greg Petronzi, a watchmaker specializing in vintage Rolex. \"Personally, there's a charm in acrylic that you can't get out of sapphire.\" To Petronzi, a vintage Submariner dial can't truly be appreciated unless it's under the right crystal, one that captures the original intent of those who designed the watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"He's so passionate about acrylic that he founded <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://truedome.com//" target=\"_blank\">TrueDome</a>, which has painstakingly reverse-engineered vintage Rolex \"Superdome\" crystals for popular vintage sports models. For enthusiasts, the domed, plastic crystal of these vintage tool watches helps set them apart from the flat sapphire crystals more common in modern watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2aa5294e-1fda-45d9-8c1e-e1e22e5fc903"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Some of this charm also comes from acrylic's perceived shortcomings as the \"old\" crystal, but these vintage watches were still robust and purpose-driven.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Vintage watches became icons because they were quite literally instrumental – unlike their modern, more ornamental counterparts,\" says Lorenzo Ortega, co-founder of Lorier. As something of an ode to this heritage, Lorier has always opted to use Hesalite crystals in its vintage-inspired watches.\n\n\"Hesalite has an inimitable warmth and clarity. It's functionally, rather than superficially, robust. Compared to sapphire, it's also much less likely to shatter,\" Ortega added. Compared to modern sapphire crystals, it's a softer, more gentle look. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d026c976-a4f5-4517-9795-538cb4cd26e5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Plastic crystals have some drawbacks. On the Mohs hardness scale, they're about a 3. If you've ever tapped one with your finger, you know it doesn't feel much stronger than your fingernail (2.5 on the hardness scale). Acrylic also scratches easily. But, it's flexible and tends to bend but not break; those surface-level scratches can also be buffed out with a dab of Polywatch or toothpaste. While acrylic crystals have largely been swapped for sapphire by modern manufacturers, acrylic apologists like Ortega, Petronzi, and – I'll admit – me, insist that plastic crystals can still stand up to modern wear and tear.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"People don't realize that a good acrylic can be really robust,\" Petronzi said. \"For example, a vintage Sea-Dweller or Submariner crystal is a lot thicker than a 1016 [Explorer] crystal.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"How To Make A Plastic Crystal"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["17333cd5-db04-47e1-a434-aa6bdfb5bb1d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Acrylic's flexibility makes it easy and inexpensive for manufacturers to work with. You start with a big sheet of plastic that can then be punched out, formed, polished, and shaped – think of the way you might work with a big sheet of cookie dough during the holidays. Still, serious manufacturers will experiment with different polymers to see how they affect different characteristics.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"With TrueDome, I tested five or six polymers,\" Petronzi said of his experimentation to replicate the feel of those vintage Rolex crystals. \"Each variation yields differences in optical clarity, modulus of elasticity, shock resistance.\" While still cheaper than working with sapphire – which we'll get to – Petronzi says acrylic is \"easy to make cheap, but expensive to make it right.\" It can easily cost five figures and a year of R&D to make one new crystal reference (TrueDome now has six references for various different vintage Rolex models).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e68f116b-3cea-4c5e-a964-2235391b9559"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"We'd take measurements of original Rolex crystals and find there were variations in sidewall thickness, depth of arch, inner and outer diameter,\" Petronzi said. To complicate matters even more, old acrylic shrinks a bit, so you can only get a rough measurement and then go through trial and error – often at the level of hundredths of a millimeter – until the look and fit is right.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Because of these properties, watchmakers today sometimes aren't used to acrylic crystal. Unlike sapphire, acrylic is typically either press-fit into a case or uses a tension ring. With sapphire, the crystal is cut and that's it; because of acrylic's properties, there can be more variation in tolerances.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Mineral Rights"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6b94721d-3cee-4cd1-bf73-d912fd683cc9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"By the mid-20th century, more brands started using mineral crystals on their watches. Made from silica, they have more optical clarity and scratch resistance than acrylic. While they might be more prone to shattering upon hard impact than acrylic, mineral crystals are generally more durable in everyday use.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Even today, mineral crystals are something of an in-between, often used on mid-range watches. The Seiko 5 Sports uses the brand's proprietary Hardlex mineral crystal; many watches from Casio, Timex, and Citizen follow suit.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Eyes Like Sapphires"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b57b032-272d-462c-bb63-cab768a761c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the 1970s, as it became easier and cheaper to make sapphire synetically, watch manufacturers began adopting sapphire crystals as a replacement for acrylic. Rolex started using sapphire in the late '70s, beginning with the Oysterquartz and slowly rolling it out to other model lines through the '80s.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["3251fbb6-db4c-40fb-98e9-c7882c7b5266"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Sapphire has many functional benefits over acrylic crystal: it's harder, scratch-resistant, and durable. On the Mohs hardness scale, it's a 9, just below diamond (10). Sapphire has some drawbacks. It's more reflective and doesn't have the clarity of acrylic; its hardness also makes it more difficult to work with. If it does get a scratch, it can't be easily polished out as with acrylic. But most companies and consumers today seem to think its benefits outweigh any shortcomings.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In fact, the material costs of acrylic and sapphire aren't that different. Instead, the higher cost of sapphire comes down to the tooling and process of producing sapphire crystals. It's because sapphire is so hard (only diamond is harder), that it's more expensive to work with.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Sapphire has to be diamond cut, and then these tools have to be changed after cutting 20 to 25 crystals,\" says Wesley Kwok, founder of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.noduswatches.com//" target=\"_blank\">Nodus Watches</a>. Compare this to acrylic crystals, which can be quickly cut out of a plastic sheet like a Christmas cookie.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f7afb569-ddd6-4e0e-986a-068bcedeb8e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Sapphire for watch crystals is synthetically grown into a fist-sized boule that looks like frosted glass before it's cut and polished into the desired size and shape. We as customers only see the final shape: flat, box, double-domed, and other variations. But for manufacturers, there are two basic ways to cut a sapphire crystal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"There are two fundamental shapes: flat and boxed,\" Kwok said. A box crystal shaves more out of the inside of the crystal. Kwok provided diagrams to illustrate the difference:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["89139817-bcda-4cd5-a9cc-94944c0bba0b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The main benefit of a box crystal is that it allows the hands to sit further up into the crystal cavity; it'll often look like the hands are floating in the middle of the sapphire. The Black Bay 58's domed sapphire crystal is just one example.\n\n\"This also becomes increasingly important with movements that are 'top heavy,' where the bulk of the thickness on the movement is on the top half, such as on the Miyota 9075,\" Kwok said. \n\nBut, these boxed crystals are more costly. First, they use more sapphire: a standard flat crystal might use two or three millimeters of sapphire; a boxed crystal uses about twice as much. A CNC machine is also required to shave and shape the inner crystal, adding to the manufacturing cost.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8d160997-d73c-4ffc-b3dc-e78e2385dc26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The primary functional drawback of sapphire compared to acrylic crystal is that it doesn't have the same clarity. This is why layers of anti-reflective (AR) coating are usually added to the inside of the crystal, often in multiple layers. AR coating is designed to \"cancel out\" the light waves reflecting off the crystal to minimize reflection and glare.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"These AR coatings are often optimized to minimize yellow and red reflection. Since blue sits on the other side of the visible light spectrum, AR coatings typically have a blue tint (or green, as in the case of the Rolex Milgauss 116400GV). Blue is also less distracting to the human eye – some people even like the tint.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f517b3bb-7a16-43ae-9bc2-2ad26d5b31d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Another common argument against sapphire is that, while it's hard and won't scratch or break, if you smack it hard enough, it can shatter.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"If you smack a high-quality acrylic crystal it'll bend and absorb that energy, whereas a sapphire crystal will either shatter or not,\" Petronzi of TrueDome said. Others feel the concern of shattering a modern sapphire crystal is overblown.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"We've had exactly one come back with a broken crystal, and it was dropped on a hard tile,\" Kwok said. \"So to me, that's not a great argument.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Acrylic Vs. Sapphire: Clearly A Matter Of Taste"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2db7d025-85fb-4d04-a13e-d6258d196975"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Most will concede that modern production methods make both sapphire and acrylic crystals more than serviceable for the modern wear of banging away at a keyboard or running an annual Turkey Trot. Some acrylic apologists are even skeptical that sapphire is that much better than plastic.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"To be honest, I think it's marketing more than reality nowadays,\" Petronzi said. \"I'm not sure [sapphire] is actually that much better.\" While the upfront tooling and costs of working with sapphire are expensive, it can pay off on the back end. Once you cut sapphire, you're done – it isn't subject to the shrinking and flexing of plastic that can make it trickier to work with or find the proper fit. This also means the reject rate during quality control also tends to be lower. Petronzi said he's talked to old Rolex watchmakers who said they had three different versions of the same crystal for the same reference, and they never quite knew which would fit the watch on their bench. In a world of cost-cutting, efficiency, and quarterly earnings, that might not work today.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e23afa56-1381-4bca-8f08-893da10ebd23","098f0b49-e897-449e-9158-dfc65dcd9f80"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Still, the modern benefits of sapphire are real and don't require stocking up on Polywatch. Much like the watch itself, crystal preference comes down to the individual.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Personally, I prefer sapphire because I'm rough on my watches, but it's a matter of taste,\" Kwok of Nodus said. With taste in watches feeling as broad as ever, there's plenty of room for both acrylic and sapphire crystals, as companies like TrueDome, Nodus, and Lorier have proven. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A Clear Future"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aaaea661-5533-4da3-ac05-73907f10553a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Most large watch brands continue to use sapphire crystals, with the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and its Hesalite crystal perhaps the most notable exception. (Of course, there's also the sapphire Moonwatch option.) ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But, crystals are an exciting area of development for small brands and companies experimenting with both acrylic and sapphire. For example, Petronzi pointed to Swiss brand Laventure, as well as more affordable options from Baltic and Lorier, as exciting options for enthusiasts who prefer the warmth of vintage plastic crystals. That said, this is mostly limited to smaller and independent brands.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"I'd love to see a bit more experimentation from the bigger brands,\" Petronzi added.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e205f21f-c3b8-4a11-aa3a-6376ec609725"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For Petronzi, meanwhile, TrueDome was born of a different need, but one that's equally important for vintage collectors: a diminishing supply of original plastic crystals. Large brands like Rolex have become increasingly strict on access to service parts, making it difficult for collectors who need a replacement crystal for their vintage Rolex. He acknowledges that it's a niche concern, but for the hardcore collector community, it's important.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"So many enthusiasts understand that having an original crystal really affects the design of their watch,\" he said. \"I'm going to make a crystal for them.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Meanwhile, Kwok said he and Nodus are hard at work figuring out how to engrave sapphire bezel inserts so they can be filled with luminous material to provide a stronger lume signature than current methods. It's these types of ideas, applied to old or well-known materials, that continue to make watches exciting.\n\n\"Aside from the visual quirks, the distinction between the two is largely philosophical,\" editor Cole Pennington <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/comparing-moonwatches/" target=\"_blank\">once wrote</a> when comparing the sapphire and Hesalite Speedies. \"Sometimes the philosophical waffling between two ideologies is far more stressful than just sitting down and choosing one.\"\n\nWhatever you decide is a matter of personal taste, and you can't go wrong either way. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Here's Why Watches Use Sapphire Crystals","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"b01f4ecb-1dd3-4314-9a31-4177476a36bc","container_id":13639,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/507417cd-1c61-4df1-9b0f-038ab008ef7a/DSC_5937.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"history of watch crystals","created_at":"2024-08-07T08:05:32.659-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-08T19:36:08.406-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/507417cd-1c61-4df1-9b0f-038ab008ef7a/DSC_5937.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/crystal-clear-more-than-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-the-watch-crystal","full_title":"In-Depth: Crystal Clear: More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About The Watch Crystal","tags":["in-depth","vintage-watches","sapphire"]},{"id":13642,"slug":"audemars-piguet-announces-three-colorful-new-royal-oak-offshores","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Audemars Piguet Announces Three Colorful New Royal Oak Offshores","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-09T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-08T12:39:07.173-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-09T14:01:37.989-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"And do I kinda dig a 37mm pink-gold Offshore? ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30717,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Audemars Piguet releases new Royal Oaks\" is a headline that we could write at least a few times a year, and there seems to be a general sense of exhaustion for all things Royal Oak, classic though they might be. But also – and at the same time – is a pink gold Royal Oak Offshore in 37mm kind of hot? ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3122fa7a-f8f0-4209-b66c-27c1fe823c29"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Just in time for the last month or so of summer proper, Audemars Piguet, the Royal Oak Company, has introduced three new Royal Oak Offshores. The first Offshore uses a 37mm pink gold case (12.1mm thick) and a grey rubber bezel. It's paired with an ivory grande tapisserie dial with pink-gold hour markers and delivered on a grey rubber strap with a mosaic pattern that, to me, looks a bit like sharkskin (similar to what they used on the Offshore Music Edition). Inside is AP's self-winding caliber 5900 with a 60-hour power reserve that beats at 4 Hz. I get that the Offshore is supposed to be big and beastly, and one must have the wrist size of Sylvester Stallone to ride this ride, but... it looks pretty nice. Retail price: $47,200. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c1f95d9-cb84-4828-9d57-67be08a616c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Next, the 43mm (and 14.4mm thick) Offshore Selfwinding features a stainless steel case with a blue rubber bezel and matching blue rubber strap. New generation smoked blue mega tapisserie (this just means the grid is bigger than, e.g., that seen on the 37mm), and an automatic caliber 4302 with a 70-hour power reserve – there's not much else to say about this one. It's handsome, well-executed, and the smoked blue dial certainly adds something to the traditional tapisserie, even if, on the surface, the idea of a \"blue Royal Oak\" sounds slightly predictable. Mark saw and photographed this new Offshore a few months ago and basically said that, while he's not an Offshore guy, he's gotta admit it's \"kind of cool.\" I concur. Retail price: $27,400.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2fcd9e83-252f-44dc-9513-9625ce97ba50"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, there's a new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph with a 43mm stainless steel case and ceramic pusher and crown. Its 100 meters of water resistance should be enough for most offshore excursions. It has a smoked bronze mega tapisserie pattern with white gold applied hour markers. Inside is AP's automatic caliber 4401, a column wheel flyback chronograph caliber. The chronograph felt fancy compared to the others, so it comes with a brown alligator strap. But if you're feeling frisky (or sweaty), all of these new Offshores also come with an additional black rubber strap. Retail price: $41,600. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This trio of new Royal Oak Offshores isn't going to get the world talking like those tiny <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-mini-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">mini Royal Oaks introduced back in May</a>. But if you're the type of person who tends to use \"summer\" as a verb this time of year, these feel like the perfect watches to wear while you're summering somewhere off the French Riviera. Splash around in the water or play in the sand – no, not that deep! – if you're wearing the 37mm pink gold with its 50m of water resistance. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e6f7ca5d-0b8a-4803-899d-e31cfd7e6a4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I was surprised to be reminded that this is the only 37mm Offshore without any diamonds or that doesn't have a dial <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-offshore/77600TI.OO.A343CA.01.html/" target=\"_blank\">like a music board</a>. Finally, a wearable Offshore for the rest of us. With the traditional Royal Oak, AP has done as good a job as any at offering it in all sizes, no matter your taste. Now, it seems to be extending that philosophy to the Offshore. Small doesn't have to mean diamonds, too. \n\nAnd yes, I get it: How can a watch that was originally christened \"The Beast\" be delivered at a relatively dainty 37mm? To which I say: Don't worry, there are still watches <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ap-offshore-selfwinding-flying-tourbillon-chronograph-intro/" target=\"_blank\">like this</a> in the Offshore lineup. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d92e4875-5495-48a8-bcc2-b5b39666039e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Royal Oak Offshore Reference Number: 77605OK.OO.A101CA.01; 15605SK.OO.A350CA.01; 26420ST.OO.A828CR.01\n\nDiameter: 37mm; 43mm Thickness: 12.1mm; 14.4mm Case Material: Pink gold (37mm); stainless steel (43mm and chronograph) Dial Color: Ivory polished dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern (37mm); smoked blue or bronze dial Mega Tapisserie pattern (43mm and chronograph) Indexes: Applied gold Water Resistance: 50 meters (37mm); 100 meters (43mm and chronograph) Strap/Bracelet: Grey interchangeable rubber strap with mosaic effect, 18-ct pink gold pin buckle (37mm); blue interchangeable rubber strap with AP pin buckle (43mm); brown interchangeable alligator with Oxfrod hand-finished patina and steel pink buckle (chronograph), all with an additional black rubber strap","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da90cc53-b362-4c85-8130-cf2bb7a29222"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Caliber 5900 (37mm); caliber 4302 (43mm); caliber 4401 (chronograph) \n\nCaliber 5900\n\nFunctions: Time and date Diameter: 26.2mm Thickness: 3.9mm Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz Jewels: 29\n\nCaliber 4302\n\nFunctions: Time and date Diameter: 32mm Thickness: 4.9mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz Jewels: 32\n\nCaliber 4401\n\nFunctions: Flyback chronograph Diameter: 32mm Thickness: 6.8mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz Jewels: 40","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $47,200 (37mm); $27,400 (43mm); $41,600 (chronograph)\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html/" target=\"_blank\">visit Audemars Piguet</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Three New Royal Oak Offshores For Summer 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e1546269-4390-4a22-91f4-fb3f330c9351","container_id":13642,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8943c26b-44c9-463b-8989-6e14bc3a57dc/16x9forHSite14.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"audemars piguet royal oak offshores ","created_at":"2024-08-08T12:39:07.242-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-09T12:24:35.702-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8943c26b-44c9-463b-8989-6e14bc3a57dc/16x9forHSite14.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-announces-three-colorful-new-royal-oak-offshores","full_title":"Introducing: Audemars Piguet Announces Three Colorful New Royal Oak Offshores","tags":["audemars-piguet","audemars-piguet-royal-oak-off-shore","introducing"]},{"id":13634,"slug":"market-update-and-talking-vintage-with-eric-wind","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Market Update And Talking Vintage With Eric Wind","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-07T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-06T11:51:30.935-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-07T13:55:13.109-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The vintage expert returns to give us a market update, tell some old stories, and generally get nerdy about watches. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13576,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/61bf147e-2370-4923-bd5f-44a277eee63e?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Today's guest is gentleman dealer Eric Wind of Wind Vintage. Eric was one of the earliest contributors to Hodinkee, writing his first article about the Universal Geneve Polerouter way back in 2010.\n\nOver the years, he published the weekly \"Bring A Loupe\" column and you probably also recognize him from his multiple Reference Points appearances – Speedmaster, GMT-Master, Explorer, and Submariner – and his <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUgOUVREkJs\%22 target=\"_blank\">two talks</a> for the Horological Society of New York. \n\nAfter his time as a Hodinkee contributor, Eric joined Christie's as a VP and Senior Specialist of Watches. In 2017 he set out on his own with Wind Vintage. Nowadays, you surely recognize his wrist and white cuff, always adorned with a rare or beautiful vintage watch.\n\nEric tells a few stories about putting together those epic Reference Points, then we talk about the current vintage watch market, his modern watch collabs, and a charitable auction coming this December that he's involved in. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"8A9UJeKf-CY","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.windvintage.com//" target=\"_blank\">Wind Vintage</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/ericmwind/" target=\"_blank\">Eric's Instagram</a>\n\n3:58: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points/" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points: Rolex Submariner</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional/" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points: Omega Speedmaster</a>\n\n8:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.fhs.swiss/eng/statistics.html/" target=\"_blank\">FHH Monthly Report on Swiss Watch Exports</a>\n\n9:00: Half-year financial reports for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.swatchgroup.com/en/investors-space/annual-report/" target=\"_blank\">Swatch Group</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.richemont.com/investors/results-reports-presentations//" target=\"_blank\">Richemont</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.lvmh.com/en/financial-calendar/2024-first-half-results/" target=\"_blank\">LVMH</a>\n\n9:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://watchcharts.com//" target=\"_blank\">Watch Charts</a>\n\n12:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-pink-dor-dial-reference-3941j-unpolished-extract/" target=\"_blank\">Patek 3941J with \"doré\" dial</a>\n\n22:45: Tropical Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer that sold at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6085824?ldp_breadcrumb=back\%22 target=\"_blank\">Christie's in 2017</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer-seafarer/NY080124/102 /" target=\"_blank\">Phillips in 2021</a>\n\n25:49: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.windvintage.com/heuer-white-whale-carrera-reference-2447s-/" target=\"_blank\">Example of a Heuer 2447S with \"eggshell dial\"</a>\n\n28:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-big-crown-submariner-reference-5510-unpolished/" target=\"_blank\">Eric's unpolished Rolex Submariner 5510</a> \n\n29:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.windvintage.com/blog/collectors-guide-rolex-submariner-reference-5512/" target=\"_blank\">Collector's Guide To The Rolex Submariner 5512</a>\n\n29:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-vintage-rolex-submariner-5513/" target=\"_blank\">Collector's Guide To The Rolex Submariner 5513</a>\n\n39:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seikos-new-collab-with-rowing-blazers-is-a-stroke-of-genius/" target=\"_blank\">The Rowing Blazers Seiko 5 Collab</a>\n\n39:17: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-watches-from-merci-x-tracksmith-and-maurice-de-mauriac-x-racquet/" target=\"_blank\">Eric's collaboration with Tracksmith and Merci</a>\n\n40:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/introducing-rowing-blazers-x-zodiac-harrys-bar-super-sea-wolf/" target=\"_blank\">Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Harry's Bar Super Sea Wolf</a>\n\n40:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-zodiac-rowing-blazers-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Zodiac x Rowing Blazers \"Trading Places\" GMT</a>\n\n47:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://laviolettefoundation.org//" target=\"_blank\">Brian LaViolette Foundation</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Interview With Vintage Expert Eric Wind","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e6d301a3-1d89-47ef-9e72-1dd19000f1d3","container_id":13634,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e4854d7d-469b-42f2-9733-20eb389b5f96/H-Radio-Article-Hero-021.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"eric wind hodinkee radio","created_at":"2024-08-06T11:51:31.000-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-06T14:53:17.809-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e4854d7d-469b-42f2-9733-20eb389b5f96/H-Radio-Article-Hero-021.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/market-update-and-talking-vintage-with-eric-wind","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Market Update And Talking Vintage With Eric Wind","tags":["hodinkee-radio","vintage-watches"]},{"id":13626,"slug":"west-hollywood-dealer-ken-jacobs-on-embracing-vintage-style-for-40-plus-years","column_slug":"four_one","title":"West Hollywood Dealer Ken Jacobs On Embracing Vintage Style For 40-Plus Years","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-05T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-31T15:49:55.815-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-05T14:26:28.466-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The Wanna Buy A Watch? founder shares some of his favorite vintage watches and a few thoughts on a lifetime of dealing.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":21407,"public_token":"cb87fc9bf2d12331ce6f78b245d47008","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Ken Jacobs started West Hollywood vintage watch store Wanna Buy A Watch? in the early 1980s, but you'd hardly know he's been in the business for more than 40 years. His energy and passion for all things – watches in particular – will have you in admiration like watching a Simone Biles floor routine or a tourbillon whir around a dial for the first time. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While he spent his early childhood collecting all kinds of little things, Jacobs didn't find vintage watches until after completing his PhD in clinical psychology and practicing for a few years. On Sundays, he'd head to the Rose Bowl Flea Market in Pasadena, CA, to trade coins. That's where he found pocket watches and the lightbulb immediately went off. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rescapement.com/blog/interview-hollywood-dealer-ken-jacobs-of-wanna-buy-a-watch/" target=\"_blank\">first time</a> I ever spoke with him, he described watches as three-dimensional, compared to coins, which he said were \"two-dimensional and static.\" Sorry, coin collectors. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92bb2af0-63c5-4fb0-9b9a-5446ba31a13a","60bd386f-8b18-4ed4-a237-9ae596a80b5b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a1590d31-752b-492c-8c62-866da7c41848"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"From pocket watches, he soon found wristwatches. In those early days, Jacobs was attracted to the design and aesthetic of these old watches, with a particular focus on Art Deco era, often rectangular watches from brands like Hamilton or Elgin. \n\n\"Daytonas were $500 when I started and would sit unsold,\" he said. A shift started to happen when collectors began consolidating their rolls of rectangular American wristwatches into a couple of Rolex Bubblebacks or vintage Patek watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Eventually, this interest shifted to the sports watches that define today's vintage Rolex collecting. Through all the shifts and trends, Jacobs and his store have continued to be an epicenter for vintage collectors in Los Angeles.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I've always enjoyed having a retail store and creating a beautiful, inviting, comfortable environment,\" Jacobs said. \"The world has changed drastically and the amount of info available is daunting. The endless introduction of new product can be exhausting and I don't try to keep up. Frankly, I'm grateful that Wanna Buy A Watch? is still relevant. We may not be cutting edge and we don't sell the most expensive watches in the world, but we continue to hunt for and offer cool watches that are fun to own and wear, whether you're a long-time collector or you're coming in for the first time.\"\n\nJacobs is a legend in the business and has a lifetime of stories – here are just a few of them. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Four"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1530"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"From a few feet a way, you'd think the Rolex Ref. 1530 is an Oysterquartz, the Crown's famed foray into quartz watchmaking. But while it uses the same angular case shape, it actually uses an automatic movement. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3aa63ca-d519-4854-a451-f49d76065f44"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"It's a real niche reference that no one wanted 10 or 15 years ago,\" Jacobs said. \"And now it's the cat's meow.\" ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I offered that this example was a real \"Ken Jacobs dial,\" with the silver dial taking on a heavy, warm patina and the outer track even showing a bit of rust. Jacobs is known to love watches that have aged gracefully (and sometimes even not) – he loves character, patina, and personality, and this 1530 has all of that. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["668f5caa-cfd4-47e8-a73b-09c2b629361b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The day I visited Jacobs at Wanna Buy A Watch?, this was the watch on his wrist and he treats it as a daily wearer.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"This model seems really prone to having the dial patina to a warm, golden color,\" he said. While this dial started silver, it almost looks champagne now. It's the perfect, patinated, and slightly under-the-radar reference for a long-time vintage dealer. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f2aee363-cdde-45ab-89e0-0effc7bc066d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"I'm definitely a dial guy,\" Jacobs said. \"But in the Day-Date universe, so often our clients want a plain, champagne dial. But I love to find things that are unusual or not common.\"\n\nA black dial Rolex Day-Date isn't the most unusual watch in the world, but it's just enough off the well-trodden champagne path that some clients are willing to give it a spin.\n\n\"The Day-Date used to be the CEO watch and now it's become the fashion watch,\" Jacobs said. Thanks to Rolex's marketing and general ubiquity, when people think Day-Date they think champagne dial, and that's what drives their desire. \n\n\"As a dealer, I'm looking for something exotic or unusual, but it's often the familiar or recognizable that people actually want.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This is a yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038 so-called \"single quick\" – the date is quickset but the day is not. The patina on the hands and dial has a nice warmth to it, and a black dial Day-Date is relatively uncommon. Beyond that, it's tough to beat the classic yellow-gold/black dial combo. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Hamilton Fontainebleau"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a117b68b-ee18-4b20-9340-ada7f5e49815"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":" \n\n\"My entry into the wristwatch business in the early '80s was about a whole vintage aesthetic,\" Jacobs said. \"Old jeans, Hawaiian shirts, neon clocks; when I started in the business I didn't even wear a watch.\" \n\nBut when he discovered the Art Deco designs of Hamilton, Gruen, Illinois, and others he fell in love. \n\n\"It wasn't necessarily about the value. I wasn't dealing in Patek or even Rolex because they were round and plain and not that interesting,\" he said. Instead, he was drawn to this era of rectangular watches with fancy details and lugs, two-tone dials, stylized fonts. It was strictly about the style and design. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d476ba33-2f79-40e7-a2ba-1be979c62019"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"This is a Hamilton Fontainebleau, a model I'd never even seen before,\" Jacobs said. While he was familiar with the ellipse-shaped Fontainebleau, the modern, architectural, Monaco-like shape of this one spoke to him. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This one's new old stock with its original hangtag, box, and bracelet, making the sharp angles of the case even more striking. For me, I found it charming that, even after a lifetime in watches, Jacobs can still come across a model he's never seen before. It's not that it's expensive or rare, but learning something new (and finding something NOS) that keeps watches exciting for Jacobs. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Longines Majetek"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a768dd6e-dd4a-40be-a752-c6e8945d1d9a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the 1920s and '30s, Longines became known for its pilot's watches, found on the wrists of aviators such as Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, and Philip Van Horn Weems. In 1935, it began supplying watches to the Czechoslovakian Air Force. The Longines Majetek has a massive cushion-shaped case, flat bezel, and oversized luminous numerals, capped off with its subtle elapsed time bezel (see the arrow at 12 o'clock in the above photo).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"It's the first one I've had in 10 or 15 years,\" Jacobs said. He explained that Longines, in particular the Majetek, is relatively uncommon to find in the U.S., and he remembers when dealers would make the trek to trade shows in Munich and come back with unfamiliar watches like the Majetek. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While its history with Czech aviators is interesting, Jacobs says he loves it for the same reason he loves any other watch – it's all about the style. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The One"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1920s Rolex Retailer Sign"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"If you walk into Wanna Buy A Watch? on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood, a couple of signs stand out. The first is the large Gruen sign sitting over its front door. The other is an Art Deco-era \"Rolex Lever Watches\" sign that sits towards the back of the show room. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["343aca8d-7506-4cb5-99fe-ca57dd06d9ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"This sign once hung outside of Birt's Jewelry Store in South London,\" Jacobs said. He added that the 18 world's records on the sign would date it to about 1929 or 1930. He acquired the sign from an antique dealer more than 25 years ago and it's adorned the shop ever since. They even had to rewire it to work with U.S. electrical wiring. Now, it's an offbeat piece of watch history. Wanna Buy A Watch? is full of these: JLC table lamp clocks, Cartier boudoir clocks, and all kinds of other watch miscellaneous and memorabilia. But this sign continues to stand out. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"It's our real pride and joy and we're lucky to have it,\" Jacobs said. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Check out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://wannabuyawatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">Wanna Buy A Watch? online</a> or visit the physical store at 8441 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, CA 90069. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"An Interview With Wanna Buy A Watch And Ken Jacobs","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":168,"slug":"four_one","name":"Four + One","description":"A different look at collections of note. Interesting and inspiring people from a wide array of backgrounds and professions share four of their own watches, plus one other thing they love. Each subject collects in a different way and for different reasons, but passion is the common denominator. ","sort_order":2,"created_at":"2021-01-18T14:52:53.248-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-05T12:42:36.632-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"50e0af85-2562-400e-9f04-6e28a9f7f059","container_id":13626,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c47b9124-07cb-40f8-8fe5-67bf0ecdfff3/DSC_4444-3.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"ken jacobs wanna buy a watch?","created_at":"2024-07-31T15:49:55.978-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-31T15:50:54.768-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c47b9124-07cb-40f8-8fe5-67bf0ecdfff3/DSC_4444-3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/west-hollywood-dealer-ken-jacobs-on-embracing-vintage-style-for-40-plus-years","full_title":"Four + One: West Hollywood Dealer Ken Jacobs On Embracing Vintage Style For 40-Plus Years","tags":["vintage-watches","four-plus-one","los-angeles"]},{"id":13611,"slug":"hands-on-retro-furlan-marri-disco-volante","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Retro Furlan Marri Disco Volante","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-31T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-24T11:05:43.820-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-31T13:20:52.595-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The flying saucer zooms back to the future. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":17636,"public_token":"52571dfbd5ec17445aee4f24112f60f3","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"For some reason, Furlan Marri caught fire with its first release in 2021. That watch, a meca-quartz Patek 1463 homage for a few hundred bucks, seemed to be just what many enthusiasts wanted during those frothy pandemic years. At the time, I was a simple enthusiast sitting in Chicago and even had a healthy bit of skepticism about this new Furlan Marri brand – after all, why on Earth would a meca-quartz homage that costs 300 bucks resell for like $1,000?","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Not that any of this was Furlan Marri's fault. As we now know, it was the product of a confluence of things that we need not repeat again here, except to say that I don't think it'll happen again soon, though these last few crazy weeks might portend otherwise.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5ce03d4d-b466-4d99-8b12-bf8263312789"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the three years since that first release, Furlan Marri has come into its own. While still nominally an homage brand, its more recent releases have evolved from 1:1 interpretations of classics to modern takes on vintage favorites.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Furlan Marri's latest release, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-furlan-marri-disco-volante/" target=\"_blank\">Disco Volante</a> – \"flying saucer\" in Italian – plays on 20th century watches dating back to the Art Deco era that you can find in catalogs from Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron, and others. Perhaps the most notable Disco Volante was Audemars Piguet's ref. 5093, which I coincidentally (I swear!) <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-far-out-audemars-piguet-disco-volante/" target=\"_blank\">just wrote about last week</a>. While my hands-on time with that vintage AP was purely coincidental and not some plot by the Disco Volante Complex (at least I don't think), it did provide a helpful reference when thinking about Furlan Marri's modern take on the flying saucer. The Furlan Marri Disco Volante is a well-executed, modern take on the old-school idea. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b4274a9c-454d-4d8b-8faf-2f4c3854adde"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["85e059b6-848d-446d-b0fe-1c79190cef4f","1b60a882-826b-4464-92d4-279c2d0865f9"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Furlan Marri Disco Volante is larger than most vintage interpretations, measuring 38mm in diameter and 8.95mm thick (I love when brands will round to hundredths to make sure we know it's under 9mm, but I confirmed the dimensions with my calipers). The lugs are hidden under the overhanging bezel and measure 32mm lug-to-lug, though I'm not sure L2L matters on a watch like this.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e855fccf-944a-414e-8baf-6c3bccf66e28"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f8f4fcd0-80b0-4d09-9b1e-6dc399c43e0d","d1a66abe-2b10-4049-b14a-b333dc9e5179"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Disco Volante comes in three colors: Havana (salmon/brown), Celeste (blue/white), and Verde (green/cream). The sector-style dial has four parts with applied markers at the quarter hour, interrupted by the small seconds at 6 o'clock. The outer tracks have a metallic brushed finish, while the center of the dial is matte. The hands are polished and elegant, and might be a touch short, though the dial is already a bit busy and might look cluttered with longer hands.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Discos Havana and Verde use Old Radium SuperLumiNova to match their old-school vibe, while the blue Celeste uses extra-powerful white BGW9. You don't notice until you dim the lights, but in addition to filling the hands, lume lines each of the dial's tracks. It's a cool effect and probably the biggest modern take on a classic detail of the Disco Volante.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d67df119-907d-4ad5-a906-352bce069484"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The stainless-steel case has a multi-stepped bezel, and the lugs are tucked underneath, invisible when looking at the watch from above. The crown is hidden inside the bezel – good for symmetry but bad for functionality, making it a bit of a hassle to wind. Each model comes with two straps that have curved lugs to fit flush against the case, all with quick-release spring bars. This strap integrates nicely with the case, their attachment completely hidden and the strap seemingly appearing out of nowhere from below.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["80f6da2a-54d7-4ea3-9fbd-644442ac59fe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Visible through the caseback is Furlan Marri's take on the manual wind Peseux 7001. It's a pretty standard movement, but the brand has reworked the bridges and added some handsome finishing, including Geneva stripes, black-polished screws, and hand-polished bevels. The Peseux 7001 measures 2.5mm and has a 42-hour power reserve, beating at 3 Hertz. Furlan Marri's motto \"Crafted with Care / Designed for Details\" adorns the case band and is a little corny but otherwise unobtrusive.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b42ba4bb-88af-469f-b1e6-5a0c06893d5c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In part, the stronger lume on the blue Celeste makes it my favorite of the trio. Taken together, the Celeste is the most modern of the three. While the Disco Volante is a play on its vintage predecessors, it's this modern take that feels most in line with the original ethos of the Disco Volante – forward looking and a bit daring. The other two colors lean more heavily into their classic inspiration.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I thought the Disco Volante might wear more like a curiosity or novelty than it does. After all, it's still a round watch, just one without visible lugs. In that way, it's at least a familiar experience. The case is thin and the lugs are designed to make sure the strap curves around the wrist. It's not really a fair comparison to that vintage AP Disco Volante. That watch is 50 years old, gold, half as thick, and has a strap (impractically) screwed directly into its case.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It wears just about right on my 6.3-inch wrist:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a3f00ab3-dbf8-479a-adc5-29bd21f13125"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As you can see, the hidden lugs prop up the thin case just a bit on my 6.3-in. wrist. It can handle wrists a bit larger than my 6.3-in. wrist, but at some point I'm sure it'll start to look more like a quarter than a flying saucer.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f245fc31-40e4-4f53-a6af-3b838eea25bc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Furlan Marri Disco Volante costs $2,780 and joins the brand's permanent collection, available for pre-order now on its site. It's a step up in pricing for Furlan Marri, comparable in price to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-furlan-marri-revolution-montanari-mechanical-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Furlan Marri's latest chronograph</a> and nearly 2x <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-furlan-marri-three-hands/" target=\"_blank\">the Sector</a>. But if you want a disco volante, you've now got exactly one modern option.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond that, the fit and finish of the Disco Volante seem to live up to the price increase. While the Peseux 7001 is a common movement, Furlan Marri's take on it is not, and it seems to be building to even more exciting things inside its watches with the redesign and finishing flourishes here. For example, I'm excited to see what comes of the innovative perpetual calendar mechanism seen <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-an-innovative-secular-perpetual-calendar-from-furlan-marri-says-about-the-future-of-complicatio/" target=\"_blank\">in its Only Watch</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1baaf1a1-ba95-4d8a-af27-a4f11a426830"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While Furlan Marri launched as a brand making strict homages, it's used its initial excitement to build something more. Its last few releases have taken vintage cues, but remixed them in ways that are distinctly Furlan Marri. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.furlanmarri.com//" target=\"_blank\">Furlan Marri Disco Volante</a> has a stepped stainless steel case measuring 38 x 8.95mm. Available in three colors: Havana (salmon/brown), Celeste (blue/white), and Verde (green/cream). The Disco Volante uses the manual-wind Peseux 7001 customized by Furlan Marri, including redesigned bridges hand-finished edges, and hand-beveling in Geneva. Delivered on two leather straps with curved spring bars. 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This all makes Intersect a bit different than a typical \"trade show.\" Watches are still for sale and some were certainly sold, but it's more of a hangout.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3c085541-1e6f-4af2-898a-04ac17924028"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I had a camera the whole day and saw a bit of everything: brands exhibiting, but also watches on the wrists of enthusiasts coming from all across southern California for the hang. Hosted in an airy second floor above a brewery serving craft beers and surprisingly good New York-style pizza, the vibe was relaxed. While it was busy, there was space for those who wanted to hang out for a while and chat about their own watches. Instead of making money on the show itself, the participating brands simply split the operating cost, which means it's a little more laid back and there's less pressure to make the show \"worth it.\" \n\nIntersect's next show will be in Austin, Texas, in November – stay tuned to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.intersectwatchshow.com/austin/" target=\"\">their site</a> for details and enjoy these photos from the L.A. edition. 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