Editor — Benjamin Clymer

TimeZone.com about the A-Series, though you can still find <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://web.archive.org/web/20150511121612/http://people.timezone.com/library/extras/201012035459/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">it via the WayBackMachine</a>.\nI love the Royal Oak. Hell, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/event-recap-hodinkee-celebrates-the-40th-anniversary-of-the/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">we even hosted one of the nights of its 40th anniversary ten years ago in NYC</a>. I think it’s the realest of the real when it comes to high-end sports watches. For as long as I’ve been able to afford it, and indeed quite a bit of time before, I had a Royal Oak Jumbo in my watch collection. And that will never change.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b0354673-d670-4593-af75-c4fb417d7ba2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I'm not alone here. Audemars Piguet is now a billion-dollar watch brand, one of the five most valuable in the world. Their watches, almost all of them (!), trade for close to retail, or in the case of its steel Royal Oaks, well above. A deep, scientific study of the matter (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chrono24.com/search/index.htm?query=15202&dosearch=true&searchexplain=1&watchTypes=&accessoryTypes=\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">called one quick search on Chrono24.com</a>) tells me that the 15202 in steel is now being offered at around $100,000. Its suggested retail price, or what I like to call, \"the amount of money that the people who make the watch you want to buy are telling you it's actually worth\" is clearly seen on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">AP's website</a>: 26,700CHF, or $29,600 at today's conversion rate. That's a massive delta, isn't it?\nThey weren’t always so popular. I have clear memories of friends outside the watch world (yes, those exist, or they did), back in 2010 truly not being impressed at all by the Royal Oak. Saying “you paid how much for THAT?” I remember a visit from my friend Robert-Jan (you know, the Speedy guy) in NYC just after he'd bought a 15202 with white dial in what feels like it must've been 1998, but what was probably more like 2010, and his wife declaring \"that watch is so 1970s!\" I also remember all of the Royal Oaks, including the 15202, regularly trading for well below retail the world over. It was glorious! One of the most special watches in the world could actually be had. The Jumbo, the watch that most closely connected present to past, was not at all what people wanted.\nHere's an example: A<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-audemars-piguet-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with-5329147/?from=searchresults&intObjectID=5329147\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"> 15202 selling at Christie's in 2010 for $10,625 against an estimate of $6,000-$8,000</a>. Retail at the time, I believe, was around $14,100. The only people who wanted a Jumbo were the nerds like me, and the OGs from the Purists and Timezone forums (shout out to my brother in AP love Howard Parr!). Customers, at scale, wanted Offshores. I have clear memories of a friend (who is now part of the watch industry) telling me I was crazy to pay $12,000 for a 14802ST Jubilee with \"what is that, a freaking pink dial??\" The price for that watch now? <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chrono24.com/audemarspiguet/royal-oak--id18325296.htm/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Right</a>.\nIn 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-chronograph-review/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">when I wrote this detailed look at the brand of AP (which I just re-read and re-learned a few things from</a>), I said that basically the rich dudes who didn't care about watches wore Offshores – and us geeks wore Jumbos. After all, the brief from then AP CEO Stephen Urquhart (yes the guy who preceded Raynald at Omega, too) as \"A Royal Oak For Young People\", and that's effectively what they got when it came to market in 1993. And it worked really well.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"To generalize on a potentially embarrassingly wide level,  while the collectors wear the Royal Oak line of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/1/16/introducing-the-new-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-jumbo-complete.html/">Jumbos and perpetuals, the other guys wear the other stuff.  What I mean by the other stuff is, well, to put it easily, the Offshores.","source":"Me, In 2014."},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"Anyway, so tastes have evolved and now the Jumbo, which was always popular with the nerds, is popular with everyone. To an extreme degree. And that should be cool, right? We did our job and now the things that should be appreciated, are.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f4dbf02a-e1e4-43da-8363-16ebe97acf65"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"So when <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-jumbo-extra-thin-ref-15202-in-platinum-with-green-dial-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">my man Stacey introduced the Royal Oak Jumbo (reference 15202PT) in platinum in March of this year</a>, I expected the feedback to be something like “Oh sh!t, this is the grailiest of grails!”. After all, the watch takes what is universally recognized as the premier model from Audemars Piguet (one of the hottest brands in the world at the moment) and dialed it up to 11 with a solid platinum case – a relative rarity for the “Jumbo” – a watch that has seen myriad variations since its creation in 1972 and very few in platinum. But that wasn’t the case. Some sample comments below:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7591c9b4-9aa2-4d31-bae3-66e4cac63ec9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["78c0523d-1b8a-47d9-92df-81f5e1878b4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9774b289-8a0a-4331-a2e3-312eb0e3ea43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Wait. What? People were salty, and I mean saltier than the standard high-grade brine that the watch-internet usually puts out there. They weren't necessarily mad about the watch, or the price. How could they be? It's basically the same watch that's existed for 49 years in the heaviest of precious metals with a new (cool to me but not to all, it seems) dial form.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d6c46d5d-4701-4290-adb5-a6d67c9c6262"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If I were to summarize, the overall feedback was \"who cares - no one will be able to buy this watch anyway,\" punctuated with odd remarks about how \"weak\" the movement was and how it lacked water resistance thrown in there as ... a coping mechanism? Those are two criticisms that could have been levied at the Jumbo for the past 49 years and haven't been, so that tells me the audience was on one that day and just a little turnt up at the perception that this watch is effectively unattainable.\nAnd so I started to think about what AP, and the Royal Oak – even the Jumbo – represent to the community now. In the old days, this watch was a nerdy underdog available at retail whenever you wanted, selling below retail all over. You, as an early internet watch geek, had a home with AP and it was called the Jumbo. No matter how many limited Offshores AP did, nor how many Rick Ross album covers featured them, nor whether Ari wore one or not, your home was the Jumbo. And now, if you wanted to buy one – in steel, gold, or platinum – you'd likely be told to kick rocks.\nIs AP, or the Jumbo in particular, like that awkward-in-his-teens, secretly athletic friend you had in high school that you always stuck by even in those really weird moments, only to have him/her leave you high and dry the minute they become popular? Or conversely are we, the watch-buying public, to blame for who / what AP is today? To be clear who/what AP is, is a beloved brand with peak international appeal and continuing record sales. And while a few moments of pubescent awkwardness still linger, the brand continues to innovate with some stellar product (I'm looking at you, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-code-1159-grande-sonnerie-carillon-supersonnerie-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">SuperSonnerie</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-selfwinding-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-live-pics-pricing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">RD2</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-ceramic-royal-oak-in-depth/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">all those openwork watches and ceramic watches</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/giulio-papi-explains-the-royal-oak-concept-laptimer-michael-schumacher-limited-edition-from-audemars/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">who could forget the epic Laptimer</a>?). So, from their perspective, they're doing *just fine* and I don't think we can expect any wild deviations to their strategies any time soon.\nBut back to the product, we, as a community, have not rewarded AP for doing exactly what we've always criticized them for – trying new things.\nNo matter what you think about Code (a whole other story that may or may not be written down the road), AP is still playing the hits and doing things in a very cool way for the nerds with its aforementioned models – and with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-remaster01-in-depth/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the WONDERFUL (Re)Master01</a>. That's another story I'd write if I had the time: How is this watch not selling for way above retail? The amount of time and thought put into it is probably, oh, I don't know, thousands of times the amount of hours and effort put into the platinum Royal Oak. And yet, it's still around at retail.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e6a19be3-2cc5-469c-abc7-b97b105ba5d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"And then <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">there's the Black Panther Concept</a>. What's left to say, really? A lot, but to me, the salient points are the following: 1.) The very idea of this watch is so strange it's hard to believe it's real. 2.) AP just dropped a Concept, arguably their most interesting line, in the smallest size (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-ladies-royal-oak-concept-flying-tourbillon-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">notwithstanding the diamond-covered 38.5mm Concept</a>) and lowest price point yet. 3.)AP is making a play to make their brand known to everyone, and considering that, taking the Marvel route makes some sense, as odd as the execution was. 4.) AP's CEO Francois-Henry Benhammias still DNGAF what you think. And that's exactly why AP is in the incredible position they are in today. When you're going toe-to-toe to Patek Philippe, you've gotta make some noise. And he's world-class at that. Proof? <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://timeandtidewatches.com/ap-royal-oak-concept-black-panther//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Here are four of the most famous people on the planet wearing that watch</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The other question to consider is this: Are brands really to blame for the simple economics of supply and demand in the watch world? Or are platforms like HODINKEE, Instagram, and others that tend to homogenize desire also to blame? If you could go out and buy a 15202ST at retail right now, or any day of the week, just like you can with, say, 99% of other watches in production – would you? I can say with authority that you would not. I know this because for the vast majority of my career in watches, you could. And most of you did not do that. You waited until you heard the 15202 was impossible to get to start lusting for one. I'm not necessarily referring to you \"you\" as the HODINKEE reader, but more \"you\" as the average guy on the street who's loosely into watches.\nSomething else to remember is that brands do not make a single cent on grey-market sales. Once the watch goes at retail, all the dollars made above that MSRP belong to other people. So it's not necessarily fair to critique brands for grey-market dealers and flippers asking the prices they do. I've been there – asked directly by HODINKEE readers what we can do about flippers of our Limited Editions when \"real fans\" miss out on them. Man, it's not that easy to delineate consumers who want to give you money for something nobody needs – to figure out who loves stuff \"for the right reasons.\" We can't assume that if someone is selling a watch it's because he or she always intended to flip it for profit – as opposed to someone simply not falling in love with the watch they just bought or having other personal motives to sell. Playing this guessing game is also not good business. Which, of course, AP is. A damn good one.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202PT \"Jumbo\""},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3f11c03c-e98e-4636-93af-590ce24ec699"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Okay, on to the task at hand: A direct discussion of the 15202PT from a hardcore lover of the Royal Oak, especially in light of its unfavorable feedback. I think the criticism came largely because it IS a Jumbo, which in the past was really geared towards the true enthusiasts, but it's now in platinum, which brought what seems to be latent bitterness toward AP to the surface in our comments.\nI was so interested to see this watch in the metal that I actually asked Audemars Piguet if I could borrow it for an afternoon. It's been years since I made such a request to any watch brand, and AP was nice enough to send one down for us to photograph for an hour or two. The result is this: It's a Royal Oak, but in platinum. And it is as exquisitely finished as any factory-fresh Royal Oak should be. Damn, it was nice.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["82bc3f9e-6258-44cf-b652-2c3025bf1310","e0da5514-b9ad-4d4b-a5b7-7d0a7f3d8722"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I could pretty much end the review (or whatever this story is) right there because if you've seen any 15202, you know exactly what this watch is. But sometimes a watch is far greater than the sum of its parts. The only place where this one loses the plot a little is, not unexpectedly, the dial. Should a Royal Oak have a Tapisserie dial? Sure. But also, who says? The green sunburst is really rich in person. In bright light, it almost glows.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fa4b7c67-1655-4138-9f69-72fac228574a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"body":"AP made the 14802 Jubilee Royal Oak in platinum with a blue stone dial – and 11 years ago, you could've bought one for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2010/important-watches-ge1001/lot.120.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">around the price of a steel 15202 at retail today</a>. Here's a tissue.","title":"Did You Know?","images":["51b20938-8c18-4140-966f-b802c1f89795"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"I think it's important to point out that platinum watches have always had slightly different treatments to their dials than all other metals. In fact, I remember sitting at Cafe Cluny with William Massena in probably 2011, and he took a Royal Oak off his wrist to show me – it was a 14802 in platinum, with a crazy blue stone dial. Of course, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/royal-oak-jumbo-extra-thin-platinum-with-diamond-indexes-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">AP showed us the Japanese-only 15202PT with black dial (non-tapisserie) with diamond markers in 2020</a>. So people saying that a Royal Oak needs to have a particular kind of dial would be correct, unless we're talking about platinum-cased Royal Oaks.\nStill, I associate a platinum Jumbo with William in my mind simply because it was the first time I ever saw one, so I thought I'd ask him his thoughts on this new guy, and on AP in general.\n\"Do I like the 15202 platinum? Sure, I absolutely think it is a beautiful watch but will I put myself on the waiting list for it? Not really because I think that there are much more interesting and unique watches out there. I hate to be the jaded guy saying 'been there and done that' but the only person I need to impress with a new purchase is me.\"\nWhat else would you expect from William, really?\nAnd for good measure, I asked John M. his thoughts, too, as surely one of the most high profile, long-term fans of AP in the world. \"So, John, what do you think of the new platinum Jumbo, and why do you think people were kinda salty over it?\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"Of course a 15202PT with a green dial is beautiful. It’s effortlessly desirable, and the only way to win when you see something you want and can’t have is to stop wanting it, and the only way to stop wanting it is to convince yourself you don’t like it.\r\nMy advice: Look at the watch, have a smile, admire its no-brainer beauty and scroll on.","source":"John Mayer"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"Aha. There it is. We're all just a little mad that we love it and we know we can't have it. Which is a theme that I think AP fans know well.\nNow I will admit that half of my interest in seeing the 15202PT was to see how it stacked up against one of my absolute favorite watches of the past five years: The 15202BC.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a293bfaf-b88b-4785-b21c-5e240190b830"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As expected, the white gold Royal Oak with its \"freaking pink\" dial had a softer, lighter feel versus the heavy platinum. The BC feels vintage-y and warm, whereas the PT is cold and mean (in a great way). The dial color alone really does make a huge difference in how a Royal Oak wears – I think of the Royal Oak as a rich man's slap bracelet – because I know quite a few guys who wear them in the same manner, matching their color of Royal Oak to their outfits and moods. Strangely, the BC and PT variations of the 15202 really are mood specific, while the blue/grey dial of the 15202 is universally wearable and great. It makes sense that that's the dial color of the standard model, and white gold got the warm, vintage-y vibe, while platinum got something cooler and more pointed.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Now me being the RO nerd that I am, I had a few more questions about this watch. One of them was inspired by none other than Jean-Claude Biver, who was among the first to receive his platinum Jumbo. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CM5EUdMDKH2//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">He posted about it here and said \"Special because this watch was created to commemorate 50 years of Royal Oak.</a>\" It's funny, we are at year 49 of the Royal Oak and no doubt next year will be a blow-out for the iconic model, but nobody had mentioned anything about this being a celebratory piece. So I pinged one of the best guys I know in the industry, a long-time friend, Mr. Michael Friedman, who also happens to be AP's head of complications about it. The answer – this watch is not an anniversary piece.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 15202PT is not a limited edition, nor is it numbered in any way – that's similar to the 15202BC, which is made in no more than 75 examples per year. But that doesn't mean they're out there. The price is $105,400, or almost double the price of the white-gold watch. A ton of money, no doubt, but that's a heck of a lot of platinum and as Jack has extolled here for years, working in platinum is a whole different thing than in gold or steel, and here we're talking about a solid, incredibly highly finished bracelet – and clasp, too.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["eaeabdad-10d0-4681-b2c4-6a450add1629","4a4e899e-dc26-4d3e-96f2-843f1b103281"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Still, let's say you have the coin, and you want the watch. Is it even a possibility if you're not a long-standing client of AP? Instead of going the official routes, which often get watered down, I had a friend pick up the phone and call a boutique. And then another, and then another. This was his feedback:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f2f3750-ac04-4bfe-88d6-b1a2363bd43b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Ah, that's right, the announcement said that the watch was available only in \"AP Houses\". But, what exactly is an AP House and how does one find them? If <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/stores.html?search=united\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">you visit AP's website</a>, it's hard to decipher the difference between a house and a boutique. There's a house in London and one in Barcelona, it seems, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://usa.watchpro.com/audemars-piguet-confirms-plan-to-open-new-york-ap-house-this-year//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">more are coming soon</a>. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.professionalwatches.com/audemars-piguets-new-ap-house-concept//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Professional Watches has a story about them from 2018</a>. It's a cool concept – Soho House meets watch boutique. And the results, it would appear, are incredible. \"Customers spend three to four times more time in AP Houses,\" WatchPro cites. Now that doesn't do much to help the average AP fan, but then again, does the average AP fan actually want to buy anything besides steel Royal Oaks, and isn't AP totally entitled to cater to clients that want *the other stuff, too*? It most certainly is, just as Rolex stores are entitled to offer those steel Daytonas to the customers who've been buying gold and two-tone dress watches for years instead of the person with a new-found interest in sports watches who claims to have a very influential 5,000 Instagram followers.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As for the Jumbo and its limited numbers in all its guises, what you might not know is that Audemars Piguet now owns the production rights to the 2121 caliber exclusively, and due to the artisanal nature of this ultra-thin, self-winding movement, it is actually produced in a dedicated workshop with specially trained watchmakers (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-321-397mm-in-steel-review/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">similar to another top-five brand now making a vintage movement</a>). The movement is effectively a vintage movement made today, and as such, it lives alongside some of AP's far more complex calibers in how readily they may be produced. The 2121 is also the base caliber for the caliber 5134, which you'll find in the watch's equally desirable perpetual calendars and even more complex watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["144caf37-3ba3-4a23-9a36-1a87af412163"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This watch was never intended to be readily available. And even at the low points of AP's production history, a full platinum watch would not just be sitting around for any old guy on the street to buy, so we can't blame 'em too much for that. At the same time, I get why the salt was flying around when James first showed our little community of geeks this watch. It feels like some of us were there for AP when they needed us, and perhaps now they've forgotten all about us. And this watch is the one that was just too much, to the point where people had to finally say, \"stop, you've gone one step too far.\"\nBut I can promise you, if you were an actual client of AP for years, they certainly have not. Buying a watch second-hand and posting about it on Instagram does less for a brand than many want to believe – it doesn't make anyone an unofficial ambassador or influencer. So I would say before anyone gets angry at Audemars Piguet for their recent success, have a hard look at yourself as a consumer and see where you fall as someone a brand should care about. I did it recently, and it's eye-opening. In the meantime, as Mr. Mayer suggests, \"look at the watch, have a smile, admire its no-brainer beauty and scroll on.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For more on this totally not beautiful nor incredibly well-made update on an icon of the past 49 years that is both smooth-dialed and weak movement-ed, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202PT.OO.1240PT.01.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"41a62aed-e5be-4234-be1e-f70f1d0e374a","container_id":9343,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/06515d2c-5a1b-49f3-9aaf-36dc0aa30dd6/04-08-2021ap7028.jpg","width":2200,"height":1467,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2021-05-15T07:38:57.041-04:00","updated_at":"2021-05-15T07:39:46.836-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/06515d2c-5a1b-49f3-9aaf-36dc0aa30dd6/04-08-2021ap7028.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ruminations-on-the-new-ap-royal-oak-jumbo-in-platinum-and-why-nobody-seems-to-likes-it","full_title":"Hands-On: Ruminations On The New AP Royal Oak Jumbo In Platinum, And Why Nobody Seems To Like It","tags":["audemars-piguet","royal-oak"]},{"id":8945,"slug":"hodinkee-is-getting-into-pre-owned-watches-what-does-that-mean-for-you","column_slug":"article","title":"HODINKEE Is Getting Into Pre-Owned Watches. What Does That Mean for You?","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2021-02-18T11:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2021-02-17T17:50:04.081-05:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:37:23.686-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"It's an honor to welcome the entire Crown & Caliber family into our community.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":75565,"public_token":"59710a4d9a88eed9ee1d2a4f49e2ab83","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"From day one, HODINKEE has been in the business of inspiring more and more people to be excited about watches and celebrating the community which supports it. I think we have done a pretty good job. That being said, I wanted to give you a peek behind the curtain on how the managers of HODINKEE think and what drives our decisions. To put it simply, it is this – finding effective solutions to the problems of the watch world from the perspective of us as watch lovers and buyers. OK, maybe not problems, because it's just watches after all, but things that could be done better. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"We've tackled the vintage watch world, the modern watch world, accessories, the printed and spoken word. We've rethought how communities should be able to give feedback to watchmakers directly (We have 100,000+ active commenters on the HODINKEE site, plus several million more readers and members across all channels), and we've even revamped watch insurance completely with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://insurance.hodinkee.com//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Insurance</a>. We do this always with our watch lovers caps on.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"There has been a category that we've long loved but weren't sure how best to contribute – and that's pre-owned watches. I want to be clear in what I mean by this. It is not vintage watches, which we tend to think of as those made before 1990. It's certainly not grey market watches, which to us has always represented the antithesis of what makes this world special. What I mean here are simply watches that are modern by definition, but not brand new. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This category has seen exponential growth in recent years, and pre-owned platforms such as Chrono24 and Watchbox for example already exist to service that category. We considered, as we are wont to do, should we go ahead and make our own version of a platform like that? With that thought in mind, we looked around the room at each other and said, \"No, we don't need to create something from scratch because there's already someone out there doing a pretty damn good job at it.\" I'm referring to our friends over at Crown & Caliber. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["57c25a05-4902-46be-85a7-6d7d30425d1b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"What makes Crown & Caliber different? First of all, it's not just a platform for you to list a watch, nor is it even a consignment shop. No, Crown & Caliber will buy your watch from you and get you paid. That solves one huge problem we often see – how do I move a watch so that I can buy a new one without having to wait forever?!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Next, we wanted to look at the post-purchase process, and this is another area where Crown & Caliber excels. After Crown & Caliber purchases your watch, they'll take it into their state-of-the-art facility and give it to one of their in-house Swiss-certified watchmakers to inspect and service, if needed. The watch will then be posted online for purchase. The new owner will not only have the benefit and peace of mind of a fully inspected watch with a full year's warranty but also easy shipping and returns, just like you've come to expect from your HODINKEE Shop experience.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"We've been all over the world looking at watch sellers, and no one handles pre-owned with the integrity and customer-first perspective that Crown & Caliber does. We simply love the way they do business. We love them so much in fact that as of today, we are proud to announce that HODINKEE has acquired Crown & Caliber. Yup, we are now one company, and what that means for you is that over the next several months, you'll see our two websites begin to work with each other in ways that can better serve you, the watch buying (and watch selling!) community. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["52249aa7-d3e2-4255-8f4d-8373e5d232a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"What's amazing about this very concept is that Crown & Caliber founder Hamilton Powell and I have been friends for years. One night over dinner in Soho almost six years ago, we hatched the idea of us working together. Neither of us was really ready, but the idea never left our minds. It really is a true honor to welcome Hamilton and the entire Crown & Caliber family into our little community here at HODINKEE. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"What changes today? We're rolling out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/pre-owned-watches/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">a small pre-owned selection</a> on our site, and will grow it exponentially over time. And soon, you will be able to use your Crown & Caliber trade-in credit to make purchases in the HODINKEE Shop. We're also going to make the process faster and better than it is now. As we've been saying for years, we know that selling a watch is just as important as buying one, and the level of trust that is required is no different. So we're doing this with you in mind – to make one more part of the nebulous world of watches a little bit easier for all.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Please join me in welcoming Crown & Caliber into the HODINKEE family, and be sure to drop some suggestions below on how you'd like to see the two sites work together. There are lots of cool things to come.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":1,"slug":"article","name":"Article","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.918-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:00.996-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"b2c55eb9-473d-4782-b0cc-44a132e74c76","container_id":8945,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1613682469093-eom8cr7awu8-4769ec8a88c8a5e1da4f21615d4023b1/Preowned-Lifestyle-4.jpg","width":2088,"height":1175,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2021-02-17T17:50:04.369-05:00","updated_at":"2021-02-18T16:08:36.623-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1613682469093-eom8cr7awu8-4769ec8a88c8a5e1da4f21615d4023b1/Preowned-Lifestyle-4.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-is-getting-into-pre-owned-watches-what-does-that-mean-for-you","full_title":"HODINKEE Is Getting Into Pre-Owned Watches. What Does That Mean for You?","tags":["announcements","crown-and-caliber"]},{"id":8715,"slug":"an-incomplete-completely-subjective-analysis-of-the-phillips-racing-pulse-sale","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"An Incomplete, Completely Subjective Analysis Of The Phillips Racing Pulse Sale","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-12-14T08:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2020-12-12T17:23:45.995-05:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:35:50.131-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Our founder calls out eight lots that raised a few eyebrows – and presents both sides of the argument.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":36182,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Many years ago – so many years, in fact, that I can't even locate it on this site – I wrote an analysis of a watch auction that I was always fond of. What I did was examine a few interesting lots, and challenge myself to make an argument both for and against why that watch was worth the price it fetched. I thought I'd revive that concept today, because <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/NY080120/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Phillips' Racing Pulse auction</a>, ostensibly based out of New York, but auctioneered from London, was the most interesting day of 2020 by a country mile for vintage lovers. Things got a little crazy. And that's crazy even by the admittedly crazy world of luxury watches, HODINKEE, and public auctions. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The fun part of watches is the sheer irrationality: As we're always the first to say, none of this makes sense. But at the same time, within a very particular context, spending oodles of money makes a ton of sense (if you can afford it). Let's run through a few sales and why they make sense, and why they didn't. Because both are almost always equally true.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"1. Rolex Reference 5517 MilSub Sells For $567,000"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["31f65873-6692-4474-88b1-342a81a2730b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: The Submariners made for and issued to the British defense forces have always been popular with serious collectors – they are, in some ways, the archetype of what makes Rolex cool. They've always been dramatically more expensive than a normal matte dial Sub – and that delta jumped considerably on Saturday. This particular example of a MilSub is one of the most compelling I've seen. It is, of course, a full-spec watch, but beyond that, it is a rather rare variant, the full reference 5517. The earliest and most often-seen watches are reference 5513s, then you have the dual-reference 5513/5517 wherein the watch is engraved 5513 between the lugs, and 5517 under the lugs, and then finally, the full 5517, which is what this example is. I'd not realized it, but Phillips had never sold a full 5517 reference before, which could well have been a factor in driving up this price. Beyond that, the watch was damn pretty, with an extremely full case, and what's more, papers from Rolex Bexley verifying the authenticity of this watch. Rolex stopped issuing these papers many years ago, so examples that include them often come with a serious premium. But this extreme of a premium? \nWhy This Makes No Sense: MilSubs are great. Hell, it was the very first big-time watch I bought for myself – and I paid for it in installments because I for sure could not afford it when I found the one I wanted. But in many ways, along with COMEX watches, they're a bit like entry-level mega-Rolex watches. They're not exactly common, but they're not hyper rare either. This one was undoubtedly great, but the market for a good MilSub as of late has been, what, half this price? Phillips <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/Search/?Search=milsub\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">itself sold two 5513 MilSubs in 2018 for $175,000 each</a>. Then, just one year ago, in the December 2019 sale, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080119/28/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">it sold a dual-reference example with a very cool original owner's kit, for $218,750</a>. Let's put a 5517 premium on that and you'd be in mid 200s. Doubling that number for this watch? It feels really strong. But, as we know, all it takes is two guys on Planet Earth who both really want something to make an auction watch go crazy. I'm not saying they're wrong to do it, but this is already being viewed as an outlier result, not any indication of a market shift. \n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080120/19//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080120/19//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"> to see it</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"2. The Heuer Monaco Gifted By Steve McQueen Sells For $2,208,000"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3fac3928-0505-4ae3-bea0-652f3d499ec3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: McQueen, Monaco, LeMans, you know the deal. It's absolutely iconic, and absolutely a killer watch with a story that rivals the best of 'em. Also, the connection to motorsport in this case is really real, and that makes car guys go crazy. It's also one of the most honest of the six known watches from that filming. And the simple fact that its owner was around to verify the entire story goes a very long way. Beyond that, it's 2020, and this is Phillips! All the other McQueen Monacos sold many years ago, and with hardly the same enthusiasm behind the vendor, or the macro-level watch market at all. I was in the room in 2009 when Antiquorum sold one for $80,000, and we all thought it was insane. In 2012, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/steve-mcqueens-heuer-monaco-from-lemans-sells-for-799500seriously/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">another sold for $799,500</a>, and we called that insane. This? Of course paying $2 million for a watch is certainly insane, but this wasn't surprising at all. Will it spur a re-birth of the vintage Heuer market? That's another story. One we'll cover soon enough.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: There are six McQueen Monacos. Six. Which of them were really used in filming or really worn by Steve McQueen is hardly an exact science. This watch was given to the consigner by McQueen, and there is no doubt about it, so again, it's likely the purest of the six. But still. The quality of the watch itself is wonderful, but this is so far out of whack for a vintage Heuer result, the watch surely must've been purchased by a film or automotive buff as opposed to a watch buff. I can't say the same for the Newman 6263 which we'll get to later. \n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/NY080120/20//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here to see it</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"3. Patek Philippe 5170P Sells For $107,100"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7875cb21-aac3-456d-82f7-7585b9e7de51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: I'm a huge fan of this reference – I own one – and I bought it at retail, for less than this watch sold for yesterday. When I chose this watch for this article, I fully intended <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">to link to the Patek.com website showing it remains part of its collection</a> and showing its price south of yesterday's result. However, the 5170P is no longer on the Patek website, and that means it's out of the collection. So maybe, in fact, this result could make sense. It's a platinum, 39mm, hand-wound chronograph from the most prestigious watchmaker in the world. For the same price as a 5711R in the open market? Hell yes, it makes sense.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: The 5170P, as far as I know, is still available with authorized dealers around the world. And that means, for the same price as this person paid at auction, you could get one brand new with your name on the papers and build that relationship with a great Patek authorized dealer to perhaps work toward a position where you can be offered some other hard-to-find stuff at retail. Why this person chose to buy it via Phillips, I'm not sure. Then again, why would someone buy a modern Pepsi GMT at auction versus any other platform? Anybody's guess. \n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080120/23//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here to see it</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"4. Paul Newman's Rolex 6263 \"Big Red\" Sells For $5,475,000"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b751f6da-4778-4b31-916e-9ca0d3da971a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: Ah, the other Paul Newman Daytona – the watch that continues to befuddle casual watch fans around the world. \"Wait, I thought the Big Red wasn't a Paul Newman?\" \"No, no, you're right, this is actually Paul Newman's Daytona, and it happens to be a Big Red.\" \"But I thought Paul Newman's Daytona sold a few years ago for like a billion dollars?\" \"Yes, around $18 million, but this is a different one.\" \"Oh, okay, so he had two Daytonas.\" \"Well, actually, he had more than that...\" You get it. Still, this is a watch owned by the man himself, given to his daughter Clea, with the now-famous \"Drive Slowly\" inscription on the back. It's very freaking cool, and the provenance is indisputable, as is the charm of the watch itself. The Big Red is an easy Daytona to understand for the uninitiated, and the caseback engraving absolutely makes this watch. Without it, I think it would hardly have the following it does. So for a mega-Rolex collector, perhaps even the man/woman/child <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newman-rolex-daytona-auction-most-expensive-watch-ever/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">with the 6239PN</a>, this is a must-have. And for the folks who were just priced out of the original Paul Newman, this would make an excellent trophy piece.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: This is over $5 million for a Big Red Daytona. That's the third-highest amount ever paid for a Rolex. Consider that. The other Paul Newman (6239) was a category-defining, nay, category-creating watch. Without it, I'm not even sure there'd be a website called HODINKEE on which its founder could frenetically spout opinions on a whim – so that watch and that result, to many, was fully warranted. This watch, the 6263, may actually have meant more to Newman himself, having worn it for longer and sometimes even more publicly, but it's not the watch that created anything. It was just his watch. Beyond that, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://daytonainfo.watch/history/the-complete-history-of-the-paul-newman-daytona/paul-newman-daytona-part-3-of-8//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Newman owned at least three more Daytonas</a> – all more modern – so what does this sale inform us about the value of those? Is mere adjacency really that much of a value driver? We'll almost certainly find out when those other watches surface.\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080120/38//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here to see it</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"5. Sylvester Stallone's Panerai Sells For $214,200"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b653751-812d-49c5-aecb-f3faf1538457"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: This is probably the only watch on this list that I expected to go for more than it did. $214,200 is an extraordinary amount of money for a very simple Panerai, but to me, it's actually the watch that built the brand. I would maybe even argue that it is as close to Paul Newman's 6239 as one can come in the world of Panerai. It was, in many ways, the brand's introduction to the mainstream when Stallone wore it in the 1996 film Daylight. To think of the millions of dollars spent on Panerai watches since, and the still massive following it has, much of it can be drawn to this very watch. I would not have been shocked to see this one go even higher simply for its importance to the world of Panerai.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: This is a very simple watch featuring a very simple caliber (ETA 6497-1), and while it is a \"Pre-Vendome\" watch, these watches can be had if enough time and money is applied. Further, Sylvester Stallone is an icon of Hollywood, and of Panerai, but not in the greater watch world the way Paul Newman is. Actually, you know what, forget it. I'm grasping. This watch should've gone for more.\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/panerai/NY080120/47//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here to see it</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"6. Patek Philippe 3448 Yellow Gold Sells For $529,200"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["43f239bb-5baf-496a-89ca-3b81c2e16e45"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: It pains me to write this one because I was in hot pursuit of this very watch. I placed a bid or two, but came nowhere near winning. And that sucks. But this watch was the highlight of the sale for me. It's a first series 3448 from the original owner with original certificate, and absolutely an unpolished case. The watch is spectacular, and in the right condition these 3448s are divine. I wrote about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/christies-hong-kong-patek-philippe-2526-3448-white-gold/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">an incredible white-gold example a few weeks back</a> that also set a record price, and what we're seeing is the best quality watches making numbers significantly higher than good, or even great watches. This result makes sense because of the reference's overall importance, the lovely design of it, and this particular example's condition. It also being a Patek Philippe from the golden age, the big boys were certainly involved with the result here. I have zero first-hand knowledge, but my guess is that some names you've seen on Talking Watches might've been after this one. And when they're involved, anything goes.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: Come on. Over half a million dollars for a yellow-gold 3448? These watches are not that uncommon in the market or in auctions. Phillips has sold a bunch, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/Search/?Search=3448\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">most of the yellow-gold watches didn't break $200,000</a>. One did, which was similar to this one, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080218/76?fromSearch=3448&searchPage=1\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">it sold for $300,000 in 2018</a>. They've even sold a handful of white-gold 3448s in recent years for less. Oh, and Phillips themselves sold another example, a later watch, but also with a full set, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080220/871?fromSearch=3448&searchPage=1\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">literally two weeks ago for less than half the price (~$276,000)</a>. This watch was a perfect storm of quality and collectibility, and my guess is this price was driven by two mega-collectors simply looking to own the best of the best of the best, at almost any cost. Again, when a price is so outside the norm for a particular reference, we find it often doesn't impact that market as much as those within a standard deviation. This feels like an outlier to me, not a shift in the market, similar to the MilSub. Still, this is an unbelievable result for an unbelievable watch, and I doff my cap to whoever was the victor.\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080120/60//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here to see more</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"7. Omega Seamaster 300 For The British Royal Navy Sells For $258,300"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["12e079bb-d49c-4426-a3b8-64a216141450"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: The Seamaster 300 for the British Navy is exactly what it looks like: Omega, too, had a contract with the British MOD that delivered watches much in the same vein as the aforementioned Rolex 5517. You'll notice the fully graduated bezel, sword hands, circled T, and fixed spring bars are also here – for those astute to this world, you'll notice the date of the Rolex was 1979, the date of this Seamaster is 1970. So these pre-dated the MilSub. It's a very cool thing and rather rare relative to the world of Seamasters, and while I don't have the data in front of me, I see more MilSubs on the market than issued Seamaster 300s. This particular watch is a nice example, and it comes from arguably the best home for a watch such as this. Also, it sold for half the price of the MilSub in this sale, which feels like a relative bargain.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: When I say \"relative bargain,\" I say that in the context of the simply remarkable results of Saturday's Racing Pulse sale. There is absolutely zero precedent for a Seamaster 300 selling for a number anywhere near $250,000. Again, Phillips sold <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/HK080220/945?fromSearch=omega%20british&searchPage=1\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">another watch in very similar condition TWO WEEKS AGO for a literal fraction</a> (~$89,000). The only justification I can see here for such an outsized price in this sale – and I've seen this happen many times – is someone took a look at the crazy result of the MilSub earlier in the day and thought to him or herself, \"OK, for half the price, seems like a good deal!\" Auctions are crazy things, and the emotion and impulses of otherwise pragmatic and intelligent people can go haywire. Let's remember the estimate on this watch was $30,000 to $60,000, and it sold for over $250,000. For further data, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/Search/?Search=omega+british\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here is every military Seamaster Phillips has ever sold</a>. You'll notice that prior to Saturday, December 12, none had ever cracked $90,000. To me, this was completely driven by the outsized MilSub result, and I wish the very best to those Seamaster 300 owners thinking they'll be able to replicate the magic of a blue-chip auction with Aurel Bacs behind the rostrum and a room full of well-heeled, hungry collectors looking to blow off some steam after the weirdest year in a generation.\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/NY080120/107//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Click here to read more.</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"8. A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Sells For $81,900"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e5ba5004-be90-4434-b6ce-139d18cfad6a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Why This Makes Sense: Hear me out for a minute here: I would posit that as a percentage of a full collection, there are more Langes trading at or above retail than there are Pateks. We all know how crazy the world for Nautilus and Aquanauts are, but what about, you know, everything else? Patek has a massive breadth of models, and very few of them benefit from the same resale value as the sport watches. Meanwhile, getting a great Lange from an authorized dealer can be extremely difficult. Look at the Datograph Lumen. Look at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-1815-rattrapante-honeygold-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the recently released 1815 Rattrapante</a>. I can't tell you how many friends/associates pinged me for help getting one of those (hint: I can't help anyone get anything). The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-thin-black-gold-flux-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Saxonia from last week</a>? All gone. So it's not a surprise to see Lange's first steel sports watch going above list by a wide margin (list is $28,800). I have seen several colleagues who I respect greatly be among the first to purchase the watch (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CIHv7M4HkYT//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Quill & Pad's Gary G</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CG7wLw6nog6//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Francois-Xavier Overstake being two examples</a>). And I believe this is the first auction appearance for the Odysseus. So it makes sense that the most wearable Lange ever has a long list of people looking to get one. Also, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-review/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">in the metal</a>, it's a hell of a nice watch.\nWhy This Makes No Sense: I'm just one of those people who will never buy a watch that's currently in production above list or from anyone but an authorized dealer. Granted, the list for an Odysseus is likely years-long right now, if you can even get one without being a long-time Lange client, but I believe in long-term relationships with authorized dealers and brands. Also, it's hard for me to internally justify paying above list when the brand itself is telling us, by listing its prices publicly, that that is what it feels a watch is worth. If the people at Lange, the folks who spent the years developing it, tell me it's worth $28,800, then that's the price I feel one should pay for it. Not more. (Now, of course, there are folks with money who say, \"I just want it now,\" and that's understandable.) I'm also surprised to see this watch come for sale so soon, as Lange has a very good relationship with its small network of dealers – I'd imagine whoever sold this watch is likely getting a call from someone in Germany soon. Because brands don't like it when hard-to-find watches go to people who don't love them and hang onto them. \n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/NY080120/127/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">To see more, click here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Saturday's Racing Pulse sale was a hell of a lot of fun to watch. It gives us so much to talk and think about as a community. The prices for some watches were remarkable. Are they warranted? To those who bought them, absolutely. To the rest of us? It truly doesn't matter. Because as you know, just like there is #instagramversusreality, there is often a case of #auctionversusreality. And what a public sale tells us is not what any watch is worth. It's simply what one person was willing to pay for that watch in that moment on that day in that format. So don't read too much into these results, or my thoughts on them. It's only watches, after all.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"272e1260-d968-4878-9257-64804a72a463","container_id":8715,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1607813701001-jhguixqxu3n-15809826e21852b4580119aedf3aa4bc/Saleroom_-_Rolex_-_Credit_Thomas_De_Cruz_Media_Haydon_Perrior.jpg","width":3840,"height":2560,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-12-12T17:23:46.126-05:00","updated_at":"2020-12-12T17:57:24.331-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1607813701001-jhguixqxu3n-15809826e21852b4580119aedf3aa4bc/Saleroom_-_Rolex_-_Credit_Thomas_De_Cruz_Media_Haydon_Perrior.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-incomplete-completely-subjective-analysis-of-the-phillips-racing-pulse-sale","full_title":"Auctions: An Incomplete, Completely Subjective Analysis Of The Phillips Racing Pulse Sale","tags":["rolex","auctions","phillips","vintage-patek","vintage-rolex"]},{"id":8671,"slug":"weve-hired-a-great-new-ceo-heres-why-and-whats-next","column_slug":"business_news","title":"We've Hired A Great New CEO. Here's Why – And What's Next","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-12-02T09:29:37.556-05:00","created_at":"2020-12-01T12:27:09.160-05:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:35:16.305-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A longtime friend of the show is joining HODINKEE, which means our founder can focus on the stuff he loves.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":63273,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Hey all. As we've promised over the past few months, we really want everyone to know what HODINKEE is up to in every way, and this is no different. I am so pleased to announce that, as of today, Mr. Toby Bateman, a longtime friend of mine (and even longer friend of HODINKEE's) will be taking over as Chief Executive Officer. For those who don't know him, he's one of the most thoughtful, tasteful men around – formerly leading Mr. Porter as its Managing Director – and someone for whom watches are a lifelong passion. Beyond that, he's just one of the best people in the business. \nNow some of you might be asking, \"wait, does that mean Ben is retiring to some tropical island somewhere?\" Negative, although sometimes I wish I could. What this means is that I'll move into a role that allows me to focus on what I love the most about HODINKEE – the stories that got me excited about this business in the first place. You'll see me more present on the site, in videos, and out there engaging with you, the community. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["10a99623-4c72-46e7-9a85-7e81f146dd08"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It's funny, as CEO I briefly fell out of love with watches. That didn't feel right. Watches should bring me, and you, joy! With Toby taking over as chief executive, I'm able to fall more in love with this category than ever before. Hell, to celebrate this transition into an executive chairman role, I treated myself to a vintage Daytona. I hadn't bought a vintage Rolex in years. And you know what? It felt great. So now, having built HODINKEE from a blog to a website to a magazine to an authorized dealer of more than 25 of the best brands in the world to your trusted source for watch content and commerce, I can finally take a step back and focus on the things that bring me joy. \nIn addition to Toby, we've hired a new head of editorial – Nick Marino, who spent 18 years in newspapers and magazines (including a long stretch at GQ) before moving on to Apple, Levi's, and now us. Along the way, as you may have seen, we raised some money. What this means is that we'll simply be able to do what we do, but better. We've seen some amazing growth over the past decade. With positive growth comes top-tier investors that include the likes of TCG, True Ventures, Future Shape, GV, LVMH Luxury Ventures, our old friend John Mayer, and even Super Bowl champ Tom Brady! The team we have working with us is the best there is — and we can't wait to show you what's in store.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd8517e6-f8f9-452e-b418-e2ade8ce6b09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Also, I'd like to mention that we witnessed one of those \"only in the watch world\" insta-kerfuffles a few weeks back, regarding working with LLV. I want to clarify that. LVMH Luxury Ventures is an independent investment vehicle, of which there are dozens, that is completely separate from the publicly traded LVMH. The investment arm looks at businesses they think are interesting and show potential. To use a term from that world, this is a pure equity investment, and a small one. They are one of a few dozen people on our cap table – and we are so proud to have them there – but to insinuate we were purchased by LVMH or that they will influence our editorial decisions is simply inaccurate. \nHODINKEE's goal has always been to make the watch world a bigger place, and a better one. With Toby joining the likes of Russell, Eneuri, and myself as the leaders of this company, and with help from absolutely the best team in watches and the community that supports it, that future is now more possible than ever.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["fff5a64f-68e3-4c2e-beeb-e6e102438472"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"And now, a word from our new CEO...","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Hi all, \nToby here. This is an exciting day for me, and I'll try not to be too gushy. But anyone who knows me knows I love watches – and that I'm a longtime fan of HODINKEE. So I seem to have landed squarely on my feet here, right? Right. While we have many exciting announcements on the horizon, and I can't wait to get to work, for now all I'll say is that I'm honored to be part of such a great brand and a great team, and I'm here to make your HODINKEE experience even better. Thank you for welcoming me into the community.\n– Toby","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":4,"slug":"business_news","name":"Business News","description":"Explore past and present HODINKEE content, from in-depth product reviews to original video series.","sort_order":13,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.947-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:40:30.347-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"be73168c-931a-407c-9f2b-f60dcfc3cacf","container_id":8671,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1606864392519-lf18ksvvya-257fb21af3a6f39b4adc86b2b9e2ddb7/3_291A5634.jpg","width":2000,"height":1125,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-12-01T12:27:09.244-05:00","updated_at":"2020-12-01T18:25:16.924-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1606864392519-lf18ksvvya-257fb21af3a6f39b4adc86b2b9e2ddb7/3_291A5634.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/weve-hired-a-great-new-ceo-heres-why-and-whats-next","full_title":"Business News: We've Hired A Great New CEO. Here's Why – And What's Next","tags":["hodinkee-events","business-news"]},{"id":8644,"slug":"christies-hong-kong-patek-philippe-2526-3448-white-gold","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"One Sale, Two White Gold Pateks: The 2526 And 3448 At Christie's","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-11-23T17:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2020-11-21T09:33:34.570-05:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:34:53.789-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"For a vintage Patek lover, it gets no better.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30242,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The way people sell watches has changed a lot in 2020, even at the very high end. Phillips has proven to have a robust retail business in its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/store/perpetual/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Perpetual</a> platform, helmed by the great James Marks, but they also continue to consign, organize, and market watches into flagship sales in the major markets of Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York. The results prove that the best watches will continue to bring exceptional prices, and Paul Boutros's \"Racing Pulse\" sale next month will be one any watch lover will be looking forward to, no matter if they plan to bid or not. \nThe other two big players in auctions, Christie's and Sotheby's, have taken different tacks, and are now running regular (weekly, really) sales online in the auction platform, even sometimes running different sales from different offices at the same time. As I write this, for example, you have the option of bidding on watches in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/departments/watches?locale=en\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">no fewer than five different Sotheby's watch auctions</a>, with the option to view, but not bid on, a sixth. You're also notified of a seventh and eighth watch sale, but you can't view or bid just yet. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7dd1571e-ee8b-4357-95fb-b5e39c167b1e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I don't mention this as a bad idea at all - Sotheby's continues to sell watches well here, but as someone who loves watch auctions and all the drama that they involve, it's hard to keep up. Christie's lays somewhere between Phillips and Sotheby's in that, over the summer, they included several high end watches in a larger multi-category sale, will be hosting the annual December NY sale online only, but will have a live auction for their Important Watches sale in Hong Kong coming up on November 28th. With all this scattered signaling around some very good and some very average watches for sale, it's very easy to miss the fact that some exceptional watches might be offered. And that's why we're here today.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Patek Philippe 3448 In White Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f895df99-4346-48ca-a0ad-afcad988c557"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Christie's has spent most of its ink talking about the \"Ruby Collection\" of Patek Philippes, which indeed does include <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-a-highly-attractive-and-possibly-6293301-details.aspx?from=salesummery&intObjectID=6293301\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">a reference 3448 in yellow gold with ruby dial</a>. I've never seen another and it's no doubt a very cool thing. It's important to note that the watch is from 1965, but the dial was made and installed by Patek in 1990. Clearly the work was done for a very important client and what's even cooler, the bezel has been factory modified to account for the raised ruby hour markers. Very cool, but not the 3448 I'm most excited about. Still, our colleagues in Japan did a nice photo report on the collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.jp/articles/christies-important-watches-the-ruby-collection-part-5/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. No, the lot that comes just four before is another 3448, but it's in white gold. And it looks absolutely stunning. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b51bf26f-dac1-4a50-b578-31b3d597a862"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The 3448 is one of the most wearable and, to me, beautiful vintage Patek Philippes ever made. It is large in diameter - complicated, but self-winding. It was Patek's first self-winding perpetual calendar and is a thoroughly modern vintage watch, in the best of ways. It is also one of the few complicated vintage watches made by Patek ever to be cased from the factory in white gold. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["078f569a-c363-4c54-bec3-708b86d2188f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"They are watches that are adored by serious collectors the world over, and to find any 3448 in white gold is quite a feat. To find one in seemingly robust and original condition is something else entirely. These watches have sat around the $500,000 mark for many years now, but when a superlative example comes to market, anything is possible. In June 2019, Christie's sold what I thought was the very best example of a 3448 white I'd ever seen. They sold it for $1.155 million against an estimate of $300,000 to $500,000. Christie's, for this example, states it is one of about 50 known, one of just 25 of the first series style watch. And beyond that, they say that this is likely one of the best three known examples in the world. They go on to provide such detail about the first series dials, such as the fact that early dials feature engraved, enameled inscriptions and scales - where only the \"Swiss\" at the bottom is black painted - a neat little way to know if you're looking at an early or late 3448. The dial, on the rear, reads \"1119045\", which, if you look at the extract, is the watch's movement number. Christie's has done an excellent job giving viewers a look at all the key pieces of a 3448 that one would want to see, if they were considering paying a world record price for a watch. Which, by the way, is exactly what Christie's is suggesting this watch warrants with an estimate of $932,864 - $1,554,774. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4d449970-b42d-41ec-9778-c13f9184f13c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I will not speak to how this watch compares to the watch that sold in June 2019 because, while I did see that one in the metal, I've not had a chance to see this one in person. I will say it does look wonderful, and though the white gold bracelet was not born on the watch, it does fit it very well and adds to the charm of the watch. Of course, you can take it off the white gold Patek bracelet and wear it any way you want. The 3448 white has long been a personal grail of mine, and I missed the chance to own one, but that makes me no less a fan of seeing these beautiful, great quality watches coming to market. To find out more about this 3448 perpetual calendar available at Christie's Hong Kong on November 28, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-a-fantastically-well-perserved-18k-6293297-details.aspx?from=salesummery&intobjectid=6293297\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Patek Philippe 2526 In White Gold With Confirmed Enamel Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b18f5ab4-ae0a-4553-81d0-f471ce0b06ba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the very same sale exists another holy grail of vintage Patek collecting – a 2526 in white gold. Look, I won't give you the whole song and dance about why I love the 2526 so much again – if you want it, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here's 5,000 words on it from four and a half years ago</a>. In summary, it features likely the highest quality self-winding movement ever created, one of the most beautiful case shapes, and, when lucky, a peerless enamel dial. Any 2526 is great; white metal is the dream. I'm lucky enough to have been able to purchase one many years ago and it remains one of the best watches to come through my hands. But understanding the nuance of white metal 2526s requires some scholarship unto itself. The majority of white metal 2526s, of which we know of less than 50, between both platinum and white gold, featured metal dials with diamond indices. I happen to love those too, as kind of a hyper opulent, peak of 1950s style type of thing. Remember <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/important-watches-n09697/lot.992.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">this incredible Serpico Y Laino white gold watch with diamond markers that sold for $325,000 in 2017</a>? What a thing. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4aa50fd8-dbec-4ae3-96ad-2eaf637b5f74"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I'm not saying the enamel dials are better in any way than the metal dials – an argument could be made for the opposite: that metal dials make them far more daily-wearable. That's an argument I would buy. But I will say the enamel dial watches just feel more special to me. Because who else was doing an enamel dial on a time-only watch back then? Further to finding a 2526 in platinum or white gold, you should try to find one that features an extract confirming the enamel dial was actually born in that watch. Patek did, for a time, offer the opportunity to swap dials. Beyond that, some watches that were born with enamel dials may not benefit from extracts that explicitly say so, and is less than ideal (but not bad). Further still, because the 2526's dial has become so lauded, there exists an option of a new enamel dial made to replace those that have broken. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans/">We ran a story on this service in October of 2016</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["3c9cf0aa-b47b-45bb-bb75-478b6a528fc6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The lot note from Christie's here gives you the details of what makes a white gold 2526 so special. \"Around 2400 pieces were made in yellow gold, 360 in pink gold, 70 in white gold and 70 in platinum. According to research, although the same quantity were made of each in white gold and platinum, the white gold version is actually rarer than the platinum cased version today. Only around 20 white gold examples have been so far discovered whereas 24 platinum watches are now known publicly.\" They do not mention how many of those 20 discovered have enamel dials versus metallic, but one has to assume less than half, making this a very rare find, indeed, with the extract confirming it was born enamel and no visible cracks to the dial. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Christie's has again done a nice job showing the various items of the watch that any 2526 collector would want to see, including the caliber, inside of the caseback, and more. What's interesting is that, at least from viewing online, neither the 2526 nor the 3448 have any service markings on the inside of their casebacks. That's a great thing for an originality freak. The estimate here is $310,955 to $414,606. This is a lot of money, clearly, but it's hard to put a price on something this rare. I can't remember the last time a white gold 2526 with confirmed enamel dial came on the market publicly – I'm not sure one has since I've been around. Over five years ago, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080515/185?fromSearch=2526&searchPage=1\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">we saw a nice platinum example sell at Phillips for $227,000</a>, but it's hard to use something from half-a-decade ago as a comp. Since then, t<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/important-watches-n09697/lot.992.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">he diamond dial mentioned above sold for $325,000 in 2017</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/platinum-tiffany-patek-philippe-2526-record-price/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the remarkable platinum, Tiffany signed watch brought in $642,000 over 30 months ago</a> – those are the two high quality examples of white metal 2526s to sell within the last five years. \nNo matter the outcome of the sale, after twelve years of doing this, I'm simply thrilled to see watches that are genuinely exciting still coming to market. You can read more about this Patek Philippe 2526 white gold <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-an-extremely-rare-and-highly-6293296-details.aspx?from=salesummery&intObjectID=6293296\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"a971cd1f-abe3-4c80-82cc-23027106f2a1","container_id":8644,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1606162857454-s4oo0hy5xxo-52c89da0293b07b9a4aa885d931149e9/christies_hero.jpg","width":2698,"height":1517,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-11-21T09:33:34.625-05:00","updated_at":"2020-11-23T15:21:22.251-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1606162857454-s4oo0hy5xxo-52c89da0293b07b9a4aa885d931149e9/christies_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/christies-hong-kong-patek-philippe-2526-3448-white-gold","full_title":"Auctions: One Sale, Two White Gold Pateks: The 2526 And 3448 At Christie's","tags":["christies","patek-philippe","vintage-patek","bring-a-loupe"]},{"id":8626,"slug":"philippe-dufour-names-claude-sfeir","column_slug":"business_news","title":"Philippe Dufour Names New Commercial Partner, And Gives Details Of 20th Anniversary Simplicity Collection","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-11-16T18:49:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2020-11-16T17:40:24.024-05:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:34:40.501-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Oh, and we tell you how to order one, too.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":38028,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It was late on a Monday afternoon in NYC when I received something I never, ever expected to see come in via WhatsApp. In fact, it's something I've never seen in my 12 plus years of involvement in watches – an official statement from one Philippe Dufour. Actually, it might even resemble a press release.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As of today, November 16, 2020, Mr. Claude Sfeir, legendary collector and jeweler, will handle all commercial responsibilities for future creations from Philippe Dufour, beginning with the 20th anniversary of Simplicity 20-piece collection. Mr. Dufour's wife, Elizabeth, ever by her husband's side, will continue to handle any and all matters related to communication.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["7d3656a4-8e75-41a5-aba1-53f2d418cf04"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Mr. Dufour's legacy in watchmaking stems from not only his work for the likes of Audemars Piguet, but also for his innovative Sonnerie wristwatches, and more well-known Duality and Simplicity timepieces, all darlings of the high-end independent collector set. Appreciation for his work has only been compounded over the last 20 years or so by his, well, relatively low interest in catering to the whims of even the wealthiest collectors. For years, he has turned down untold amounts of money from some of the wealthiest collectors in the world to create unique timepieces for them, instead choosing to make the odd watch for those he holds dearest to him. One such example was a stainless steel Simplicity made for his new partner's son's wedding, that we covered <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-unique-philippe-dufour-simplicity-in-stainless-steel-with-eastern-arabic-dial/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. Another was made for a long time friend and Japanese retailer – seen <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/B7q94iJnWFd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.\nMore to the point, Dufour's commercial activity since the completion of his original run of 200 Simplicity watches has been something of a mystery. Thousands have emailed him to inquire about a Simplicity, hoping for the slightest response. Most likely never heard a word. That is not to say Dufour is a recluse – quite the opposite at times – he was kind enough to join us at the 2015 HODINKEE Summit in NYC, and joined <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-radio-bonus-episode-philippe-dufour/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">us for an episode of HODINKEE Radio</a>, in addition to appearing in what remains <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vault-dufour-journe-smith/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">a favorite video of mine</a> back from 2013. He even pops up every now and then <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/philippe-dufour-rolex-pepsi-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-baselworld-2019/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">wearing a rather unexpected watch</a> (that yes, he had to put his name on the waiting list for). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4696235e-5f35-49cc-8462-d45218d62a21"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As for his new partner? Claude Sfeir is a multi-year member of the GPHG Jury, one of independent watchmaking's biggest supporters, the owner of several of the most important F.P. Journe, Gruebel Forsey, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor, and other watches in the world, and quite famously, was the underbidder for the Henry Graves Supercomplication. Beyond that, he is extremely highly regarded by all within the watch industry from each side as a collector and connoisseur first – a must for anyone who is now responsible for ensuring the legacy of one of the greatest watchmakers of all time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["32f5ee60-19b9-4578-a1e4-959a1b325ae8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Details Of The Philippe Dufour 20th Anniversary Simplicity Collection"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Along with the news of Mr. Sfeir's appointment comes details of what the 20-watch limited edition will actually be. We've seen the prototype number 00 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/philippe-dufour-simplicity-fetches-chf-11-million-at-phillips/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">sell at auction</a> for north of one million dollars, and now we know how the remaining watches will be created. All pieces will be 37mm, with Breguet hands. The \"PD\" at 12 seen on the prototype will be replaced by an Arabic \"12.\" The remaining specs are as follows:\nSeven pieces in polished rose gold with a brown dial and pink-gold graphics, polished indices – roughly the same as seen in the Phillips sale.\nSeven pieces in polished white gold with a grey dial and matte indexes. The printing on the dial will be black.\nSeven pieces in brushed, matte platinum with a light blue dial and polished indexes. The printing on the dial will be dark blue.\nYou, no doubt, have noticed that the math here adds up to 21, not 20. Quite simply and transparently, Mr. Dufour himself will be keeping one watch for the house. Which means, including number 00, there will be 22 in the world. Fair enough.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"How To Register Interest In A Simplicity 20th Anniversary Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"And what you've all been waiting for. Yes, with Mr. Sfeir's new involvement, you can actually register interest in this watch. It should be noted that the prices have yet to be determined, and Mr. Dufour and Mr. Sfeir have decided to sell only one watch to each country – meaning that for even the largest pools of collectors around the world, each person will vie for their home country's solitary spot. This thinking is to counteract how watches have been sold previously where groups of friends and similar collectors received the majority of allocations.\nI am told all 20 pieces will be completed and delivered within 24 months from right now, which speaks to Dufour's almost legendary \"ten watches per year\" thinking. To register interest in one such watch, you may email Claude Sfeir directly at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/pages/editor/\"mailto:cldsfr12@gmail.com/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">cldsfr12@gmail.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":4,"slug":"business_news","name":"Business News","description":"Explore past and present HODINKEE content, from in-depth product reviews to original video series.","sort_order":13,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.947-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:40:30.347-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"c5e39843-6896-47a3-a768-f9ceb5c2906a","container_id":8626,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1605566190089-i79g9t47kt-792aa0322998b312d57f544856fb32b2/AB9C1B1C-2FED-455D-8CEE-A9BA4910F565.jpeg","width":1440,"height":1440,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-11-16T17:40:24.071-05:00","updated_at":"2020-11-16T17:40:24.071-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1605566190089-i79g9t47kt-792aa0322998b312d57f544856fb32b2/AB9C1B1C-2FED-455D-8CEE-A9BA4910F565.jpeg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/philippe-dufour-names-claude-sfeir","full_title":"Business News: Philippe Dufour Names New Commercial Partner, And Gives Details Of 20th Anniversary Simplicity Collection","tags":["philippe-dufour","independent-watches"]},{"id":8539,"slug":"vintage-watches-october-21-2020","column_slug":"announcements","title":"An Update On Vintage Watches At HODINKEE","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-10-21T10:58:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2020-10-20T11:47:56.362-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:33:49.886-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"We love vintage watches, and we know you do too, so here's what you should expect from us going forward.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":69361,"public_token":"293fe19d0a791ca6f758108d711e6df4","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Hey guys, Ben here. It's been a minute, I know. But I wanted to take a second today to share with you some changes – I believe all for the better – to how HODINKEE handles something that is near and dear to my heart, and the hearts of many of my colleagues here, and certainly you, our readers – vintage watches. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Vintage watches are at the very core of this company. They were, after <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-hodinkee-10th-anniversary-limited-edition/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">my grandfather's Omega</a>, my first love in mechanical watches, and in many ways, it was the schooling I learned studying vintage watches by myself for those many years that taught me to have the eye that I do in all forms of collecting. Beyond that, the community that surrounds vintage watches is as active as any – and as I've said many times, the thing I am most proud of after 12 years of HODINKEE has little to do with the watches themselves, and entirely to do with the home that we've helped build for now millions of people just like us. And having said that, I want you to know that each and every one of these changes we're announcing today is a direct result of listening to you, our dear community. So what's happening here? Let's get into it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What You See Is What You Get"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["31a31262-d802-4ed8-965a-1c0f3a4b8a2d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"More vintage watches, more transparency, more feedback. When <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-new-hodinkee-shop/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">we launched</a> our online vintage watches program in 2016, we wanted to solve the problems of the day – dealers requiring you to contact them to inquire about a price, or make a purchase. People glossing over what was wrong with watches with tricky verbiage. And frankly, a lack of accountability. \nWe think we helped push the entire market to be more descriptive and more honest about what a vintage watch really is, and our \"Things To Love\" and \"Things To Know\" on each individual piece – a frank, honest assessment of the good and the bad of each watch – is still something we receive amazing feedback on. Because there's no such thing as a perfect 50-year-old watch – and that's ok! The nicks and bruises are all part of what makes vintage watches interesting. If you want a mint condition watch, buy a brand new one. It's just that simple.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8de29ea2-f531-4f26-9656-046440d52991","8e1c91f5-5c3d-45f4-9d78-b3b9802095a6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"code":"\r\n<div id=\"mc_embed_signup\" style=\"max-width: 680px; margin: auto; border: 1px #d6d6d6 solid; padding: 20px;\">\r\n <form action=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hodinkee.us2.list-manage.com/subscribe/post?u=f40057bd67ad03fd3c85b8ad6&id=2707bd8c37\%22 method=\"post\" id=\"mc-embedded-subscribe-form\" name=\"mc-embedded-subscribe-form\" class=\"validate\" target=\"_blank\" novalidate>\r\n <input type=\"hidden\" name=\"TAGS\" value=\"vintage2020\" />\r\n <div id=\"mc_embed_signup_scroll\">\r\n <h2 style=\"font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: 1px; margin: 0 0 6px 0; font-family: 'Proxima Nova Semibold', sans-serif;\">ENTER THE WORLD OF HODINKEE</h2>\r\n Sign up for the HODINKEE Shop newsletter for access to all the latest watches, vintage and modern.\r\n <div class=\"mc-field-group mce-flex-container\" style=\"display: flex; align-items: center;\">\r\n <div style=\"flex: 1 1 0%;\">\r\n <input type=\"email\" value=\"\" name=\"EMAIL\" class=\"required email\" id=\"mce-EMAIL\" style=\"font-family: 'Portrait Text Regular', serif; border: 1px solid #cbcbcb; border-radius: 0; padding: 0px 10px; width: 100%; font-size: 16px; height: 40px;\" placeholder=\"email@example.com\">\r\n </div>\r\n <div class=\"mce-flex-submit\">\r\n <input type=\"submit\" value=\"SUBSCRIBE\" name=\"subscribe\" id=\"mc-embedded-subscribe\" class=\"button\" style=\"padding: 0px 24px; height: 40px; letter-spacing: 1px; border-radius: 0; font-family: 'Proxima Nova Semibold', sans-serif; background-color: #000; color: #fff; font-size: 13px; border: none;\">\r\n </div>\r\n </div>\r\n <div id=\"mce-responses\" class=\"clear\">\r\n <div class=\"response\" id=\"mce-error-response\" style=\"display:none\"></div>\r\n <div class=\"response\" id=\"mce-success-response\" style=\"display:none\"></div>\r\n </div> \r\n <div style=\"position: absolute; left: -5000px;\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><input type=\"text\" name=\"b_f40057bd67ad03fd3c85b8ad6_2707bd8c37\" tabindex=\"-1\" value=\"\"></div>\r\n </div>\r\n </form>\r\n</div>\r\n<style>\r\n .mce-flex-submit {\r\n margin-left: 4px;\r\n }\r\n\r\n @media (max-width: 400px) {\r\n .mce-flex-container {\r\n display: block !important;\r\n }\r\n\r\n .mce-flex-container input[type=\"submit\"] {\r\n width: 100% !important;\r\n margin-top: 4px;\r\n }\r\n\r\n .mce-flex-submit {\r\n margin-left: 0;\r\n }\r\n }\r\n</style>\r\n"},"type":"Block::Code"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"We've Expanded Our Team"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Since 2016, we've hired more photographers, writers, and experts to help build out the vintage department even further. Now helmed by the amazing Logan Baker (ex-WatchTime), Brandon Frazin (ex-Christie's), Saori Omura (ex-Antiquorum), and managed by the man himself, Mr. Russell Kelly (ex-Tudor/Rolex), you couldn't ask for a better team to ensure the highest quality of watches, storytelling, and service. The amount of vetting that every watch goes through by Brandon and Saori is downright remarkable – and everything we sell is backed completely by us. You'll never be left in the wind should something go wrong. Which, by the way, it can, because these are weird old watches! And that's OK. If something does go wrong, we want you to know our team is behind you, and quite frankly, our entire job is to make you happy. You'll see even more of that to come soon.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"One of the complaints we hear most often is 'I want to buy a vintage watch from you, but by the time I get to the shop each Wednesday, they're all sold out.' \r\nThat sucks, and trust us, it's not by design.","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"With our expanded team, we've decided to up the quantity and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/sourcing-vintage-watches-hodinkee-shop/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">quality</a> of the watches we'll be offering for sale online. We're doing this because we've listened to you, and the demand is there. In fact, one of the complaints we hear most often is \"I want to buy a vintage watch from you, but by the time I get to the shop each Wednesday, they're all sold out.\" That sucks, and trust us, it's not by design. But with the level of detail we go into for each piece, it wasn't possible to bring any more watches to market with the level of vetting we insist on. Now, with our expanded team, we can. So there will be more watches with greater variety than ever. Just wait to see what we have below.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ffb7f764-90ae-4898-aeb4-435659be7457"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"We Want To Hear From You"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Oh, and on the transparency thing. We know you guys have thoughts. Lots of them. On everything. And we know you love to get 'em out into the world. So starting today, every time we drop some vintage watches for sale, the comments are on, baby. The goal here is not to allow a platform for bickering or snide remarks, an inevitability of literally all digital platforms across the world, but rather to engage in meaningful dialogue that pushes the conversation and scholarship of watches forward. More comments, we believe, will lead to a greater understanding of watches in general. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d22ef6d3-9849-498b-9ca9-03a83bdb4036","ad148ec8-8efc-44d5-b59d-12f0941e56ac"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c3b5beea-9f12-4396-a89a-8db250d2ca2b","ce46dd65-8983-4672-ad28-25111a426101"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With the expanded assortment of vintage watches each week, our team of editors will likewise be working on some more vintage-heavy content for you. We know the types of stories you love, and you're gonna be getting a lot of them. Deep dives, Reference Points, you name it. It's all coming to you soon.\nBut before we do that, let's talk about today. Because we've gone ahead and found some <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">outstanding watches</a> for you, ranging from high to low, and all very special. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"This Week's Highlights"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A 1950s Vulcain Cricket In 14k Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"First, we wanted to celebrate a watch we've talked about for a decade-plus on HODINKEE as something we just love – a Vulcain Cricket. You know, the watch of Presidents, and one of the most charming vintage watches out there. This one is noteworthy in that it's solid 14k gold, and very honest. It's smaller at 34mm, but so charming, and very elegant. Also, the sound of the alarm is just wonderful. You can take a closer look at this Cricket right now in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vulcain-14k-gold-alarm-wristwatch-1/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Shop</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["25fd4f57-c85a-4ba1-bb34-05ee471b45e5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A 1960s Zenith Cairelli CP-2 Chronograph For The Italian Air Force"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"We then go into a watch that we still believe has a long way to go in terms of appreciation and value – the Zenith Cairelli CP-2. As you likely remember from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/a-1960s-military-zenith-cairelli/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the story</a> we wrote many years back, this is a real Italian Air Force-issued watch, and this particular example is just killer with a strong case, deep caseback engravings, and nice aged dial, hands, and bezel. You can learn more about this Cairelli, right <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1960s-zenith-cairelli-cp-2-chronograph-for-the-italian-air-force/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["25af3c38-dd70-46da-88ee-d6e7f58a9664"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A 1960s Heuer Carrera Ref. 2447N 'First Execution'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"To round it out, let's talk about full-on blue-chip, flagship vintage watches. First, we have one of my favorite chronographs of all time, the early 1960s Heuer Carrera Reference 2447N. This watch, as expertly detailed by our old pal Eric Wind in this <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-earliest-heuer-carreras/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">2013 story</a>, has so much character and charm, not to mention incredible quality and value in it, it's a must for a serious vintage chronograph collector. As we've often said, this watch is very much an early Daytona 6239 by a different name. This one, of course, has the original unsigned crown, just as it should. See it for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1960s-heuer-carrera-ref-2447n/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">yourself</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["80710785-1e49-485b-9873-902a580327b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A 1974 Rolex 'Red' Submariner Ref. 1680 With Box And Papers"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Next, what's more blue-chip than a Red Sub? How about one with a thick case, an original folded 9315 bracelet, original inner and outer box, and PUNCHED guarantee card (little tip for you – hand-written papers on a vintage Rolex are good, punched papers are GREAT). This watch has just the right look, and it can be yours <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/rolex-red-submariner-ref-1680-with-box-and-papers/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">today</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1e173a16-3cb5-4d7b-9e47-9f95d660ce60"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A 1960 Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2998-1 With Tropical Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, how could we ever talk vintage watches without a KILLER Omega Speedmaster? Yes, this guy features the legendary 321 caliber. Yes, this is a 2998-1, otherwise known as the very foundation of the Speedmaster as we know it, and this one is complete with rare base-1000 bezel, original bracelet, extract from the Omega Archives, a replacement crystal and the original crystal, absolutely gorgeous hands – and did I mention the dial is a killer shade of dark chocolate brown? This is a dream Speedmaster, and one we are thrilled to offer to you guys in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1960-omega-speedmaster-ref-2998-1-with-tropical-dial/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Shop</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0377ab15-1744-4fa2-af04-e6cb5c524054"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Stay Tuned"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"These watches aren't all we have for you, but they're some of my personal favorites for this week (you can check out the rest of this week's lineup, and all of the vintage watches currently available in the HODINKEE Shop, right <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>). Again, we hope that the increased attention we've given to vintage watches, as well as the fact that we now encourage feedback on everything we do publicly below, is something you guys appreciate. Oh, and don't think because we're upping the game on vintage that anything will change on the modern side of the house. We have some incredible things coming to you very soon. I'd pay close attention to this space on October 27 if I were you …","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Until next time,\nBen","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Questions? Send us a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/pages/editor/\"mailto:shop@hodinkee.com/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">note</a>, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/pages/sell-your-watch/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"\r\n<div id=\"mc_embed_signup\" style=\"max-width: 680px; margin: auto; border: 1px #d6d6d6 solid; padding: 20px;\">\r\n <form action=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hodinkee.us2.list-manage.com/subscribe/post?u=f40057bd67ad03fd3c85b8ad6&id=2707bd8c37\%22 method=\"post\" id=\"mc-embedded-subscribe-form\" name=\"mc-embedded-subscribe-form\" class=\"validate\" target=\"_blank\" novalidate>\r\n <input type=\"hidden\" name=\"TAGS\" value=\"vintage2020\" />\r\n <div id=\"mc_embed_signup_scroll\">\r\n <h2 style=\"font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: 1px; margin: 0 0 6px 0; font-family: 'Proxima Nova Semibold', sans-serif;\">ENTER THE WORLD OF HODINKEE</h2>\r\n Sign up for the HODINKEE Shop newsletter for access to all the latest watches, vintage and modern.\r\n <div class=\"mc-field-group mce-flex-container\" style=\"display: flex; align-items: center;\">\r\n <div style=\"flex: 1 1 0%;\">\r\n <input type=\"email\" value=\"\" name=\"EMAIL\" class=\"required email\" id=\"mce-EMAIL\" style=\"font-family: 'Portrait Text Regular', serif; border: 1px solid #cbcbcb; border-radius: 0; padding: 0px 10px; width: 100%; font-size: 16px; height: 40px;\" placeholder=\"email@example.com\">\r\n </div>\r\n <div class=\"mce-flex-submit\">\r\n <input type=\"submit\" value=\"SUBSCRIBE\" name=\"subscribe\" id=\"mc-embedded-subscribe\" class=\"button\" style=\"padding: 0px 24px; height: 40px; letter-spacing: 1px; border-radius: 0; font-family: 'Proxima Nova Semibold', sans-serif; background-color: #000; color: #fff; font-size: 13px; border: none;\">\r\n </div>\r\n </div>\r\n <div id=\"mce-responses\" class=\"clear\">\r\n <div class=\"response\" id=\"mce-error-response\" style=\"display:none\"></div>\r\n <div class=\"response\" id=\"mce-success-response\" style=\"display:none\"></div>\r\n </div> \r\n <div style=\"position: absolute; left: -5000px;\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><input type=\"text\" name=\"b_f40057bd67ad03fd3c85b8ad6_2707bd8c37\" tabindex=\"-1\" value=\"\"></div>\r\n </div>\r\n </form>\r\n</div>\r\n<style>\r\n .mce-flex-submit {\r\n margin-left: 4px;\r\n }\r\n\r\n @media (max-width: 400px) {\r\n .mce-flex-container {\r\n display: block !important;\r\n }\r\n\r\n .mce-flex-container input[type=\"submit\"] {\r\n width: 100% !important;\r\n margin-top: 4px;\r\n }\r\n\r\n .mce-flex-submit {\r\n margin-left: 0;\r\n }\r\n }\r\n</style>\r\n"},"type":"Block::Code"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":45,"slug":"announcements","name":"Announcements","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2017-08-11T15:11:06.272-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:04:40.788-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"22abe416-f9fd-48a8-a78e-909114ccf5da","container_id":8539,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1603211772109-7op7pa02ogo-155e9695de8069666abc3929af9dedfe/Redsub-special-lifestyle-001.jpg","width":2088,"height":1392,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-10-20T11:47:56.481-04:00","updated_at":"2020-10-20T12:36:28.621-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1603211772109-7op7pa02ogo-155e9695de8069666abc3929af9dedfe/Redsub-special-lifestyle-001.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-watches-october-21-2020","full_title":"Announcements: An Update On Vintage Watches At HODINKEE","tags":["announcements","vintage","the-hodinkee-shop","vintage-watches"]},{"id":7620,"slug":"an-open-letter-to-the-watch-community","column_slug":"article","title":"An Open Letter To The Watch Community","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-03-23T16:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2020-03-23T13:05:00.513-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T11:26:03.308-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A plan from us at HODINKEE to help, even in the smallest ways.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":90220,"public_token":"ec1188be26cd08c125398d57961ff458","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Dear All,\nIt's been a little while since I last took the time to sit here and write to you guys in this way, but I felt like it was the right moment to make my voice heard again.\nThe world is facing a test previously unfathomable. I am, at this moment, in New York City – the epicenter for U.S. cases of coronavirus – where my entire team of 54 now works from home and with no outlook on things slowing down. I am not a physician, nor do we have the ability to transfer our manufacturing facilities to create masks for those on the front line. I truly wish we did. But we are in a position to help those close to us – and I'm not talking about watches in any way here, but rather the people that make, sell, and collect them. You, our community.\nWith that said, HODINKEE wants to do its part to help in these difficult times, even in the smallest of measures. Below is a plan that I wanted to share with you, outlining the steps we are taking as a company.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cfc3347c-1ce8-4016-b616-8dcc8cbc64c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Retailers: At this point, most manufacturers have closed down, as have effectively all retailers in the United States and abroad. These stores represent the most important part of the sales chain, and they typically operate on a thin margin with large overhead. I have already heard personally from friends at some of the most well-known independent watch stores in the country that layoffs are imminent, and with state-mandated closures of all non-essential businesses, they have zero lifelines to sell the product they have. Beginning later this week, every Tuesday and Thursday, we will shine a light on an independent watch retailer, letting you know how exactly to communicate and work with them while their doors are shut. We hope this will allow them to make some sales and continue along as they were. To be considered, please email editor Cole Pennington at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/pages/editor/\"mailto:cole@hodinkee.com/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">cole@hodinkee.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Brands: We are among the largest online authorized dealers of modern watches in the world. We already have hundreds of watches available from 16 different brands. And while our offices are closed, our warehouse is not. This means that we are able to fulfill orders, and while that may change, I would like to personally offer up the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/?utm_source=referral&utm_medium=hodinkee&utm_campaign=hod-header\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Shop</a> to those people who need active retail distribution at this time. We know it may not be forever, and we won't be able to help everyone, but we will do our best to get as many products out there as possible so that revenue continues to come in and people can continue to be paid. To be considered, please email Andy Yang at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/pages/editor/\"mailto:andy@hodinkee.com/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">andy@hodinkee.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["825945dc-760c-4b1a-8792-13353a6b4bc7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Watch Media: We have long believed that this industry benefits from having dozens of voices heard, all with varying opinions – that's why we are in year six of operating <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://watchville.com//">Watchville.com and the Watchville apps at zero cost to any partners. Every Monday and Friday, we'll be doing a \"Best Of Watchville\" Recommended Reading post to drive eyes to our friends and peers across the media landscape. The majority of watch publications are small, independent businesses, just like ours, whose currency is eyeballs. We're here to make sure that they see as many as possible throughout this time. If you are not a part of Watchville at the moment and would like to be considered, please email Eneuri Acosta at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/pages/editor/\"mailto:eneuri@hodinkee.com\">eneuri@hodinkee.com.

","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"

HODINKEE Editorial Plan: Not for one minute do we think watches really matter now, or ever. But we do know that people are looking for a place to escape and enjoy a hobby as a bit of reprieve. We know this because we've heard it countless times over the past week. And on that note, we will push things harder than ever before. Here are some things to look forward to:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>A brand new episode of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/packages/reference-points/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points</a> dropping this week.</li> <li>More stories about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-not-picking-a-birthday-watch/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">our own watches</a> than ever before.</li> <li>All the new watches of 2020, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/packages/new-watches-2020/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">in one place</a>.</li> <li>Daily AMAs with editors and friends of HODINKEE on Instagram (5 PM ET). </li> <li>Friday Live will return very soon. (Thanks, Zoom!)</li> <li>The launch of \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-daily-uplift-yales-science-of-well-being-and-the-joy-of-vulfpeck-live-from-msg/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">The Daily Uplift</a>,\" a daily dose of zen and positivity. </li> <li>\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/podcasts/the-grey-nato/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">The Grey NATO</a> goes to once per week.</li>\r\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["230f12db-23b6-4e68-b55e-0c75778e7a20"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The HODINKEE Shop: Our shop, which is indeed our main source of revenue, has seen a dramatic slowdown over the last few weeks. But we want to encourage you all to check it out, knowing that in many ways it is the lifeblood of this company and, we hope, a key vehicle in helping other folks in this industry stay alive. Now, more than ever, I would encourage you, if you are looking to buy a watch, to buy it new and authorized, as those sales help retailers, distributors, and manufacturers stay afloat. Here are some things you will see <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">from our shop</a> starting immediately.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>Free domestic shipping on all orders.</li> <li>Morning AMAs with our own shop curators every Tuesday and Thursday at 10 AM ET on Instagram.</li> <li>A 10% donation of all sales, site-wide, to the Coronavirus Relief Fund – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.globalgiving.org/projects/coronavirus-relief-fund//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">GlobalGiving</a>.</li>\r\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, we'd been saving this one for our store opening, but we'd like to offer one example of every single <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/limited/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Limited Edition</a> for sale at its original retail price. Yup, we've been able to buy back one of each watch from the very beginning, and we want you guys to have the chance to buy them. If interested, send a note to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/pages/editor/\"mailto:limited@hodinkee.com/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">limited@hodinkee.com</a> and we'll do it on a first-come, first-serve basis.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e70903d5-8c0b-4a6b-8bfb-94ea6d3939c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We are in truly precarious times here – even at HODINKEE. We are in the unique position of being a very small company that occupies the position of a very large one within an industry. I have made a promise to my employees that not a single person would lose their job throughout this, and I'd hope for nothing more than to have played a small part in saving many more jobs around the world. Because HODINKEE's greatest accomplishment, and the achievement for which I am truly most proud, is not about education or entertainment, nor the sales of watches, but for the community, friendships, and trust that we have helped grow over the last twelve years.\nYours,\nBenjamin Clymer","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As a reminder, make sure to download our apps: The HODINKEE app (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.hodinkee.zeitwerk\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Android</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/hodinkee/id1008305274/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">iOS</a>), as well as Watchville app (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.north.watchville&hl=en_US\%22 rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Android</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/watchville/id932598030/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">iOS</a>).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"column":{"id":1,"slug":"article","name":"Article","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.918-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:00.996-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"55cd98e4-80d3-42d0-a3b6-a9eff5882fa9","container_id":7620,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1584983430600-dsjj0qsibpr-9013aa72bf793a8535de6d8fd38461e6/291A5667.jpg","width":2880,"height":1650,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-03-23T13:05:00.722-04:00","updated_at":"2020-03-23T13:17:07.163-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1584983430600-dsjj0qsibpr-9013aa72bf793a8535de6d8fd38461e6/291A5667.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-open-letter-to-the-watch-community","full_title":"An Open Letter To The Watch Community","tags":[]}]}">

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