Our friend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.watchesofespionage.com//" target=\"_blank\">Watches of Espionage</a> has tracked these watches, but notably, one “unit watch” that sticks out is one made for special police units in France that protect the Olympic Games in Paris. This has a number of differences – the unit watches have matte black dials and bezels, with creamy lume. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a393b05d-ef26-498d-93cb-61179ebd4118"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Thanks to a photo shared by Omega on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C-Zy1p9N0ge/?igsh=eDNhd3pkcGg5c2c=\%22 target=\"\">Instagram</a> (after all the buzz started) we now have the clearest picture yet and, in addition to all the features we mentioned above, the watch also has a wave-pattern dial. Is this Omega's take on Rolex's no-date Submariner, a watch a lot of people have been waiting for quite some time to get their hands on? I have a feeling we’ll know soon enough.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>This story has been updated based on newly shared photos. 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It seems like each Olympics, more and more watch brands are getting on board with sponsoring some of the world's most talented athletes, and Paris 2024 is no exception. Even more surprising to me is how many athletes are wearing watches while competing.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["29f7d65c-62fb-4ac4-897b-76130cc08ef1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is officially Omega's Olympics. If you want to sponsor the Olympics but can't keep up with all the timing necessary, well, tough luck. But that's not a problem for Omega. None of the world records or photo finishes would be possible without the athletes, but they also wouldn't be official without Omega's timekeeping capabilities. And speaking of photo finishes, how about that 100m men's final? It was 9.784 seconds of pure nail-biting excitement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've been carefully tracking every athlete (past and present) I've seen with a watch, plus every celebrity watch-spotting opportunity I could find, though there are many more I didn’t include. Since most athletes still don't wear a watch while competing (like Casper Ruud, who was wearing a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-fleming/" target=\"_blank\">Fleming prototype in tantalum</a> this week), there are plenty of great watches getting left out. But let's start with the wrists of the 100m finals, beginning with the gold medal winner, U.S.A.'s Noah Lyles.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Noah Lyles, U.S.A. – Track & Field: Omega Speedmaster Apollo 8 'Dark Side Of The Moon' And Omega Constellation 39mm In Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["de0a64cb-cb14-451a-b120-0be9e02bd93d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a1b653b-3ecb-494f-810b-6da7cbc77c71"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Fred Kerley, U.S.A. – Track & Field: TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Titanium"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ec41f4f2-2630-4e7a-b09b-2b80851021b9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Akani Simbine, South Africa – Track & Field: Richard Mille RM67-02 'Sprint'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["27c1dafd-ac9f-4db9-ad10-958fc2db8559"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce, Jamaica – Track & Field: Richard Mille RM07-04 "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c1990abb-d703-49ff-875f-d794e6a24f05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Yaroslava Mahuchikh, Ukraine – High Jump: Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m 'Ultra Light'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d4691999-18b0-49ed-b0ba-9632374cb7ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Armand Duplantis, Sweden – Pole Vault: Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ultra Light 'Mondo Duplantis'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8fbf470b-dbc3-40da-ac97-8475f7e3ac5c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Break, Off The Field "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alright, well now that we've tackled a bit of track and field, I want to take a break from the action to cover some watches worn by retired athletes, athletes away from the field of play, and some celebrity watch spotting of note that happened at the games. If you're just here for the watches on the Olympians, no worries, there's more of that soon. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Thierry Henry, France – Retired Footballer: Patek Philippe Nautilus x Virgil Abloh x MAD Paris Nautilus Ref. 5726A"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5d2bd0f1-d760-428d-859d-f119ef1bff0e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"LeBron James, U.S.A. – Basketball: Cartier Crash Skeleton In Pink Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6c4925b5-0e13-4a88-8e13-f6ce6042fa3d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Jayson Tatum, U.S.A. – Basketball: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, Ref. 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Pebble"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e9c5c16-eaa9-4e10-b0e6-5f42c2a61508"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lewis Hamilton – Formula 1 Legend: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9fcc6671-d81b-4d35-a9cb-abe23c933582"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tony Parker, France – Basketball (Retired): Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 (Two-Tone)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2ad9c5b6-5d89-48a5-9a7d-cecf65ea283e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Back In The Action (And Medal Ceremonies)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Miles Chamley-Watson, U.S.A. – Fencing: Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph In Yellow Quartz 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Skeleton"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["244bf124-b7e2-4014-8912-2230abc4d5e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Leon Marchand, France – Swimming: Omega Chronoscope Ref. 329.30.43.51.02.002"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c2cc0df0-8fb1-46ec-b4a9-391751c9e8e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tomas Machac, Czech Republic – Tennis: Chronoswiss ReSec Helium"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["85622d2c-f8be-45dc-83ea-ea42533fdfd0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Felix Auger-Aliassime, Canada – Tennis: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b33f23c-ead6-4f4c-8232-15e4d97de971"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Qinwen Zheng, China – Tennis: Rolex Lady Datejust 31mm Two-Tone 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Watch-Spotting Noah Lyles and Other Olympic Athletes","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":22,"slug":"watch_spotting","name":"Watch Spotting","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles that feature photography from news and wire agencies. The focus may be on one watch or multiple watches from a single event.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.241-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:24:41.017-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"a49ac86f-1f75-483f-b551-b3a8767b2a5b","container_id":13631,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8c08689e-ec0a-4d7d-9acd-985b0caf5287/GettyImages-2164972240.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce wearing the Richard Mille RM07-04","created_at":"2024-08-04T17:35:15.050-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-07T21:16:58.314-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8c08689e-ec0a-4d7d-9acd-985b0caf5287/GettyImages-2164972240.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-olympics-2024","full_title":"Watch Spotting: The Biggest Moments (And Watches) Of The Paris 2024 Olympic Games So Far","tags":["omega","richard-mille","watch-spotting","olympics","sports","olympics-2024","track-and-field"]},{"id":13622,"slug":"hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold 'Lumen' – Lange's Most Expensive Serially Produced Watch","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-07T11:00:21.625-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-30T15:12:52.094-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-07T11:01:18.628-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>It's a big watch to celebrate a big year for the Datograph. 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Lange &amp; Söhne would do something big for the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph. This year, 2024, is a year of big anniversaries for the brand. Twenty-five years of the Datograph, 30 years of the restarted brand (and the Lange 1), and the 100th birthday of the late Walter Lange – all of these are worth celebrating. But, as someone senior at the brand told me, the 25th Anniversary was \"bigger than 30,\" and the Datograph was the obvious choice. And yet, when I first saw a preview of the cornerstone piece Lange would later release at Watches &amp; Wonders, I was still surprised.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3b59d90a-1662-4117-b985-38407bde015b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51116a60-d98b-4d81-9e82-e6189e8151ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When it was introduced in 1999, the original Datograph caused a seismic shift in the watch world. The mix of modern technology used to create and manufacture such a beautifully complex flyback chronograph movement, combined with the best hand-finishing the brand could achieve, created something nearly perfect – at least from my modern perspective. Sure, it's a bit thick and a bit heavy (especially in platinum), but it's still a grail for me and many others.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e8da3c36-a48e-4805-8bcf-b4bc252dfb35"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even in the moment, it just struck a chord. As Philippe Dufour once told me, \"I saw the watch and thought, 'This is the best chronograph in the world. We will just have to wait and see what the Swiss can do to beat it.' Well, it's been 25 years, and I'm still waiting.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["39320158-bc44-4209-a0ce-96abcebcda58","067fbc72-5792-429d-92b2-1880e4c57e53"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, when it came to the anniversary release, I'm not sure what I was expecting from Lange. Twenty-five years seems like as good a time as any to say, \"We've taken the bar of the 'basic' Datograph and raised it with a brand new movement,\" which – if I were a betting man – would have been where I put my money. In some ways, what they did instead was the more obvious, outrageous, and obscenely incredible choice: take every \"trick\" that already existed in the Lange book and make the most expensive serially-produced watch in the brand's history. The result was the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen – DPT Lumen for short. Fifty pieces. $620,000. Talk about making a splash. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["469f6960-6a72-4382-b131-85b2f8d1928e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've talked about this before, but I view a watch like this as completely divorced from engaging with the price in any meaningful way. It's so much, in fact, that it caused me and a few other folks to laugh when we heard the price. And while I'm not saying that the customers who put money down (50% deposit, I've been told) didn't have to think twice about buying this, I don't believe they're really comparison shopping a watch like this the same way I would be with a Tudor. I also don't know what the comparable options are on the market. Can you think of another modern perpetual calendar tourbillon watch with a flyback chronograph? I can't.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I do think it's worth mentioning that this is $332,200 more than the white-gold, salmon-dial DPT that came out two years ago. That delta doesn't make sense to me, despite the additional features you get with the new Lumen. But I think of this as a very binary two-part decision: you either want to buy this specific watch or you don't; you either have the money, or you don't. I definitely can't afford, but these were always the kind of watches I loved to read about – aspirational, wild, and the pinnacle for many collectors. So, for context and kicks, here's a look at the three more expensive (publicly known) Langes ever produced.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bab7fc42-2fa4-4ce6-b589-90f838213542"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first and most obvious watch that is technically Lange's most expensive piece is its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Complication from 2013</a>. That watch clocked in at a whopping $2.6 million at the time of release, double the price of Patek's then-most-expensive watch, the Sky Moon Tourbillon, and 50mm in diameter with an over 20mm thick rose-gold case. Inside that case was a 40mm movement with a perpetual calendar with moonphase, a split-seconds chronograph with flying seconds, and a grande and petite sonnerie with minute repeater. But this watch was made in only two prototypes and six numbered examples, made on request for customers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ba8e1675-2e85-459e-81fd-4fb217f88cf9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The next two are unique pieces. In 2009, one customer purchased a Tourbograph \"Pour le Mérite\" <i>pièce unique</i> made for the retailer Dubail, with 201 baguette diamonds set into a diamond case and diamond-set bracelet to go with. Thanks to SJX, there are photos of this watch as well, which clocked in at €1,200,000. Then, another <i>pièce unique </i>was auctioned off in 2018, an A. Lange &amp; Söhne 1815 \"Homage To Walter Lange\" in steel that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-homage-walter-lange-stainless-steel-sells/" target=\"_blank\">sold for $852,525 all in</a>. Oh, then there's also a rumored gem-set Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon <i>pièce unique </i>out there that cost north of $800,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["46b92f45-9eab-4038-a5d6-830ef98ec6d2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold \"Lumen\" feels far more like a modern Lange in a lot of ways – a modern, refined aesthetic, a bit more going on with the dial, and a movement that accomplishes much of the best of the other two, and in some ways more. What do you get with the new release instead of a <i>pièce unique</i>? As I mentioned before, Lange pulled out basically every other stop. Let's start with the two most obvious (at least in daylight).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9ca3c4d0-b008-418b-8739-bf4da9ae86b3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Normally, the case material is just a mention in the broader story but with Lange's proprietary Honeygold, it's a main feature. The alloy shifts from pink to white, is used only in extremely special cases going back to 2010's \"165 Years – Homage to F. A. Lange\" anniversary edition. In that case, the watches were the Tourbograph \"Pour le Mérite,\" the Lange 1 Tourbillon, and the 1815 Moon Phase. In 2011, the brand launched the Richard Lange Tourbillon \"Pour le Mérite\" Handwerkskunst in the metal. There are more, but most recently, it was also the material used the Zeitwerk \"Lumen\" in 2021. Until that point, \"Lumen\" models were made in platinum – plenty nice, and all, but not as special in Lange circles as Honeygold.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["abc4f439-8744-4896-8b15-6e71e06ac4b0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can see in photos that the material can take on a lot of hues. In one shooting setup, the watch was sitting on a warmer-colored surface, and it picked up that color. On a cooler material, like the blue surface, portions almost fade to white. The case itself measures 41.5mm in diameter by 14.5mm, 1.4mm thicker than the Datograph Up/Down, which is actually remarkable to me, considering how much more complex the movement inside is.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d4867cb2-0b4e-4724-af59-2972c4a00543"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One last note about the case before moving to the movement. The case on the DPT has a raised flange on the caseback, which slopes up to the display caseback. That seems to slim the watch a bit visually and on the wrist, it seems to make the mid-case sit a bit higher so the watch is more balanced.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If it wasn't for the whole \"Lumen\" thing, the movement would be the start. And credit to Lange, this is a new movement for the DPT – the hand-wound caliber L952.4 with 50 hours of power reserve. This isn't the same as the L952.2 in the other current DPT models in the lineup. The movement maintains nearly all the same functions (flyback chronograph, large date at 12 o'clock, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon) but sheds the power reserve indicator on the DPT and in doing so, has 45 fewer parts. That simplifies the luminous display that would have been too crowded otherwise.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7583724f-a703-4048-bf95-0e661d0a5973"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These modifications aren't as simple as pulling out the power reserve section of the gear train and leaving it there. The movement has been reworked much more substantially, though it might be hard to tell at a glance. The movement also has added parts necessary to support the sapphire dial. But everything is still the best of what you could hope for from a Lange. A movement like this – this size with these tight tolerances – would be impossible to envision without modern technical aids, but results in that mass of bridges and levers that creates a wild depth that I've come to dream about in a watch. Every time I see a Lange chronograph, I hold it – movement side up – at eye level and tilt it so I can feel like the watch is 10 feet deep. The experience isn't quite the same here as it is with the Triple Split, but it's still something fantastic.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c0a6e938-7294-418d-bbf0-662698d979d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking even closer, the watch also has the brand's hand finishing all over. Technically, the watch has 57 jewels, but one of those is a diamond end stone capping the tourbillon pivot. While the movement doesn't have the same patina that the German silver will take on over time, it's also not harshly white, which gives it a bit of extra character. The inclusion of the tourbillon adds complexity, but it also takes away a small bit of the area that gives the movement the visual depth. It's still quite remarkable to look at, though.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1e810b75-f306-41ad-ae85-1133773b0598"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now to the moment (or the feature) that you all were waiting for: the light show, which – if I'm being honest – is probably what most non-buyers go crazy for (though I'm sure the owners won't scoff at it either). Through that smoked sapphire dial, Lange shows off a copious amount of lume on and under the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab9ca17c-121e-41f9-8a62-1040af31d9ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A bit of backstory for the \"Lumen\" series. According to Anthony de Haas, A. Lange &amp; Söhne Product Development Director, the idea came one night while he was struggling to read the time on his Zeitwerk, which had no lume. Long story short, the result was the 2010 Zeitwerk \"Luminous.\" Three years later, the \"Lumen\" name would make its first appearance with the Grand Lange 1. Next to get the treatment was the Grand Lange 1 Moonphase in 2016 and Datograph Up/Down in 2018. Most recently was the Zeitwerk Lumen in Honeygold, which begs the question: is this the sign of a new era of Honeygold \"Lumen\"?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8a0c751d-fd76-4dce-8c34-f88aa56fea3c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The external track maintains that same base 1000 meter tachymeter scale of the DPT for the flyback chronograph, this time lit up with lume underneath the white text. At 12 o'clock you can see the outsized date display clearly through the aperture in the dial (surrounded in Honeygold to match the indices). The other numbers are visible but not distracting because they're diffused by the sapphire. The hands have luminous inserts, and the entire chronograph hand is coated in lume. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dddda79d-ffc3-494c-bc13-beb8bb70a558"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Compared to the Datograph Up/Down \"Lumen\" from 2018, the watch doesn't feel that much harder to read, but for some reason the date seems to shine through a little more. Everything essential you'd want to see at a glance is visible, and with a closer look, you can see the rest of the info given by the DPT.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8b54e3e7-79d1-4bfe-a067-5b1ebe6e6293"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The subdials still display running seconds, day of the week, and day/night at eight o'clock, while the elapsed chronograph minutes, month, and leap year indication are at four o'clock. It's a pretty compact way to show all that information and well organized in terms of most to least important display being largest to smallest. Oh, you can't forget the luminous moonphase.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b5c3e1b3-895d-4e95-bdd2-54fc6b7de3c2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The luminous feature is fantastic, but I really love the fact that this is so legible in the light despite being transparent enough to see the dial underneath. It's something not many brands get right with skeletonized or semi-skeletonized dials and seems to have at least somewhat inspired <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5316-50P-001/" target=\"_blank\">Patek's recent 5316/50P-001</a>. For good reason too. With a bluish smoked sapphire contrasting against the creamy white subdials and other accents, it's one of the most attractive and legible takes yet on a semi-skeletonized watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["131fa639-770e-4e23-9c3e-bd2d4676640d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["04892168-5fe9-4df5-9dcb-3391012d62b6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>People often say that Lange's movements are so beautiful they'd wear the watch upside down if they could. With the Lumen, you get a bit of that experience. As for the rest of the wearability – does it really matter? It's far more wearable than the 50mm Grand Complication, so that's certainly a start. But while there's a lot of heft between the complex movement and the gold case, it really is a surprisingly wearable option.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And yet, just like price, that's all kind of beside the point. This is Lange doing what they do best for the sake of it, celebrating a big moment in its history with one of the best watches from their catalog, and then offering it to clients. If you're a collector looking down at this watch on your wrist, I'm guessing the size, weight, and price are all the furthest things from your mind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8cbd8592-f3cc-4b9b-a918-27e050f89104"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>A. Lange &amp; Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold \"Lumen,\" Reference 740.055FE; 41.5mm diameter by 14.5mm thick 18k Honeygold case, with 30m water resistance. Smoked semi-transparent dial made of sapphire crystal, 18k Honeygold hands and indices; Perpetual calendar with moonphase, hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon. Luminous material in and under the dial. L952.4 manually-wound movement with 684 parts features and 50 hours of power reserve. Dark brown alligator strap. Limited to 50 pieces. Price: $620,000.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Special thanks to </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/waitlisted/" target=\"_blank\"><i>James Kong</i></a><i> for his assistance with the lume photos</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"fc8cafc2-61f6-4b74-9443-748224555deb","container_id":13622,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c5d6eb79-bbab-470a-8f60-339add4d7056/20240407_LangeDatographs_021.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-07-30T15:12:52.222-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-30T15:12:52.222-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c5d6eb79-bbab-470a-8f60-339add4d7056/20240407_LangeDatographs_021.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen","full_title":"Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold 'Lumen' – Lange's Most Expensive Serially Produced Watch","tags":["a-lange-sohne","tourbillon","perpetual-calendar","datograph","honey-gold","datograph-perpetual-tourbillon","lumen","honeygold"]},{"id":13633,"slug":"introducing-mondo-seamaster-titanium","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Omega's Newest Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Titanium Was Stealth-Launched With Armand Duplantis' World-Record Pole Vault","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-06T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-06T10:31:40.403-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-06T13:28:40.614-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>He set a world record height of 6.25m with something special on his wrist. Now we have the answer.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":84293,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last night, Armand \"Mondo\" Duplantis, the Swedish-American pole vaulting legend representing Sweden in the Olympics, did things only he could imagine. Cool, calm, collected, and joking with friends, he skipped most heights and only started to take things seriously after he had secured the gold by a wide margin. He casually set a new Olympic record of 6.10 and then decided, \"Why not beat my own world record by one centimeter?\" On his third attempt, he cleared 6.25m (though Omega's tracking data showed he could have cleared an incredible 6.5m), and the crowd – and Mondo – went wild. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["39af0da7-d1fc-4958-9509-8ee0d2c87b37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, as he posed for pictures with his record, I noticed something. He was wearing a watch Omega doesn't technically make – until today, that is. We're operating in uncharted territory here. I have no press release or information other than what's on the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-150m-co-axial-master-chronometer-41-mm-22092412103002/" target=\"_blank\">brand's website</a>, but I'm sharing it anyway. This is the new Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ultra Light, which I'm calling the \"Mondo Duplantis Edition.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In June, Omega announced a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-150m-co-axial-master-chronometer-41-mm-22012412103009/" target=\"_blank\">steel Aqua Terra 150 inspired by Mondo Duplantis</a>, with a blue dial and blue strap with yellow accents for his country's colors. It's a solid watch but essentially a color swap. This titanium Ultra Light model is also just a color swap, but this time, it's for a world record. The watch measures 41mm by 13.5mm thick, with a 49.2mm lug-to-lug and a special yellow and blue rubber strap that integrates into the unusual lug design. Like the other Ultra Light Aqua Terras, the case is made of sand-blasted Gamma Titanium, with a sand-blasted silicon nitride bezel ring and a tucked-in crown. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["011e3a3b-0739-4383-b0c5-1264cc70559b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch is powered by Omega's caliber 8928 Ti, previously released as the brand's first ever titanium movement. It's manually-wound, with 72 hours of power reserve, with hours, minutes, seconds, and a time-zone function that allows you to jump the hour hand forward and back like on a \"flyer\" GMT. It is also Master Chronometer certified. The kicker is that the titanium movement combined with the titanium case brings the total weight of the watch down to 55 grams (compared to about 148 grams for the watch in stainless steel on bracelet).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In case there was any confusion, when Omega stealth-launched this new watch (they just posted it on their website without a press release as of yet), they have also stated that this is the very watch Duplantis wore when he claimed gold and set a new world record. Now you can get one too – the watch, not the gold medal – for $51,300.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Can you tell I have Olympic fever? Well, I do, and apparently, I am really sick, just like this watch. I don't know what it is about the other Ultra Light Aqua Terras that never really did it for me. Maybe it's the grey dial on grey case that felt a little flat, but this new watch with the bolder colors really looks so much better.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1aae5a36-1e09-404a-a499-58c4dee4422b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wondered why Omega would do a steel watch for a pole vaulter. If anything, I assume this is one of the places where being extra light would really help improve performance and 55 grams really is very light for a watch this size. The steel Aqua Terra was attractive if you were looking at the model lineup, but I definitely wondered about performance. Not that Duplantis needs any help – he sets world records in tiny increments because he gets a bonus for every new world record, once per competition. He's barely reached his full potential, but building hype like this is just good business. But last night, I was confident that he was wearing something new. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've never actually seen one of the Ultra Light models in person, but I'm hoping to see them very soon. It's not a cheap prospect, and the tucked-in crown has me curious about how finicky it might be to wind every few days. All that said, hats off to Omega for figuring out a way to drop something new on the biggest stage and to them – and Mondo – for doing it so casually.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Omega<br><strong>Model:</strong> Aqua Terra 150m Ultra Light<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>220.92.41.21.03.002</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 41mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.5mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Gamma Titanium<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Blue<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Yes<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 150m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Yellow and blue rubber</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79651de8-dea7-42f5-afba-40ad0e7867e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> OMEGA 8928 Ti<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, time-zone function<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 29mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 72 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Manual<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 25,200<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 29<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> METAS-Certified Master Chronometer </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $51,300<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Now<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>No</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-150m-co-axial-master-chronometer-41-mm-22092412103002/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d50010d7-d93b-4e7f-9268-3c01ecbf6729","container_id":13633,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8fb2f8d2-14dd-4a9a-97f7-21c79af436c3/Hero_Mondo.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Mondo Duplantis Aqua Terra Titanium","created_at":"2024-08-06T10:31:40.592-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-06T10:31:40.592-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8fb2f8d2-14dd-4a9a-97f7-21c79af436c3/Hero_Mondo.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-mondo-seamaster-titanium","full_title":"Introducing: Omega's Newest Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Titanium Was Stealth-Launched With Armand Duplantis' World-Record Pole Vault","tags":["omega","olympics","omega-aqua-terra","aqua-terra","olympics-2024"]},{"id":13632,"slug":"olympics-2024-mens-100m-photo-finish","column_slug":"the_sports_section","title":"How Omega Captured The Men's 100m Final Photo Finish (And The Watch Noah Lyles Wore While Winning)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-05T08:20:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-04T18:38:36.250-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-05T11:16:27.281-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>It's one of the closest Olympic finishes in history. Let's look at how close 0.005 seconds really is.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":81882,"public_token":"6cd94e0e651be209d6a2f4516469eb2a","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the weekend, I was taking a break from putting together an upcoming Olympics watch spotting when I decided to grab a slice of pizza. At that same moment, in stark contrast to my dietary habits, the eight fastest men in the world were about to put on a show. Everyone in the pizza joint had stopped what they were doing, and together, we watched one of the closest finishes in Olympic history. The final winning time was 9.784 seconds. Just 0.005 seconds separated U.S.A.'s Noah Lyles gold medal run and Kishane Thompson of Jamaica. Five milliseconds. It takes an human one TENTH of a second to blink. That’s wild. And thanks to a photo from Omega's line-scan (or slit-scan) photo finish camera called the Omega Scan'O'Vision, we can see how close 0.005 looks.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b95d2380-6cd1-49be-924f-eede1fb9696e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If the photo looks strange to you, it's because of the (tried and true) technology used for it. While technology has changed over the years, digital cameras take 1-pixel-wide sequential images of the finish line using a vertical aperture (and taking as many photos as the camera possibly can). It's not so much a picture of a moment in time but of position in space. In fact, the entire photo is literally the finish line viewed one pixel at a time (the Omega and Olympic branding is added at the top). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back in the film days, the film moved across behind a \"slit,\" headed in the same direction as the runner. If the film moves too fast, the finishers look compressed; too slow, and the athletes look like Gumby. In this case, the camera was the Omega Scan'O'Vision Ultimate – an upgrade from the previous 10,000 fps Scan'O'Vision Myria – that can take up to 40,000 frames per second of the finish line, to make the image you see above. The red lines represent the position used by the officials to judge whose torso reached the line first, and that's the part that determines who wins. This time, the order for 1-2-3 was Lyles, Thompson, and U.S.A.'s Fred Kerley. It's Lyles' first Olympic gold.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f62c8e67-01e9-4298-a027-fa8e5f96c72a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not only is a moment like this a big technological triumph for the official Olympic timekeepers, but Omega had the added bonus of Noah Lyles doing it all while wearing a Speedmaster Apollo 8 Dark Side of the Moon. That's not the watch I would have guessed, but after watching the Olympics for over a week, I've seen him wear it a number of times – even in advertisements for other sponsors of the games.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["00bc24db-8da7-4be0-a4c9-9f226dcf70c0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yes, Lyles is a brand ambassador for Omega, but I'm still always shocked that the athletes are wearing watches during their races. If you're looking for a more \"by the numbers\" look at Lyles' win, Omega has this data as well. Lyles' reaction time was 0.178s, with a top speed of 43.6kph or 27 miles per hour. Wearing a watch didn't seem to hurt Lyles at all – he's now \"the fastest man in the world\" and a gold medal winner at the Paris Olympics 2024.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aa7e31bc-dec4-4191-a2bc-56292e4775f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":167,"slug":"the_sports_section","name":"The Sports Section","description":"Where time, watches, and the sporting life meet up.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2021-01-12T16:44:31.735-05:00","updated_at":"2021-01-12T16:44:31.735-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"2ea3cb49-2c00-4726-866b-227a0348517f","container_id":13632,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e12af1ca-a621-486d-8971-11409e532210/GettyImages-2165278092.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Olympics 100m final","created_at":"2024-08-04T18:38:36.357-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-04T18:38:36.357-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e12af1ca-a621-486d-8971-11409e532210/GettyImages-2165278092.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/olympics-2024-mens-100m-photo-finish","full_title":"The Sports Section: How Omega Captured The Men's 100m Final Photo Finish (And The Watch Noah Lyles Wore While Winning)","tags":["omega","olympics","olympics-2024"]},{"id":13617,"slug":"hands-on-green-dial-vacheron-overseas","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Vacheron Constantin's Green Dial, Pink Gold Overseas","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-02T13:01:29.725-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-29T11:53:50.209-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-02T13:01:35.072-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>One of the most versatile integrated bracelet sports watches goes green.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":32110,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier this year at Watches &amp; Wonders, Vacheron Constantin basically overshadowed everything else they could do by breaking their own record for \"world's most complicated watch\" with the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vacheron-constantin-berkley-grand-comp/" target=\"_blank\">Berkley Grand Complication</a>. Despite being a one-off piece, it drew pretty sizable crowds to Vacheron's booth to see a watch that would likely not be publicly displayed for a long time. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But that wasn't the end of things for Vacheron at the trade show. And as loathe as I am to wax poetic about a new dial color (with one recent exception), this watch has stuck in my mind over the last few months: the Overseas Dual Time in pink gold with green lacquered sunburst dial. Yes, it's a new dial color, but its a very attractive one and representative of the truth in the adage, \"more options isn't a bad thing.\" So let's spend a few minutes with it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c52349ee-522c-4efc-8d7c-9215079727c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The pink gold Overseas is a watch platform that I'm oddly familiar with, though not because of any luck of owning one. One of my first press events for Hodinkee was to cover the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-vacheron-constantin-overseas-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-skeleton-in-pink-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton in pink gold</a>. Before that, one of my biggest random \"man on the street\" watch spottings was a guy at a wedding wearing the unskeletonized version. But these are rare watches and I've never seen them in the wild again. But they've stuck with me because of how captivating and extremely comfortable they are.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b23ed0b9-4829-4589-ba3d-690f697dd33f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Overseas Dual Time is another watch I have strong feelings about. Vacheron absolutely knocked it out of the park when they released the Overseas Dual Time \"Everest,\" and while I never really was anywhere close to buying it, it's so perfect in my eyes that it's hard not to feel like it's \"one that got away.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e30f965c-c993-492e-89a1-7e6b11d166e4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Overseas Dual Time in pink gold, with the green satin-sunburst enamel dial falls into a completely different category than either of the above in many respects. Far too dressy and heavy to be making its way up Everest, yet sporty enough to be a watch you could wear far more often than a skeleton QP, it nicely rounds out Vacheron's offering for the line. So far, the brand had offered three dials in steel (white, black, and blue) and one pink-gold option with a white dial and only a strap. Now, with the heft of a gold bracelet, it's the most fully formed option for gold lovers yet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ea3ae9e7-61f7-4b99-8ca9-26fc5190e599"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's not an affordable option by any stretch (shocker, it's 18k pink gold) and will run you $75,500 if you can get your hands on one, but on the wrist, it wears quite well. At 41mm by 12mm thick, it's not a particularly thick watch, but the heft of the pink gold will obviously weigh you down a bit – but that's what you're shooting for if you're shopping for a watch like this.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47a2030b-28dd-46ec-bbf8-2953dbb91c5f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A dual-time watch like this is inherently a bit messy on the dial side. Without an AM/PM bezel, you've got a lot going on to give you all the time you need. But Vacheron has done a good job cleaning the dial up from the older generation of Overseas Dual Time. And the main attraction that stuck in my mind was the dial, specifically the way the green sunburst pops against the pink gold case. I know that green dials had their moment and even got a bit passé, but I really dig this one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["94a22066-a01d-4f40-ba43-88a2b3d0f13d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other part of the wearability I have to highlight is the versatility of the watch being offered with the full bracelet (which, is a $27,000 up-charge over the white dial model without). Yes, it costs a lot more, but I think that the Overseas might have the most comfortable and versatile integrated bracelet of the \"Holy Trinity\" brands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["27c0f7c2-deb5-4dc9-b2e9-4a3f05634247"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab34e9ce-dd22-43b1-a709-700a0252768d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Overseas not only has a comfortable link structure but a nice deployant that never digs into your wrist. The shape, lines, and facets run cleanly from bracelet to case. But the fact that you can completely change the look and feel of the watch with ease because of the quick release button at the back of the watch is a game-changer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6db5fa24-cabd-4ee3-ba55-c782035a1d16"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can see, in this case I removed one side to show you the automatic Vacheron 5110 DT/2 movement with <i>Poincon de Genève </i>(Geneva Seal) certification. The movement runs at 28,800vph with 60 hours of power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback, while still giving the watch an extra sporty 150m of water resistance. And if you are going to put that water resistance to the test, you can easily switch to the brand's included rubber strap. Or, if you want to dress up without being loud, there's a quick-change green leather strap as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b79b6d3-318c-440c-8399-085ea5e5d698"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["82efcdbf-3202-41f8-af2b-4b4fcf457649"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm a Packers fan, a Green Bay-raised Cheesehead, so you don't have to sell me too hard on the green and gold combination, but this one does particularly well. But it's not the only green dial option released this year, so I want to touch on one of the other ones that came out.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5a52825f-cfbc-4bb4-8779-77a0c2570397"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you were looking for something simpler, Vacheron covered that as well. The new 41mm Self-Winding Overseas also now comes in that same green and pink gold combo (as does the 35mm version with a diamond-set bezel, which I didn't photograph). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a27c87e0-4059-4ede-b83c-57afa0c58aa9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the case of the Overseas Self-Winding 41mm, you get a more simplified option. Measuring 41mm in diameter by 10.69mm, the watch still has largely the same specs of 60 hours of power reserve and 150m of water resistance, but a pared-down display features only hours, minutes, seconds, and the date at three o'clock. It's not that much thinner than the dual time and I'd be happy to see this as an option without the date. But it's possible that there's a well-heeled businessman out there looking for a watch like this who <i>needs</i> the date.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eec71c82-b636-4d69-ab65-40fe104b4548"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13e59c9f-84ff-4ec4-9bb0-36662e5c3a02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At $60,500, it's actually not that much in the way of savings over the Dual Time. That $15,000 sure hits a lot harder when you're talking about upgrading from time-only to dual-time in steel. But if you're comparison shopping these two models in pink gold, I imagine you're thinking more about use-case and aesthetic over budget. It feels like Vacheron has crept up a tiny bit in price over the past few years, but I think with all the talk of market contraction, they've done a good job of not overdoing it like other brands have. Either option will still be good for the kind of customer shopping at the price point. If it was my decision (and my imaginary budget), I'd go Dual Time all the way.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a3078275-2972-4ffd-8ebc-3f14193e3377"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time, ref. 7920V/210R-B965; 41mm diameter by 12mm thick 18k pink gold case, with 150m water resistance. Green lacquered dial with sunburst satin-finished base, circular-finished internal minutes track</i>,<i> and velvet-finished external minutes track. Snailed counters. Red 18K gold dual-time hands. 18K gold applied hour/minute hands and hour markers highlighted with blue SuperLuminova. Hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time with day/night indicator. Automatic movement operating at 28,800 VPH with 60 hours of power reserve. 18k pink gold bracelet and included quick-change green calfskin leather and rubber straps. Price: $75,500.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding, ref. 4520V/210R-B967; 41mm diameter by 10.69mm thick 18k pink gold case, with 150m water resistance. Green lacquered dial with sunburst satin-finished base. Date at 3 o'clock. 18K gold applied hour/minute hands and hour markers highlighted with blue SuperLuminova. Hours, minutes, seconds, date,. Automatic movement operating at 28,800 VPH with 60 hours of power reserve. 18k pink gold bracelet and included quick-change green calfskin leather and rubber straps. Price: $60,500.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"936f76f2-0ebd-47e4-9739-775411d24df2","container_id":13617,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/b7e65d02-0b88-42f6-8886-73312de29a1f/20240410_Vacheron_012.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Vacheron Constantin's Green Dial Pink Gold Overseas Dual Time and Time Only","created_at":"2024-07-29T11:53:50.250-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-29T13:59:15.545-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b7e65d02-0b88-42f6-8886-73312de29a1f/20240410_Vacheron_012.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-green-dial-vacheron-overseas","full_title":"Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin's Green Dial, Pink Gold Overseas","tags":["vacheron-constantin","overseas","hands-on","overseas-dual-time"]},{"id":13619,"slug":"introducing-grand-seiko-us-exclusive-2024","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Two New Grand Seiko U.S. Exclusive Releases – SBGA507 & SBGA509","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-01T09:00:11.981-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-30T12:50:38.101-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-01T09:01:08.192-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Grand Seiko pays tribute to the transitioning sky over Lake Suwa with its new regional releases.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":51248,"public_token":"d7a8ddbe5a5b3b095925e3afb134ab63","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the heat of summer, Grand Seiko is dropping two cool new interpretations of their 44GS design for the U.S. market, both drawing from the various hues of the sunrise and sunset over Lake Suwa to the southeast of the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Spring Drive watches are made. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8b51ed5c-bdc9-4012-abea-f65a469b0760"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both watches are powered by the Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 caliber with 72 hours of power reserve and ±15 seconds per month of accuracy. That movement is visible through a display caseback in the otherwise stainless steel case (with stainless steel bracelet) that measures 40mm by 12.5mm. But as it often is, these limited editions are all about the dial. Both have a<i> kirazuri ukiyo-e</i> woodblock print texture, one in a rosy pink hue and the other in a nice soft blue. For those who, like me, aren't well versed in what that means, Japanese for \"sparkling painting,\" <i>kirazuri</i> is found in the Japanese art of woodblock prints, incorporating mica powder to impart a sparkling shimmer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["da974b5a-82d6-4b62-b167-9836bd24d108"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I haven't seen these watches in person, they should have the quintessential Grand Seiko dial that plays with light. Each watch will be limited to 300 pieces and will retail for $5,600, available at boutiques, retailers, and Grand Seiko's online boutique starting today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It might not feel like it, but Grand Seiko seems to have become slower and more thoughtful about their limited editions, giving a lot of attention to each of their releases without burning folks out on a deluge of SKUs. Sure, these are new limited editions, but they have everything you'd want from a Grand Seiko in terms of design, finishing, and the brand's more affordable price point. What's not to like?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["53ed3177-81a8-4949-9363-4fb45ee80331"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not sure what it is about Grand Seiko's pink dials, but they seem to be more loved than I'd have expected. The SBGA413 may have a more soft pink hue, but the demand for that watch leads me to believe the SBGA509 will probably be the more asked after of the releases. The blue dial seems to shift color quite a bit in the light, which also makes it a versatile option for something between dressy and sporty.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["be506d0d-1345-4049-a7ee-e9c35c5e1d42"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Grand Seiko<br><strong>Model:</strong> SBGA507 &amp; SBGA509</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 40mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 12.5mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Stainless steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Dusty rose hue or cool blue<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Polished applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> None<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 100m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Stainless steel with three-fold clasp</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["58ed5490-25d6-4691-8206-be340de12cc8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Spring Drive Caliber 9R65<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power-reserve indicator<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 72 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic <br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m; See-through screw caseback</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $5,600 for either<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Immediately at Grand Seiko boutiques, select authorized retail partners, and online.<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>Yes, 300 pieces each</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Grand Seiko SBGA507 & SBGA509 Review","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"02872317-5e00-4fd3-bd58-126799b35319","container_id":13619,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/04f4f0bd-bf67-4905-9dba-12b9c47a3580/Hero-GS-US-2024.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Two New Grand Seiko U.S. Exclusive Releases – SBGA507 & SBGA509","created_at":"2024-07-30T12:50:38.244-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-30T12:50:38.244-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/04f4f0bd-bf67-4905-9dba-12b9c47a3580/Hero-GS-US-2024.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-grand-seiko-us-exclusive-2024","full_title":"Introducing: Two New Grand Seiko U.S. Exclusive Releases – SBGA507 & SBGA509","tags":["grand-seiko","introducing","44gs"]},{"id":13609,"slug":"in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-2","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 2: The Rarest Examples And A Buyers Guide","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-29T09:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-23T18:33:49.129-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-31T10:17:49.507-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>It's almost more freeing to gawk at the rarest watches without worrying if you'll be able to buy them. But if you <i>are</i> buying, we’ve got you covered too.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":18651,"public_token":"dbbd764f579a3c0e21bb614abdc74bbb","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Recently, we took an exhaustive look at the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 2497 from a scholarly perspective</a>, tearing down each minute detail that makes Patek's first center-seconds perpetual calendar so remarkable. If you ever had a question about production numbers or design details, you hopefully have your answer now. But frankly, that's not the fun part. As it always is, the fun part is looking at the incredibly rare stuff.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In part two, we're going to tackle the stuff that people like me (who will likely never buy a watch like this) will really enjoy – checking out the rarest types. It's like window shopping a vintage Ferrari dealer: purely aspirational but equally satisfying. Heck, maybe someday you'll be able to strap one of these on your wrist or sit in the seat of a 250 GT Lusso. One can hope. You'll at least have all the knowledge you need to know how truly rare the experience is.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, later in the story, I'll give you my take on a buyers guide for those people who are lucky enough to actually be shopping for one of these rare watches. Fair warning, it's a lot to digest (and even longer than the last one) so don't try to eat it all in one bite. This is a story best broken up into multiple sittings.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Rarest Of The Rare"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are many tremendous examples of the 2497 out there, and new ones keep coming to the market. Only 56 examples of a total of 114 made have been discovered, so in theory, there's still room to find something not seen publicly before. Earlier this month, a new pink example (movement number 042) came up at an auction house in Spain and fetched over a million dollars (one dealer told me it was worth somewhere between $1.2 and 1.4 million). Part of that of the rarity of the case material (it was only the 10th pink 2497 found) and its excellent condition. But there are a handful of notable examples you should know if you're going to study (or hunt) this reference.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Breguet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is, in my mind, one ref. 2497 to rule them all. About a year ago, I started a list of five watches I'd like to see come to auction again, if for no other reasons than 1) I'd have to fly out and see them for myself; and 2) because they'd completely reset our understanding of the price a rare watch can achieve. This was the first watch on that list and it basically speaks for itself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d60dcf87-d147-4f30-bc20-33870dc0e6ad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Platinum. Breguet numerals. That should be all you need to know. This watch, movement number 888'075, might be one of the most incredibly striking (oh god, I'm using auction terms) Patek Philippe watches ever made. Only two examples of the reference were made in platinum, both with Wenger cases, but the fact that they are in platinum trumps any preference for Vichet case design. In fact, Patek (to my knowledge) never made another platinum perpetual calendar until the 1980s, with the 2499P. The fact that this is my favorite of the two comes down solely to those hard enamel Breguet numerals on the dial. The open and very austere minute track around the outside is also a nice touch. The whole package has a balance of sporty and elegant that you just can't beat.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff5e5513-6484-4caa-a285-a3ef3ca2031b","de1fda10-d1af-4d33-a838-cfb6d494b26f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch hasn't been seen publicly since it was auctioned off during its first and only appearance at Christie's in 2008 from the family of the original owner. It was a wild sale, the same one where Philippe Stern and Arnaud Tellier beat out the rest of the world for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-incredible-watches-and-cars-of-briggs-cunningham/" target=\"_blank\">Briggs Cunningham Jr.'s steel ref. 1526</a>. The price for the ref. 2497P? All in, CHF 3,207,400 and, as those in the room will tell you, it went to a friend of Hodinkee: Alfredo Paramico. Again, that's 2008 pricing. How much would it go for today? I asked a few people (some of whom bid on the watch then), and we all arrived at the same range: $7.5 to 10 million without breaking a sweat, maybe even $12 million. A four-million-dollar jump in 16 years is a lot. Seven million would make headlines.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Platinum With Diamonds "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It was hard to pick one of the two platinum references to discuss first, so don't let that fool you into thinking this example is anything but extraordinary. The watch, movement number 888'029, is an entirely beautifully designed take on the reference, possibly my favorite perpetual calendar ever done. The watch, Wenger-cased like almost all other non-yellow metals, features diamond indices on three-quarters of the dial, with three, nine, and 12 o'clock featuring baguette diamonds. It also has rose gold leaf hands, which add a pop to the dial. Then there's the bracelet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1f3508ca-6612-4c28-a25d-d9342bb15e7d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The flat, polished brick bracelet is likely from Gay Frères, as are the rare other original bracelets sold with ref. 2497s. It's cut such that it nestles against the case perfectly, making an almost completely integrated design.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b11fddd-81c9-4993-8c14-b2659305be06"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's not much else I can tell you about this watch. It seems to first have come up 1997, when it was <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2497-lot-96-199/" target=\"_blank\">sold at Antiquorum</a> for a (now comically low) approximately $750,000, which would have been a massive result at the time. Next, it sold at Phillips in 2001. This watch, in the hands of a private collector, is an example I almost got to see in person. At that time, I was shown more recent cell phone pictures, but I'm sharing photos that John Goldberger took for Assouline's \"Patek Philippe: Impossible Collection\" book.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The 'Selassie' And A Potential Caution "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sometimes, extraordinary watches have mixed histories. Others also come with a word of caution. In 2015, Christie's tried to sell one of the most phenomenal examples of a ref. 2497 but it was pulled from the sale due to a title dispute mere minutes before it was set to cross the rostrum. To complicate title matters, the watch formerly belonged to the late Emperor of Ethiopia, Haile Selassie – certainly no easy estate to unravel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13b76698-a875-43cf-9bd6-60c31d767bd6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch, movement number 888'058, features a yellow gold Wenger case and a unique black first-series dial with luminous hands. It eventually sold in 2017 after a bidding war between two powerhouse dealers, Alfredo Paramico and Davide Parmegiani, with the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/emporer-haile-selassie-patek-philippe-ref-2497-christies-record/" target=\"_blank\">latter taking it home for $2,898,000</a>. Pateks with black dials and yellow cases are some of the most collectible from the brand, so the price makes sense (and could be higher today). But there's a warning to share about these black dials.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["217c28e0-ccf7-4e80-80e8-1b2131eb71ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is another yellow gold black-dialed ref. 2497 out there, a second-series dial with luminous hands that appeared once at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2497-lot-222-335?page=17\%22 target=\"_blank\">Antiquorum in 2009</a>. This should be one of the most coveted watches among the ref. 2497. The weird thing is that despite being offered with an \"Extract from the Archives\" (though there is no word what that extract said), the watch went unsold. I asked some of the few folks who would have handled that watch and didn't get a clear answer as to why. One trusted collector said, \"I didn't like it.\" Another told me that, by their recollection, the dial looked redone. I don't want to completely dismiss it since I haven't seen it in person, and it could still be a very correct and valuable watch, but I'd be curious to see what the market would say if it came up again.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Fullerton"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's a strong argument to be made that \"The Fullerton\" is the most important ref. 2497 in the world by some margin. This is the first Caliber 27SC Q movement made by Patek, movement number 888'000, and it was placed in the unique case no. 663'034, made in 1951 by the master Emile Vichet. This watch was the prototype for the new model presented at the Basel Fair in 1953. Eventually, it was sold to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-collection-of-pete-fullerton-how-does-the-heir-to/" target=\"_blank\">Pete Fullerton, grandson of one of the most important collectors in history</a> – Henry Graves Jr. – and himself an important collector, a testament to his relationship with Patek.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["831c232c-d39b-47e9-a91e-d8f33a93877e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That's a lot of superlatives, so I'll break it down into simple terms. The watch has an unusual case design, a three-piece case with long, curving, and almost polished-looking lugs. The dial's applied numerals have a distinct, bold, practically futuristic cubist font. That combination isn't anywhere else on a ref. 2497 – if you saw this in person, there would be no doubt it's \"the Fullerton.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d9f522f1-b23b-4e49-bc60-86782655afbb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c8e61de5-0b78-435e-a187-7cf03855d6f8","0c91b7ec-5c88-41c6-8743-05f7249e79a6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c2c655fa-e30c-40df-83e5-e628102571c4","ae249f62-d776-4401-b35d-eca6fb39ebe4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch has sold twice since Fullerton owned it, once at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/so-fullerton-collection-n08909/lot.17.html/" target=\"_blank\">Sotheby's for CHF 688,000 in 2012</a> and then at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6347334/" target=\"_blank\">Christie's in 2021</a> for CHF 1,507,144. I'm honestly surprised it stayed that low. Maybe it's because it's not a perfect representation of the ref. 2497 in other regards; some collectors like to see watches that look like the emblematic design of the reference. But 1.5 million is a massive amount in most currencies.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Sydney Rose"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another one of my favorites, the \"Sydney Rose\" is pretty self-explanatory. This is a second series watch (first-series dial, Wenger case) in rose gold with luminous rose gold dauphine hands, the watch is striking. There are a few asterisks but all of them are above board.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["afbf6d7f-b4e0-4562-957e-97cf5d0d5122"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch was made in 1954 but went unsold, so Patek updated it in the 1960s by adding a gold \"Milanese\" bracelet and replacing the original \"feuille\" hands with the new luminous hands. This is an example of why it's believed that the second series dial was an update made to help sell unsold units. The watch eventually made its way to Australia in the 1960s where it eventually finally sold. When it resurfaced, it was given the nickname \"Sydney Rose.\" Phillips sold the watch in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/171/" target=\"_blank\">2017 for CHF 742,000.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The White Gold Trio"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["16c9b054-084e-494a-814c-c26d6e042a2c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's not just a weird name for a jazz combo; the \"White Gold Trio\" is how I'm treating the three white gold examples of the ref. 2497, movement numbers 888'015, 888'054, and 888'055. All of them are in the second series (Wenger cases, first series dials). In part one, I mentioned that this was the last reference where Patek kept white metals very, very rare. I was lucky to see one of them – 888'054, which belongs to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/theswisscaveau//" target=\"_blank\">my friend Dave</a> – in person, but that's not the only reason I'd put it in the top three. Take a look at the bracelet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cbb0b51b-4ea6-4f6d-8c24-0391f773e89f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8110134e-0e52-4055-8587-f2aa52aac90f","5d94fd58-1a4f-4667-8c8f-a112fc27effb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b99fab45-c3c6-4650-86f6-35985e84e435"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From the front, the watch looks to have complete, uninterrupted rows on the Gay Frères bracelet, with any joints between the rows covered by the \"Florentine\" finish. That's in contrast to the platinum example with an otherwise similar bracelet. The watch also will fit someone with over a 7.8\" wrist – the bracelet was jangly on my wrist when I tried it on. One of the interesting subtle features of the factory bracelet is the notch at seven o'clock that allows access to the corrector button for the moonphase without needing to remove the bracelet. This watch has sold multiple times at auction, most recently in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/122/" target=\"_blank\">2021 at Phillips for CHF 2,813,000</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1ff09d11-c25b-47d4-afb0-ee7c81d35875"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b8eb28b0-52d6-4c0f-8ecb-aaea180160a1","617a2e62-5348-43b3-8342-0ca2d2349786"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["14151fac-dab8-4b47-975c-76890e1a5295"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Next is another example – movement 888'015 – with a Gay Frères brick bracelet in white gold. This one has straight end links. Our friend John Reardon was the contact person for this watch when he was still at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5836339/" target=\"_blank\">Christie's in 2014</a> and it sold for CHF 2,045,000. I actually like this style of bracelet a lot; it looks a bit sportier this way.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lastly is 888'055, which last showed up at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2497-lot-63-428?page=22\%22 target=\"_blank\">Antiquorum in 2000</a>. That watch went unsold and I don't have much more info on what happened to the watch. I'm very curious, however, because a watch like this going unsold is very strange.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Curious Case Of The Curious Reference 2497/2498"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here's a unique watch I don't really understand and I doubt anyone alive really knows what really happened, but I'll try to break it down. When this watch – 888'027 – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5309425/" target=\"_blank\">came to auction at Christie's in 2010</a> and was referred to as a 2497/2498. That latter number, the 2498, designates a strange case design by Vichet that was largely legend otherwise only spoken about in literature or between private collectors. If you were paying attention, you'll notice some similarities to \"The Fullerton\" ref. 2497 with elongated and more \"polished\" looking lugs. But that's not all. I'll let Christie's break it down for you:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b0ab7c9-3b58-4ecd-ae7d-0cda04adf18c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"The entire case body is also completely different to the better known 2497 style as thinner in height and less convex. Furthermore, the bezel is slightly convex whereas the normal 2497 is concave. Also the case back has its unique design and does not compare with any known shape of other perpetual calendar models from the period.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case matches one other unique watch, a ref. 2498 with movement no. 966'360, case no. 663'403, with the calibre 12'''120 Q found in the ref. 1526 (with subsidiary seconds). That's why this example is known as the ref. 2497/2498. This is the kind of scholarship I think would go over really well to seasoned collectors today, but back in 2010, the watch net CHF 363,000. I think you could argue for twice that or more today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Ref. 2498 – A Lost Watch?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you do some deep digging, you'll find the aforementioned ref. 2498 in the annals of the <i>Patek Philippe</i> book by Huber and Banberry, but the watch shown in the book doesn't seem to match Christie's description of the 2498. Theoretically, this could be the most important ref. 2497 (even if it's a 2498) because, as described, it would be both unique and the purest transitional reference between the 1526 and the 2497. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Christie's says the watch should have the movement from the ref. 1526 – cal. 12‘“120Q – but there are no subsidiary seconds on the watch shown in the book. That watch has cubist numerals like the Fullerton but with German calendar wheels and center seconds. Does that mean that it might be <i>two</i> versions of the ref. 2498? Actually, according to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://collectability.com/about//" target=\"_blank\">John Reardon at Collectability</a>, there were three 2498 made. But that only furthered my curiosity about the version with the caliber 12’”120Q. Thanks to help from a friend, I finally got my the first lead I had on the ref. 2498 (as it’s supposed to be) just two days before publication of this story.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9f1a45e0-861b-45e2-9ec7-619235b4b5cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It turns out the ref. 2498 (movement no. 966'360) was offered as lot 450 by Sotheby's in their October 1998 New York sale. Thanks to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/charlestearle//" target=\"\">Charles Tearle</a>, Head of Watches at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.lyonandturnbull.com//" target=\"\">Lyon &amp; Turnbull</a> Auctioneers in London, and his extensive catalog library, I was finally able to get standalone pictures of the watch from that sale. Their listing, which I've shared below, mentions the same curious difference with the Huber book and the fact that the ref. 2498 doesn't appear in Patek's catalog of perpetual calendars. Then, there are the images of the watch itself. In pictures, the bezel seems to have a fuller shape, like a later 3448, with very thin lugs that meet the case nearly vertically. It's a weird watch, frankly, but a cool one from a historical standpoint, and it's a Vichet to boot.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ce3140a1-635a-4b07-b3e7-6a28114aea75"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1e665c83-321d-4a8e-a0e5-a9f8ae6446f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's interesting to me is that the watch went unsold, and at the time, Patek was very active in buying watches, posting record sales that no auction house would go without sharing. And yet, if you check Patek’s museum catalog, that’s where the watch ended up. Where the other two examples are, however, is still a mystery.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pink On Pink"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking of watches in Patek's museum, there's one other example that will never see public sale again but is worth mentioning. This is the only pink-on-pink (rose gold, salmon dial) ref. 2497 ever made and one that sits solidly in the Patek museum. It also features leaf hands with a \"Mark I\" dial, making it all the more unusual. We have <i>Revolution</i> to thank for the great pictures of the watch, movement 888'028, which might be one of the few times this watch will ever be seen anywhere but through glass. Interestingly, another salmon dial shows up in the <i>Patek Philippe</i> book by Huber and Banberry, but with non-matching windows. Is it the same watch? Did Patek swap the date windows? I don’t know but someone certainly does, so let me know if that’s you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5e500b08-8eff-4674-8b0c-be02bc0deae0","0eae6515-4e8d-495b-bf94-9cac221b30f6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Peter Knoll"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c43ba811-a25e-46be-b5e2-ccda44c3069f","c8f750f9-2145-4987-bc6e-5cc46a2cba64"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My colleague Tony did a great job covering the Peter Knoll watch when it last came up for auction. This watch, movement 888'041, would be your bog-standard (albeit fantastic) example of a rare first series 2497 in pink gold (with Vichet case). The story behind it and its former owner makes it an excellent watch for a collector who loves good provenance. It's also a piece that a friend has owned in the past, which means it has a special place in my heart. It sold for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6424468?&amp;lid=1&amp;sc_lang=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">a hefty CHF 1,497,000</a> when it appeared at Christie's last year. I'll let you read <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-patek-perpetual-calendar-is-already-an-important-watch-the-story-of-its-former-owner-makes-it-e/" target=\"_blank\">Tony's piece</a>, but this watch deserved a mention.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That's my breakdown of all the rare and unusual references but that's not to say a \"plain\" ref. 2497 in great condition isn't a great watch. I also didn't re-hash the rare versions of the sister reference, the ref. 2438/1, which I covered in the part 1. So now that you know what you're looking for, what will it cost you?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Buyers Guide"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Knowledge will make you free, but a ref. 2497 is going to cost you. Buying one will cost even more if you accidentally pay more than you should because you don't know what you're looking for – and there's a lot to look for.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're looking at buying a ref. 2497 (or 2438/1), the same standard rules apply to almost every other vintage watch, especially vintage Patek. Condition is king and buy the seller. Either way, it won't be cheap. But I’m here to make sure you get your money’s worth. I want to be clear: we will use some examples of some great and some less-than-stellar condition watches, but it's not meant to indict the sellers. No auction house would likely ever turn down an otherwise correct ref. 2497 because of condition – even the worst condition watches are worth a lot of money. But excellent condition can mean a lot higher prices. Let's start with cases.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case Work"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In Part 1, we talked about some of what makes the two series of cases from Vichet and Wenger different, but there are a few things you should look at when it comes to condition. The first and most obvious thing to look at is whether the case has been severely polished or even recut. Most cases (like most dials) have been touched at some point, but how much is the key. From the front, this should be obvious regarding how sharp and strong the lugs are and how defined the step on the lugs is. When you turn the watch over, the lugs shouldn't be flat but, rather, have a faceted outside edge that goes from the tip to the case. Despite the lack of great pictures, the recently-sold pink ref. 2497 is (according to a trusted collector) the best example of this feature (and case condition in general).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1298c34e-b51e-4415-a89e-25f8180f2b6b","b0267cfe-681f-48d1-8003-ef24f7c492e4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When you've got the watch upside down, you can look for other details. Inside the caseback is where you'll find basic information like the casemaker, serial numbers, and the fineness stamp for the case metal. But there's also the Swiss Helvetia bust hallmark on the back of the lugs and, in some instances on the side of the case or even side of the lugs (though these quickly disappear under polishing). Stamps weren't always done to the same depth, so it's not a guaranteed method, but if the hallmarks on the back of the lugs are gone or very shallow, you can tell that you've got a watch that's been significantly polished. These hallmarks are the last to go, but a good first place to start to see how bad it's gotten.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c6ee84d-e387-4a72-a3b4-ce9e5e371e22"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b80f9374-a8da-496e-ace7-a170f6c9cc8b","6df0675a-da81-46c2-91a7-6157abc6bf5c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1a602707-6280-4129-99e4-88a58a1456d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On Wenger cases, there's also a little secret if you know to look. The casemaker hid the last three digits of the case serial number on the inside in the top left lug. These shouldn't be polished, but sometimes straps can wear them down from friction, especially close to the lug hole.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5861c9dd-cc11-444c-87a4-ce4d68fcbc4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last but not least, recut cases. Again, this is not an indictment of any auction house or seller, but here's a great example of what a before and after on a recut case looks like. It's pretty obvious that with flat, striated edges on the flat section of the bottom of the lug, plus the brushed finishing on the side of the lug. Funny enough, in both instances Christie's sold the watch and it got recut between the sales.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ef582dc0-d2b6-4de7-b5af-cae9a1acafac","e054d3ab-81c2-42fe-b195-0f8e9f3cb48b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5884aa94-5fe6-4044-8376-07be01dd3653"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dials"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As Tony Traina recently mentioned in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sylvester-stallones-grandmaster-chime-sells-for-dollar54-million-evaluating-vintage-patek-philippe-c/" target=\"_blank\">a recent story</a><u>,</u> Patek dials usually have some degree of restoration. If they didn't, you'd end up with something like the watch below, which has a large level of discoloration and spotting. You can see the original dial color around the strange insignia that was added at 12 o'clock and tell that it's not supposed to look like this. While some folks might find this orange hue charming (I kind of do), it's not what people are generally looking for with their high-value Patek buys. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35d4ac9f-2d51-4349-ae4a-0836d2da7b89"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's worth doing a separate in-depth story on dial construction, but at the time, dials on a watch like the ref. 2497 were made so they could be washed or cleaned, much of which was done by Patek themselves at the time. Others were even redone completely (to varying degrees of success) and untouched dials in great condition are hard to come by. While I didn't go through each example I cataloged exhaustively, the same issues plaguing other Patek dials (the missing accent over the \"e\" in Genève being one) appeared frequently. So too did the striations you would find on any dial that has been sanded, as well as raised text where the enameled numerals or signature stood in relief from the dial which had layers carefully (or not so carefully) removed.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ebcc2182-e996-45d8-b358-23ab670cff90"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the more obvious things you can look for is the strength of the dial windows. The same goes when evaluating a 1526, 1518, 2499, 3448/3450, etc. While doing the normal check of the dial enameling and signature for originality, careful buyers should also look at these under a loupe or even microscope to see how sharp these windows are or if they've potentially been \"recut.\" Sometimes you don't need a loupe at all. Above is an example of a dial where the edges are at least sharp. Below is a watch with rounded windows from dial work which impacted the value (though the watch still sold for €321,000, it was a Vichet example that would have otherwise been worth much more). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can also see the holes for the indexes poking peaking out below the \"1\" on \"10\" and \"12\" which is a sign that the dial was worked on. During a restoration, the holes for indices are often opened up slightly, making them bigger and more apparent, which is more visible from the rear.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b9713f8-1b9f-412d-8da0-255f996c2aa9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7fba1edf-21e4-4372-b561-fdd8ece14487"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1f00fdfc-8cda-4b50-abfe-4c36320584cd","b99d022f-afa6-4a02-be7d-654f45c4ee6f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're a serious bidder on a ref. 2497, you can ask the auction house for photos of the dial alone for a better look at things like the sanding marks or windows. But you can also look at the back of the dial and edge of the case to make sure it's the correct dial for the movement. the movement number should be visible both on the dial edge and on the back of the dial, but sometimes those markings disappear. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["847a6dc5-4ade-40fd-afec-71ba22e903a5","03c2b6d3-2812-4450-a775-381febec1bbb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92ec65a9-3142-45d2-b831-64be75e86994"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is one other dial variation I didn't point out in Part 1 that is worth mentioning: flat dials. There are at least five known watches with \"flat\" first series dials (missing the incut area around the moonphase). It's something you see on some rare examples of the ref. 1518 and ref. 2499. For the ref. 2497, watches with this design included a number of unique watches and some more \"standard\" production, including the Fullerton (888'000), the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2497-lot-96-199/" target=\"_blank\">platinum piece with diamonds</a> (888'029), <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5638840/" target=\"_blank\">888'031</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5940982/" target=\"_blank\">Haile Selassie</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5517861/" target=\"_blank\">888'096</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d8dbd0d1-8db3-4038-8615-26f1adcae794"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Extra Sauce"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's one thing about movements I didn't mention in Part 1 and I've yet to see any information that it impacts the value of these watches but, hey, we're in a \"go for broke\" kind of phase with sharing knowledge. If you look at the two watches below, you'll notice something different about the shock absorber holding the jewel for the balance wheel. It's barely noticeable, but anecdotally (and thanks to the note from a friend for pointing this out) the earlier shock absorber on the balance had a Calatrava cross shape. Later shock absorbers were just round. These don't always appear sequentially by serial number, so it's possible they got replaced during servicing with a newer (or potentially better) part, but its just a fun detail to share.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["925bda3c-f16e-415e-868a-90021aba73c4","74760389-644f-4836-abf3-b1f63e059cb7"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Notice anything else different about the two movements above? The watch on the left, despite having the older shock absorber spring for the balance, actually has a newer balance. Original balances on the ref. 2497 are bimetallic, as shown on the right. At some point between 1957 and 1960, Patek started using one piece balances like show in the white gold model above. That is the transition era for the ref. 2499 balances, but since almost all 2497s (and 2438/1s) were finished before that date, most would have original bi-metallic balances. It's the mix in the later series (movement 178 has a bi-metallic but 172 doesn't, for instance) is likely because it was a transitional period, but a watch as early as 015 likely had the balance replaced at some point.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few other unusual examples of dials worth noting as well. Number 888'012 is a Vichet case but a second series dial – the watch sat unsold for 20 years, so Patek switched the dial out, and it has some other unusual features to the dial track. In 2011, Christie's sold number 888'068 with an extract-confirmed doré first series dial, which is quite stunning. Lastly, Sotheby's once sold a Hausmann &amp; Co.-signed third series watch (number 888'155) in the pre-Internet catalog days.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, only six standard production ref. 2497 examples have their certificate of origin: movement nos. 888'017 - '048 - '059 - '155 and '178. You can also look for other little things to differentiate examples, like stamps on movements or notations in cases (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://hox//" target=\"_blank\">two examples</a> of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5967708/" target=\"_blank\">HOX</a> stamped movements, a case stamped inside \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5993066/" target=\"_blank\">G&amp;Co.Ld\" for Garrard &amp; Co</a>, and a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/184/" target=\"_blank\">stock number 204644+Z3</a> for Beyer). And, as mentioned before, there is only one yellow and one pink ref. 2497 with German calendars.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["967f21a7-93d9-4885-bad6-ad2050860b9c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Prepping Your Wallet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What should you expect to pay? Well, it's complicated. Another shout-out to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/is-it-okay-that-a-vintage-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-just-sold-for-dollar1-million-at-some-ra/" target=\"_blank\">Tony's coverage of that pink ref. 2497</a> at a small regional auction house; it was proof that there are no \"deals\" to find anymore. But the market has been up and down the past few years, and timing is everything. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One rare example – the white gold watch I photographed for the story – has edged close to the record for the reference, reaching CHF 2.8 million, still 400,000 short of the platinum Breguet-numeral example. To me, that shows that current collectors would rather wait for rare variations than buy the stand model (no matter how few \"standard\" watches exist). It's also been over a decade since a platinum example has come to market, so it would likely reframe everything we know about the potential for the reference.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["99cb9c41-ee09-4481-8664-1477f78a4b03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As for the regular production pieces, I had originally tried to find some sort of guide by taking the sales average over the last five years, but there are so many nuances and variables that it became too messy. Vichet case results were dragged down by two examples with issues, but you should expect to pay about CHF 500,000 for a good true first series in yellow gold and at least double (or even close to triple) that amount for one in pink gold. Again, a dealer told me that the pink Vichet 2497 that sold recently in Spain was worth up to CHF 1.4 million to an end client, if he was pricing it out. The average second series (Wenger/Arabic) has averaged around CHF 400,000 over the last five years, but there's still a world where you might find one for around CHF 350,000 in this market. Finally, third series examples lag far behind – CHF 206,345 for the two that have come up for sale in that period.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What does that all mean? I expected the delta between Vichet and Wenger cases to be larger. I'd also argue that the third series is a great way into the reference – though my bias toward the dial is clearly showing. At that point, collectors with larger budgets may also gravitate toward the rarer yet visually similar ref. 2438/1, leaving a bit of leeway for other collectors to pick up an important watch in the third series ref. 2497.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Legacy"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The ref. 3448 overlapped the ref. 2497 by a year and continued to 1981, and continued the \"two window, one subdial\" perpetual calendar design that started with the ref. 1526. With the introduction of the ref. 3940 in 1985, the brand used subdials to indicate everything you'd need from a perpetual calendar (like Blancpain, AP, and others). That also means they lost some of what made the early QPs iconic. Patek didn't make another center-seconds perpetual calendar until the reference 5050, which came out in 1993, 30 years after the discontinuation of the ref. 2497, and that design was, well, <i>something</i>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8da9310e-04fc-41ed-b6af-39936b2aa61c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The ref. 2497 (or potentially ref. 2438/1) did have a little bit of a pop culture moment in the spotlight a few years ago,<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/charlie-sheens-vintage-patek-perpetual-calendar-the-only-wat/" target=\"_blank\"> courtesy of Charlie Sheen</a>. The man has had an \"interesting time\" when it comes to Patek's perpetual calendars. He lost/was robbed of a Patek 5970 at the Plaza Hotel in 2010 and then a year later showed up wearing Babe Ruth's championship ring and a watch that by now should be quite familiar to you. The kicker? Sheen stated that this watch was \"the only watch that keeps Warlock time.\" That lead to the (rarely used) nickname for the reference that someone pointed out in the comments of Part 1: Warlock Timers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["cd150864-82bd-4895-9de4-f2f1031a4cd4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back in non-Warlock land, you can see touches of the ideas from 2497 in things like Patek's modern annual calendar ref. 5396, which was updated this year, and more specifically in the ref. 5320G. While the dial was – according to Patek – specifically inspired by the ref. 1591 in steel with luminous hands and indices, the case features a stepped-lug design similar to Vichet and Wenger cases (though with a triple-step lug and straighter bezel). The ref. 1591 had a closed track around the seconds and date, whereas the 5320G has a more open track like the first series dials of the 2497.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e8bc41eb-f9fa-4a95-9974-6bf89bb7cd8d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a1dfbc8d-d067-4ec4-8f53-2f6a9fb88418"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the end, the reasons behind why the ref. 2497 was overshadowed are probably more evident than I thought. But it's a watch that I've (somewhat begrudgingly) started to love for what it represented at that moment in time for Patek. Call it Stockholm Syndrome after writing these articles, but the ref. 2497 is an important, albeit a strongly transitional, aesthetic reference for the brand, even if it spent it's time living in the shadow of the ultimate icon – the ref. 2499. Maybe Patek took too long to realize that times were changing and the watch needed a refresh to either stand out on its own or fit in with its big brother. They eventually decided on the latter, and the watch was discontinued shortly after. What that left us with was a watch that was so shortly lived that I think we've only scratched the surface on the collectibility of the reference.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>A special thanks to John Goldberger for his images and Ashok Viswanathan for his input on Part 2 of the series.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"406f081f-a83d-4e1e-99bd-e2331442188b","container_id":13609,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3763bfd8-f0cc-4959-9dd8-6bfb92b6b6a2/In-Depth-Patek-Part2-Article-Hero2x_Optimized.jpg","width":5760,"height":3360,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek 2497 white gold","created_at":"2024-07-23T18:33:49.248-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-26T14:54:51.978-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3763bfd8-f0cc-4959-9dd8-6bfb92b6b6a2/In-Depth-Patek-Part2-Article-Hero2x_Optimized.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-2","full_title":"In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 2: The Rarest Examples And A Buyers Guide","tags":["patek-philippe","in-depth","vintage","vintage-patek","patek-philippe-2497"]},{"id":13604,"slug":"hands-on-hamilton-khaki-2024","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Three New Dials Of Hamilton's Khaki Field Mechanical 38","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-26T13:00:15.743-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-22T11:32:00.612-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-26T13:01:22.403-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>New dial colors prove more options aren't a bad thing.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":51331,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Certain watches are just nearly perfect. These watches are perfect enough that when a friend inevitably asks for my recommendation for a \"first good watch,\" I can size my friends up based on their use case, budget, and personal vibe and land on one of a handful of great options. For my more rugged, outdoorsy, \"rough-on-their-stuff\" friends, that option is almost always the Hamilton Khaki Field watch in 38mm. Even more importantly, Hamilton has consistently rolled out more and more options of dial colors and case treatments over the last few years that make it easier for folks to find the right version for their style, and last month, they expanded the line even further.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ee61330a-45de-48e7-a918-4e87b2fcd38b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is going to be a relatively short review because the 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is a watch that we've covered <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hamilton-khaki-field-mechanical-new-colors-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">time</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/best-mechanical-watches-under-1000-seiko-hamilton-tissot/" target=\"_blank\">time again</a>, talked about when the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hamilton-khaki-field-mechanical-gets-a-bracelet-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">brand added a bracelet</a>, and even loved so much that we did a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://limited.hodinkee.com/hamilton-khaki-collection-2022//" target=\"_blank\">limited edition</a>. In many ways, it's a quintessential field watch and a great, first, budget option. But it's also something people can love no matter the price point they usually buy at and a potential core option for a collection. Here's what's remained the same.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5b2883d3-884a-482e-bc9b-daf85749d85a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As the name would suggest, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is – you guessed it – 38mm in diameter. There's a 42mm version of the Khaki Field Mechanical (and an automatic version with different dial styling and configuration) but even on my 7.25\" wrist and tall frame, I'm dead set on the opinion this is the platonic ideal of what a field watch should be. The original Khaki watches were 33mm, but modern tastes have changed, and 38mm feels like the perfect sweet spot.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8ba426c7-1f83-423f-ae7c-6ea65f6d8536"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4df8194a-b573-41ae-9fbd-8ea007629e85"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch measures 9.5mm thick and has 50m of water resistance. Some people will decry the water resistance as too little, but this is a field watch, not a dive watch, and still one that I would feel comfortable jumping in a lake with. I think of it more as a great all-around hikers or explorers watch that's rugged enough to take on most land-based activities and come out no worse for wear.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d129703b-a9ca-4efb-a349-d2030f6fd061"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With a bronze case, \"wear\" is part of the charm, and you can expect the watch to patina over time. The titanium caseback will keep the watch safe from any damage, but over time, the watch will start to pick up some darkness and (judging by a quick Google search) have some marbling to it. If you're the type to worry about keeping the case pristine, you probably shouldn't buy a bronze watch. With their brushed, rugged case, the stainless steel models have added drilled lug holes with the same 20mm lug width as found on the bronze. Even with new dials, they're still the classic, tried-and-true option. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d5b431ee-4d9c-4135-b701-f499047db5a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b40e4a1c-580c-44ea-b505-4678b6a0e3e6","81f9b113-5374-4bc6-8c1a-4db294729402"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["73ddc63a-939b-4222-8ba0-62fd5661a98d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6d71475b-bdc7-4bb1-a96c-ea218c0ad3ec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial design is suited for just that outdoorsy use case, with big, bold, classic Arabic numerals at every hour, hash marks for the minutes on an outer track, and 24-hour numerals toward the inside of the dial. These watches also feature luminous hour markers. You can trace this back to the American military specification MIL-W-46374, first published in 1964, which set the tone for field watches of this style moving forward. We covered a collection of very similar versions of this dial from vintage history if you're curious how <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/confusing-fall-warblers-collection-hamilton-field-watches-found/" target=\"_blank\">Hamilton adapted for different clients or end-users</a>, including when they shipped these watches out through L.L. Bean catalogs. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["118e305b-bd4d-418e-8c7a-2f7ae2d1c4c7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There were already a large number of dial and strap combinations in the Hamilton catalog, and these three new releases have brought that total to 12. This drop of dials includes an all-new blue dial with vintage beige-toned luminous indices and hands, paired with a matching blue NATO strap. I took this as a cool callback to the rare \"Blue Anchor\" vintage Hamilton Khakis, though the new dials are much more vibrant and a lighter shade of blue than the \"Blue Anchors\" have faded to (which is basically black). You can see an example below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dc6c0471-6640-4aae-b46a-02635a5942eb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bae657fc-c466-458b-98dd-872f0ff3eee6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the case is the brand's hand-wound H-50 movement with 80 hours of power reserve. To me, that extra power reserve in a small case is a great bonus and bit of value for an affordable watch. Sure, it's a budget option with no guaranteed accuracy given, but its one of the more solid ones on the market. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["52ebf9ef-43d4-46cc-aa5d-048615c75b94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other two dials that were released in June are a bronze-cased option with a white dial with black text and vintage beige-toned lume (a $300 premium over the $595 stainless steel case) and a new white dial in the stainless steel case with green-hued lume. In all cases, the Super-LumiNova glows green. I haven't heard from anyone that the color of the lume used makes a big difference in their buying decision, but as my title said, more options aren't a bad thing. Or are they?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ce10f84a-517a-49fb-b9f0-41717de28ccf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f2773617-2745-4a38-b738-e66bf185ef39"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9e83411b-b138-4ea3-8afb-afe35166756f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are really only two things I could say to potentially knock the Khaki Field Mechanical. One is the fact that the caseback is already engraved, so you can't add your own text (I'd add some sort of faux military issuance number with dates and letters that mean something personal to me alone). The other issue is that sometimes my friends get decision paralysis when presented with the number of Khaki Field Mechanical options. For folks like them (and I count myself in their group), more options might not be better. In that case, I'd recommend one of two options: grab the first one that catches your eye and don't even consider other options, or buy the classic black dial and stainless steel case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d6522fbb-f6ff-4734-b233-a4a0402182ac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Frankly, you can't go wrong, no matter which watch you pick. On rare occasions, friends have told me that they had hoped for \"X\" color dial in \"Y\" case design – combinations that might not exist. Now Hamilton is closer to having every variable covered for every potential customer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical; 38mm diameter by 9.5mm thick bronze or stainless steel case, with 50m water resistance. White or blue dials, black or white hour, minute and second hands with beige or green Super-LumiNova; Hours, minutes, and central seconds. H-50 manually-wound movement with 80 hours of power reserve. Matte brown calf leather NATO strap, blue textile NATO strap, or black textile NATO strap. Price: $595 (stainless steel), $895 (bronze).</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Review","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e6039faa-a9b9-4c70-9e6a-1467c465f5e4","container_id":13604,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6481ad13-5896-4091-aee5-00d49518d46c/20240724_HamiltonKhaki_005.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38","created_at":"2024-07-22T11:32:00.662-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-24T11:55:53.268-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6481ad13-5896-4091-aee5-00d49518d46c/20240724_HamiltonKhaki_005.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-hamilton-khaki-2024","full_title":"Hands-On: Three New Dials Of Hamilton's Khaki Field Mechanical 38","tags":["hamilton","hands-on","hamilton-khaki-field"]},{"id":13472,"slug":"in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 1: Patek's First Serially Produced Center Seconds Perpetual Calendar","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-25T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-10T16:58:25.424-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-26T10:13:58.032-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>In part one, we cover everything there is to know about the ref. 2497, its dials, cases, and general design history.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":23637,"public_token":"9755752af45d8610ca570a188d053179","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some collectors like to cover a broad spectrum, and some are completists. When it comes to vintage Patek Philippe, being in the former camp is far easier than the latter. As an illustration of that point, I want to talk about one of Patek's most iconic and yet – I'd argue – overlooked references: the ref. 2497.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The ref. 2497 was Patek's first serially produced central-seconds perpetual calendar. Frankly, it's an oddball design and – dare I say it – not my favorite Patek perpetual calendar. It's funny now, in hindsight, that I spent so much time on this article, which all started because of one simple question for which there was no easy answer available online. But even I'll admit there's something to like about the reference. Any major Patek \"first\" is worth at least a closer look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sitting somewhere between dressy (with a simplified dial) and sporty (with a center seconds and enamel minute track), the case is a \"virtual carbon copy\" (as one auction house has said) of the 2499 – minus the chronograph pushers. However, the center seconds perpetual calendar was also a design that Patek abandoned for 30 years after discontinuing the 2497. In some ways, that adds to the appeal. But even more important are the number of attractive and unique variants – which anecdotally seem to be far more than any other complicated Patek in the era – which not only have achieved notable results on the market but would also make a great cornerstone to any collection.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Between the ref. 2497 and the similar, waterproof ref. 2438/1, only 179 examples were made during a 12-year run from 1951 to 1963 in two standard dial variations and two casemakers (though no Patek extract I've seen lists the watches being made after 1959, save one). Of those, 114 were the ref. 2497 and 65 were the ref. 2438/1. That total number is easily found because, unlike any other highly complicated model at the time, production was reserved for a specifically dedicated movement number range, starting at 888'000. The 2497 also coincided with the early run of the longer-lived iconic ref. 2499 – another point in its favor. But, by 1964, both the ref. 2497 and 2438/1 were removed from Patek's catalogs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ca1ec75c-0192-49bc-869f-2269abb41870"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what makes the ref. 2497 a perfect example of how hard it is to be a \"completist\" on vintage Patek? Of the 114 made, most were in yellow gold. Rarer examples exist in pink gold (approximately 20), plus three in white gold, and two in platinum, all around 37mm (give and take a few tenths) and around 12-13mm thick. The ref. 2497 was the last of Patek's \"premier\" watches, where white metals were used sparingly. With the introduction of the ref. 3448, white metals became a more regular part of production.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By 2024, 56 examples have come to the market. Contemporary prices range from around $150,000 (an outlier) to over $3 million, and currently hover around $350,000 on average. The two white metals command millions and are especially closely held by collectors. There are at least seven more unusual, unique, or important examples you'd likely have to shell out tens of millions of dollars for if you wanted to \"catch them all.\" But it's still possible to create an impressive collection.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This entire in-depth story was prompted by my lucky chance to see three of the four case metals together earlier this year in Monaco. Unless you own these three watches (one person does, in fact; my friend Dave, who goes by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/theswisscaveau//" target=\"_blank\">@theswisscaveau on Instagram</a>), it's unlikely you'd ever see three metals of ref. 2497 in one place outside a museum.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["64f54633-a352-4cc0-8779-22ce6c46335d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the standardized production of the ref. 2497, we can break the watch down two different ways: either by dial design or case manufacturer. Each has a \"first\" and \"second\" series. In auction catalogs and dealer listings, people nearly always break down the watch into two series based on dial design. It makes some sense: this is how the ref. 2499 is treated. It's also the most obvious difference. But this isn't the 2499, and this treatment neglects the rarity of the subtle differences in the cases. Adding to some confusion, auction houses sometimes say <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-6/ref-2497-pink-gold-perpetual-calendar-wristwatch/" target=\"_blank\">the case manufacturer delineates the series</a>. All of this, plus the three watches I saw, prompted me to search for better answers to a few questions. When did the dial series change? How many of each series were made? These questions, and a few more, seemed to have no answer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After going through my research (and obsessively cataloging every publically sold piece), I'd argue there are <i>three </i>(or even four) series of 2497. At first, I thought this was a return to an old way of looking at the reference. In Antiquorum catalogs from the 1980s and '90s, you can see they say (until 2009, even) that there were three series, but they mistook a single unique transitional example as a \"second series.\" I'm arguing for an entirely different approach and rewriting the scholarship. Maybe it will stick. Maybe I'll be the guy walking around talking about my imaginary friend, the \"third series\" reference 2497, for the rest of my life.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I neared the end of compiling everything I learned, the story ended up being over 5,000 words. Because of that, this is the first of two parts. Part one will cover the practical details of categorizing and understanding the regular production of the reference, including differences in dials, cases, and the ref. 2438/1. Part two will cover rare and unique examples, track the pricing, and look at the legacy of the reference. I'll warn you now: this is very, very dense. But hopefully, if you're doing research in the future, this will help you find what you're looking for.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Two (Main) Dials Of The Ref. 2497"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Scholarship on the ref. 2497 was largely right on one thing: there are two main series of regular production dials. These dials are predominantly silver opaline in color, with hands and indices matching the case material made by Stern Frères. Yes, there are outliers, including a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5431107/" target=\"_blank\">champagne-colored dial</a> and some outstanding examples we'll cover in part two, but generally, a \"standard\" 2497 will have a white or off-white dial. In addition, only six retailer-signed ref. 2497 are known to have been made (the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6235786/" target=\"_blank\">Gumbiner</a> is the only one to come to auction).</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When you look at the early series of ref. 2497, it's clear the watch draws a lot from the ref. 1526, Patek's first serially produced perpetual calendar made from 1941 to 1952. The ref. 1526 (almost always) featured small Arabic numerals on the even numbers and small dots on the odds, which meant the dial had a lot of blank space. Powered by the manually-wound Caliber 12'''120Q, the ref. 1526 has the date around the moon phase at six o'clock and sub-seconds in the same location. The singular subdial has a subdivided seconds track, a dividing circle, a track with the date, and another surround. The respective subdial hands reach their appropriate track. Finally, the reference used the very delicate \"feuille,\" or leaf hands. It's creative and compact, but that layout looks bottom-heavy.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f8c44ff7-e377-4fe4-90f1-13a7a9bbab92"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The empty space on the dial – with the Arabic/dot indices – continues to the first series of dials for the 2497. The day of the week and month remain in cutout windows at 12 o'clock. But by moving to center seconds with the Caliber 27SC Q manual movement, the ref. 2497 changed a few things on the dial layout.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["88d3e8ec-3ba9-47d3-b7f4-1d8cb89ae120"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9e4a49ca-4090-493d-8e90-d995fe1a4ec5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First, with the center seconds, the subdial is simplified to display only the date. Like the 2499, the dials have an incut edge around the subdial and no track surrounding the date. Since the second hand points to the edge of the dial, the track has also been moved there, with a 1/5th-second subdivision enameled alongside the enameled number for every five-minute interval (minus 30 minutes, which would conflict with the date). That first series 2497 dial also uses feuille hands. The first series of dials appear in movements with serial numbers 888'001 to 888'098, coinciding with the date range of 1951 to 1954.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9835949-351c-4baa-b2bd-2656ab76488b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c8de6746-f5e8-4fec-a3fc-86215ffd86d8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One other interesting characteristic, shown on the ref. 2497R above, is the occasional plexiglass \"cyclops\" magnifier that's (rarely) seen on the ref. 1518 that preceded it. When the 2497G (white gold) sold at Phillips in 2017 (CHF 2.2 million), it also had a magnifier. But the cyclops was gone when it was last sold publicly at Phillips in 2021 (for over CHF 2.8 million). Interestingly enough, the yellow gold and rose gold examples shown together in this story are also the only German calendar ref. 2497s ever produced.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Second Series Dials"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second series dial for the 2497 is actually far rarer than the first (though not necessarily more desirable). This newer, refreshed dial features baton hour markers and dauphine hands – a much bolder and balanced look. But looking closer, there are technically two different sub-types of the second series dial. On the \"Mark I\" dials, the baton markers are essentially elongated triangles truncated at the ends. The \"Mark II\" dials are elongated pyramids with sloping points at the top and bottom.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bb243c5c-c608-4b55-9c99-fe00b54decd3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One wrinkle in the scholarship is that second series dials appear in watches Patek lists in extracts as being completed as early as 1955, but research shows that (with two exceptions) all were sold in 1959 or later. Only nine correct second series dials have ever come to auction (five Mark I and four Mark II). It seems like the Mark II dials were possibly left over from the production of the ref. 2438/1 – all of that reference (except one example) featured this dial design. Two of these dials were likely changed out later at client requests because the watches are listed as completed much earlier in 1953/1954. Of course, there are a few other outliers in the ref. 2497 dials, but I'll cover that in part two of this story.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0c4c598d-444a-4a9b-a9f8-c20df9fa5135","472856da-d7ac-4e21-989e-bb61ee678e59"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In context, these delayed sales dates make some sense. The refreshed dial of the ref. 2497 was adopted – apparently – due to the then more \"modern\" tastes of the late 1950s and '60s. It's possible (and in some ways <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/171/" target=\"_blank\">proven by research</a>) that examples of the ref. 2497, made as early as 1954, weren't selling as quickly as tastes changed. Patek looked at their leftover stock and changed the dial design to move their remaining units. This was also the apparent impetus for a late batch of ref. 2438/1, the waterproof sibling to the 2497. Several watches were re-cased by Patek into two-piece waterproof cases with second-series dials. All were ordered around 1960 by Patek from Wenger and Stern Frères.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not to let my bias get in the way, but I think Patek made a good call with the new design. I'm not a fan of the 1526 or 2497 first-series dials – they don't seem as cohesive or balanced compared to what I consider the golden era of the brand (like the 2499 and 3448). The second series taps into that later aesthetic. However, they just don't sell as well on the secondary market.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The success of the second series dial of the 2497 was short-lived. The reference was discontinued a few years later, in 1964. But, in the same way the 1526 dials connected to the 2497, the second series dials overlapped what came next. By 1962, the 3448 was already the anointed successor, with its first-ever automatic perpetual calendar movement. The 3448 and later 3450 (the \"red dot,\" with leap-year indicator) took the dial's more modern design language and added sharper, pointed lugs and bolder cases with large bezels for a cohesive design. Speaking of cases…</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Tale Of Two Cases"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like the iconic perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 2499, the ref. 2497 featured the same two casemakers who made cases with similar aesthetics but subtle differences in their execution. The names are iconic: Vichet and Wenger.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f771f2d8-ea60-4b63-a177-e36ee6422885"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both cases feature a three-piece construction with snapbacks nearly identical to the 2499 (minus chronograph pushers). And, like with the 2499, one is a bit more iconic than the other. Interestingly, in the mid-2010s, most auction houses didn't even acknowledge the different casemakers. Luckily, I could extrapolate information from case serial number ranges to address any gaps in records.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'd make the argument that the <i>true </i>first series of the ref. 2497 has two characteristics: an Arabic numeral dial and a case by Emilie Vichet. Vichet was the legendary casemaker for the ref. 1518 and the early portion of the first series of ref. 2499. Similarly to the ref. 2499, Vichet didn't make enough cases for the ref. 2497 to span the entirety of the production of the first series of dials. While the number of 2497 cases by Emile Vichet isn't confirmed, I've cataloged every example sold at auctions in the last 30 years (55 different pieces). The production largely range spans from the start of the reference in 1951 to approximately the end of 1953, spanning movement serial numbers 888'000 to 888,025, with 028, 041, and 042 in pink gold Vichet cases and 027 as a unique style of Vichet case. The generally accepted total of Vichet cases is 40-50 watches. However, Wenger cases started to show up as early as 037, which means the cases weren't done sequentially. It's possible the total is less than 40 Vichet cases.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b19e5da2-bcbe-4f87-9353-3270f6075469"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's easy to tell Vichet and Wenger cases apart if you can open the watch and see the inside of the caseback, looking for the \"Key 9\" signature for Vichet or \"Key 1\" for Wenger. But it's not often you get to \"crack open\" a $300,000+ watch. So, like with the ref. 2499, you can start by looking at the lugs <i>very</i> closely.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["16520220-34db-4968-bfc3-c84c89c612c1","69319d21-41db-49de-8b98-bcd5ed2e852b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you can tell the difference in the case at a glance, you've probably been looking at Vichet and Wenger cases more than most or know your ref. 2499 cases. Like with the 2499, early 2497 Vichet cases feature longer \"claw-like\" that look ever-so-slightly longer, more pointed, and more triangular. These lugs have a steep drop-off that hugs the wrist and wear more modern than their approximately 37mm by 12-13mm case size might suggest. I say approximately because, like the ref. 2499, Vichet cases measure slightly smaller than the later 37mm Wenger cases – something around 36.5mm, whereas you'll sometimes see Wenger cases measured as large as 37.5mm. The stepped lug is also more apparent in strong examples of the Vichet case, with the \"lower\" step flaring out a bit more where it meets the mid-case, but this can be harder to tell in photographs or on polished examples.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In both cases (no pun intended), the bezel of the ref. 2497 has a gently sloping convex shape that ends at the mid-case, which sticks out like a ring that the crown nestles inside. Part of the argument of the aesthetic strength of Vichet cases is that the elongated lugs perfectly match the curvature of the bezel. That might be true, but it's subtle. The best visual trick of the bezel of the 2497 is that from the front, it actually can look concave and full.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["824ab82e-4c9a-4089-9b98-45a792acea2f","0f669c6a-72fb-4331-9838-aa50f1dcd47d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Turning the watch over, you can see what is also supposed to be the last tell-tale sign. Often, Vichet cases are described as having a flat caseback, while Wenger cases are \"domed.\" When you see a truly flat Vichet caseback, it makes sense. You can see an example on the famed Peter Knoll watch with a Vichet case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8185ab9d-8fd6-44a4-8bea-285874469677"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some Wenger cases do seem a bit more flat, though not as much as Vichet. While the images below aren't perfect, you can see that the level of the \"domed\" shape varies. Then you can also compare to the much flatter Vichet case below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["df2b2728-f35e-4047-9c4f-9b0e780d3021","c5f53893-6179-4a57-933c-c02fa0d5ff36"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42068b47-6e85-43bd-a855-6ecbe6e2fd07","7b64e435-66d9-427c-9da1-08ee06b614ae"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the ref. 2499 is broken down into four series because of dial variations, the ref. 2497 isn't so simple. First-series dials can be found across both Vichet and Wenger cases. Since the Vichet case/Arabic dial combination was truly the first, that implies that the second \"transitional\" series of 2497 should be the combination of a Wenger case/Arabic dial, as seen below. This combination makes up the bulk of production, from movement serial number 888'026 to 888'179 and from 1953 to 1959.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["db20c565-4786-41df-b234-6fae6eae9db5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Second Series Cases"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Wenger cases basically look just a little different than Vichet. I covered the key differences above, but the shorter lugs and more sloping/less dramatic drop of the lug from top to bottom is a key giveaway. It's almost as if the Supreme Court defined Vichet vs. Wenger: \"You know it when you see it.\" When you see enough of the cases, eventually, it just starts to make sense at a glance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["27d0a4ca-8a4f-4aef-ba9f-1dea56d5d95d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Doing some simple math, assuming that 25 Vichet cases were made out of a total number of 114 ref. 2497 made total, that leaves 89 Wenger-cased examples ever made. That's just under 80% of the total production of the reference. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I alluded to earlier, Wenger cases, largely in yellow gold, seem to have started with movement serial 888'036. By the 1960s, Vichet was out of business despite being the preferred case manufacturer of Patek, leaving Wenger to make the rest of the cases, including on the ref. 2438/1. The style of the Vichet case also influenced the Chronomètre Contemporain II from Rexhep Rexhepi.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["326c83ad-ca2a-46ee-9abe-d616eba240a7","18be0f7e-f3ef-44ed-ab91-5b22d2c69a01"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, you have what I'm calling the \"third\" series of ref. 2497: the Wenger case and second-series dial. By this point, this should be relatively self-explanatory. But as a recap: shorter lugs, a more domed caseback, convex bezel, dauphine hands, and four-facet baton hour markers. But that's not all for the ref. 2497.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Other Sibling – The 2438/1"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mentioned before that the 179 total examples of the Caliber 27SC Q movement weren't solely dedicated to the ref. 2497. In fact, the rare (and I'd argue, maybe more interesting) sibling to the first center-seconds perpetual calendar watch by Patek was one that is nearly identical from all angles except one: the waterproof ref. 2438/1.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["34fd8dd8-6b31-41d5-b35a-b22dda39b4b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Thanks to order sheets from Wenger, we know that 65 confirmed examples of the ref. 2438/1 were made. Fifty of these were made in yellow gold, the rest in pink, all with two-piece cases with screw backs made by Wenger. Almost every example has baton markers (second series, mark II dials), and while some have luminous hands, for the most part, they are all similar to the \"third series\" ref. 2497. They're also basically impossible to tell from the ref. 2497 until you flip it over and see the screw-down back. I've heard theories that cases were ordered to make the reference after the slowdown in demand for the ref. 2497, and movements and later dials were repurposed into this reference. The watches were made in three batches of serial numbers, from 1954/1955 for the first series and 1959 for the third. The first batch seems to run serial XXX'099 to 110, the second from 135 to possibly 150, and the third from that number to 177, though that still leaves some unknown gaps to complete the total of 65.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0accf787-e15e-4b55-9c0c-121d9f191f73"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0461d7cf-06f8-45ee-8dda-0be127ce6836"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ae63e73b-e785-436b-a4a2-2fc895fcada5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the waterproof case, the ref. 2438/1 feels like the final evolution of the center seconds QP design for Patek: sporty and elegant. Only 28 have come to market at auction, at about one or two examples a year, and they seem to hold steady in the $300,000 to $400,000 range. There are three ultimate examples, in my opinion. I was lucky to see the first earlier this year in Monaco: a Tiffany-signed ref. 2438/1 in yellow, with HOX stamp on the movement (designating the watch for the American market). There is also a yellow-gold ref. 2438/1 with black dial and luminous <i>dauphine</i> hands signed \"Hölscher.\" Both are currently in the hands of important Italian collectors. Finally, a personal favorite is pink gold ref. 2438/1 with luminous hands and markers that look <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5431215/" target=\"_blank\">incredible</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What Comes Next"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For those that stuck with me this far, I appreciate it. And I hope it has proven insightful. At the very least you should be able to tell the ref. 2497 (and ref. 2348/1) series apart. The best is yet to come, however. Maybe something I didn’t emphasize early on is that the ref. 2497 was the platform for what could be considered the largest variety of creative and attractive unique variations ever done in Patek’s heyday. You would be hard-pressed to find a ref. 2499 that matches the thoughtful design of some of the watches you will see in part two.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c4fed32-2162-4001-82ac-b52b57c0df1f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the lucky few that are in a position to take all this information and put it into practice to buy a watch, I’ll also take a look at the current state of the market and what to expect for prices. Finally, I’ll have my take on the legacy of the ref. 2497 and its impact on the modern Patek catalog.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"In-Depth on the Patek Philippe ref. 2497 Perpetual Calendar","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6133a2ee-4d25-4e95-9f5c-44bd5c6099a2","container_id":13472,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/afbe7891-2a30-4487-a05e-92b5b9858a6b/20240419_MonacoLegendGroup_303.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek 2497 first series in yellow, white, and pink gold","created_at":"2024-06-10T16:58:25.464-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-12T11:41:02.295-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/afbe7891-2a30-4487-a05e-92b5b9858a6b/20240419_MonacoLegendGroup_303.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1","full_title":"In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 1: Patek's First Serially Produced Center Seconds Perpetual Calendar","tags":["patek-philippe","in-depth","vintage","perpetual-calendar","vintage-patek","patek-philippe-2497"]},{"id":13586,"slug":"hands-on-kari-voutilainens-20th-anniversary-tourbillon","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Kari Voutilainen's 20th Anniversary Tourbillon","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-24T13:00:02.246-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-12T16:00:20.280-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-24T13:01:07.288-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Spending time with a platinum masterpiece to celebrate the platinum anniversary of one of the most influential independent watchmakers alive.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":17919,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Thirty years ago, Kari Voutilainen finished the first step on a path that would ultimately change the direction of his career. Like all good stories (in my universe, at least), it began with a pocket watch. While employed at Michel Parmigiani's restoration workshop (where he worked from 1990 to 1999), Voutilainen worked after hours on his first-ever watch. The project took three years to complete, but by 1994, Voutilainen had created a one-minute tourbillon pocket watch in the style of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Ten years later, Voutilainen launched the first watches under his own brand name. And now, Voutilainen has brought it all full circle with his 20th Anniversary watch – a one-minute tourbillon in wristwatch form.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bddf58aa-7ef0-4b9d-a485-3e5bb7ca7f89"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some coverage of this watch is undoubtedly overdue. The 20th Anniversary Tourbillon series was announced in April and, unfortunately, common to announcements from several independents, got smothered by the crush of Watches &amp; Wonders commercial releases. This is decidedly something much, much different. The series totals 61 pieces – 20 pieces in platinum, 20 in white gold, 20 in rose gold, and one in stainless steel – with prices between CHF 275,000 (in rose) and CHF 278,000 in white gold or platinum. The dial design draws from Voutilainen's original tourbillon pocket watch, with a charming off-centered display.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5445e32b-db11-4fc2-8b61-14a9ca643c00"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["17210bca-1a9a-4327-9281-dea411924616"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the last 20 years, Voutilainen has made a name for himself not only for his phenomenal dial work, but also for his mastery of complications and the particular style in which he executes them. Perpetual calendars, minute repeaters chimed off a turning bezel, chronographs – he's done nearly everything. His \"28TI\" is one of my favorites, putting his movement philosophy on prominent display by inverting the movement and placing it on the dial side. But I think you could easily argue that the tourbillon is the perfect representation of the man and his career and that the 20th Anniversary models are his best distillation of himself in a watch yet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ecd07edd-3f04-4a07-850e-c3afb06d4aea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I went hands-on with two examples, one in platinum with a blue hand <i>guilloché</i> dial and silvered accents from the solid silver base, the other in stainless steel with a creamy white dial and red accents (a <i>pièce unique</i>). There were things on each dial I liked individually – the color of the blue dial, the <i>guilloché</i> pattern on the white dial – and luckily, buyers will be able to customize these things as you are able to on most of Voutilainen's watches. </p>\n\n<p>That's a double-edged sword in some respects. Kari has a particularly good eye when it comes to the pieces and dials he designs and creates personally, but frankly, his customers sometimes fall short. I respect that Kari believes someone paying about $300,000 for a watch should be able to make some aesthetic decisions, but I think there should be guard rails. But I digress.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["99d5cdad-0dd6-4cb2-ab4a-722f63d4d449"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I know people love Voutilainen's dials, but for me, it's all about the movement, and this is no exception. The watch features a brand new hand-wound Tourbillon 22 movement inspired by the architecture of the caliber found in his first pocket watch. The watch features dual barrels and 72 hours of power reserve, plus the one-minute tourbillon beating at 18,000 vibrations/hour. And yet the architecture isn't identical, with the winding crown moved to the normal 3 o'clock position you expect from a wristwatch (among other changes).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8e33dc4b-3a48-447f-afe5-054ae8e84410"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["260f2c3e-2b29-44bd-a8df-8be9045957c2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The finishing is immaculate, as it always is, and the tourbillon features extra touches like a hairspring with Phillips terminal curve and Grossman internal curve. There's also hand engraving of Voutilainen's name on the movement. You can notice the depth of the <i>anglage</i> and the contrast against the grained and gilded finishing of the plates. The watch itself measures 13mm thick, due in part to the fact that Voutilainen prefers to do his bridge construction the old-fashioned way and secures parts with screws only (no gluing). That means each part needs to be thick enough to take a screw that can turn enough times and won't strip out of the plate.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6a83bd5a-13b3-4c0e-95c9-3139efa513a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then there are things that set this watch apart from any recent release from Voutilainen and add to how special it is. Instead of using the teardrop lugs that are common on his watches, the 20th Anniversary Tourbillon features straight lugs and a knurled pattern on the side, mirroring that original pocket watch. The lugs are still relatively short and rounded at the tip, rather than copying things like elongated Vichet lugs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f8cd13d-cca9-4fb5-8613-ebabd770502f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["32625c3d-538e-425a-b01d-4a81c059c475"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Unlike the original pocket watch, the small seconds display is offset at about five o'clock on the dial instead of six o'clock. It's less symmetrical, but it still balances out the fact that the time indication is a bit higher. The power reserve indication is also moved to about 8:30 on the dial. It's a subtle difference, and it worked just as well as the original.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b8e6bab-4f11-44d4-8722-918af1fe45bc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I could imagine that a buyer might be concerned about the size (again, 40mm by 13mm) but on the wrist, its just a charming and wearable piece of independent watchmaking. Certainly the stainless steel <i>pièce unique</i> wears slightly better – being lighter and all – but I don't think anyone would be upset by the upgraded heft. The movement itself is already substantial and contributes to the weight.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5fd8d8b5-f21a-4ecd-9cf1-283477d65749"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just a quick note to revisit the dials. I never cease to be impressed with what Voutilainen and his team do with their hand <i>guillochéd</i> dials. Thanks to his own company, Comblémine, you can see more and more craftsmanship like this on the market than you would ever have had 20 years ago, but there's something indescribable that sets his own watches apart.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1f92b585-7f1c-4cec-b521-88db683debe2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One amazing detail I loved was this numerals on the steel piece. The depth and three dimensionality of the inky blackness was just phenomenal. Its the kind of thing that will stick in my head as a detail I'd want if I'm ever lucky enough to commission my own watch some day, as unlikely as that is.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7cbc7933-dae0-4832-bb0d-ed8bc57b989d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8ab5809f-a8ec-4a13-85fb-d3fbea03a0bd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7b98ca02-1102-44b1-bf86-9e6168f8b4b3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's only so much that can be said about a watch like this, especially at this price. These watches will likely go to homes and watch boxes full of Voutilainen's already, so I feel there is no need to justify the price or any individual decision made with the 20th Anniversary Tourbillon. It's certainly, in a word, beautiful. </p>\n\n<p>It's also a fitting tribute to his career thus far. But there's also something indescribable about Voutilainen's work, not just the dials, that makes it all come together so well. While other people have tried to emulate him or build their own aesthetics around the very same individual parts that make his watches so good (things like the hand-guilloché dials, for instance), there's an ineffable quality about his ability to get the whole picture just right.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["73fe16ff-48bf-4b08-8ef0-b63db9a852f0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Kari Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary, 40mm diameter by 13mm thick white gold case (with platinum and rose gold options available). Dial made of a solid silver base with hand-guilloché pattern. Guilloché patterns and colors are tailored to individual requests. Partially-blued open-tipped hands made of steel with polished bercé surface. Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve, and tourbillon. Voutilainen's hand-wound Tourbillon 22 movement; 28 jewels, with grained and gilded finishing; Double-barrel with 72h power reserve; One-minute tourbillon running at 18,000 vibrations/hour; hairspring with Phillips terminal curve and Grossman internal curve. 20 pieces in platinum, 20 pieces in white gold, 20 pieces in rose gold, one piece in stainless steel. Price: CHF 275,000 for rose gold, CHF 278,000 for white gold or platinum.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Kari Voutilainen's 20th Anniversary Tourbillon Review","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"43dccbfc-0e1d-4481-8c5d-2472954afd12","container_id":13586,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/fc2f0109-a7b3-496d-a52e-35fba3e8838c/20240412_KariVoutilainen_002.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Kari Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary","created_at":"2024-07-12T16:00:20.328-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-12T16:00:20.328-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/fc2f0109-a7b3-496d-a52e-35fba3e8838c/20240412_KariVoutilainen_002.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-kari-voutilainens-20th-anniversary-tourbillon","full_title":"Hands-On: Kari Voutilainen's 20th Anniversary Tourbillon","tags":["kari-voutilainen","tourbillon","independent-watches","hands-on"]},{"id":13590,"slug":"introducing-timex-q-1975-engima","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Timex Brings Back The 'Mystery Dial' With The Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-24T09:00:25.473-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-15T17:00:17.649-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-24T09:01:23.881-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>One little dot can play a trick on the eye.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":34048,"public_token":"da2c3073dce8a958ccf47241f65c23af","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's something particularly cool about a post-Space Age design that taps into the futuristic imagination that grew into a design movement well into the 1970s. These designs are so out there, sometimes so unnecessary, that they are instantly recognizable anachronisms. Well, today, Timex is bringing one of those designs back with its new Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue, a watch that (in certain, perfect conditions) makes it look like the time indications are just floating on the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["90b1fccd-7080-4726-bc10-ab0230ac4c25"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a new $199 quartz (hence the \"Q\") watch with hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week, and date, all in a vintage-sized 37mm stainless steel case. The watch also comes with a stainless-steel bracelet and domed acrylic crystal for the retro feel. But the real \"trick\" here is a visual one. The dial is a dark navy blue, as are most of the hands, leaving white tips exposed on the hour and minute hand and a red dot on the seconds. Then, Timex has painted a blue dot on the underside of the crystal, matching the dial and hiding the center post. If you catch the watch in the right light (especially in the shadow), it should look like a \"mystery dial\" where the hands are just floating and moving without being attached to anything. The watch is available now and isn't a limited edition.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Mystery dials come in all shapes and sizes, and they're often pretty complicated. We <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/phillips-to-sell-two-rare-art-deco-cartier-clocks-at-upcoming-new-york-auction/" target=\"_blank\">recently covered</a> some rare Cartier mystery clocks that went up for sale at Phillips and got massive results. Clocks like this frequently hide the gearing in the base, which then turns two discs (at their edge) that fill the dial, giving the illusion that there's no movement. There are similar designs in the modern age, like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-masse-mysterieuse-is-close-up-magic/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Masse Mystérieuse</a>. What I didn't realize was that, back in 1975, Timex had figured out a much simpler way: a blue dot hiding the center post.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["183bbad8-928b-4cb6-b424-b5f1e323d40c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's fun and creative, but don't expect the same effect. At different angles, you'll be able to see more of the hands or the dial post. The same could be said for Patek's 5330G World Time date indication, which has a similar floating effect but still can be seen at certain angles. But here, it's just a fun reissue for an affordable price and it's great to see Timex doing a lot of different and fun things with the Q line.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Timex<br><strong>Model:</strong> Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 37mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> Unknown<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Stainless steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Navy blue<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Hours and minutes on the rehaut; \"floating\" hands<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Unknown<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 50m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet:</strong> Stainless steel bracelet</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ae935d5f-b9e8-4f4e-a16c-b790f5a5eb66"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Quartz<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, central seconds, day, and date</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $199<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Now<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>No</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://timex.com/pages/coming-soon?country=US\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The Hodinkee Shop is an authorized retailer of Timex. To see our offerings, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/timex-brand/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"<p>EMBARGO TO JULY 23 - No Specific Time Requested</p>","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"c0d6d73b-d550-4435-a65d-44df048d4aff","container_id":13590,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/38d8c662-d8fd-43a3-b36d-e5343913e5bd/Hero_TW2W59800QTimex1975EnigmaReissue-Beauty_2_RGB.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"timex engima ","created_at":"2024-07-15T17:00:17.759-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-24T08:27:40.918-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/38d8c662-d8fd-43a3-b36d-e5343913e5bd/Hero_TW2W59800QTimex1975EnigmaReissue-Beauty_2_RGB.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-timex-q-1975-engima","full_title":"Introducing: Timex Brings Back The 'Mystery Dial' With The Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue","tags":["timex","mystery-watch","introducing"]},{"id":13520,"slug":"in-depth-ap-remaster-02","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"Understanding – And Going Hands-On With – The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-22T15:00:05.731-04:00","created_at":"2024-06-28T15:57:03.543-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-22T15:01:07.256-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>It took four years to get a second [RE]Master watch from AP and the result has been divisive. But a watch like this doesn't come from nowhere. Mark and Tony unpack it all in this two-part story.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":18753,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At the tail end of May, Audemars Piguet released a watch that took people by surprise for a number of reasons. Many people, myself included, thought that AP's vintage-inspired [RE]Master collection was a one-and-done proposition. A limited edition chronograph made in 500 pieces, inspired by one of the brand's great vintage pieces, it came out right at the start of the pandemic in May 2020. I watched anxiously to see what else would come out of a collection that I saw as a potential third pillar to complement the Royal Oaks and Code 11.59 (which at the time had a pretty lukewarm reception). It seemed desperately needed and it just didn't seem to come.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d09c6c06-097f-4136-a5b9-885f8019491f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Earlier this year, Tony Traina <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-watches-that-arent-the-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">wrote about looking deeper at the AP catalog and how it reframed his view on the brand's vintage offerings</a>. Take a look at some of the brand's old gems in his Vintage Watches column.</p>","title":"Re-Discovering Vintage Audemars Piguet Watches That Aren't The Royal Oak","images":["781279f4-5d25-4d64-b0a0-5f1d5faf0955"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To be fair, production, development, marketing – everything wound down during the early months of the pandemic and took a while to get going. Four years later, we have the next watch in the collection, the [RE]Master02, and the watch they chose as inspiration was its own surprise. Among a myriad of other options at their disposal, AP went with a re-imagination of a shaped, very asymmetrical – dare I gamble on saying Brutalist – watch. Limited to 250 pieces and priced at $47,200, I expected a lot of pushback from the commentariat because of size (41mm by 9.1), burnout on \"shaped watches,\" its limited nature, or the cost. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I was pleasantly surprised to see the response was much more mixed. It sounds like the commercial reception has been the same. I've heard that AP is getting a lot of inquiries from people who don't collect vintage watches and maybe have never seen the watch that inspired the new [RE]Master. On the other hand, I know several people who passed on this watch. But I hadn't seen the watch in person, so I tried to reserve judgment. Now, I have thoughts.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b203721-012c-4f85-ab79-0bcdc41a55e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But I also wanted to give my colleague Tony Traina, a vintage lover extraordinaire with plenty of thoughts of his own, a chance to break down the watch and vintage AP in general and – not having seen it in person – tell us what he thought from afar. You might actually recognize the inspiration for the [RE]Master02 from a story Tony wrote earlier this year about looking at what AP offers vintage collectors that don't rhyme with \"Loyal Bloke.\" I figured that out of anyone, he might have thoughts about what the brand got right or where they missed the mark.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"[Re]Master02: Shaping Its History"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"author_id":428},"type":"Block::Author"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b27d2900-707d-4625-871c-4d4dc4868c81"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Experimentation with design and shapes, often connected with complications – but not always – has been a constant at AP,\" Sebastian Vivas, AP's Heritage and Museum Director, said <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-watches-that-arent-the-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">when we spoke in January</a>.</p>\n\n<p>While we were talking about vintage watches, it should've been obvious that Vivas wasn't talking only about the past of AP, but also its present.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3a4c4e12-1080-4f9e-a643-b26028faf18a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because the [Re]Master02 is really an experiment. While it's based on an asymmetrical vintage watch in AP's archives, almost everything else is different: size, material, finish, and movement. Experimentation was also the driving force behind the inspiration for the [Re]Master02, reference 5159BA, a watch so rare it doesn't even have a proper name.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After World War II, GIs came home with round wristwatches on their wrists, and every other shape was forgotten about while they went to college, bought houses in the suburbs, and had babies.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"But AP kept a rich creativity,\" Vivas said. Throughout the Brutalist architecture movement and the retro-futuristic Space Age, AP continued to explore shapes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2a6341c3-8908-458e-84c8-41507574a186"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Vivas mentioned that AP had recently studied its \"golden age\" of asymmetric watches, from 1959 through 1964, and found that it produced more than 30 different shapes just in this five-year period, most of them in less than 10 examples. AP experimented with rectangular, cushion-shaped, asymmetrical, and other shapes that defy the traditional polygonal naming conventions of the Euclidean geometry that tormented your high school years. The Brutalist, sharp lines of the '50s and '60s gave way to soft edges with the hope of the Space Age in the '70s. And it wasn't just case shapes, but components like crystals and dials, too. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of those asymmetric watches was the ref. 5159. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/pa_inv_302_ambi/" target=\"_blank\">According to AP</a>, just seven examples were produced and sold in 1960 and '61. The yellow gold example photographed here is now in AP's archives, originally sold to Elco Clocks in the U.K. in 1961. Its polished yellow gold case measures just 27.5mm. Next to the [Re]Master02, it looks like a Mini Cooper to the [Re]master's Cybertruck. This isn't to say one is better than the other: The Cybertruck has had four recalls and the Mini Cooper's defining moment, as far as I'm concerned, was 20 years ago in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0317740//" target=\"_blank\">a Mark Wahlberg heist film</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But these shape-shifting designs helped lay the groundwork for AP's most iconic watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Asymmetric, Brutalist design prepared the way for the Royal Oak,\" Vivas said. \"There's a clear link.\" It might not have been clear to designer Gerald Genta, but his eccentric and expressive sports watch had its roots in an entire generation of shapes. AP's experimentation with shapes dates back even further – look to its design in the '20s and '30s and you can find chronographs and calendars that are far from round.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["692df832-58bd-4f8c-97cd-aef9a9e29638"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In many ways, this history makes the modern [Re]Master collection a sensible way for AP to continue its experimentation with shapes. The [Re]Master01, introduced in 2020, explored a similar corner of AP's history – its early, pre-WWII chronographs. Similar to its asymmetric watches, this is an era before AP had serialized production, and all of its complicated watches were essentially unique. In the first half of the 20th century, AP only made 307 chronographs. Extrapolating out some numbers, I'd bet they made a similar number of asymmetric watches during the golden era that ended in the early '60s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like the [Re]Master01, the 02 is <i>not</i> a reissue or an homage of a vintage watch. While it evokes the ref. 5159 of the past, it's otherwise a contemporary watch. It uses the latest material innovation (sand gold), a thin automatic caliber (cal. 7129), and <i>that</i> size. Disagree if you'd like, but AP is certainly the most contemporary of watch brands – who else is putting <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/royal-oak-offshore-music-edition.html/" target=\"_blank\">music equalizers on its dials</a>? – so this <i>is</i> the approach.</p>\n\n<p>With that, let's get hands-on with the [Re]Master02.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Hands-On With The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"author_id":342},"type":"Block::Author"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few blind spots I'll readily admit come with writing about and handling sometimes dozens of different watches a month. Pricing is always a hard one to pin down because there's a massive part of \"value\" that can come down to personal taste. What makes one watch wear well while similar dimensions on another watch might not – that's another tough one to keep on top of because two similar-sized watches can wear differently for a number of reasons. Right now, I struggle to tell if we're in the middle of a shaped-watch renaissance or if the [RE]Master02 is an example of a good idea that came just a bit too late.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2ce0b3af-b9d0-4bc5-8a7c-ac7c94653daf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I am a big lover of Audemars Piguet for a lot of reasons – its history, its experience with complications, the fact that (regardless of how hard it might be to get an AP at retail) the brand feels a little more culturally accessible than the walled-off world of Patek – but no brand is without faults. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Unfortunately, the Code 11.59 launch was lackluster, but the collection has gotten stronger. While the Code collection is starting to pick up traction with some collectors, I still don't know if it's a watch I would pick over anything else at the price point. The Offshore also has a ton of solid offerings – some I like quite a bit – but I could almost certainly point to several Royal Oaks I'd rather have first. The Concept line is one of my favorites, and I'm lucky to get away with wearing one with my taller frame. But those last three collections, I think rightfully, get grouped together in people's minds as Royal Oaks. And if Royal Oaks are one thing, they are iconic, design-forward pieces. So when looking for a second watch to be the third leg supporting the brand's collection, why go for another brushed, Brutalist design, especially when the time has possibly passed?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79b0212c-52e1-4ecd-a1a1-6bdbfd893b94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Well, let's make the argument in favor of the decision. The [RE]Master02, at the very least, is an incredibly striking watch and an example of creativity that often feels lacking from major modern catalogs. The case measures 41mm wide (at the longest angle) by 9.7mm thick and is the star of the show, as it would be in almost any shaped watch. It's also made out of sand gold, Audemars Piguet's newest alloy that first appeared in a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-sand-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon earlier this year</a>. As I explained in that story, it's a material that works best in cases like this with hard angles that will react to light differently, all at the same time. That allows the case to shift from pinkish hues to white, as the material will want to do. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's the kind of combination of materials science and design acumen that Audemars Piguet is known for, even if it does draw from history. The entire case, save for the faceted edges on the caseback, is either horizontally or vertically brushed. I have a feeling that that kind of texture just further accentuates the color shift of sand gold and its definitely more modern than the polished case on the vintage example.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ba2833c5-b53a-4888-8e59-d211a58ba750"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The shape of the crystal follows the facet of the case. The hard lines intersect thoughtfully, and if you look at the lugs, you can imagine a world in where that half millimeter of width on each side could have been thrown out to make the lug width just one millimeter wider and the lugs easier to shape. But AP has accentuated the design by leaving that little hanging edge next to the strap.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0182803f-5810-47cd-a64d-1df2a638b25b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even the buckle feels like it mirrors the case shape, even if it's the same as the buckle on the Code 11.59. The strap is a nice, soft, matte alligator that matches the dial color – which is another place AP got a lot of the details just right.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b69895d-b233-4273-8081-d95fcbde44de"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The burst of radial lines from the center post acting as hour markers carries over from the vintage models, acting as hour markers and rendered in sand gold to match the hands and the logo. But that radial pattern continues to the \"Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50\" toned dial (taken from the original Royal Oak dial color). Up close, the texture almost looks like wood marquetry. Another thoughtful decision from Audemars Piguet was to line the logo up such that, when viewed from above, the crystal hits the break between the two words.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aa5f84dd-05e6-4f0a-b70d-c0646ad43e31"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last little touch I barely noticed, but it's worth pointing out. If you look closely at the top, bottom, and left side of the dial, the case has been shaped slightly under the bezel so that the minute hand can easily make a full turn while being long enough that it makes practical sense. All this comes together in a package that feels either very timely for the growing demand for shaped watches, or is slightly overdue. It's hard to tell if a moment has passed, so I think this [RE]Master02 will be the ultimate litmus test for whether the Renaissance is over or has just begun.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8bd9a314-c4c9-4800-a247-0382fc158546"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If there's one big criticism you could levy on the [RE]Master02, it is the size of the watch. It's not so much that it's a thick watch. A lot of the thickness is just a necessary part of the very angular shape. The movement inside – the self-winding Calibre 7129 – is the same as in the 16202 \"Jumbo\" Ultra-thin Royal Oak and only 2.8mm thick, so in theory the watch could be thinner, but then it just wouldn't be the same thing anymore. The rotor is also made in sand gold, which is a nice touch, but raises the question: could (or should) this watch have been a hand-wound movement?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f600cfb9-3622-43b5-84c0-eaeb797be0c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original watch was significantly smaller, and while I didn't measure the thickness – I wasn't expecting to see the original so I didn't bring calipers – it was a relatively dainty watch with a hand-wound caliber inside. But I don't really think that would have made much difference.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9d79dd54-4959-4911-853d-f8eb2462bd9c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not alone in my assessment that the watch is probably too big. I've heard from a few friends who got to try the [RE]Master02 in person, and they all (with no exception) felt the same way. That's not to say they didn't agree that the design was great – I've had friends who collect vintage watches that loved the <i>idea</i> of the [RE]Master02 – but it's hard not to feel that this execution is a bit unwieldy.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The measurements on paper don't seem that large, but the case is very flat and has to be strapped so tight that it's immobile on the flattest spot on the top of your wrist. With other watches, a little looseness or play isn't always bad if the watch rotates back and forth or up and down on your wrist. The design of this watch doesn't accommodate that. It also doesn't allow the watch to move anywhere below the wrist bone if you wear it on your left wrist. The case would dig into your hand if you bent it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["64ee4107-8caf-4ae3-9594-ddf42c57983b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That said, if you've got a smaller wrist, you're probably better off with the vintage piece below – except for the fact that only seven were ever made, and this example belongs to AP. You also don't get all the thoughtful design decisions that bring this watch into the 21st century.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["360da11c-17f6-4706-9610-df8eec0e3bc3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch didn't wear uncomfortably or bother me on the wrist, but it felt pretty apparent that the watch would likely have been successful somewhere between the vintage sizing and the new – maybe around 37mm. As much as I love vintage watches, there's no world in which the vintage model – measuring 27.5mm – would be appropriately sized for me. But the new watch? I'm not convinced, either.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c8f271f6-8da3-4d4b-b595-114318698e4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is what makes vintage-inspired reissues such a tough nut. There's so much wrapped up in the things that make vintage watches great – nostalgia, size, design – and a lot of that is so hard to create. With too light a touch, the watch is an homage. If a redesign is too heavy, the result can get away from you. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With all that said, I don't think I think AP will have a hard time finding clients for this piece, even if it's not the same ones that bought the [RE]Master01. That's actually probably the greatest success here: how AP uses a watch like this to keep broadening its audience. With the demand for vintage watches slowly getting bigger every day, I don't think it will be long before we see a [RE]Master02 on the wrist of someone like Tyler the Creator or another celebrity who appreciates both thoughtful design and vintage aesthetics. Then the [RE]Master02 will take on a life of its own and we'll look back to see how silly my criticisms look in hindsight.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02, ref. 15240SG. 41mm diameter by 9.7mm thick sand gold case, with 30m water resistance. Segmented \"Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50\" dial with linear satin finishing and sand gold lines. Sand gold hands without lume. Hours and minutes. Caliber 7129 automatic movement with 52 hours of power reserve, running at 28,800 vibrations/hour. Alligator leather strap in contrasting shades of blue with matte finishing and 18-carat sand gold pin buckle. Limited to 250 pieces. Price: $47,200.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"a6570d20-0eef-4ad8-9acc-258e49548180","container_id":13520,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c087df63-018b-40a8-b25f-22bd311c68cf/20240628_APReMaster02_081.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02","created_at":"2024-06-28T15:57:03.573-04:00","updated_at":"2024-06-28T15:57:03.573-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c087df63-018b-40a8-b25f-22bd311c68cf/20240628_APReMaster02_081.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-ap-remaster-02","full_title":"In-Depth: Understanding – And Going Hands-On With – The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02","tags":["audemars-piguet","in-depth","hands-on","vintage-watches","remaster"]},{"id":13599,"slug":"introducing-g-shock-nasa-five","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"G-Shock Debuts The Fifth NASA-Themed Limited Edition","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-07-19T13:00:06.288-04:00","created_at":"2024-07-18T18:06:39.918-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-19T13:01:06.340-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>G-Shock ditches the space suit vibe with a new black model inspired by NASA.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":51783,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While a certain Swiss brand might be most closely associated with space exploration, that hasn't stopped G-Shock from using NASA as the inspiration for not one, not two, but now five releases, and if the last few were a bit too bold and loud for you, they've got you covered. The new watch, reference GW6900NASA241, draws as much from Casio's iconic calculators as it does NASA inspiration. After all, you need a lot of math to safely get to space and back.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fa52ee81-cdd2-4cbc-9fd9-97329c543075"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The base for the watch is the GW6900, the brand's best-selling case design, with a semi-round case 53.2 × 50 × 17.7 mm resin case (and band) in black. The text around the dial features red, yellow, and blue accents, reminiscent of the buttons on the classic calculators. This is a solar-powered watch with the brand's multi-band 6 atomic timekeeping and 200m water resistance. There's also the world time, a 1/100-sec stopwatch, four alarms, and more. But the backlight is (as is often the case) the best Easter egg.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3d2dc56-60c4-42a3-a096-dd19a06559ae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you press the button for the backlight, you'll see the word \"Gravity\" and the equation for gravity itself: F = (m₁m₂)/R². The back of the shock-resistant case also has an engraving of the formula for the force of impact. The watch is so popular that this limited edition (with numbers not shared) is offered via a lottery-style drawing open until July 22. You can enter by visiting the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio.com/us/watches/gshock/product.GW-6900NASA24-1//" target=\"_blank\">website for the watch</a> and following the instructions for pre-authorization and entry. Only winners will be charged the $170 for the watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This a fun new take on a NASA release that's become quite popular, if sometimes repetitive, with the often white color choice. Actually, the coolest other option – in my opinion, of course – was an orange limited edition from 2022. This one at least shakes things up. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["174049c0-f35e-4250-800a-87c5ae25c3b5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>People will either love the subtlety of this new release or be quickly over it. There are plenty of other black G-Shocks on the market if that's all you're going for, so don't feel bad if you don't win the draw to buy one. But if you're a space, science, or math nerd, there are definitely worse ways to spend $170, so it's worth throwing your hat in the ring. Plus, if you've got a physics test coming up, you can at least use the watch to cheat on two equations you should know.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> G-Shock<br><strong>Model:</strong> GW6900NASA241</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 53.2 × 50mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 17.7 mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Resin<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Black<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Digital display<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Electro-luminescent backlight<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet:</strong> Resin band</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["284e5e52-5cb6-49d5-b01b-e41c66bb516d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Digital<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, date, worldtime, 1/100th second chronograph, alarms, atomic multi-band timekeeping<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> Nine months on rechargeable battery (operation period with normal use without exposure to light after charge);<br>26 months on rechargeable battery (operation period when stored in total darkness with the power save function on after full charge)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $170<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Lottery-style drawing via <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio.com/us/watches/gshock/product.GW-6900NASA24-1//" target=\"_blank\">G-Shock's website</a> until July 22<br><strong>Limited Edition:</strong> Yes, but total number not given</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio.com/us/watches/gshock/product.GW-6900NASA24-1//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of G-Shock, and you can find these watches now in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/g-shock/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Shop</a>. For more information, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://gshock.casio.com/us/products/type/full-metal/gmw-b5000d-2_gm-b2100ad-2//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"7598b19b-f741-4c87-b45d-ecfd750a86eb","container_id":13599,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/505bbad4-3c97-44be-97c0-71febc057f3e/Hero_NASA_2024.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"G-Shock NASA","created_at":"2024-07-18T18:06:40.079-04:00","updated_at":"2024-07-18T18:06:40.079-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/505bbad4-3c97-44be-97c0-71febc057f3e/Hero_NASA_2024.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-g-shock-nasa-five","full_title":"Introducing: G-Shock Debuts The Fifth NASA-Themed Limited Edition","tags":["nasa","casio","g-shock"]}]}">